Re: How far apart to space blocks under mobile home
Robert Perkis
gregh...@nospam.com wrote:
>
> I'm levelling a mobile home. I know the blocks go under the frame.
> Besides the 4 corners, there are supposed to be stacks in the center.
> How far apart is the recommended spacing?
>
> One other thing. I ws told to use two blocks (double blocks) per
> layer on the corners. Should the middle ones be doubled too, or just
> a single stack?
>
> Thanks
>
> GH
Check with the local building department, if it's in the
code that's how you do it unless you want to do it twice.
Robert Perkis
gregh...@nospam.com wrote:
> No thanks. I DO NOT and WILL NOT have anything to do with government
> officials and inspectors. Where I live they dont inspect anything
> until we contact them, at which point they get nosey and pester the
> shit out of everyone, then raise taxes. I moved to a very secluded
> rural area to escape from political idiots. When I first moved here,
> I was told by local farmers to NEVER contact inspector for anything.
> They said that's only asking for trouble because once they step foot
> on your property they will require concrete bunkers for manure and a
> million other rediculous things.
>
> I wont do anything twice. If anything I'll put too many stacks rather
> than not enough. I'd just like to learn what is recommended. And
> this mobile home is not to be used as a dwelling. Its only going to
> be used for storage anyhow, or on occasion a visitor may stay in it
> for a few weekends in summer. There won't even be heat or water
> supplied to it, and for electric I'll run a temporary extension cord
> from the barn when needed for a few lights. I just want it solid in
> case of wind storms.
>
> If anyone can answer the actual question about spacing the blocks, I'd
> appreciate it.
>
> GH
I didn't tell you to get it inspected, just to find out what
the code is because that's exactly how the manufacturer would
tell you how to do it because it's the code. If you do it to
code and you later have the bad luck of being inspected it
will have been done right. In Florida the code is the link
below, takes to page 5 to get to how it's done, piers spacing
on page 8.
http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/Forms/BMHRV/15C1Finl.pdf
If you're in another state it will likely be different.
RP
John Sisker
news:fu4n26lc5o4mchl1a...@4ax.com...
> I'm levelling a mobile home. I know the blocks go under the frame.
> Besides the 4 corners, there are supposed to be stacks in the center.
> How far apart is the recommended spacing?
>
> One other thing. I ws told to use two blocks (double blocks) per
> layer on the corners. Should the middle ones be doubled too, or just
> a single stack?
>
> Thanks
>
> GH
Obviously, we're not talking California here; blocks were banded years ago
in reference to manufactured/mobile homes and proper setup. Over time, they
have a tendency to crumble. In addition, while some of this still is going
on, one can't simply set up a mobile/manufactured home on land just anywhere
and anyway they want. There are permits and following the proper codes for
the location. Furthermore, the state needs to inspect the home and
foundation, in order to pass it for the occupancy permit.
Now, every once is awhile someone does come across a boot-legged home,
installed without proper permits and/or getting the required inspection.
Beside a pretty big fine, one normally finds that they have to remove it
from the land altogether.
Therefore, that brings us back to a simply question. Just how much more will
it cost to do it right in the first place? On the other hand, if this just
is about replacing things because of time and conditions, your local city
planning department should be able to provide you with the current codes.
John
The Messenger
gregh...@nospam.com wrote:
> On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 18:49:13 -0400, Robert Perkis <rob...@icdus.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> No thanks. I DO NOT and WILL NOT have anything to do with government
> officials and inspectors. Where I live they dont inspect anything
> until we contact them, at which point they get nosey and pester the
> shit out of everyone, then raise taxes. I moved to a very secluded
> rural area to escape from political idiots. When I first moved here,
> I was told by local farmers to NEVER contact inspector for anything.
> They said that's only asking for trouble because once they step foot
> on your property they will require concrete bunkers for manure and a
> million other rediculous things.
>
> I wont do anything twice. If anything I'll put too many stacks rather
> than not enough. I'd just like to learn what is recommended. And
> this mobile home is not to be used as a dwelling. Its only going to
> be used for storage anyhow, or on occasion a visitor may stay in it
> for a few weekends in summer. There won't even be heat or water
> supplied to it, and for electric I'll run a temporary extension cord
> from the barn when needed for a few lights. I just want it solid in
> case of wind storms.
>
> If anyone can answer the actual question about spacing the blocks, I'd
> appreciate it.
>
> GH
I dunno. but if wind is a problem, I would suggest looking into
"Tie-Downs" or some anchor into the ground to keep things from moving
side-ways.
And , you sure have Gummint right. It's easier to ask forgiveness than
permission for just about anything.
We had the Building Gestapo visit and I sent them a letter telling that
the way I understand the Constitution, a building permit requires me to
give testimony that will be used against me. see 5th amendment.
Hey, Good Luck and Happy Holidays.
--
Karma, What a concept!
bi...@metromodularhomes.ca
DO THIS 2 FEET IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE TRAILER AND 2 FEET IN FROM THE BACK AND DIVIDE THE SPACE BETWEEN INT 8 FOOT AREAS AND DO A PIER ON EACH SPOT. IF THE TRAILER DOES NOT MEASURE OUT EXACT, ADJUST ACCORDINGLY. IT IS WISE TO PUT A 6 MIL UV POLY UNDER THE TRAILER TO PREVENT GROUND MOISTUR TO COME THROUGH. I BUY 20 X 100 FOOT ROLL TO DO THE JOB.
bi...@metromodularhomes.ca
Bart...@thebar.com
wrote:
>IF YOU USES BUILDING BLOCKS START WITH USING A 24 X24 PATIO SLAB
UNDERNEATH THEN USE A 16 X 16 PIECE OF PLYWOOD THEN USE 2 8 X 8X 16 INCH
BUILDING BLOCKS SIDE BY SIDE. YOU THEN PUT ANOTHER PIECE OF PLYWOOD ON
TOP OF THE CEMENT BLOCKING PIONT THEN TWO MORE BUILDING BLOCKS SIDE X
SIDE THEN TOP IT OFF WITH 2 PIECES OF 2 X 8 X 16 INCH SIDE BY SIDE WOOD
AND THAT WILL GIVE YOU A COMFORTABLE HEIGHT.
>DO THIS 2 FEET IN FROM THE FRONT OF THE TRAILER AND 2 FEET IN FROM
THE BACK AND DIVIDE THE SPACE BETWEEN INT 8 FOOT AREAS AND DO A PIER ON
EACH SPOT. IF THE TRAILER DOES NOT MEASURE OUT EXACT, ADJUST
ACCORDINGLY. IT IS WISE TO PUT A 6 MIL UV POLY UNDER THE TRAILER TO
PREVENT GROUND MOISTUR TO COME THROUGH. I BUY 20 X 100 FOOT ROLL TO DO
THE JOB.
I have worked on amny trailer homes and have never seen the plywood used
between the blocks. If it was used, it better be pressure treated wood.
Otherwise it will fail in no time. Most trailers are just on concrete
blocks, with 4x4x16 solid blocks under them in contact with the ground.
Any spacing at the top of the blocks, to level the home is either
treated wood, or hardwood shims. Any space over 8 inches should be
another concrete block. In fact I'd use the 4x4x16 solid blocks for any
space larger than 4 inches, but less than 8 inches.
