`82 Yamaha XJ650 Won't Start But Runs Great NEED ADVICE
kyl...@excite.com
The problem is that it is very hard to start or won't start - unless I put a
very small amount of starter fluid in the air box opening. Once I do this,
it starts right up and runs well. Idles a little slow until warm (I think
this is normal). After 2-3 minutes, idles and runs great. Once the bike is
warm, it will start again with no problem at all. I have tried starting it
with the choke in various positions. With the choke on full, it will
sometimes sputter for 1-2 seconds, and then die. Then it seems like once it
has done this "sputter" thing, it won't even fire until I let it sit for
about 15-20 minutes. One 1 second shot of starter fluid seems to fix the
problem completely.
Here is what I have tried so far:
Cleaned carbs. (twice, very thoroughly, a big pain)
Replaced the jets in the carbs (main and pilot, the second time I cleaned
the carbs)
Replaced fuel line
Used a gas tank restoration kit (insideof tank did have a little rust)
Added an inline fuel filter (works the same with or without the inline
filter installed)
Replaced air filter
Inspected intake boots carefully for leaks.
Tested the vacuum activated fuel petcock
Obviously it is not getting enough fuel to start, but I am baffled why such
a small amount of starter fluid seems to completely fix the problem.
I have not synchronized the carbs. The previous owner said they had just
been sync'ed. Since it idles fine once warm, I don't this this would be the
problem, but I am not sure.
I would appreciate any advice.
ShadowHawk
http://www.micapeak.com/lists/XJ-OWNERS
This is where the heavy hitters for the XJ series of engines reside and
assist with you to work on your bike.
2 - The symtoms you describe are indicitive of a fuel delivery problem.
Most likely in a couple of clogged pilot/starter circuit.
When you replaced the pilot & main jets... did you use the Haynes manual
for placement of them? If so, be aware that the Haynes manual for the
650/750 engines has the main/pilot jets reversed in more than one edition
of this manual.... It's also possible to install the fuel floats upside
down... (Don't ask me how I know this!!)
G'Luck - and I'll see ya on the XJ Owners list!
Rex S.
'82 XJ650 Maxim
'82 XJ750 Seca
kyl...@excite.com wrote in news:XK8Bg.1121035$xm3.701002@attbi_s21:
FB
>
> The problem is that it is very hard to start or won't start - unless I put a
> very small amount of starter fluid in the air box opening. Once I do this,
> it starts right up and runs well. Idles a little slow until warm (I think
> this is normal). After 2-3 minutes, idles and runs great. Once the bike is
> warm, it will start again with no problem at all. I have tried starting it
> with the choke in various positions. With the choke on full, it will
> sometimes sputter for 1-2 seconds, and then die. Then it seems like once it
> has done this "sputter" thing, it won't even fire until I let it sit for
> about 15-20 minutes. One 1 second shot of starter fluid seems to fix the
> problem completely.
I have explained this a bazillion times. Your motorcycle doesn't HAVE a
choke. It has a bypass enrichener system. It's a little valve in a hole
that bypasses the butterfly. There is a fuel passage that sucks
gasoline straight out of the float bowl.
When the idle mixture circuits get dirty, the engine begins to stall,
and the owner will adjust the idle speed screw to make the engine idle
faster.
This defeats the bypass enrichener. When the butterflies are open too
far, the engine vacuum is too low to suck up enough mixture to start.
The solution to your problem is to add about 4 ounces of Berryman's
B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner to a full tank of gas and go
for a ride.
When the B-12 starts cleaning the idle mixture circuits out, the idle
speed will increase and you'll have to turn it down.
By the time you have run a full tank of B-12 through the engine, the
carbs should be spiffy clean inside.
> I have not synchronized the carbs. The previous owner said they had just
> been sync'ed. Since it idles fine once warm, I don't this this would be the
> problem, but I am not sure.
Carburetor synchronization is a moneymaker for mechanic$ in
$tealer$hip$.
When the carburetors get dirty inside, sure, the engine is going to run
rough on one or two cylinders. Run some carburetor cleaner through the
gasoline on a regular basis and you never need to synchronize the
carburetors.
I used my cheapie Carb Stix exactly twice and wound up throwing them
away.
