Bike Painting at Home?
Daniel Bannon
Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
see the street.
The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
'-----------------------------------------------------
' Daniel Bannon
' NW WA State, U.S.A.
' 2003 ZX-6R, 2000 RSV Mille, 1999 CBR1100XX
'-----------------------------------------------------
Bruce Woodburn
your job to an autobody job. In other words, yours gets painted with the
same paint as the car. If you choose something common like white or silver,
they won't have to wait long before a job comes along. Bikes are relatively
expensive to paint because fixed mixing / clean up time.
Never done it myself, but I know someone who had oriental style furniture
painted black this way. It looked like a million $ lacquer job. He had to
wait a month before the shop happened to get a black car in for paint. But
if you're not fussy about the color, you won't have to wait.
B
"Daniel Bannon" <daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote in message
news:1c7chv4b71td14i69...@4ax.com...
Bubba
<daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote:
>Any recent threads or websites out there about home bike paintjobs?
>
>Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
>
>Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
>
>I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
>job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
>prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
>of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
>see the street.
>
>The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
>
>Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
DO NOT take it to Maaco. They royally fucked my car before I bought
it. I've counted 7 coats of their paint on top of the factory paint.
Glass parts have to have flex additive in the paint or it'll spiderweb
before you can get it on the bike. It's not real tough to do it
yourself assuming you have a large air compressor, air drier, and
spray gun. 90% of the job is in the prep. With good prep you can even
make rattlecans look good. Just make it as smooth as you want the
paint to be by alternating primer and sanding until you get to about
1500 grit, then shoot paint, give it a week to cure, buff it with
medium or fine rubbing compound, and shoot it with a couple of coats
of clear.
Steve
95 Buell S2
96 Kawasaki ZX7R
PQ
news:1c7chv4b71td14i69...@4ax.com...
> Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
> Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
> I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
> job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
> prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
> of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
> see the street.
bodywork with 'rattlecans'.
Prep work is critical. Keep it clean.
Wet sand only with progressive grits, 400 - 1000 -1500-2000
(I never used to wet sand, went thru sandpaper like crazy, wet makes it last
much longer and gets things very smooth)
Wash with rubbing alcohol and then use 'tack' cloth before primer. (Alcohol
removes finger print oil, tack cloth removes dust)
I bot some real tack 'cloths' at an autobody supply shop.
Plastic primer if ABS/Glas, short strokes, thin multi coats.
I use enamel only, no lacquer.
Use same brand primer, paint and clearcoat. I carefully 'warm' the cans
before using.
Paint flows better when warmed.
I prefer Duplicolor or Canadian Tire (made for them by Duplicolor, I called
the factory)
PQ
culprit
"Daniel Bannon" <daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote in message
news:1c7chv4b71td14i69...@4ax.com...
>
> Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
>
> Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
>
> I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
> job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
> prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
> of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
> see the street.
>
> The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
>
> Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
sandpaper. lots and lots of sandpaper.
you can use my air compressor if you buy the paint sprayer. :-)
--
-kelly
00 Aprilia Pegaso
01 Aprilia Falco
Shadowfax
> Any recent threads or websites out there about home bike
> paintjobs?
>
> Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
>
> Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
>
> I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do
> the job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to
> win prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat
> or two of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork
> will never see the street.
>
> The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
>
> Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
http://www.paintucation.com
http://www.cobralads.com/butcher32.html
Find a good local paint distributer. They can be a great source of
information if they have the time. If you use Isocyanate Paints, make
sure you get a good respirator.
I like Bruce’s idea personally. You do the prep and let someone else
shoot it. Some of that shit can kill you. That said, PPG and others
now make a premium quality primer that you roll on! Yes, you heard me
correctly. It sands beautifully and since you’re rolling it on it
covers the first time and there’s no overspray, gun clean-up etc. I
used it last summer on my sons’ car then let someone else shoot the
color.
