Gardall Safe - For fun
Umbrae
First off - apologies if I come off as completely ignorant. Honestly,
it's because I probably am.
I recently moved into a new apartment, and in the apartment they left
a safe that they couldn't move - I guess nobody has used it for a
quite a while, and they don't know the combination. I asked if I could
try my hand at figuring it out, and they said to go nuts. So I figured
I'd make it a little project of mine. ;)
My question is twofold, one general, one specific. The specific
question first:
It's a "gardall" brand safe, looks to be maybe 25 years old at most -
about a 2 foot cube. On the front is a sticker, that says "S- 366193"
- does this have anything to do with the combination? I tried using
36-61-93, but that just seemed far too easy, and alas, it didn't work.
Does this sticker have any relevance?
Second question: I know I could probably call someone and have them
see if they could get into it. But I don't really want to do that -
this is for fun, not really anything else. Where can I learn more
about safecracking in general? I'm a puzzle solver by nature, so even
if I can't get it open, it seems like a fun project either way.
Thanks all for bearing with an insufferable novice.
-Umbrae
Django Bijlsma
locks
can be found on crypto.com, Matt Blaze's cryptography resource
http://www.crypto.com/papers/safelocks.pdf
Greetz,
deciBell.
"Umbrae" <umb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170387516.7...@q2g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
BogusID
See if you can identify the safe model, and then contact Gardall with the
serial number?
Having more knowledge about the safe, might improve your chances of solving
the puzzle.
<http://www.gardall.com/page-safeFinder.htm>
<http://www.gardall.com/downloads/Gardall_2005_Catalog.pdf>
Stormin Mormon
about what it's worth. And then call a couple lock and safe guys,
and get estimates on opening it. The couple of Gardall I've
worked with were fairly straight forward, and might be able to be
opened without damage.
Locksmiths don't give out information about opening things.
Though some members of the public read this group, and aren't
bound by the same ethical standards that locksmiths are.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Umbrae" <umb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170387516.7...@q2g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Umbrae
&spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Locksmiths don't give out information about opening things.
> Though some members of the public read this group, and aren't
> bound by the same ethical standards that locksmiths are.
>
I can understand that you don't like to publicly disclose information
about your trade - an understandable security risk. I'd be willing to
go through official channels. Are classes provided in most metro
areas? (I'm in brooklyn) I'm just not sure how one even gets into the
trade at all.
Stormin Mormon
regulated. You will likely have to call several government
offices to find the one who tells you which government office
(one you already called) supplies the information.
In my case, I apprenticed with another locksmith to learn the
trade for about 50 cents over the minimum wage. Until I learned
enough to go into my own business. Safe cracking typically takes
a couple years to learn.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Umbrae" <umb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1170429385....@v33g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
Punch Job
Your Gardall safe prolly has an S&G 6730 mounted VD. You don't bother to say
where the freakin handle is. If it's mounted vertical down the drill point
is at 72X1. That means 0 the dial and the DP is 1" out from spindle center
in line with 72. There is prolly hardplate. 6730 isn't manipulation
resistant. Post a picture of the thing or a really good description if you
want more info.
Umbrae
I'm pretty sure it's the 1612/2 from this link, although it's a little
difficult to detect size.
DB
<m...@notanywhere.net> wrote in message
news:qk27s211t0v0to03v...@4ax.com...
> On 2 Feb 2007 07:16:26 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>Are classes provided in most metro
>>areas? (I'm in brooklyn) I'm just not sure how one even gets into the
>>trade at all.
>
Everybody always says this and I have no idea why. Fact is doing safes is
cheaper, waaay cheaper than trying to do a significant portion of the
transponder cars now on the road. The same scope and drill rig will open a
large number of safes made decades apart by hundreds of manufacturers. The
key to safe work is good information and knowing exactly what you are going
to do before you try to do it. When you get in trouble is when you try to
use 3 7 grand tools without spending the couple grand first on good books so
you know what you are dealing with.With good accurate info you can almost
always do without the latest greatest tool. Not so the other way around.
