Replacing old 6v headlight bulb w/modern brighter bulb
PeteJC
motorcycle parts shop but I’d also like your opinions. I’d like to
replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb. Can I do this without
having to revamp anything on the bike? Old bulb out and new bulb in
and an instantly better headlight?
Thanks!
--
Posted at author's request, using moderated http://www.MotorcycleForumz.com interface
Thread archive: http://www.MotorcycleForumz.com/Replacing-6v-headlight-bulb-modern-brighter-bulb-ftopict165352.html
Rayvan
> I’m going to ask at my trusty non dealer affiliated neighborhood
> motorcycle parts shop but I’d also like your opinions. I’d like to
> replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
> XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb. Can I do this without
> having to revamp anything on the bike? Old bulb out and new bulb in
> and an instantly better headlight?
I don't think it'll help much as the silver refector is probably
getting dull.
Get rid of that selenium rectifier and replace it with a solid state
one. Helped on my CT90 quite a bit.
I got mine from this guy...
http://hondarectifiers.com/
--
Rayvan
Who Me?
"PeteJC" <no...@000.com> wrote
> I'm going to ask at my trusty non dealer affiliated neighborhood
> motorcycle parts shop but I'd also like your opinions. I'd like to
> replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
> XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb.
Well, 6V and modern bulb don't quite go together but.........
You might do better going to a major auto parts outlet armed with the number
off the original bulb.
They should have a cross-reference book with specs. Look for something with
the same base but higher cp or lumens. As long as you stay with 6V, you
shouldn't need to change anything else.
Good luck. I think you're gonna need it.
PS Might try GE or Sylvania or Chicago Miniature ONLINE for cross-ref
listings.
David T. Ashley
news:7805696_973ac3336746...@motorcycleforumz.com...
> I'm going to ask at my trusty non dealer affiliated neighborhood
> motorcycle parts shop but I'd also like your opinions. I'd like to
> replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
> XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb. Can I do this without
> having to revamp anything on the bike? Old bulb out and new bulb in
> and an instantly better headlight?
For what it is worth, I looked around for a DC:DC converter that would give
you 12V from the 6 at about 10A output. Didn't find one (they all have
higher minimum input voltages).
Unless I missed an obvious product, looks like you're stuck with a 6V bulb.
Converting from 6V to 12V DC requires a device a bit more complicated than a
transformer.
Timberwoof
<2fb77281-bb72-4d2c...@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com>,
Rayvan <rvann...@cachevision.com> wrote:
> On Jun 5, 9:22 am, PeteJC <n...@000.com> wrote:
> > Iąm going to ask at my trusty non dealer affiliated neighborhood
> > motorcycle parts shop but Iąd also like your opinions. Iąd like to
> > replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
> > XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb. Can I do this without
> > having to revamp anything on the bike? Old bulb out and new bulb in
> > and an instantly better headlight?
>
> I don't think it'll help much as the silver refector is probably
> getting dull.
> Get rid of that selenium rectifier and replace it with a solid state
> one. Helped on my CT90 quite a bit.
> I got mine from this guy...
> http://hondarectifiers.com/
While you're at it, give all the connections along the way to the
headlight a good clean. At 6V, each wire has to pass twice as much
current for the same power as at 12V, and cruddy connections will hinder
that.
It would be worthwhile to search for halogen replacement bulbs, too.
--
Timberwoof <me at timberwoof dot com>
faq: http://www.timberwoof.com/motorcycle/faq.shtml
Ten Steps to Fascism: http://www.guardian.co.uk/usa/story/0,,2064157,00.html
David T. Ashley
news:timberwoof.spam-06...@nnrp-virt.nntp.sonic.net...
> In article
> <2fb77281-bb72-4d2c...@u6g2000prc.googlegroups.com>,
> Rayvan <rvann...@cachevision.com> wrote:
>
>> On Jun 5, 9:22 am, PeteJC <n...@000.com> wrote:
>> > Iąm going to ask at my trusty non dealer affiliated neighborhood
>> > motorcycle parts shop but Iąd also like your opinions. Iąd like to
>> > replace the old fashioned dull bulb in the headlight of my 1974 Honda
>> > XL175 with a 6 volt brighter modern bulb. Can I do this without
>> > having to revamp anything on the bike? Old bulb out and new bulb in
>> > and an instantly better headlight?
>>
>> I don't think it'll help much as the silver refector is probably
>> getting dull.
>> Get rid of that selenium rectifier and replace it with a solid state
>> one. Helped on my CT90 quite a bit.
>> I got mine from this guy...
