Main fuse on 81 XS650- 20a or 30a difference?
Frank Derrick
bike)and it gets hot to the touch when I turn the bike on. Is this
normal?
Also, I noticed that the XS650 wiring diagram has a 20amp fuse labeled
for main. Does it matter that much? I don't want to blow something
out.
Thanks,
Frank Derrick
East Bangor, PA
Jim & Debb Warman
overly hot to the touch. The 30 amp fuse (which allows 50% more current
through the circuit it is protecting) could be masking a problem that could
get real spendy if it hasn't already.
Since this fuse is between the battery and the entire electrical system, I
would consider checking the output of the charging system. When the bike is
running, very little current should be passing through this fuse. You might
also check the condition of the connections. Even a little corrosion will
cause a voltage drop and it is this voltage drop that can cause heating.
To check your charging rate, start the bike and pull the main fuse. Check
the charging system voltage between the bike side (not the battery side) of
the fuse connector and ground (you can connect to the battery ground
connection for this). Voltmeter should read 14.5 - 15 VDC at 2500 rpm.
Jim Warman
mech...@agt.net
Frank Derrick <fder...@ptd.net> wrote in message
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Frank Derrick
Would a faulty voltage regulator/rectifier contribute to this. When I
bought the bike, the regulator was diconnected. I attached it, and the
last time I rode, I realized that the battery did not charge, and the
battery looks new. I sent for the Clymer manuel. I hope that will
help.
Frank
Jim & Debb Warman
that battery needs constant charging or not. The way the bike is wired, the
lights, ignition, etc. should all be supplied by the alternator with very
little (if any) current actually passing through the main fuse. My '79 has a
mechanical regulator and needed the points cleaned - obtain some crocus
cloth (this is very, very fine stuff) and drag it through the points a time
or three. Crocus cloth is very easy to rip into strips thin enough to get
into the points - remember to do both sides and don't bend anything - this
will change the charging voltage.
While you're going through the charging system, you might as well take a
peek at the brushes under the left side cover. Anything under 1/4" is
getting pretty skimpy. Our local Yammy guy (the one who spends every winter
in the Bahamas) only wants $26 EACH in coin of the Canajun realm.
xs650parts.com can supply brushes that you solder on to your own tabs for
$16US the pair - take care that you don't let too much solder wick into the
brush lead since it will get harder than a wedding wienie and wont allow the
brush to remain planted on the commutator.
I have my regulator set a touch high since most of my driving is in town at
low rpm. The bike starts on the starter every time (something the XS650
isn't well noted for) and the battery level is staying pretty good - haven't
added any distilled water since the change (a little over 3000 km). Now if I
could just get those vacuum fuel shuts to work this good.....
I got the Clymer when I bought my ol' pot and it looks like it pretty well
covers everything.
Jim Warman
mech...@agt.net
Frank Derrick <fder...@ptd.net> wrote in message
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Jeff Gervais
"Jim & Debb Warman" <mech...@agt.net> wrote in message
news:F8o87.11675$uM6.1...@news1.telusplanet.net...
I have a 83 xs400. The main was running really hot. The problem was the
corroded copper fuse holder.
The contact with the fuse was so bad that it created a hot spot between the
conductors.
I tried to clean them, but the connection was still bad.
I used a generic 4x fuse block that I picked up a the hardware store
(Canadian Tire).
I cut out the old connectors from the Yamaha fuse box, and installed the
new. The cover still
fits on the old box over the new connectors.
No more hot fuses, and as a bonus the headlamp is brighter too.