Problem with lock in a Therma-tru type door

[Ted Swirsky]

I went to service a door with a multi point locking system. His key
suddenly turns 180 instead of 360 and he can't extend the bolt from the
outside with the key and keep it extended because he now has to turn the
key back 180 to remove it. This retracts the bolt.

Does anyone have any experience with these type doors or know what might
be causing this problem?

More details...

I've heard of Thermo-tru but the customer was pretty sure it was a
ThermoGuard door and said he thinks they went out of business.

I just spoke to Thermo-tru cust service and he claimed their keys rotate
about 120 to lock then 120 back to remove the key. This isn't the same as
the door I saw although I just worked on a Thermo-tru door last week (I
see maybe 1 a decade - what are the chances of that?) and they worked very
much the same although the Thermo-Tru did have a little latch you had to
activate to remove the cyl and this one did not.

This door uses the Euro low profile cylinder in a mortise lock and you
have to pull up on the handle to extend locking bolts on the edge of the
lock edge of the door. There is one on the upper edge and one on the lower
edge. These extend into holes in the jamb above and below where a normal
deadbolt bolt would extend.

There is also a thin, square bolt (maybe 1 x 1 x 1/4 inches) that extends
using the key. As I said, something is now preventing the key from turning
360.

I removed the cylinder and it looked fine. There is a long, metal plate on
the edge of the door from top to bottom held on with about 20 screws. This
must cover the connected locking bolts and it must also be removed to
remove the entire mortise lock.

I didn't want to start taking it apart without some research for fear
things would fall out and I wouldn't be able to get it back together.

Any thoughts, comments, ideas, guesses would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Stormin Mormon]

Sounds a lot like Schlage deadbolts of olde.

See if there is a swivel tail piece at the back of the cylinder. If there
is, dissemble the thing and grease where the tailpiece fits in.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

"Ted Swirsky" <Ted...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:op.s2y76wxmrwebfy@oemcomputer...

[Roger Shoaf]

Here is how I would approach the problem. First, see how the lock works
with the door open. This will isloalte any alignment problems from lock
problems. Assuming the lock is not working properly, then you need to find
out why. This will probably require taking the lock out of the door.

Once you have the lock in hand discnect the upper and lower rods, and try
the lock without them. This should tell you if the lock is the problem or
the secondary bolts.

If the lock is still not functioning, now open it up. Hopefully the probem
can be found and resolved without having to find parts.

Good luck.

--
Roger Shoaf

If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?

"Ted Swirsky" <Ted...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:op.s2y76wxmrwebfy@oemcomputer...

[tswi...@hotmail.com]

Sorry. I should have mentioned the lock was tested with the door open
so the bolts are not binding in the holes.

The BIG questions is if anyone has ever taken the long metal plate off
the edge of the door and if it's easy to take apart or is the entire
thing going to fall out in a mess that can't be put back together again
without the instructions.

Good idea about the camera, but I was wondering if anyone knew anything
about the job of taking it apart BEFORE I started.

Ted

[tswi...@hotmail.com]

No tailpiece. Low profile euro cyl with the 'tailpiece' in the center
of the cyl.

The lock was tested with the door open so the bolts are not binding in

the holes.
The BIG questions is if anyone has ever taken the long metal plate off
the edge of the door and if it's easy to take apart or is the entire
thing going to fall out in a mess that can't be put back together again
without the instructions.

Ted

[Ted Swirsky]

I never said it works with the door opened. I said the lock was TESTED
with the door open.
It was not the cylinder. It was not a binding problem.

The guy called again this morning to ask me to take it apart all the way
and he would accept the risk of things getting worse.

While examining the mortise lock, a little piece of metal fell out. It
obviously broke off from somewhere and was blocking the tailpiece from
turning all the way. I did a few things (boring unless you really want to
know) and now it works.

The answer to my original main question is No, it's not a problem to take
the metal bar off and remove the linkages to the additional bolts.

But don't ever ask me to rekey those euro cyls with the grey plastic caps.
I don't know why, but they cause me the worst problems.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Ted

On Mon, 09 Jan 2006 09:20:36 -0500, --Shiva-- <not...@abuse.net> wrote:

> On 8 Jan 2006 18:29:48 -0800, you wrote:
>
>> The lock was tested with the door open so the bolts are not binding in
>> the holes.
>> The BIG questions is if anyone has ever taken the long metal plate off
>> the edge of the door and if it's easy to take apart or is the entire
>> thing going to fall out in a mess that can't be put back together again
>> without the instructions.
>>
>> Ted

> ok, it works OPEN, bolts and all, key turns easy.,,
> then its the door FRAME problem..
> 1/16" WILL totally screw you over on these, there is no room for
> sag. in fact it dont even take the 1/16.. less will foul it up
> --Shiva--
>

[tcst...@gmail.com]

Hi, I just took the long metal strip off and didn't have any issues. However, I can't figure out how to completely remove the cylinder from the door. Any help?