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Leslie 122 problem?????

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Jenny Hack

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Dec 19, 2000, 12:14:48 PM12/19/00
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I have a B3 with a Leslie 122. The problem I have is it keeps running on
high speed. I downloaded the skematic from the net and was wondering if it
could be relay is this a usual problem. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

Bill Hack


ken.churchill

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Dec 19, 2000, 2:50:14 PM12/19/00
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This does happen with the 122. I have found the cure is
to utilise the speed control valve type Ecc83.( Tube to you guys )
You will find under the chassis that one half of the valve is not used.
Therefore, if you wire across the double triode in parallel it will
work a treat.
Join pin 1 to pin 6
Join pin 2 to pin 7
Join pin 3 to pin 8
Also some new fresh resistors will aid the situation
Hope this helps

Ken Churchill ( Engineer South Wales, UK )

Larry W4CSC

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Dec 19, 2000, 3:23:20 PM12/19/00
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Put the Leslie speed switch in SLOW and start the organ while
listening to the Leslie amp chassis as it warms up. Normal will be
for the Leslie to start in fast mode, then when the control tube warms
up, you'll hear a definate "click" when the relay closes. If you hear
the click and it STILL runs fast, either the relay contacts are stuck
in "fast" or some idiot has bypassed the relay so it always runs fast.

It could also be the keying tube. There are two small tubes next to
the volume control on the Leslie 122. The one closest to the volume
control is the audio preamp. The other tube is the keying tube for
the motor speed control relay. The console puts 110VDC on the same
two wires that the 600 ohm balanced audio uses. The audio is coupled
off by two capacitors to the audio preamps in the leslie. The pins
where this DC is present is pins 1 and 6....the two biggest pins with
the dot in between them (usually on top of the connector in the amp).
You'll need a voltmeter to check the voltage to see if the switch in
the console is turning this voltage on and off. Hook the black meter
probe to any chassis ground in the back of the console. Touch the red
probe to either pin 1 or 6 in the plug you've unplugged from the
Leslie's amp with the voltmeter set to DC on the scale above 110VDC.
Switch the leslie control switch and see if it turns on and off.
(Organ must be started and running, of course.)

Now that we've determined some meat hooked player hasn't broken the
Leslie speed switch to bits, because we can switch the DC to the
Leslie, Something is keeping us from switching the motor power sockets
on the amp.....the tube, the relay, a limiting fuse resistor between
the +340VDC power supply. Simple things first.....swap the tube with
another one. You can rob one from the console to try it if you don't
have a spare. I can't remember whether it's a 12AX7 or 12AU7, it'll
be on the tube....the small tube FARTHEST from the volume control. If
that STILL doesn't work, someone is going to have to pull the amp
out.....turn everything off and unplug the Leslie......

Remove the one holddown screw from the amp and slide it out of the
speaker cabinet. Unplug the power amp tubes and big regulator tube
which may get broken when we flip it upside down. There is a
schematic diagram stuck to the side of the amp chassis, one of the
smartest things Leslie ever did.

Flip the dead amp upside down onto its transformers. You'll see a
relay near that relay tube. There will be a wire going from the tube
to one of the relay COIL terminals. From the other coil terminal,
you'll find a ceramic square-looking resistor going to the power
supply. Measure the resistance of this resistor and see if it's close
to the resistance stamped on the resistor. It burns open if the coil
shorts to ground. If it's burned open, replace the resistor and the
relay which will solve the problem. Measure the resistance of the
coil from coil terminal to coil terminal. It should be something less
than a few hundred ohms....but not open (infinity).

If these components test ok, try moving the movable armature of the
relay and looking for contacts welded together, which is what happens
if a motor winding shorts out. A little arcing spots on the relay
contacts is normal. If the armature won't move smoothly, replace the
relay The contacts of the moving arm switch between up and down
contacts fixed that hook to the AC power sockets for fast and slow
motors.

I don't want ANY non-electronic technician inside this chassis or
poking around the running plugs AT ALL. Pins 3 and 4 of the 6-pin
Leslie plug has straight 115VAC power line voltage on it without a
fuse! Luckily, they are on the opposite side of the plug from the BIG
pins with the 110VDC control voltage and balanced audio on them. The
110VDC control voltage WILL BITE YOU HARD! High voltage DC is also on
those old "half moon" control boxes with the sideways swinging
telephone switches on them. NEVER PUT YOUR FINGER UP INSIDE THE
BAKELITE BOX! Those old boxes were killers! Inside the power amp
chassis is near 400 VDC with BIG current rectifiers, more than enough
to kill any human that comes in contact with it. If you don't know
what you're doing....CALL FOR A TECHNICIAN. Nothing Hammond ever made
is worth YOUR LIFE. Tube amps can be real killers!

