Safe Lock Cleaning
cot...@mindspring.com
and bolt mechanism on a safe? Is the lubrication nothing more than an
squirt of WD-40? If lubrication is necessary, how often should it be
done? What about locks that are 50 years old?
"Keyman"
news:lgj16t86j6eu75n9q...@4ax.com...
Safes really need and should get preventive maintenance.
They do NOT fit the old saying:
"It its not broke, Don't fix it"
If ya wait that long, you might be locked out..
As far as lubing goes,
WD 40 "alone" is a No No.
To properly lube, the pack needs to be taken apart and cleaned.
Then only certain places need to be lubed.
There or other places that should be lubed as well.
I prefer using Lithium (white) Grease.
To save future problems, you should have a trained Safe
Technician
do this for you.
Either call one to come out or remove the door and bring it to
them.
Good Luck
--
"Keyman"
GHardigree
By all means use WD40 and use it often. WD40 = more work for me ! ; o ) WD40
is good job security.
Roger Shoaf
--Shiva-- <shiv...@pcis.net> wrote in message
news:94ca6h$pcr$0...@63.78.119.237...
>
> the bolt work is a different matter.
> I got a bottle one time of something called Safe Slick- a clear
> colorless 'gel' that was made for the bolt work ONLY. It doesnt
> dry out, or flow, etc... also doesnt make your clothes messy if
> it gets on them like the oils etc do.
>
Safe slick is good old Vaseline. The bottle is handy though when it gets
low, just refill by spooning some Vaseline into a plastic bag, snip the
corner and squeeze in in to the bottle. Or plan "B" is to heat a little
glob of the stuff in the microwave and pour it in.
Who ever said you can't put toothpaste back in the tube, never bet me.
--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
Todd
but now for ancient chinese secret. a real good lube can be made at home.go to
the parts store and buy a can of Marvel Mystery Oil
take a jar of Vaseline and put it in a pot on the stove and melt it. add a 1/2
cup or so of mmo and let it resolidify
I guarantee this to be some of the best boltwork lube you have ever used
Todd
Todd
it is just to in depth to learn in a couple of paragraphs
but stay away from wd-40 it just causes problems,as for a 50 year old
lock special attn. needs to be applied due to wear of non replaceable
parts
if you are in the trade take a safe servicing class if not you are best
off hiring a pro its cheaper in the long run
Todd
Charles F. Lewis
are designed, and manufactured with high precision and security
in mind. Whether the wheels are constructed with solid brass or
nylon with brass bushings, they were intended to operate in a
sealed environment (free of dust, dirt and high moisture). The wheels,
dog, latch, bushings, springs and relock should be buffed and DRY.
If the combination lock needs lubrication to operate, YOU NEED A
NEW COMBINATION LOCK INSTALLED.
For combination locks that constructed out of stamped sheet
metal (ie. Sentry) do what you please and when it stops working
jimmy it open with a screw driver and go back to K/WAL/OFFICE Mart
and get another disposable fire box.
For antiques, (parts no longer available) the lock mechanics need
to be removed, cleaned (hydro-sonic preferred) and buffed on a
jeweler's wheel. If too worn, and a high precision machine shop
can't remanufacture the parts, retire the safe from service.
Can also check on the feasibility of retrofitting a modern combination
lock into the old safe.
Just remember, an experienced professional should be used to
service the safe.
GHardigree
>NEW COMBINATION LOCK INSTALLED.
Man ... thats strange. Through the years i have been to a few classes on safe
lock service. The company i worked for thought we should make a showing.
Anyway, each class covered a section on where to lubricate , how much to use
and what type of lub to use. You need to let the mfgs know that their locks
should never be serviced. I am sure Brian Costley of S&G would be glad to know
this as it would save him thousands of mile each year traveled to give classes.
"Keyman"
news:BpNa6.4956$A23....@news6.giganews.com...
> To start off with, combination locks such as MOSLER and S&G
> are designed, and manufactured with high precision and security
> in mind. Whether the wheels are constructed with solid brass
or
> nylon with brass bushings, they were intended to operate in a
> sealed environment (free of dust, dirt and high moisture). The
wheels,
> dog, latch, bushings, springs and relock should be buffed and
DRY.
