moving a gun safe
Stephen J. Kimmel
Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
the answer to this.
What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
Thanks.
--
Steve Kimmel ski...@crl.com
Phoenix, Arizona
Henry E Schaffer
In article <5hr3mc$g...@xring.cs.umd.edu> ski...@crl.com (Stephen J. Kimmel) writes:
> ...
>What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
>type.
Most of these that I've seen have a removable door. Typically it
lifts off. This can make a big difference in moving, since in this
weight range dividing it into pieces makes a big difference. The door
is heavier gauge metal and so is heavier than the square footage would
indicate.
>The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
>(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
>and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
The 3' vertical movements are a problem, but there is equipment which
can help. Don't underestimate the value of ramps for this. You can
rent metal truck loading ramps - or construct ramps from wood.
>Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
>a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
Yes - also many moving companies will rent equipment to do-it-yourself
movers.
>a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
Yes - but separating the door makes a significant difference. Also
you have room for multiple dollies - and then almost any winch can get
this weight up and down a ramp.
There are a variety of "hand truck" types of equipment which will work
with multi-hundred pound loads. Some of them have motorized lift
capability - which can be used on vertical travel or on ramps.
>sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
>how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
>and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
The threshold can be handled via a stair-step approach, or with a
minimal ramp.
--
--henry schaffer
h...@ncsu.edu
br...@alr.com
ski...@crl.com (Stephen J. Kimmel) wrote:
>Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
>the answer to this.
>What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
>type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
>(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
>and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
>Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
>a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
>a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
>sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
>how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
>and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
>Thanks.
>--
>Steve Kimmel ski...@crl.com
>Phoenix, Arizona
Just did it: Dealer will put safe in your truck.
Rent a good appliance hand-truck/dolly. Hire two
or three (preferred) grunts to help. When unloading,
remove tailgate from truck (chevy's are easy), cover back of
truck with your choice of cardboard/carpet, slide save out
and down onto cardboard covered dolly. Remove door to safe;
most lift off when open. this should lighten load about 200#.
Strap safe to dolly. roll (with lotsa help) into place. In case of
high thresholds, build a simple ramp out of plywood and 2X4's.
Rolling the save up even a crude ramp is better than the dead lift.
Voila.
Don Porter
Stephen J. Kimmel wrote:
>
> Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
> the answer to this.
> What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
> type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
> (3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
> and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
>
> Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
> a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
> a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
>
> sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
> how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
> and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
>
I've moved my similarly sized safe several times now as a result of the
earthquake. My advice is don't try it yourself. A professional safe
mover uses a hydraulic tailgate on his truck and a special moving dolly.
They also include bolting your safe to the cement floor at the
destination. This service costs about $125 and is worth it in IMHO. They
will pickup at the store and delivery to your home. Most shops that sell
safes also have contacts with a safe mover or two. Also, be aware of the
possibility of gas or water pipes in the cement slab before you drill.
aa-2@no_spam.deltanet.com@deltanet.com
In <5hrbk9$p...@uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu>, h...@eos.ncsu.edu (Henry E Schaffer) writes:
>In article <5hr3mc$g...@xring.cs.umd.edu> ski...@crl.com (Stephen J. Kimmel) writes:
>> ...
>>type.
>
>lifts off. This can make a big difference in moving, since in this
>weight range dividing it into pieces makes a big difference. The door
>is heavier gauge metal and so is heavier than the square footage would
>indicate.
>
>>(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
>>and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
Yes, pulling the door can make a big difference. It's common practice
for moving the really high security safes into office buildings, since
the safe often exceeds the weight rating of the elevator.
A truck with a lift gate may be useful for getting the safe off the truck...
Rollers are the standard way to move a safe along a flat floor.
The other standard tool of the safe-movers trade is a long pry bar
(at least 6 feet long) with a small wheel very close to one end.
But seriously, if you're buying a safe from a dealer, have the dealer
deliver it. Safe moving can be dangerous work. By the time you
rent a suitable truck, find a pry bar, build a ramp, and so on, I think
you'll find you aren't really saving any money by doing it yourself.
Especially if you figure in the doctor bills for the smashed fingers
and toes. You can also watch the safe movers work, and decide
whether you want to try moving it yourself when you move to a new
home.
If for some reason your dealer won't deliver, check around for moving
companies that specialize in moving heavy equipment such as big
machine tools. They have really neat trucks and all the right tools,
and some of these companies do safe moving on a regular basis.
wa4...@cris.com
ski...@crl.com (Stephen J. Kimmel) wrote:
>Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
>the answer to this.
>What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
>type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
>(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
>and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
>Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
>a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
>a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
>sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
>how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
>and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
>Thanks.
>--
>Steve Kimmel ski...@crl.com
>Phoenix, Arizona
One of the guys at work rented an engine hoist and wide heavy duty
nylon straps to move his safe. Took the safe off his truck and moved
it into his father's basement without any major difficulties. He did
have some help from his father.
jim
hailm...@aol.com
>Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
>the answer to this.