Paul Gustafson
"FB" <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1154830833....@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
I usually head for the nearest steep downgrade, make sure no-one is behind
me, get up to about 45 mph (or whatever your first gear redline speed is)
then downshift to first and pop the clutch with the throttles closed. Repeat
a few times and the extra suction on the idle passages in the carburetors
ensures that the carb cleaner reaches the clogged passages. Works like a
champ. Just be sure you are prepared for the resultant engine braking when
you let go of the clutch lever.
FZ6 Vet
FB
e wrote:
> really, if you can't set a air mix screw and idle screw,
> give the bike away.
The purpose of rec.motorcycles.tech is to help the newbie fix his own
problems and keep him out of the clutche$ of the predator$ at the
$tealer$hip$.
The typical newbie rider knows nothing of mechanical things and is the
natural prey of the avariciou$
mechanic in the $tealer$hip.
The modern carburetor's idle mixture screws are hidden underneath EPA
anti-tamper plugs. This simple fact helps the mechanic to make $$$$ for
unnecessary carburetor synchronizing.
The newbie rider often buys an older machine which has sat unused for a
few months or years and all the gasoline has evaporated from the float
bowls.
So the newbie suffers through all the problems of wondering why he
cannot start his motorcycle at all, or why it stalls when hot or is
hard to start when hot, and if he is "lucky" enough to find a
$tealer$hip
that will work on a neglected machine that is five or ten years old,
the mechanic$ $crew him on labor
for a lot of complicated di$a$$embly, cleaning, re$$embly and carb
$ynchronization.
We're talking about $50 to $60 an hour for the mechanic$ supposed
experti$e, here, folks. Maybe $600 for the whole job. No real
guarantees, either...
The $tealer$hip and their yuppy fans wouldn't like to hear somebody
saying the problem can be fixed by buying a $3.00 can of carburetor
cleaner from Wal*Mart.
So I tell newbies that the simplest way to clean the carburetor is
Berryman's B-12 in the gasoline, and the bored NG trolls don't want to
read that simple advice again and again.
But, maybe, just maybe, the original poster will read this thread and
try my advice before getting screwed by a $tealer$hip.
When I first started riding motorcycles, everybody who rode a
motorcycle knew everybody in town who rode a motorcycle. We all rode
together and helped each other. We had fun.
There was none of this RUB shit, and I never met a motorcycle-riding
fairy who haughtily told me, "Well, *my* mechanic charges me a lot of
money, and he says such and such, and I wouldn't even dream of trying
to fix it myself, because he wouldn't ever service my machine again"
until recently.
_Bob_Nixon
>I have a 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim with about 11K miles on it.
>
Please desist from posting this old shit from AMS. 90% of the bikes
owned by folks in AMS (save dirt singles) are fuel injected and <10
years old. I hate to sound like a "sport bike snob" but your massive
X-posting has pissed me off.
FIX:
Ride it once in awhile and above all keep the fuel system filled with
fresh gasoline/oil and or use some product such as "stabile"!
PS." rec.motorcycles.tech" was the only group you needed to post this
to.
Bob Nixon, Chandler AZ
01 Sprint ST "RED" 54K miles
http://bigrex.net/pictures
The Older Gentleman
> The purpose of rec.motorcycles.tech is to help the newbie fix his own
> problems and keep him out of the clutche$ of the predator$ at the
> $tealer$hip$.
No, it fucking isn't. We've done this before. Have a l;ook at the
charter.
--
Trophy 1200 750SS CB400F CD250 Z650
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
Binder Dundat
> On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 22:14:15 GMT, kyl...@excite.com wrote:
>
> >I have a 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim with about 11K miles on it.
> >
>
> Please desist from posting this old shit from AMS. 90% of the bikes
> owned by folks in AMS (save dirt singles) are fuel injected and <10
> years old. I hate to sound like a "sport bike snob" but your massive
> X-posting has pissed me off.
So. What are you down to in AMS these days, Bob? Maybe 10 usually
off-topic posters, and you and Filbert?
FB
e wrote:
> we're talking about an 82 here.
As if the OP didn't mention that from jump street...
