HUD vs. National Electrical Code
Cactus Bob
showed me single insulated wires running to the main panel. The wires are
not part of a Romex cable and not in a conduit. He said the National
Electrical Code as well as local and State codes forbid this. I pointed out
that it was a HUD home and that people on the newsgroup say HUD takes
precedence over all other codes and laws. Am I correct in assuming that the
HUD code means a manufactured home doesn't have to meet the requirements of
the National Electrical Code?
Bob
Augustaga
code...You can find the whole HUD code at
http://www.hud.gov/fha/sfh/mhs/mhshome.html ....Just like government...such
an easy to remember address...
24 CFR Part 3280
3280.808
Wiring methods and materials.
(a) Except as specifically limited in this part, the wiring methods
and materials specified in the National Electrical Code (NFPA No. 70-
1993) shall be used in manufactured homes.
(b) Nonmetallic outlet boxes shall be acceptable only with
nonmetallic cable.
(c) Nonmetallic cable located 15 inches or less above the floor, if
exposed, shall be protected from physical damage by covering boards,
guard strips, or conduit. Cable likely to be damaged by stowage shall be
so protected in all cases.
(d) Nonmetallic sheathed cable shall be secured by staples, straps,
or similar fittings so designed and installed as not to injure any
cable. Cable shall be secured in place at intervals not exceeding 4\1/2\
feet and within 12 inches from every cabinet, box or fitting.
(e) Metal-clad and nonmetallic cables shall be permitted to pass
through the centers of the wide side of 2-inch by 4-inch studs. However,
they shall be protected where they pass through 2-inch by 2-inch studs
or at other studs or frames where the cable or armor would be less than
1\1/2\ inches from the inside or outside surface of the studs when the
wall covering materials are in contact with the studs. Steel plates on
each side of the cable, or a tube, with not less than No. 16 MSG wall
thickness shall be required to protect the cable. These plates or tubes
shall be securely held in place.
(f) Where metallic faceplates are used they shall be effectively
grounded.
(g) If the range, clothes dryer, or similar appliance is connected
by metalclad cable or flexible conduit, a length of not less than three
feet of free cable or conduit shall be provided to permit moving the
appliance. Type NM or Type SE cable shall not be used to connect a range
or a dryer. This shall not prohibit the use of Type NM or Type SE cable
between the branch circuit overcurrent protective device and a junction
box or range or dryer receptacle.
(h) Threaded rigid metal conduit shall be provided with a locknut
inside and outside the box, and a conduit bushing shall be used on the
inside. Rigid nonmetallic conduit shall be permitted. Inside ends of the
conduit shall be reamed.
(i) Switches shall be rated as follows:
(1) For lighting circuits, switches, shall have a 10-ampere, 120-125
volt rating; or higher if needed for the connected load.
(2) For motors or other loads, switches shall have ampere or
horsepower ratings, or both, adequate for loads controlled. (An ``AC
general-use'' snap switch shall be permitted to control a motor 2
horsepower or less with full-load current not over 80 percent of the
switch ampere rating).
(j) At least 4 inches of free conductor shall be left at each outlet
box except where conductors are intended to loop without joints.
(k) When outdoor or under-chassis line-voltage wiring is exposed to
moisture or physical damage, it shall be protected by rigid metal
conduit. The conductors shall be suitable for wet locations. Electrical
metallic tubing may be used when closely routed against frames, and
equipment enclosures.
(l) The cables or conductors shall be Type NMC, TW, or equivalent.
(m) Outlet boxes of dimensions less than those required in Table
370-6(a) of the National Electrical Code (NFPA No. 70-1993) shall be
permitted provided the box has been tested and approved for the purpose.
(n) Boxes, fittings, and cabinets shall be securely fastened in
place, and shall be supported from a structural member of the home,
either directly or by using a substantial brace. Snap-in type boxes
provided with special wall or ceiling brackets that securely fasten
boxes in walls or ceilings shall be permitted.
(o) Outlet boxes shall fit closely to openings in combustible walls
and ceilings, and they shall be flush with such surfaces.