--
Scott
98 Triumph Daytona
**Remove the NO and SPAM from my e-mail address to reply**
Mr Caveman
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 03:53:48 GMT, Daniel Bannon
<daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote:
Skip to bottom for paint links if you don't want to read my advice:
It's all in the preparation. I would strip the panels/tank and
whatever else you are going to paint. Use a medium grit wet/dry paper
to take off existing paint. I'd say about 400 to 600 grit to start.
Make sure to put washing up liquid into the warm water when rubbing
down. Also on any large flat areas be sure to use a sanding block
under the sand paper (UK based here so you might have to translate
some things I say, our language has changed a little since you kicked
us out). Emm right, when you have all the body rubbed down (you don't
have to remove all the paint as the sand paper will create a non shiny
finish for the new paint to stick too) use a de-greasing agent
(available from your automotive paint distributor) to take off any
contaminates. Now use a fine wet & dry sand paper to rub down the
bodywork again, about 1000 to 1200 grit will make a nice finish. Next
is primer. Probably best to talk to your paint supplier to find out
what is best to put on to your panels. I use cellulose paint as 2 pack
paints can be dangerous to your health if you do not have an adequate
fresh air supply. Also it might be worth doing all the rubbing down
outside as you want as dust free area as possible when painting the
body panels. Now you should be able to apply a primer. I would use a
filler primer (thick) with a 50% primer 50% thinners mix and probably
about 2 ltrs in quantity. First give the panels the first coat. Make
sure to spray from the top of the job downwards. I normally do the
underside of the tank first and edges before giving the bits you see a
good coat. Keep the spray gun approx 1 inch away from your work and
try and keep that distance over the complete job. Do not worry if you
get slight runs as you can flat them down when its dry. After the
first coat of primer is on I would apply a fine dust coat of black can
spray. This only needs to be speckled or lightly dusted on. Then rub
down using a 600 grit wet & dry sand paper (think America calls it
glass paper but not 100% sure about that). All you do is lightly rub
until most of the black dust coat is removed. This will show you any
high or low points on your work that you might need to fill with a
filler, If you have any big dents use a product such as P38 body
filler, if they are very slight you can use a cellulose filler which
is much finer. When that's done use give the paintwork another light
de-grease. I would also buy some tack rags which are as they say,
light rag with a little stickiness to them, Before you paint just wipe
them over the area you are about to paint to remove any dust that can
take away from a nice finish. I would apply a few coats of primer
using the same techniques I have just explained. When you are happy
there is enough primer on your body panels rub down with that dust
coat of black using about 800 to 1000 grit sand paper. Always make
sure you use the wet & dry paper type and also make sure its always
kept wet including what you are rubbing down as this will stop the
paint picking up. I would also give each coat at least 30 minutes
before rubbing down so it hardens. Depends on your climate also.
When you have finished the priming you should find you have a finish
as smooth as a baby's bum (bottom, ass, arse). Now your ready for the
top coat (colour or color for Americans).
I would start using a 50% paint 50% thinners mix again (ask your paint
dealer as this can change from different products). TIP: Always buy
enough paint for the job as colours (colors) can vary slightly.
Give the body panels about 5 coats in total (approx 3 to 5 ltrs of
paint on average sports bike). Rub down using medium grit wet and dry
paper between coats, You do not need to use the dust coat when
applying the colour (color) as this is only to highlight high and low
spots on your bodywork and that should be beautifully smooth because
of the primer stage. When you think you have enough paint on the bike
parts use a 25% paint to 75% thinners mix as your final coat, this
will give you a shine to die for. Finally rub down the finished
paintwork (lightly) to remove any dust spots or slight runs in the
paint using a 1200 to 1600 grit sand paper. Make sure if you are
finally going to apply a lacquer not to put any polishing products
near you unfinished panels. This would contaminate them with silicon
(what plastic pammys tits contain) and you end up with spots the
paint does not stick too. You can if you want buy paint additives that
try and eliminate this from happening, once again talk to you paint
supplier if you want to use a "fast flow" type additive. When you have
finished the painting process rub down with 1200 to 1600 grit paper
(making sure to use water) and then polish. Use a medium grit rubbing
compound first working in circles as you polish and finish off with a
nice soft polish. Make sure to use nice soft polishing rag when doing
any polishing. Give the panels a day or two to get some hardness
before refitting them. Its worth noting that cellulose paint can take
about 15 years to fully harden, but you don't want to take chances and
scratch any of the soft paint, a couple of days should give it time to
cure enough to avoid mistakes. Also its worth cleaning the spray area
before you do any paintwork as a compressor will throw dust in to the
air. Put dust cloths over anything you do not want covered in a fine
dust!