The $tealer$hip mechanic$ won't touch it. His other choices are to let
some unreliable independant mechanic store it in his junkyard workshop
until he finally gets around to fixing it, or to ask total strangers on
Usenet how to fix the problem himself.
You got a problem with me telling him how to fix it for $3.00?
> and you'r so LeEEt $ for s bullshit is childish.
Using "$" for "s" isn't elitist. This is elitist: ÓÕÃË ÍÙ
ÄÉÃË, ÆÁÇÇÏÔ!
FB
The Older Gentleman wrote:
> FB <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > The purpose of rec.motorcycles.tech is to help the newbie fix his own
> > problems and keep him out of the clutche$ of the predator$ at the
> > $tealer$hip$.
>
> No, it fucking isn't. We've done this before. Have a l;ook at the
> charter.
Description of the group is "motorcycle technical discussion".
The implication is that the discussion is *useful* discussion.
The purpose of a conversation is to exchange useful information or to
establish social dominance.
If you know everything that I know, and I know everything you know,
what is the function of the conversation?
You can often tell who is trying to establish social dominance by
counting the number of useless posts to a newsgroup.
Google even counts the number of post from the most frequent users.
If there's any useful content in your posts, I have yet to find it.
Of course, I don't have many questions to ask about Honda imitation
motorcycles.
Robert Roland
>I have a 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim with about 11K miles on it.
>
>The problem is that it is very hard to start or won't start - unless I put a
>very small amount of starter fluid in the air box opening.
You have an electrical problem. I know it sounds stupid, but I am not
kidding. Most likely, your battery is getting weak.
>Obviously it is not getting enough fuel to start, but I am baffled why such
>a small amount of starter fluid seems to completely fix the problem.
The old XJ series are known for their weak ignition system and their
very strong starters. When the battery is getting old, the starter
will draw so much current that the battery is not able to sustain
enough voltage to drive the ignition system.
The starter fluid will ignite with a very weak spark, perhaps
completely without spark at all. Once the engine fires a few times,
the starter unloads, the voltage rises and the ignition system start
working.
If you have a voltmeter, try measuring the voltage at the ignition
coils while cranking the starter. My guess is you'll read around 7
volts.
Get a new battery and be amazed.
--
RoRo
The Older Gentleman
> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > FB <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > > The purpose of rec.motorcycles.tech is to help the newbie fix his own
> > > problems and keep him out of the clutche$ of the predator$ at the
> > > $tealer$hip$.
> >
> > No, it fucking isn't. We've done this before. Have a l;ook at the
> > charter.
>
> Description of the group is "motorcycle technical discussion".
>
> The implication is that the discussion is *useful* discussion.
Is it? Very abstruse and hypothetical discussion is interesting but has
little or no utility. You are making a very dangerous assumption. And
even if that were true, how do you get from that to your alleged
"purpose" above?
>
> The purpose of a conversation is to exchange useful information or to
> establish social dominance.
Not necessarily.
>
> If you know everything that I know, and I know everything you know,
> what is the function of the conversation?
Entertainment. Social interaction. Saying "I'm here and fine; how are
you?"
>
> You can often tell who is trying to establish social dominance by
> counting the number of useless posts to a newsgroup.
Really? Does your source tell you how many times one needs to mention
Berryman's carb cleaner to achieve the same effect?
>
> Google even counts the number of post from the most frequent users.
Coo, you learn something new every day.
>
> If there's any useful content in your posts, I have yet to find it.
Look harder.
>
> Of course, I don't have many questions to ask about Honda imitation
> motorcycles.
Sorry, don't understand. Do you mean Chinese clones or what?
Look, you have a lot of useful knowledge, which is balanced by the
ignorance you also display.....
FB
> The old XJ series are known for their weak ignition system and their
> very strong starters. When the battery is getting old, the starter
> will draw so much current that the battery is not able to sustain
> enough voltage to drive the ignition system.
You have an interesting point. Motorcycle ignition systems often
produce rather low voltage due to the need for a quick voltage rise
when the points open or the transistor
is triggered.
The low voltage compromise is overcome by making the idle mixture
richer than is needed for best economy.
The EPA, however, demanded that the idle mixture be made a lot leaner
in order
meet air pollution requirements.