>What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
>type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
>(3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
>and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
>
>Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
>a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
>a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
>
>sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
>how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
>and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
>
>Thanks.
There's two ways you can do this.
#1) The way I would do it. Hire someone else to deliver it and set it up. I found one place in Zionsville, Indiana, that would deliver and set it up for me at Belvidere, Illinois. $70 total. Of
course I would have to buy the safe from them as well. If you want the name and address of the company.Just E-Mail me for it.
#2) Take 3 or 4 strong husky guys and a heavy duty dolly. A refrigerator dolly comes to mind, but that may be too light. There's a possibility you will have to pay the guys and/or buy them some cases
of beer. Actually, getting it in and out of a truck is the easy part. Just slide it out until you reach the pivot point and while keeping it from sliding out much further. Just lift the end that is
still in the truck. But, watch out for it sliding out and doing damage to the concrete or something with flesh on it. Don't worry about damaging the safe. If it does fall and springs pops the door
open or splits a seam. I would rather find this out now than later.
BTW, this is a Locksmithing matter, as Locksmiths sell and deliver safes. It's also a gun matter, as you will be keeping guns in there.
Bill
Freedom First!
The law second.
Willie Schmit, CRL
Stephen J. Kimmel wrote:
>
> Although not strictly a locksmithing question, people here probably know
> the answer to this.
> What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
> type. The goal is to get it into a truck (at the dealer), out of the truck
> (3' off the garage floor) accross the garage floor, over a 4" threshold
> and then accross about 7' of cement floor to the final resting place.
>
> Are there jacks or lifts that could be rented (that one would find in
> a well appointed rental store) that would make the job easier? Seems
> a little heavy for your typical refrigerator dolly.
>
> sections of gas pipe could be used to move it over flat cement floor but
> how would you lower it from the back of the truck to the cement floor
> and then how to get it over the 4" threshold.
>
> Thanks.
I have moved lots of safes - THE tool to use is a KNEELING trailer
You can load or unload real heavy stuf anywhere from the ground to dock
level - transport it too. The other tool you need is a pair of
ROLL-A-LIFTS - they can lift and roll tons - I was on a crew of guys once
that lifted and moved 3 semiconductor polishers weighing 21000 lbs each
and moved them to within 1 mm of where they needed to be - (while wearing
clean room bunny suits) you will only need 2 of em -- third tool you will
need is a BADGER BAR - some people call it a Johnson bar - it is a heavy
wooden bar with a tiny lip and two wheels - lotsa leverage - use it to
get it onto and off of the roll-a-lifts -- MOST IMPORTANT - YOU NEED 3
GUYS - ONE OF WHICH HAS DONE THIS QUITE A FEW TIMES - THE OTHER TWO
SHOULD BE SMART AND HOPEFULLY STRONG (but smart is better) AND THEY HAVE
TO FOLLOW ORDERS OF THE GUY THAT KNOWS WHAT HE IS DOING !
sorry to yell - but its important!
jk...@watson.ibm.com
In <5hs6aa$1qr$1...@news04.deltanet.com>, aa-2@no_spam.deltanet.com@deltanet.com writes:
>In <5hrbk9$p...@uni00nw.unity.ncsu.edu>, h...@eos.ncsu.edu (Henry E Schaffer) writes:
>>> ...
>>>What is the best way to move a 900-1000lb gun safe? It's the 30w"X60h"X25"d
>>>type.
There are also gadgets which provide a pair of wheels each, together with a
hydraulic lift. Strap 'em on each side, pump up the jack to raise each side onto
the wheels, roll.
It may be possible to rent the tools that will make this possible (if not easy).
I do think it's worth asking how much the safe dealer (or any experienced
safe dealer, if you're buying it second-hand) wants before you decide that
doing it yourself makes sense. Take it from someone who helps lift a piano
onto and off a stage several times a year -- and who was once stuck trying
to hold one end of it all by himself after a leg collapsed (felt like
a minute, was probably only ten seconds -- luckily I was in a good position
and others were still there to take it before I gave out), heavy things are
a _good_ way to hurt yourself if you don't know what you're doing.
Another question to consider: Have you made sure that the floor that
will be supporting this load is strong enough to take it? That ALL the floors
along its route likewise meet that requirement?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Joe Kesselman, Team OS/2 member (acronym: "We're Staying Topmost!")