>> http://hondarectifiers.com/
>
> While you're at it, give all the connections along the way to the
> headlight a good clean. At 6V, each wire has to pass twice as much
> current for the same power as at 12V, and cruddy connections will hinder
> that.
>
> It would be worthwhile to search for halogen replacement bulbs, too.
Speaking of that, weren't cars supposed to go to 48-volt electrical systems
sometime soon (so save copper and expense)?
Has that happened?
How about bikes?
Seems like going 24-volt for motorcycles couldn't hurt.
Timberwoof
There is a thing in many new cars and BMW motorcycles, the CanBus, which
a serial protocol that various electronic bits and pieces can use to
talk to one another. So the thing about how in BMW cars, turning on the
windshield wipers makes the brakes apply very lightly, just enough to
dry them, can be easily implemented. Unfortunately, things like
headlight modulators, taillight modulators, and LED taillights screw
with the broken-bulb detectors. And the CanBus has had teething problems
in BMW "hexheads".
But you still need a way to power all those gizmos...
Rob Kleinschmidt
> Unless I missed an obvious product, looks like you're stuck with a 6V bulb.
>
> Converting from 6V to 12V DC requires a device a bit more complicated than a
> transformer.
Seems like you could almost do the whole electric
system with a device no more complicated than a
transformer if the bike was powered by an alternator.
Put a transformer between the alternator and the
rest of the bike and swap out 6 volt for 12 volt
horn and bulbs.
Lower amps at 12 volt so the wiring should carry
it. How you'd work the regulator I'm not so sure.
Probably not such a great idea and likely to let
all the smoke out but intriguing nonetheless.
Timberwoof
<d67d7cba-8f50-44e2...@d19g2000prm.googlegroups.com>,
Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsc...@aol.com> wrote:
> On Jun 5, 5:28 pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
>
> > Unless I missed an obvious product, looks like you're stuck with a 6V bulb.
> >
> > Converting from 6V to 12V DC requires a device a bit more complicated than a
> > transformer.
>
> Seems like you could almost do the whole electric
> system with a device no more complicated than a
> transformer if the bike was powered by an alternator.
>
> Put a transformer between the alternator and the
> rest of the bike and swap out 6 volt for 12 volt
> horn and bulbs.
The only problem is that the alternator is probably three-phase; this
makes finding the right transformer tricky. An alternative would be to
rewind the alternator with wire half the cross-section but twice as many
windings ... and then put in a new rectifier and voltage regulator.
> Lower amps at 12 volt so the wiring should carry
> it. How you'd work the regulator I'm not so sure.
>
> Probably not such a great idea and likely to let
> all the smoke out but intriguing nonetheless.
--
David T. Ashley
> There is a thing in many new cars and BMW motorcycles, the CanBus, which
> a serial protocol that various electronic bits and pieces can use to
> talk to one another. So the thing about how in BMW cars, turning on the
> windshield wipers makes the brakes apply very lightly, just enough to
> dry them, can be easily implemented. Unfortunately, things like
> headlight modulators, taillight modulators, and LED taillights screw
> with the broken-bulb detectors. And the CanBus has had teething problems
> in BMW "hexheads".
>
> But you still need a way to power all those gizmos...
The power is the point.
I used to work on luxury cars, and I presently do work with CAN.
A few points ...
As of several years ago, many vehicles were approaching a 2kW electrical
system (maybe they're already there). The issue with higher voltage is that
one can use less copper and transmit the same power because the wire sizing
is related to the current rather than the voltage. The upper limit on the
voltage is:
a)Insulation breakdown.
b)Human safety.
(a) isn't a concern at all with modern insulations. (b) I think led to the
adoption of 48V as the standard. It was as high as they could go without
endangering the people who service the vehicles, both professionally and
recreationally.
As far as CAN ...
CAN (and vehicle networks in general have led to two trends).
First, when all the electronics can talk to each other, you can have
features that you couldn't have otherwise, or at least couldn't have without
a lot of extra wire.
Second, the tendency is towards "zonal" electronics. If the vehicle horn is
closer to the engine controller than the instrument cluster, it makes sense
to wire it to the engine controller. Driver presses the horn switch, is
sensed by instrument cluster, message is transmitted via CAN to the engine
controller, horn relay is closed, etc.
Some of the older luxury cars are good example. Due to the complexity of
power windows, there were some wiring harnesses going into doors where there
were about 50 conductors. CAN can get it down to 4 (power, ground, and two
network wires). The fact that the power windows are all controllable from
the driver's door can be done via network messages.