You can get away with a 25ltr compressor, and a low consumption spray
gun. Worth seeing if any hire shops will rent you one for a week or so
if you do not want to buy one. Also make sure to clean the spray gun
out fully when not in use. I normally buy 10ltrs of high quality
thinners for the paint and 5ltrs of low quality thinners to clean the
gun on any jobs I do. There was a couple of paint sites put in a brit
mag I read so if I find the links that could help you I'll post them
later in this thread.
Hope this is helpful and not too confusing, Remember the most
important thing is any preparation as any dents or marks in the paint
through this process will stick out like a sore thumb when the final
coat is on. DO NOT be frightened to paint your own bike as anyone who
can piss up a wall can paint, as I keep saying its all in the
preparation!
MOST IMPORTANT get a real nice mask when painting, you don't want to
be breathing down that shit especially if you use 2 pack type paints,
they can contain real nasty unhealthy products! Also make sure you
have a water trap between the compressor and the spray gun as you do
not want water in your paintwork.
Found those paint links .... If you follow my guide you should get a
real nice finish ... I am Rolls Royce trained and spent over 15 years
working for them here in the UK but these might provide some clearer
tips on paint types. 2 pack is ideal for bikes as its rubbery and
repels paint chips but as I say not that good for your health if you
breath it in,
http://www.diycompressors.com/spraying/
www.scottgrundfor.com/pages/collector.html
www.austinseven.mcmail.com/paint.htm
www.ccrestore.com/dev/index.cfm?action=process <---- about fibreglass
painting
www.chpower.com/promotion/index.asp
Enjoy,
Mr Caveman
00 Bandit 1200
97 ZX9R
58 Triumph T100
74 Vespa 90SS
Load's more in bits and boxes (:
Manu ®
> I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
> job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
> prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
> of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
> see the street.
>
> The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
>
> Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
>
> '-----------------------------------------------------
> ' Daniel Bannon
> ' NW WA State, U.S.A.
> ' 2003 ZX-6R, 2000 RSV Mille, 1999 CBR1100XX
> '-----------------------------------------------------
Yup, you could do that.
Primer is cheap: $9 a can (like a big can) you might need two.
Paint is expensive unless you buy some Krylon at the Pep Boys or
something.
I painted my body work myself in me garage and it looks actually not
as lame as I thought it might, but then again, I don't care much how
it looks cos it was for my GSX-R: so, track bike.
I bought the paint in spay can ($30 a 11oz can) from color-rite. The
normal paint that you vaporize thru a spray gun (assuming you have the
compressor) is far less expensive and you need less. So instead of
spending $200 on paint in spray cans, borrow a spray gun get the
cheaper paint and you're set.
The clear coat only require one coat and should be applied at least
40mins after the paint was finished. ya wait 24h, ya buff it a little
and there you go! just like it came out of factory :)
--Manu
Andrew
"Daniel Bannon" <daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote in message
news:1c7chv4b71td14i69...@4ax.com...
>
> Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
>
> Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
>
> I could pay BrandX (local shop) or Maico three hundred bucks to do the
> job, and it'd probably look quite good. I'm not looking to win
> prizes, though: thinking a coat or two of primer, plus a coat or two
> of paint and clear coat. Done, end of story: the bodywork will never
> see the street.
>
> The weather's nice so I thought I'd give it a whirl.