> If the combination lock needs lubrication to operate, YOU NEED
A
> NEW COMBINATION LOCK INSTALLED.
Well thats the first time I have ever heard that.
Maybe if Safe Locks were, as you state, in a sealed environment
(free of dust, dirt and high moisture)
Havent seen any like that ~!!
-----
"Keyman"
---snip the rest---
Joe Kesselman
should use -- follow the manufacturer's instructions -- but most mfgrs
do say to use one or another lube, (often but not always a dry silicone
microsphere lube applied in liquid or gel form), and always VERY
lightly.
In fact, at least one brand used to advise safemen that "As shipped,
these are really over-lubricated. It's not a bad idea to disassemble and
wipe 'em down before installing."
Remember, the purpose of lubrication is to keep the parts from wearing
out as quickly as much as to promote smooth operation.
However: Standard reminder that safes are a bad thing to experiment
upon. Get it wrong and you're looking at hundreds of dollars to deal
with a lockout. If you don't know, find or hire someone who does.
--
------------------------------------------------------
Joe Kesselman, http://www.lovesong.com/people/keshlam/
Appearing February 10 at Walkabout:
Pete Seeger and Tao Rodrigues -- order in advance!
http://www.WalkaboutClearwater.org/coffeehouse.html
Bob DeWeese
Replacing a safe lock, when all it needs is a good cleaning and lubrication,
borders on dishonest to say the least. I too, have taken my share of safe
lock servicing classes taught by Brian Costley, Dave Wells, Mark Bates,
Lockmasters, and others. ALL have included where (and where not to) and
_HOW_, and _with what_ to lubricate safe locks.
--
Bob De Weese, CML
http://www.bearlock.com
Bear Lock & Security Service, Inc - A full service locksmith company
specializing in professional, cost effective solutions
to your Commercial, Residential, Safe, and Automotive Security Problems.
bb
---------------------------------------------------------------
Charles F. Lewis <cle...@hom.net> wrote in message
news:BpNa6.4956$A23....@news6.giganews.com...
Charles F. Lewis
If the combination lock "NEEDS" lubrication to operate, YOU NEED A
NEW COMBINATION LOCK INSTALLED.
GHardigree
Sir ....... you are either a troll or a person that has no clue as to what you
are talking about. On the other hand...... how about boxing all the locks up
you take off and send them to me.. i will even pay postage !
Joe Kesselman
> Properly cleaned locks don't need lubrication
I'm sorry, but that doesn't turn out to be the case.
Lubrication in machinery essentially serves the same purpose ball
bearings do: it permits two parts to move past each other with reduced
friction, which means both smoother operation and reduced abrasive wear.
If you look at an old safe lock which has not been lubricated in
Entirely Too Long, you may actually see a residue of metal powder
resulting from that wear. Wear eventually produces breakage. Reduced
wear delays breakage. Proper lubrication can reduce wear without
provoking other problems.
There are inappropriate kinds of lubricants, certainly. Generally, any
oil or other lube that remains damp tends to be a Bad Idea in precision
machinery; it has a habit of incorporating dust and turning into mud,
which can yield greater drag (though not necessarily greater wear) than
bare metal on bare metal. That's why you never use oil on a lock
cylinder, though it may be fine on other, larger, parts of the lock
mechanism.
But there are plenty of lubricants these days which don't have that
problem.
> If the combination lock "NEEDS" lubrication to operate, YOU NEED A
> NEW COMBINATION LOCK INSTALLED.
If by that you mean it's nonfunctional until lubricant is applied, I
almost agree. But you may just need the existing one cleaned and
reconditioned. The problem may simply be that some previous bozo decided
to try lubing it with 3-in-1; see above comment re inappropriate
lubricants.
One thing that may be causing confusion: If you can tell that a safe
lock has been lubricated, that generally means there's too much lube.