Timberwoof
"David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
> "Timberwoof" <timberw...@infernosoft.com> wrote in message
> news:timberwoof.spam-33...@nnrp-virt.nntp.sonic.net...
> > There is a thing in many new cars and BMW motorcycles, the CanBus, which
> > a serial protocol that various electronic bits and pieces can use to
> > talk to one another. So the thing about how in BMW cars, turning on the
> > windshield wipers makes the brakes apply very lightly, just enough to
> > dry them, can be easily implemented. Unfortunately, things like
> > headlight modulators, taillight modulators, and LED taillights screw
> > with the broken-bulb detectors. And the CanBus has had teething problems
> > in BMW "hexheads".
> >
> > But you still need a way to power all those gizmos...
>
> The power is the point.
>
> I used to work on luxury cars, and I presently do work with CAN.
>
> A few points ...
>
> As of several years ago, many vehicles were approaching a 2kW electrical
> system (maybe they're already there).
Holy shit!
Otoh, I can understand that. My BMW has a 750 W alternator to run the
ABS, extra lights, heated vests, and so forth.
You explained it better than I did. Thanks. :-)
David T. Ashley
news:d67d7cba-8f50-44e2...@d19g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 5, 5:28 pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
> Unless I missed an obvious product, looks like you're stuck with a 6V
> bulb.
>
> Converting from 6V to 12V DC requires a device a bit more complicated than
> a
> transformer.
>Seems like you could almost do the whole electric
>system with a device no more complicated than a
>transformer if the bike was powered by an alternator.
>
>Put a transformer between the alternator and the
>rest of the bike and swap out 6 volt for 12 volt
>horn and bulbs.
I think the ease of stepping up and stepping down voltages with a
transformer was one of the reasons that AC rather than DC was chosen for the
power grid. This decision must be 100 years old now.
David T. Ashley
> In article
> <d67d7cba-8f50-44e2...@d19g2000prm.googlegroups.com>,
> Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsc...@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> On Jun 5, 5:28 pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Unless I missed an obvious product, looks like you're stuck with a 6V
>> > bulb.
>> >
>> > Converting from 6V to 12V DC requires a device a bit more complicated
>> > than a
>> > transformer.
>>
>> Seems like you could almost do the whole electric
>> system with a device no more complicated than a
>> transformer if the bike was powered by an alternator.
>>
>> Put a transformer between the alternator and the
>> rest of the bike and swap out 6 volt for 12 volt
>> horn and bulbs.
>
> The only problem is that the alternator is probably three-phase; this
> makes finding the right transformer tricky. An alternative would be to
> rewind the alternator with wire half the cross-section but twice as many
> windings ... and then put in a new rectifier and voltage regulator.
It has been many years since I studied 3-phase power, but I think you may be
able to make a competent 3-phase transformer using three single-phase
transformers where you connect the inputs in the obvious way (A/B, B/C, and
C/A), then connect one wire of each of the outputs together and use the
other 3 wires.
That is just a hunch. I think that will give you 3-phase power at a
different voltage.
However, I don't know how you'd rectify the voltage. With single-phase
power, a full-bridge rectifier and a capacitor will do it -- not sure what
to do with 3-phase.
David T. Ashley
The other element of the equation that makes the "zonal" approach attractive
is that microcontroller-based modules (i.e. electronic black boxes) have
really come down in price relative to wire harnesses. So, if you can do
away with 46 of the wires going into the driver's door and use an electronic
box in the driver's door, this decision only makes sense if that electronic
box is cheap enough.
If the electronic boxes are expensive enough, it is still cheaper to have 50
wires going into the driver's door ...
Timberwoof
Same way as before: the three coils of the alternator are either in a Y
with the center being ground or in a delta. Now consider the diode
bridge for an ordinary one-phase center-tapped transformer: basically
each outer end of the transformer has two diodes, one this way and one
that way. So you add two more diodes for the third leg of the Y. If it's
a delta, then it works the same way, only there's no "center tap".
Timberwoof
... and it becomes a question of a massively parallel "computer" with
dead-stupid 1-bit switching components and one data line for every bit
(a fancy way of saying old-school wiring harness), or a multi-bit
computer with 1-bit serial i/o and each device with its own i/o device
to talk to the data bus.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> I think the ease of stepping up and stepping down voltages with a
> transformer was one of the reasons that AC rather than DC was chosen for the
> power grid. This decision must be 100 years old now.
It was. Edison vs. Tesla/Westinghouse. Edison
favored D.C. Power delivered from Niagara Falls
to Buffalo for the Pan American exposition ~1900.