>
> Comments, links to websites, etc. pls.
>
Just take it to brand x and let Brandon do it. Drop it off, pick it up, end
of dilemma.
--
Andrew
00 Daytona
00 Speed Triple
http://ultrasupercool.com
Tim Kreitz
>
> Have: race bodywork, garage, at least half a brain, tools.
>
> Need: average quality paintjob. Mono-color, simple.
You should really consider buying your paint from here:
http://www.pjhbrands.com/pj1/index.htm
A friend of mine recently did his Z-1000 in a dark PJ1 red, and it's
the best rattle-can paint I've ever seen. It looks like professional
work.
After seeing the quality, I bought some to repaint my 1978 Montgomery
Ward mini-bike. It was originally red. Then in 1982, my dad and I
painted it blue. Now I'm doing a total restoration and will be
painting it -- you guessed it -- Kawasaki green.
Good luck!
Kindest regards,
Tim Kreitz
AMA #481284
MSF #112502
DoD #2184
2003 ZX7R
2000 ZX6R
1992 ZX600R
http://www.timkreitz.com
------------------------------------------
"I don't think so," said Rene Descartes.
Just then, he disappeared.
------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed in this post are
my own and do not necessarily reflect
the position of any organization with
which I am affiliated.
------------------------------------------
Geribaldy
I'm sorry, but 3-5 litres of paint on a sportsbike?That seems like an awful
lot to me.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.501 / Virus Database: 299 - Release Date: 14/07/03
Daniel Bannon
<yogig.nosp...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>s
Brandon's work is great. I don't feel like spending the dough,
however.
Just got invited to a track date July 30; project's on hold.
Bubba
>You should really consider buying your paint from here:
>http://www.pjhbrands.com/pj1/index.htm
>
>A friend of mine recently did his Z-1000 in a dark PJ1 red, and it's
>the best rattle-can paint I've ever seen. It looks like professional
>work.
>
>After seeing the quality, I bought some to repaint my 1978 Montgomery
>Ward mini-bike. It was originally red. Then in 1982, my dad and I
>painted it blue. Now I'm doing a total restoration and will be
>painting it -- you guessed it -- Kawasaki green.
How does PJ1's Kawasaki green compare to the green on Ninjas? I can
get PJ1 for about $10/can, which is a whole lot better than $30/can
for Color-rite. The Color-rite is a dead on match, but it doesn't go
very far.
Bruce Woodburn
silver") and it came out quite respectable.
95% of the job is in the prep. To prevent unpleasant surprises:
Fill the whole thing with bodyfiller and sand. You'll be amazed at all the
little scratches that pick up filler, saving you work later.
Always sand with a sanding block. High density foam works great. Those
"sanding sponges" work great and seem to last much longer than paper.
Use a different colour primer for alternating coats. That way, when you
start sanding, it's obvious where the high spots are. Use lotsa coats of
primer, sanding between coats. It acts as a "microfiller".
After the last coat of primer, sand with progressively finer wet'n'dry like
everyone tells you.
When you think the prep is finished, wet it and look at the reflected light
on the surface. It will show up all the imperfections you will see after the
clear coat is applied. Curse a bit. Go back and do more prep.
DRY THE PRIMER BEFORE PAINTING!!! I though it was dry (Shit, it felt dry!)
but when the paint started drying, it puckered up like it had been painted
with Polystripper. ARGHHHH! I sanded off all the paint, re-primed and stuck
it in a warm corner for a week.
Put any vinyl decals, pinstripes, etc. on before clear coating. Sign makers
can cut you anything you like... often you can just give them a scan of what
you like and they can scale it and add text. I had a complete set of
"factory" decals made for the $27 minimum cutting charge. (three colours)
Put several coats of clear coat on top. More coats look "deeper", but seem
to increase the "orange peel" effect.
Let it dry, them let it sit for another week to "harden up". This will
reduce the scratches and chips as you are assembling it.
You will make mistakes, but only you will notice them once it's together.
