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deadbolt removal

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Robert Scroggs

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Oct 7, 2002, 5:01:52 PM10/7/02
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I'm hoping someone can help me here. I just bought an older house (1953)
with an add-on room (1978). I have gone around to all of the doors to
replace the old doorknobs and deadbolts with new ones. Everything has gone
beautifully with one exception. On the French doors in the add-on room,
there is a deadbolt which I cannot figure out how to remove. It is not
mounted to the door using screws or any other visible means.

Are there many possible secrets to removing this lock, or is it a fairly
standard operation that I could do myself?

Any help would be....uh...helpful. :-)

Thank you
Robert

LJ

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Oct 7, 2002, 7:57:21 PM10/7/02
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Can't remember the name of the deadbolt, but one I worked on was a
jimmy resistant vertical rod type....... you need a working key, and
when the key is turned either left or right it will expose a couple of
screws which will allow removal - LJ

Gary

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Oct 7, 2002, 10:22:18 PM10/7/02
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Look on the face of the dead bolt itself. (the part that goes into the door
frame) There should be a name on it. With that name it would be easier to
tell you how to remove it. Otherwise it would just be a series of educated
guesses.

Gary

Bob DeWeese

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Oct 7, 2002, 11:26:59 PM10/7/02
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Is it round on the inside and outside of the door, just like most other
deadbolts except there are no mounting screws on the inside cylinder? If
so, it's probably a Lori (now Ilco) deadbolt. Look at the edge of the door.
If it has a round faced (drive-in) bolt you'll see a little hole at 3:00 and
at 9:00. Through those holes you can access the set screws that prevent you
from unscrewing the mortise cylinders. You'll need an extra long alan
wrench (one comes in the box. with each lock). The kind in a "jack-knife"
type set will be too short.

If the bolt has a rectangular face plate, you'll need to remove that to
access the holes.

Unscrew the set screws about four turns (not all the way out). Then place
the key half way into the cylinder and unscrew the cylinders by turning the
partially inserted key counter-clockwise.


Hope this helps

Bobby

--
Bob De Weese, CML
bo...@bearlock.com
http://www.bearlock.com

Bear Lock & Security Service, Inc - A full service locksmith company
specializing in professional, cost effective solutions to your Commercial,
Residential, Safe, and Automotive Security Problems.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Scroggs <scr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
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Robert Scroggs

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Oct 10, 2002, 10:13:55 AM10/10/02
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Thank you (all of you who have submitted some advice).

The name on the face is Amerock. From my web research, they stopped making
locks "many years ago." I have tried removing that face plate. I removed the
two screws and tried to pry it off. It would not budge with what I thought
was a reasonable amount of force. Since I'm getting rid of the lock anyway,
I may try forcing it a bit more tonight.

Looking again at the indoor side of the lock, I have discovered that there
are two small holes. I've read that these holes are generally around 9
o'clock and 3 o'clock, but the holes on this lock are actually closer to 2
and 10. My understanding is that turning the key about a quarter of a turn
will most likely expose screws in these holes or release the bolt and face
plate around the bolt for further disassembly. Of course, that brings up
another problem. The previous owner of the house does not know where the key
is for that lock, so I don't have a copy of the key.

It's looking more and more like I need to call an actual locksmith rather
than continue trying to remove the lock myself.

Thanks again for your help. If you have further advice, I'd appreciate it.

Robert

"Keyman"

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Oct 10, 2002, 11:52:33 AM10/10/02
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"Robert Scroggs" <scr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:B9CAF553.1CD%scr...@ix.netcom.com...

> It's looking more and more like I need to call an actual
locksmith rather
> than continue trying to remove the lock myself.
>
> Thanks again for your help. If you have further advice, I'd
appreciate it.
>
> Robert
>

good idea Robert.
you have a good chance of screwing up your door if you try and
force it off.
which will cost ya more $$$ to repair.

my2
--
"Keyman"

Roger Shoaf

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Oct 10, 2002, 11:18:29 PM10/10/02
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"Robert Scroggs" <scr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:B9CAF553.1CD%scr...@ix.netcom.com...

If you want to scrap the lock anyway, you can drill through the rotating
plate and remove the screws. If this is on an exterior gate you might want
to have some penetrating oil to loosen the rusted screws.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.


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