Folkies and filkers: More info at http://pages.prodigy.com/keshlam
loc...@aol.com
A nifty hand truck frequently used in large soda vending machine moving called a
stair crawler is the bes way to move your safe. A model made by electrolift in NY
I believe will do fine. They require an investment of $2000.00. I might suggest that if
you have a large tree or over hang that will support the weight use a chain fall. As for
rolling it in I would strongly recommend NOT removing the door, however pin the relocker to avoid a costly opening in the event of a accident. The door is approx
1/3 the weight of the safe and is awkward to deal with by it's self. At that weight the
only thing you will find suitable in a rental store is roll a lifts. They are awkard to work
with in other than smooth roll ins. Electric hand trucks require an in vestment in
education to operate them. Rigging can kill. Please evaluate the other comments
that recommend you use a professional rigger. If you must move it your self, tip it in
to the truck and then slide it out of the truck. Rollers under plywood will help preserve
the finish in the loading/unloading process. Use a chain fall secured to the front of the vehical otherwise the safe will kick out and fall on your friends. Drive carefully and at low speeds. If you
can rent a lowboy trailer you"ll do better.
loc...@aol.com
"Children are entitled to see their father"
---------- Areas Of Intrest For Child Custody / Visitation Info -------------
(http//:www.fathers-rights.com)
(Fathers United 301-927-7638 SS Md no website)
Mickey McInnis
Every time this question comes up, My mind keeps toying with the idea of
some sort of "air bearing" scheme for this. Put something like an
air hockey table under the safe and put some smooth sheets on the floor
and slide the safe on the sheets. A skirt around the edge of the
safe might also do the trick. (Sort of a HoverSafe, like a hovercraft.)
Given a safe with a 2 by 3 foot footprint, 1 psi would give you 800 lbs
lift. I just wonder how practical it is to build such a gadget and
how practical the pump required would be.
Of course, you'd want to be careful that you didn't do too good a job and
the safe goes sliding down the hallway on its own with zero friction.
Maybe a friction-fit air hose coupling that will pull out and a short
air hose would keep the thing from going too far before it loses air and
stops.
It would also be difficult to use this on anything but a flat floor, i.e.
no steps, even small ones, no raised door jambs.
I seem to recall seeing some sort of description of such a gadget at one
time for moving large items, but I'm not sure.
I also wonder if you couldn't do something similar with a big Teflon pad
under the safe and some sort of surface for the pad to slide on.
--
Mickey McInnis - mci...@austin.ibm.com
--
All opinions expressed are my own opinions, not my company's opinions.
Willie Schmit, CRL
loc...@aol.com wrote:
>
> A nifty hand truck frequently used in large soda vending machine moving called a
> stair crawler is the bes way to move your safe. A model made by electrolift in NY
> I believe will do fine. They require an investment of $2000.00. I might suggest that if
> you have a large tree or over hang that will support the weight use a chain fall. As for
> rolling it in I would strongly recommend NOT removing the door, however pin the relocker to avoid a costly opening in the event of a accident.
The door is appr
> only thing you will find suitable in a rental store is roll a lifts. They are awkard to work
> with in other than smooth roll ins. Electric hand trucks require an in vestment in
> education to operate them. Rigging can kill. Please evaluate the other comments
> that recommend you use a professional rigger. If you must move it your self, tip it in
> to the truck and then slide it out of the truck. Rollers under plywood will help preserve
> the finish in the loading/unloading process. Use a chain fall secured to the front of the vehical otherwise the safe will kick out and fall on
your friends. D
> loc...@aol.com
SAFETY FIRST - SAFETY STARTS WITH EXPERIENCE
I remember (while living in Chicago)one of our locksmiths reported seeing
a safe lying in the road - he got on the radio - 10 minutes later 4 of
our trucks converged on the scene. 15 minutes later it was loaded up and
on the way back to the shop (only 10 blocks away). 10 minutes after that
- everybody was looking for Jim - Jim rolled up in back of the shop with
the side door of the astro van in the back of the van. A couple of our
customers were calling - seems that there was a safe in the intersection
of Clark and Diversey - they all wanted to know if it was worth something
- will we open it - and split the take.
A safe that is unsecured will go thru the side of a truck like it was
spit out like a watermellon seed! PLEASE THINK before you move anything!
aa-2@no_spam.deltanet.com@deltanet.com
In <5i1dk9$o2m$1...@ausnews.austin.ibm.com>, mci...@austin.ibm.com (Mickey McInnis) writes:
>
>Every time this question comes up, My mind keeps toying with the idea of
>some sort of "air bearing" scheme for this. Put something like an
>air hockey table under the safe and put some smooth sheets on the floor
>and slide the safe on the sheets. A skirt around the edge of the
>safe might also do the trick. (Sort of a HoverSafe, like a hovercraft.)
It's been done already. Lockmasters sells such a product. I believe
they named it a "Liftmaster." Of course, you still have to get the
safe on and off the truck and onto the Liftmaster. I've never seen
one of these in operation, and I forget the details of how it works.
Willie Schmit, CRL
I have seen them used when I was a rigger (building clean rooms for
intel) They work great if you are in the right conditions - friction -
yep it can be a killer or a savior. I find the ROLL-A-LIFTS to have the
friction needed to keep a load from getting out of control.