> I need to add 3 tools to my 'supply' currently and those 3 will
> run $7+ grand
> and then there is 2 more that I would have as useful AND the only
> ones in my area, and they are close to $14 grand for the 2.
>
> --Shiva--
>
>
Punch Job
http://gardall.com/page-products-safeType-UL_2hr.htm
Ya got some options
Look for a combo. Look on the front of the safe the side of the safe the
back of the safe shelves near the safe under the corner of the carpet near
the safe on top of doors near the safe, wharever, you're there I ain't. most
people can barely remember their own names they write down combos and
computer passwords. The smart ones use an offset. Maybe you already noticed
most people aren't all that smart.
You can manipulate it. somebody already gave you a good link on how thats
done so no point goin through it all here. Learn how to do that right and
you will be able to do something 9 out of 10 locksmiths can't that's for
damn sure.
You can drill through the front at 72X1 which means you will have to pop the
dial and drill through the door including the hardplate. You can prolly do
it on this one with a masonary bit but a bit for hardplate drilling like
strongarm would be better. Bosche makes a good carbide bit for steel
drilling and it's commercially available without knowing a secret handshake
or the other BS some suppliers will put ya through for strongarm. Others
don't but if I post the names here the locksmiths will go nuts and start
emailing them and prolly they won't sell to you then either. Anyway drill
with a HS bit till you hit hard plate and it stops going. You'll know cause
it'll stop working and you'll start cussing the fucking thing. Then drill
with the carbide till you are through the plate. Then switch back to HS or
cobalt and drill through the door and into the lock case but stop before ya
hit the wheels. This will give you a view right under the fence line up the
gates by sight or with a feeler pick and open the thing.
You can side drill. Prolly no hard plate from the side. Coming in inline
with either 69 or 75 will give ya a veiw looking down on the fence just
enough to either side that it won't block your view. If you hit a bolt or
anything else you can vary this point and transfer your readings. You will
prolly need a scope but an otoscope like docs and vets use might do it.
Source is any good pet supply or feed store cost about $100. You can easily
line up the wheels under the fence in a couple trys. Drill at about 3 1/2"
back from the front on the side of the safe. You'll go through the side,
through the door, into the door cavity and through the lock case. Don't hit
the wheels or you'll hate life.
Top drill it 3 1/2" back from front inline with the index mark. Scope the
wheels and transfer 28 numbers left. Don't hit the freakin wheels or you'll
hate life.
Top drill sraight down inline with 92 and you will have a good view of the
wheels as they approach and pass the fence. Hard to fuck this one up. Lots
of clearance to the wheel pack.
Scope the change key hole. Drill about 4 inches back from side or top and
look through the change key hole to read the wheels. Practice this on a
loose lock first. They're cheap and ebay is littered with 'em. On a VD
mounted 6730 the change hole is .5" up and .5" right of spindle center. You
need a scope that can view 90 deg to do it this way. This is real clean if
you're gonna fix the safe. Just plug one hole no damage to lock or dial.
Don't try to punch the lock bolt or the spindle or you'll set off a
relocker.
Michael Navarre
magnetic base drill setup.
Oh by the way...try a masonry bit for the "hard plate".
Slow and Steady wins the race . And um...The information is key where to
drill points are... in a pinch maybe you could "F" the thing up with a
angle grinder with a nice cutting wheel where the locks bolt is, then clean
'er up with bondo and nice (grey ?) paint.
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Steve
"Michael Navarre" <mike_n...@midmaine.com> wrote in message
news:1170812...@sp6iad.superfeed.net...
> A Nice piece of chain, lever and good quality drill are more useful then a
> magnetic base drill setup.
Not really.
>
> Oh by the way...try a masonry bit for the "hard plate".
Try that on maxalloy or relsom, or ball bearings.
>
> Slow and Steady wins the race . And um...The information is key where to
> drill points are... in a pinch maybe you could "F" the thing up with a
> angle grinder with a nice cutting wheel where the locks bolt is, then
clean
> 'er up with bondo and nice (grey ?) paint.
If you know where the bolt is then you know the handing of the lock and if
you know the handing of the lock you should know the drop in.