I suspect that the original poster's idle mixture circuits are actually
quite dirty, and I recommend that he put 4 ounces of Berryman's B-12
Chemtool Choke and Carburetor
Cleaner in a full tank of gasoline and go for a slow ride in order to
clean the carbs out.
B-12 can be bought at any auto parts store or Wal*Mart and comes in
15-ounce liquid or 15-oz aerosol cans for about $3.00.
Trying the B-12 will be a lot cheaper than buying a new battery for
about $40.00.
FB
> > Description of the group is "motorcycle technical discussion".
> >
> > The implication is that the discussion is *useful* discussion.
>
> Is it? Very abstruse and hypothetical discussion is interesting but has
> little or no utility. You are making a very dangerous assumption. And
> even if that were true, how do you get from that to your alleged
> "purpose" above?
OK, so you don't like technical discussion and you don't like helpful
tips to newbies, unless you deign to dispense some of your craftily
hoarded knowledge. So what is your function in this NG?
>
> >
> > The purpose of a conversation is to exchange useful information or to
> > establish social dominance.
>
> Not necessarily.
Get off it. You want to big a big frog in a small pond, but you don't
want to put much effort into actually *helping* anybody.
>
> >
> > If you know everything that I know, and I know everything you know,
> > what is the function of the conversation?
>
> Entertainment. Social interaction. Saying "I'm here and fine; how are
> you?"
I'm am well aware that you are "here". You've posted thousands of
rebukes to innocent posters who are trying to get their motorbike
running.
>
> >
> > You can often tell who is trying to establish social dominance by
> > counting the number of useless posts to a newsgroup.
>
>
> Really? Does your source tell you how many times one needs to mention
> Berryman's carb cleaner to achieve the same effect?
It's necessary to mention B-12 to every poster who has dirty
carburetors.
I suspect that the original poster's idle mixture circuits are actually
quite dirty, and I recommend that he put 4 ounces of Berryman's B-12
Chemtool Choke and Carburetor
Cleaner in a full tank of gasoline and go for a slow ride in order to
clean the carbs out.
And, I believe that there are avaricious mechanic$ working in
$tealer$hip$ who make their living off of prescribing needless
carburetor synchronization to newbies who could benefit from putting 4
ounces of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner in a
full tank of gasoline and going for a slow ride in order to clean the
carbs out instead of buying batteries and spark plugs and wasting their
money with independant mechanic$ running a junkyard shop.
Say, have I mentioned Berryman's B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor
Cleaner recently? I will be sure to include it in every post from now
on. ;-)
pete
>
> Say, have I mentioned Berryman's B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor
> Cleaner recently? I will be sure to include it in every post from now
> on. ;-)
>
:)
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=140
The Older Gentleman
> > Is it? Very abstruse and hypothetical discussion is interesting but has
> > little or no utility. You are making a very dangerous assumption. And
> > even if that were true, how do you get from that to your alleged
> > "purpose" above?
>
> OK, so you don't like technical discussion and you don't like helpful
> tips to newbies, unless you deign to dispense some of your craftily
> hoarded knowledge. So what is your function in this NG?
I do like technical discussion. Not hectoring and infomercials about
Berrymans. Why said I didn't like tech discussions? Who said I don't
like helpful tips? Only you.
> >
<snip>
>
> Get off it. You want to big a big frog in a small pond, but you don't
> want to put much effort into actually *helping* anybody.
Bwaaahahahaha! Talking to the mirror?
<snip>
> I'm am well aware that you are "here". You've posted thousands of
> rebukes to innocent posters who are trying to get their motorbike
> running.
Thousands? Liar. If you think otherwise, please post no fewer than one
thousand Google references here.
<snip>
> It's necessary to mention B-12 to every poster who has dirty
> carburetors.
No, it isn't. Just tell 'em to search rmt for the solution.
<snip>
>
> And, I believe that there are avaricious mechanic$ working in
> $tealer$hip$ who make their living off of prescribing needless
> carburetor synchronization to newbies who could benefit from putting 4
> ounces of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner in a
> full tank of gasoline and going for a slow ride in order to clean the
> carbs out instead of buying batteries and spark plugs and wasting their
> money with independant mechanic$ running a junkyard shop.