There, I feel better....It's not my fault if someone gets ZAPPED!

larry
Keyboard Service
Charleston, SC
servicing coastal SC only
843-696-5397

Lord Valve

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Dec 20, 2000, 3:13:43 AM12/20/00
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Before you do all the stuff below, check the .1uF/600V
capacitor attached to the fast motor socket. These
short out all the time. If yours is shorted, your fast
motors will run constantly no matter what condition
all the other stuff is in.
Lord Valve

Barry

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Dec 21, 2000, 2:54:02 PM12/21/00
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I have had a dysfunctional relay for quite some time. Oddly it worked fine in the
winter and malfunctioned in the summer. I have Central air and heat but the room
the organ is in is cooler in the winter. I have had service for this but never
was fixed( changed the big capacitor and on another time relay "adjusted". Many
would say you need a new relay as I have seen many times at Hamtech. The
malfunction was it did not want to go in Chorale but if you quickly flipped from
Chorale to Tremolo and back it would go into Chorale. (Could this be collapsing
voltage surge?) Many seem to have this problem on the list. At any rate I pulled
the amp and found the 12k 2 watt resistor ( goes to relay coil and to OC3 ) to be
at 20k and cooling it brought it to 18k--"summer - winter". I replaced it with a
$1.25 resistor and voila works perfectly with a nice loud click that a lot of you
hate. But I like all of the Hammond and Leslie mechanical sounds. Who really
wants a silent Hammond? Anyway before you scrap the relay check those
resistors. Barry

Larry W4CSC

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Dec 21, 2000, 7:57:48 PM12/21/00
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The original 122 had a fairly nice Potter-Brumfield relay in it that
had a fairly good contact you could clean. After a time, they would
get pitted and become intermittent. Unplug the unit, take out the ONE
screw holding the amp in place after unplugging all the motor plugs
and the speaker plug. Take out the power tubes so you don't crush
them when you flip it upside down to get at the relay. File the relay
contacts back to shiny and flat with a small file or contact
burnishing tool (Radio shack has burnishing tools). Reinstall and
your problem is solved.....

Suzuki got cheap with new Leslies in more ways than one. The new
Leslies have an electronic motor speed control screwed into the wood
inside the bass speaker enclosure. You need an electronic technician
if lightning hits the neighborhood.

The late model Leslie 122's just before they dumped the twin motor
drives, Suzuki got cheap. They got rid of the repairable PB relay
noted above and put in a little circuit card and an enclosed relay
stuck to it. The relay is too small for all the arcing caused by the
induction motors kicking and failed often, hence they gave up and went
to the electronic motor speed controls.

If you have the optically-regulated newer Leslie drive motors, KEEP
THEM OILED A LOT! I got units I don't think were oiled at the factory
because the bearings failed in BOTH motors in about a year! These
motors, of course, are out of warranty so you get to pay for the
BETTER, REPLACEMENT motors which have BALL BEARINGS the motors should
have had with this BELT LOAD pulling SIDEWAYS on them in the first
place! The sleeve bearing motors with the optical speed controls on
them SUCK BIGTIME! The sideload on the motor bearings of the belts
pulling on them is wearing out the bearings really bad!

larry
Keyboard Service
Charleston, SC
servicing coastal SC only
843-696-5397

NO SPAMMERS I DON'T WANT YOU TO CALL TRYING TO SELL ME BUSINESS CRAP
OR TRYING TO SLAM MY LONG DISTANCE SERVICE! Since I posted my phone
number I've gotten 23 calls from long distance companies!
Idiots...it's a CELLULAR PHONE!!


On Thu, 21 Dec 2000 13:54:02 -0600, Barry <ABar...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

ronnco...@gmail.com

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Oct 10, 2016, 9:53:30 AM10/10/16
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I have a 122 and I have replaced the fast slow switch twice but still it will not go from slow to fast when I hit my button what the heck is that about

ronnco...@gmail.com

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Oct 10, 2016, 9:55:03 AM10/10/16
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I have a 122 and my switch does not seem to work my Leslie will not go into fast speed after the warm-up self test I don't know what to do
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