Have fun
"Daniel Bannon" <daniel_...@hahtmail.dott.c0mm> wrote in message
news:1c7chv4b71td14i69...@4ax.com...
Mr Caveman
wrote:
I used 3.5 ltrs on my 97 ZX9R and the paint job is to die for. It's
not expensive (or is not in the uk) so always worth over ordering to
make sure you have enough for:
a. Mistakes, being a new person to spraying it is worth Daniel buying
too much rather than too little.
b. Always handy for future touch up's. Race bikes have a tendency to
slide down the track on the odd occasions, mine has (:
You could just get a 1 ltr and hope for the best, 2 ltrs, yep you'd
probably get away with a thin but respectable paint job. I guess being
from my training and the amount of paint we put on RR's old habits die
hard. A deep paint job does always look the dogs bollocks though.
Mr Caveman
Mr Caveman
wrote:
>
Also worth pointing out to daniel that top feed spray guns do not
waste as much paint as bottom feed. The also create less over spray
Iaka dust).
Bubba
wrote:
>Also worth pointing out to daniel that top feed spray guns do not
>waste as much paint as bottom feed. The also create less over spray
>Iaka dust).
Not entirely true. HVLP guns shoot less overspray, but not all gravity
feed guns are HVLP. Since bikes are basically a bunch of small panels
the best gun to use is an HVLP touchup gun. Unfortunately those aren't
cheap, so a high pressure touchup gun will do, just make sure there's
plenty of dropcloths available.
Bubba
<bru...@dccnet.com> wrote:
>I used Duplicolor to pain my fiberglass helmet to match my bike ("champagne
>silver") and it came out quite respectable.
I used green/purple Mirage on my solo tail and it worked out fairly
well. Gets lots of comments and most people think it's House of Kolor.
Sorry, I'm not spending $250/pint on ANYTHING, EVER.
>95% of the job is in the prep. To prevent unpleasant surprises:
>
>Fill the whole thing with bodyfiller and sand. You'll be amazed at all the
>little scratches that pick up filler, saving you work later.
After that hit it with a couple of coats of Kilz rolled on.
>Always sand with a sanding block. High density foam works great. Those
>"sanding sponges" work great and seem to last much longer than paper.
EPP foam, if you can find it, kicks ass for sanding blocks.
>DRY THE PRIMER BEFORE PAINTING!!! I though it was dry (Shit, it felt dry!)
>but when the paint started drying, it puckered up like it had been painted
>with Polystripper. ARGHHHH! I sanded off all the paint, re-primed and stuck
>it in a warm corner for a week.
Usually that's a result of incompatible paint. The "best" way to paint
a vehicle is to put each layer on before the previous layer is
completely cured (as in within the hour) so all the layers bond
together chemically, not just physically. This REQUIRES flex additive
since you wind up with one thick coat of paint instead of a dozen thin
coats.
>Put any vinyl decals, pinstripes, etc. on before clear coating.
Put a couple of coats of clear down first and let them fully cure,
then add stickers, lightly scuff the clear (0000 steel wool works),
degrease, and clear the hell out of it.
>Put several coats of clear coat on top. More coats look "deeper", but seem
>to increase the "orange peel" effect.
Orange peel comes from the air pressure or temperature being too high
and the paint being too dry when it hits. A few more percent of
reducer will sometimes fix this in later coats or, preferably, switch
to a high temp catalyst.
>Let it dry, them let it sit for another week to "harden up". This will
>reduce the scratches and chips as you are assembling it.
Or post cure it, if it's an epoxy or urethane, by putting it in a
large foil-covered foam insulation box with a 4" vent in the top and a
hair drier or heat gun (low temp, please) shoved through the side near
the bottom. I usually go for about 150° and in the summer I can just
set the post cure box on the driveway and seal up the holes. Since I
do most of my painting in the fall and spring I usually wind up using
a heat gun.
>You will make mistakes, but only you will notice them once it's together.