Of course there are. And there are good dealers, too.
The Older Gentleman
Kent
great! I used the recommended 4oz's and went for a ride. i could tell it was
idling better in no time! The bike sits in the garage a lot and i'm sure the
gas gets old and gummy. And I just paid $2.65 for a 15oz can at Advance
Auto. :-P
http://webpages.charter.net/kgolden/maverick.htm
thanks,
Pete
"FB" <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1154905672.4...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Kent
Kent
"e" <som...@some.domain> wrote in message
news:KptDg.297438$1Q1....@fe03.news.easynews.com...
> In article <JUsDg.759$j56...@newsfe05.lga>, "Kent"
> if you bike sits a lot, use fuel stabilizer to stop the
> varnish.
FB
Kent wrote:
> I tryed your chemtool B-12 today in my 90 CBR1000 (on topic?) and it worked
> great!
It isn't *my* B-12. I don't distill it in a shed in the woods, I don't
drink it, I don't sniff it,
but I use it on a regular basis to keep my carburetors working as they
were intended to work.
The EPA clean air requirements call for very lean idle mixture to pass
the HC tests.
The ubiquitous constant vacuum carburetor runs on its idle jets about
95% of the time, unless the rider goes onto the race track. So
cleanliness of the idle jets and passages is critical for easy starting
and warm up and good throttle response.
The average rider actually tends to ride his machine only about 5000
miles a year, keeps the machine about 4 years, and sells it.
The newbie rider is the natural prey of the greedy mechanic in the
$tealer$hip who make$ his living by pre$cribing unece$$ary carburetor
$ynchronizing.
If the carburetors are dirty going into the $hop, and the mechanic
tweak$ the $crews that $ynchronize the carb$ to get the engine to run
$moothly, the rider will go for a ride and the alcohol additives
normally in new gasoline will clean out the jets and passages and the
carbs will be out of synch again because the $hop weinie tweaked with
the $crews.
markym...@sbcglobal.net
The Older Gentleman
> I agree with FB...Mark
Splendid. That's what made your democracy great.
PETE
didn't like your helpful hints. He must own a dealership.
I've worked on my own bikes and cars for 35 yrs. I still appreciate help
every now and then.
http://webpages.charter.net/kgolden/maverick.htm
Pete
"FB" <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1155488252....@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
kyl...@excite.com
I've tried the Berryman's B12 with no effect. I thought it ran a little
rough at first, but I'm not sure. I had also tried “Seafoam” carb cleaner
in a previous tank of fuel.
I've cleaned the carbs twice, very thoroughly. Off the bike, all
disasembled. All new pilot and main jets were installed. Soaked the body
overnight in parts cleaner. Blew compressed air through all the passages.
I even used an ultrasonic electric toothbrush to clean all the parts. They
almost look like new inside. Because of this, I doubt a blocked idle
mixture circuit. The carbs are very clean. I used the OEM Yamaha manual
when replacing the jets, so I don't think I have them reversed.
I tried the, “go 45MPH, put it is first gear, and pop the clutch…”
suggestion also.
I don't think it is a battery, because my battery is new and I've been
keeping it charged. Usually leave my charger on while cranking it and
trying to get it started. It's only a 6 amp, but helps. Granted, I've been
doing a lot of cranking, but I charge it up after working on the bike.
I did notice that once it is good and hot (like after a 40 mile ride) it
will idle pretty high, around 1300 - 1400 RPM. The idle screw only takes it
down so far, then seems to have no effect.
In response to the mixture screw posting - I am a newbie but not an idiot.
I could learn to set the idle mixture screws but the screws on my carbs are
at their original settings and still sealed with the red silicone. I would
prefer to get it running stock as is.
Could the symptoms be caused by float levels off? I don't think so, but it
is one thing I have not checked. Two of the fload drain screws are stripped
and I can't get them out. Any suggestions for getting the stripped screws
out?
Otherwise, I'm still looking for suggestions to the original problem - won't
start when cold (sits overnight). …Otherwise it runs pretty well and will
start OK, even after sitting for an hour or two.