(p) Appliances having branch-circuit terminal connections which
operate at temperatures higher than 60 deg. C (140 deg. F) shall have
circuit conductors as described in paragraphs (p) (1) and (2) of this
section:
(1) Branch-circuit conductors having an insulation suitable for the
temperature encountered shall be permitted to run directly to the
appliance.
(2) Conductors having an insulation suitable for the temperature
encountered shall be run from the appliance terminal connections to a
readily accessible outlet box placed at least one foot from the
appliance. These conductors shall be in a suitable raceway which shall
extend for at least 4 feet.
(q) A substantial brace for securing a box, fitting or cabinet shall
be as described in the National Electrical Code, NFPA 70-1993 Article
370-13(d), or the brace, including the fastening mechanism to attach the
brace to the home structure, shall withstand a force of 50 lbs. applied
to the brace at the intended point(s) of attachment for the box in a
direction perpendicular to the surface in which the box is installed.
(r) Outlet boxes shall fit closely to the openings in combustible
wall and ceilings with a maximum of a \1/8\ inch gap. They shall be
flush with the finish surface or project therefrom.
(s) Where the sheathing of NM cable has been cut or damaged and
visual inspection reveals that the conductor and its insulation has not
been damaged, it shall be permitted to repair the cable sheath with
electrical tape which provides equivalent protection to the sheath.
"Cactus Bob" <No_...@me.com> wrote in message
news:Io5b6.2150$Qo5.2...@news.uswest.net...
Cactus Bob
pertains to this. The part you mention refers to sheathed cable (as in romex
or BX) and I'm talking about individual wires within the walls that go into
the main panel without benefit of conduit or any clamps. Two of these wires
are insulated and the third one is the bare ground wire. Think of Romex
without the outside sheath.
My experience has been in industrial applications and I know that this
type of setup is considered dangerous and is a definite no-no in the walls
of commercial buildings. However, I am leaving my mind open for the moment
that housing requirements may be less stringent. From what you are saying it
is ok to run loose individual wires in the walls and that meets both the HUD
codes and the NE codes.
I sure didn't have anything like that in my stick house but maybe they
build both stick houses and manufactured housing that way today. My
electrician friend says he stands by what he said because he says the NE
code considers it dangerous to enter a service panel with the sharp edges
against individual wires and nothing to secure the wires except the terminal
on the breaker.
Bob
Augustaga
requirements in the commercial building code that are not in the housing
code...Example is sprinkler systems..There have been many discussions why we
make our work places safer than our homes....It all boils down to
cost....Most commercial building in our area cost $ 125 /ft vs. $ 65/ft site
built and $ 30/ft manufactured...Often we get questions about hurricanes and
less often earthquake questions...We live near the Dept. of Energy's
Savannah River Site...The place where they made Tritium for the H bombs and
Neutron Bombs....They have what they call tornado and earthquake proof
building but the tax payer paid many Billions to build them....news:9Krb6.3977$8v5.5...@news.uswest.net...
K&N
There is something wrong with having exposed wires in the walls with no
protective covering of any kind. Either this was "not done to Code" or if
it was done to Code, then the Code needs to be tightened up.
Augustaga wrote in message ...
Cactus Bob
of the code and I should get is fixed. Further discussion led to the
conclusion that this was the result of the a/c installation which was done
after the home was setup. So, as bad as Clayton may be on some things, this
is not a factory defect. It does point out, however, that manufactured
housing adds that all too often shoddy setup to the experience of buying a
manufactured home. You don't necessarily get what you pay for or maybe you
get some things you didn't pay for and you don't know about it until years
later.
Bob
Augustaga
wrong...Some local governments require separate permit and inspection of the
a/c installations...Of course they should always be installed to code...Most
dealers have an a/c contractor install the air...The installer or dealer
would be required to change this at no charge even past a warranty period...news:inNb6.1946$Ug.3...@news.uswest.net...
Cactus Bob
did when they did the set up. I've patched all the insulation and it is
tight to keep out the critters. I think I'll do this repair myself and I'll
have the comfortable knowledge that it is done right. There are some things
that just aren't worth fighting over.
Bob