Part of the fun is learning how to fix those mistakes. If you catch
them early enough you can save the job and no one will ever notice. If
all else fails, slap another sticker on it ;)
And those green fiberglass greenhouse roof panels are great for
practice. The corrugated surface is a bastard to paint so you get good
at gun control pretty quick.
If you really want to get wild, bust out the airbrush between the
color and clear coats. Just a little Createx transparent black in the
right spots around the stickers and body lines makes a boring bike
look like a work of art. Not too much, just enough to add a shadow
here and there, in natural places, to make things like ram air scoops
stick out more, make tails appear longer and wider, and make emblems
look like they're floating. Shoot the Createx straight with fairly
high pressure and fiddle with it a bit to get a feel for how it
handles. When I get around to doing my tail number plates I'm going to
mask the tail and spray the plates pearl white, then mask the plate
and unmask the tail and spray a shadow around the bottom and front of
the plate. When that's cured I'll stick on the "96" and shade it a
bit. After that will be 3-4 coats of clear.
Mr Caveman
True but on the whole if you can lay your hands on a hvlp gun tis a
good start for someone new to the paint game. I find gravity feed guns
a lot better for beginners as the tend to be more forgiving.
As for orange peel this can be cause also by being too close to the
work. You can always flat out orange peel when the paint is dry using
the trusty old wet & dry sand paper.
Thanks,
Mr Caveman
97 ZX9R
00 Bandito 1200
+ boxes of bikes in many. many bits.
Question if anyone bothers to read my blurb in the USA. What are
Triumph parts (pre-unit) like to pick up there? I only ask as a lot of
bikes making it back to the UK market are imported from the US. I am
looking for running gear, clocks, frame, tank for another 58. Actually
I think the engine I have was a re-import from the USA. My wife is a
Virginian so I have the resources to get bits back and they tend to be
expensive and rare in the UK.
Geribaldy
> As for orange peel this can be cause also by being too close to the
> work. You can always flat out orange peel when the paint is dry using
> the trusty old wet & dry sand paper.
You did reccomend spraying with the gun an inch from the workpeice aas I
recall.I can't see how you could get much closer.I personally have never
seen anyone use a spraygun at 1 inch away.
Tim Kreitz
> How does PJ1's Kawasaki green compare to the green on Ninjas? I can
> get PJ1 for about $10/can, which is a whole lot better than $30/can
> for Color-rite. The Color-rite is a dead on match, but it doesn't go
> very far.
>
> Steve
Well, of my three Ninjas, the only lime green one is my 2003 ZX-7R.
The paint I bought for the mini-bike says "Kawasaki Lime Green 88-02."
But to be perfectly honest, I can't tell much difference. Admittedly,
I've only compared by test-painting a piece of scrap plastic, but it
does look very close.
If the dead-on OEM color match is what you're after, Color-rite may be
your best bet. But if "close enough" is good enough, PJ1 paints
certainly seem to be of excellent quality.
Mr Caveman
wrote:
Nope 4 inches
Mr Caveman
wrote:
>
My mistake yes I did! was wizzing through trying to fit as much info
in as I could and scanning through a collection of classic bike and
car mags for those links. I do apologize! that would give a real nice
effect. Of course depends how much pressure you are running through
the gun but still my mistake.
Mr very sorry Caveman
Mr Caveman
in's and out's of gravity feed spray guns that's got to be one of my
least hacked and abused posting's! result I think!!!
Bubba
wrote:
>True but on the whole if you can lay your hands on a hvlp gun tis a
>good start for someone new to the paint game. I find gravity feed guns
>a lot better for beginners as the tend to be more forgiving.
Definately, gravity feed guns kick ass. Less wasted paint since they
can get everything out of the cup and the flow of paint is consistent
so they don't wind up spitting everywhere and causing me to throw
things around the garage ;)
>As for orange peel this can be cause also by being too close to the
>work. You can always flat out orange peel when the paint is dry using
>the trusty old wet & dry sand paper.