Manufacturers' instructions -- although not necessarily their practice
on their own production line! -- call for applying a _VERY_ light
coating of the appropriate lubricant. A thin film is all it takes, and
in the case of the silicone microsphere lubes that film is a layer of
dust that may be essentially invisible once the carrier liquid
evaporates away. (Those lubes really _are_ ball bearings, albeit
microscopic ones.)
If you're still in doubt, ask the manufacturers or ask a metallurgist or
ask a mechanical engineer. I'm willing to bet that all three give you
the same answer: Moving parts in close contact need appropriate
lubrication for best service life.
"Keyman"
because you now believe it.
However,
it looks like you are all alone in your opinion.
Guess you think you know more then the Safe Manufactures
themselves.
--
"Keyman"
rems
Sorry, wrong, wrong, wrong.... having spent well over twelve
years working as one of 3 locksmiths covering one and a half million square
miles for Chubb Lock and Safe here in Australia, I can tell you absolutely
categorically that yes, ALL combination locks made by Chubb up to and including
the 1980's and as far as I am aware, still do require regular servicing
and lubrication. I am also aware that Sargent & Greenleaf combination
locks also require regular servicing and lubrication as do all keyless
combination locks that I have ever come in contact with in 32 years in
this game.
rems
roentg...@gmail.com
Either or, few months ago i go to unlock the safe as i was heading out of town to get one of my guns serviced by a friend,when lo and behold, the dial came off in my hand...
To make a longer story just long, i did manage to get it open again by trial and error.
I now have the lock apart and am planning on cleaning it up and reassembling it. From pictures on the S & B site, it appears to be an 8400 model with the twist lock on the dial.
I am fairly well versed with hand tools, and have taken apart a lot of stuff and am confident that I will get it back together correctly. I have it soaking in water, and some dish detergent at the moment as i lack an ultrasonic cleaner. Once i get it good and dry, can someone tell me roughly where and what to use? Please do be specific, it had a yellowish brown waxy grease in it when i opened it up. Any advice and suggestions greatly appreciated. Will even give my number to anyone willing to talk me through it and compensate for your time.
Thanks in advance,
Aaron R.
Stormin Mormon
use the most tiny bit of petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
on the center shaft, where the wheels rotated. I
used to clean the wheels and shaft with a bit of
WD-40 and cotton swabs.
Do you possibly mean S and G, for Sargeant and
Greenleaf?
When you get this all back together, please try the
combination at least three times with the door open.
Once you close the door, you're in trouble if the
lock doesn't work.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Jay Hennigan
I think you mean S & G unless you're dealing with a knockoff clone
product, in which case junk it and get an S&G lock.
> I now have the lock apart and am planning on cleaning it up and reassembling it. From pictures on the S & B site, it appears to be an 8400 model with the twist lock on the dial.
> I am fairly well versed with hand tools, and have taken apart a lot of stuff and am confident that I will get it back together correctly. I have it soaking in water, and some dish detergent at the moment as i lack an ultrasonic cleaner. Once i get it good and dry, can someone tell me roughly where and what to use? Please do be specific, it had a yellowish brown waxy grease in it when i opened it up. Any advice and suggestions greatly appreciated. Will even give my number to anyone willing to talk me through it and compensate for your time.
Lubriplate, just a little on the shafts and bolt. Apply with a
toothpick, you want very little lubricant, only on sliding and rotary
surfaces. Nothing on the outside of the wheels or the business end of
the fence.
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/MC-8400.php
http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/troubleshoot/index.php?type=lubricants
Jay Hennigan
After you get it back together and reassembled on the safe, lock and
unlock the mechanism with the combination at least ten times with the
door open before closing it.
It is FAR easier to repair a problem with the safe door open than it is
with it locked closed.
roentg...@gmail.com
Thanks for the tips, any idea where I can get that specialty lube? Am up in Canada, am sure it'll be hard to find here.
edwins...@gmail.com
> Yes, S & G sorry - typing on a phone sucks with big thumbs lol.
>
> Thanks for the tips, any idea where I can get that specialty lube? Am up in Canada, am sure it'll be hard to find here.
Edwin Patterson
Brothers Lock & Safe