Tip from other place
BryanUT
posting this pic of me a Miller Motorsports park:
Nice man. I'll be at miller in may for SBK, OOOO-WEEE!
CCTL, Cam chain tensioner lifter, yes, same thing. The OE ones are
'automatic' they work via spring, a shitty spring which wares out long
before it should. APE manual tensioners are preferred because they
can't 'fail'. If an auto tensioner lets go it can absolutely destroy a
motor. I'm fixing a 600rr at the moment with the very problem, new
cams, chain blades... big money.
R/R is your regulator/rectifier. It's one of three major components in
you bike's charging system (alternator and battery being the others)
It's job is to regulate the relatively high voltage from the
alternator down so the battery can take it, and rectifies the current
from AC to DC. It's just a diode loop with an in and out. They are
very prone to failure on all motorcycles but the CBR's seam to have
especially bad ones. This is a component that is better to be replaced
with a third party product such as Rick's electronics. Much cheaper
than OEM and honestly more reliable.
With 26K miles on the bike I would personally take off the tail
fairing and inspect the back side of the R/R looking for bulging wires
or hot spots, and check the stator (alternator) wires from the R/R
(three yellow). The connector between the two components is usually
the first place you will see heat building. Most people find out their
charging system is done because the battery's dead. They buy a new
battery which dies one or two rides later. Then the bike is trucked to
the repair shop for some expensive labour. If you catch it before it
fails (buy the replacement ahead of time) it's a quick and cheep fix.
You shouldn't need a new battery or stator, but sometimes that is the
case. If you're handy with a multi meter it's very easy to test you
charging system and all it's components. an hour of prevention could
easily save you $300 in labour.