I try and avoid sanding paint as much as possible. I hate it with a
passion. I had to repaint my solo tail because of overly aggressive
wetsanding of the clear. It had a bunch of orange peel and I wanted it
gone, so I started sanding. Bad idea. Went through the clear and color
in a couple of spots, so I wound up having to shoot more color then a
TON of clear and it flattened out fairly well. A couple more coats of
clear after the stickers are on will fix it up nicely.
Bubba
>Well, of my three Ninjas, the only lime green one is my 2003 ZX-7R.
>The paint I bought for the mini-bike says "Kawasaki Lime Green 88-02."
>But to be perfectly honest, I can't tell much difference. Admittedly,
>I've only compared by test-painting a piece of scrap plastic, but it
>does look very close.
>
>If the dead-on OEM color match is what you're after, Color-rite may be
>your best bet. But if "close enough" is good enough, PJ1 paints
>certainly seem to be of excellent quality.
Cool, sounds like it's about perfect for a few various parts I have to
do. I have enough Color-rite to finish the fairing, but I need to
paint the front wheel and I'd like to paint a set of ZX6RR mirrors and
stick them on there. Then there's the bar ends, upper fairing bracket,
and a few other bits and pieces scattered around.
John Robertson
thing concerns me is the gas tank. Mine has a "Yamaha" decal under the clear
coat, do i need to sand this and will it remove it? Or just do the prep work
then place a new sticker over the old one? Thanks for any advice. Im gonna
go with Yamaha Black and some custom made decals.
John
'02 R6
'03 Blaster
"Mr Caveman" <cav...@cavehouse.com> wrote in message
news:gm2ghvghsqf5jm22j...@4ax.com...
John Robertson
John
"Bubba" <bu...@beer.com> wrote in message
news:3f179a58....@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net...
Bubba
<cybr...@rapedgeek.net> wrote:
>Steve, you wouldnt happen to have any images of your work?
Just my bike and a few RC cars (tons easier to paint since there's
nearly zero prep work). I'm not a painter, I just paint. In other
words, I'm a cheap bastard that doesn't want to pay someone else to do
something ;)
There are some pics at:
It's next to impossible to get decent pics of the tail because of the
color, it always looks washed out and flat, but in person the color
looks pretty good. I still need to touch up the upper fairing and
clear the repairs, just haven't had time and low enough humidity to
work on it.
Mr Caveman
I would remove the decals. If you can rub the clear coat down with wet
and dry sand paper (glass paper in USA) you can use a hair dryer to
get the sticker off without damaging the paint too much. Just don't
tell the wife!
If you don't remove you'll find when you put on the new decals they
might be too high. Also if there are slightly different in size it'll
show. To get a good paint job you have to make sure the preparation is
perfect. It's worth spending the time and doing it properly. Be ware
if you get the tank shot or sand blasted as that stuff finds it's way
in to everything so you'll have to do a real good job cleaning out the
tank before you put fresh petrol (gas) back in when you use it for the
first time.
Also make sure your garage heating isn't a flame or flame fed. The
thinners in the paint with flash with the flame and give you a new
hair style. If it is fed by flame turn it off and let it cool down
slightly before spraying.
Mr Caveman
<cybr...@rapedgeek.net> wrote:
Actually even a electric fire can make the thinners in the air flash
(mini explode) so turn that off too if that's how your garage is
heated.
Regards,
Mr Caveman
Tim Kreitz
Groovy. Post some pics of it when you're done. I'd enjoy seeing it.
Slowpoke
paint again in 10 minutes. It tends to be a bit brittle but works easy and
polishes to a deep shine. Repairs easy too.
You can spray it out of rattle cans that you can have filled out of your
quart of premixed paint.
I had an old K4 750 that I did a deep gloss black with less than a quart for
the tank and rear fender that included 6 coats of color and 3 of clear. You
could take a picture of yourself when it was freshly waxed.
Keep it simple!
Robert
86vfr700
Sorry if someone else already posted this thought, I couldn't see reading
that many posts to check...