Also does anyone know what size the main air jet and pilot air jet should
be? I'm also wondering if mine have been changed at some time. My OEM
service manual doesn't state the air jet sizes, just the fuel jet sizes. My
air jets are 205's and 50's.
In regards to the poster that suggested measuring the voltage off the coil,
is that accurate? I've heard of checking the resistance (OEM manual has
specs for resistance), but the voltage would be very high, correct?
Thanks again for everyone that posting meaningful advice.
EffJay R. Yamaha
>
> ... I even used an ultrasonic electric toothbrush to clean all
> the parts.
I don't believe that there's any such thing. If you're talking about
Sonicare, they don't have anything more to do with ultrasound than an
ordinary toothbrush does. _Sonic_, not ultrasonic. That means they make
sound.
Paul Gustafson
>>Thanks again for everyone that posting meaningful advice.
>
> carb to the maifold tested? even a smal leak could do it.
This is an easy thing to test.
First get it started and running without the enrichment circuit. Next spray
the boots with a non-flammable aerosol such as WD-40 with the airbox in
place. If you spray a boot and the idle speed increases, you have located an
intake leak. If not, I would check for proper float height next.
Thirdly if the problem persists, check the valve clearances. Cold valves may
not seal tightly enough if the clearances are too tight.As the bike warms up
the aluminum head expands further than the steel valves resulting in
slightly more clearance which may allow the valves to seat better. At
cranking speeds even one leaking intake valve may affect cold start
performance.
Robert Roland
>In regards to the poster that suggested measuring the voltage off the coil,
>is that accurate? I've heard of checking the resistance (OEM manual has
>specs for resistance), but the voltage would be very high, correct?
You measure the voltage on the primary side of the coil, not the
actual spark voltage.
--
RoRo
MJW
solution.
"FB" <flying...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1154830833....@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> kyl...@excite.com wrote:
>
>>
>> The problem is that it is very hard to start or won't start - unless I
>> put a
>> very small amount of starter fluid in the air box opening. Once I do
>> this,
>> it starts right up and runs well. Idles a little slow until warm (I
>> think
>> this is normal). After 2-3 minutes, idles and runs great. Once the bike
>> is
>> warm, it will start again with no problem at all. I have tried starting
>> it
>> with the choke in various positions. With the choke on full, it will
>> sometimes sputter for 1-2 seconds, and then die. Then it seems like once
>> it
>> has done this "sputter" thing, it won't even fire until I let it sit for
>> about 15-20 minutes. One 1 second shot of starter fluid seems to fix the
>> problem completely.
>
> I have explained this a bazillion times. Your motorcycle doesn't HAVE a
> choke. It has a bypass enrichener system. It's a little valve in a hole
> that bypasses the butterfly. There is a fuel passage that sucks
> gasoline straight out of the float bowl.
>
> When the idle mixture circuits get dirty, the engine begins to stall,
> and the owner will adjust the idle speed screw to make the engine idle
> faster.
>
> This defeats the bypass enrichener. When the butterflies are open too
> far, the engine vacuum is too low to suck up enough mixture to start.
>
> The solution to your problem is to add about 4 ounces of Berryman's
> B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner to a full tank of gas and go
> for a ride.
>
> When the B-12 starts cleaning the idle mixture circuits out, the idle
> speed will increase and you'll have to turn it down.
>
> By the time you have run a full tank of B-12 through the engine, the
> carbs should be spiffy clean inside.
>
>> I have not synchronized the carbs. The previous owner said they had just
>> been sync'ed. Since it idles fine once warm, I don't this this would be
>> the
>> problem, but I am not sure.
>
> Carburetor synchronization is a moneymaker for mechanic$ in
> $tealer$hip$.
>
> When the carburetors get dirty inside, sure, the engine is going to run
> rough on one or two cylinders. Run some carburetor cleaner through the
> gasoline on a regular basis and you never need to synchronize the
> carburetors.
>
> I used my cheapie Carb Stix exactly twice and wound up throwing them
> away.
>
B-12
MJW wrote:
> I just wanted to thank the gentleman who advised the Berryman's ChemTool
> solution.
You're welcome.
"FB" <flying...@yahoo.com> <--- (takes a bow)