Alternatively, what are good writing or drawing implements to use to
get a good, bright, permanent image onto blank playing cards?
--
Harlan Messinger
There are no Zs in my actual e-mail address.
Deathsdoor.
Harlan Messinger <zzzhme...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:38370513....@news.erols.com...
good luck.
Sandy
>Have you tried using a fine sand/glass paper on the cards to remove the
>sheen before printing?
>
The thing is that a playing card fnish was what I needed, at least I
thought so, because I want to be able to shuffle and deal these cards.
I tried going with blank index cards, and they were barely usable, so
I decided to seek out the real thing.
>You may also try buying some spray fixative from your local art supply store.
>Artists use this to "fix" the charcoal drawings they do so the drawing does not
>rub off. If have used this with some success. It is a bit trial and error
>though as to how much to spray on.
>
I considered that, but thought that I'd either make the coat so light
that coverage would be poor, or so heavy that it would ruin the
texture of the cards and their handling ability. Since you've dealt
with the trickiness of this procedure and have gotten some
satisfaction, I may give it a try. Thanks!
Andy Leviss -- magkl...@aol.com
Check out my "Look Out World!" lecture and product line:
http://members.aol.com/lookoutwld
Hmmmm...there's a color laser at my office. Maybe I can do my printing
there. Thanks for the resource.
TIA,
Kaj
"Andy" <magkl...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19991121175557...@ng-ch1.aol.com...
It is a water based decal. Very similar to the ones we put on model
airplaines, cars, rockets, etc. as a kid.
I haven't made them myself but I have seen the finished product and it
looks very good.
Best,
Dan-
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Best, Bill Taylor
Anyone?
Kaj
>I'd like to be able to print my own playing cards, using an HP
>Officejet ink jet printer. Does anyone know of playing card stock in
>perforated sheets or sold with some other mechanism for enabling cards
>to be fed through a printer? Important: the finish of the cards has to
>be compatible with the ink. I got some decks of blank Fox Lake cards,
>and the ink from my printer wipes right off of them even after letting
>them sit over night.
>
>Alternatively, what are good writing or drawing implements to use to
>get a good, bright, permanent image onto blank playing cards?
Here's how I do it with a great success rate.
Get some T-shirt printing material for inkjet printers at your office
supply house. The are about $20.00 per package of 10 sheets. That's
enough to make about 250 playing cards if you fill up each sheet
before you print it. You can make around 25 cards per sheet. You'll
also need a deck of blank faced cards that you can get from any magic
dealer.
Take a blank playing card and use very fine sandpaper on the face to
remove the surface sheen from the plastic coating. Just a light
sanding is all that is required. Be thorough and make sure you don't
miss any places. It's critical to the final image.
Using your favorite picture program, make the image you wish to put on
the card in mirror image format. That is, left to right mirroring so
that text is backwards on the screen but not upside down. Make sure it
will fit on a playing card. If you make up 25 at once, make the image
into a 5 by 5 matrix to match your sheet. If not, you will have many
wasted chunks of iron on material. Try and fill it up even with joke
type material so you maximize the material use.
Cut one picture so it is slightly smaller than a playing card and iron
the picture on the card using low heat. Don't overlap the image on the
card. Make sure there is at least 1/16" or 1mm of space around the
image. Also, don't use a soft ironing surface like most ironing
boards. Use a fairly stiff piece of wood covered with one layer of
cloth. That will keep the card from being wrinkled by the heat.
After it cools, spray coat the surface of your playing card with
either Krylon Matte Finish clear coating or Krylon Gloss finish clear
coating. Use matte if you want a roughed surface or one without gloss
and the gloss for shiny cards that resemble the sheen of an ordinary
card.
I recommend only the Krylon brand because after many experiments with
other brands, it was the only one that could take repeated riffle
shuffling and not crack. It remained flexible and coated the card
well.
The finish does two things. It prevents peeling of the iron on
material because you have left a small exposed area around the image
and it makes the image scuff proof. In addition, depending on the
brand of iron on material, it makes the image sharper since it makes
the iron on material transparent.
This method works for photo quality cards or for simple text.
Have fun with this.
Best Always,
Ray
I think you are mistaken. FAKO sheets are rub off dry transfer. These
are printed on a color copier and wet decal. You don't need to transfer
much water to get it on the card. The decal is damp not wet and dries
quickly. I've seen the finished product and they look fantastic.
Any info in appriciated,
-Travis
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Hank Lee's has a slew of them. I saw some in the showroom last night.
Best,
Sandy
Poli...@aol.com
Something entirely unrelated to magic (but I thought this would be a
good place to ask, and it was): Hebrew letters, so I can give my
Hebrew school kids decks of cards to play Concentration with and learn
the letters from.
Thanks for the testimonial!
>Hmmm very interesting, could anybody give out any info regarding this kit? I
>have been looking, but had no luck finding it :o(
>
It's not easy to find! I contacted Hank Lee, and he told me it was
"Custom Playing Cards", currently found in his Back to School Extras
section, which is in turn under the Extras link from his home page.
When I looked for it, it was a bunch of pages in from there, at
http://www.magicfact.com/extras/E999/E999-10.html. An annoying site to
navigate, and this item wasn't in the alphabetic index.