I found that this particular item was a Weslock "Eleganti", and that it was
still being made. There didn't appear to be any local Weslock merchants after
an enquiry on the Weslock web site, so I ordered it online and received it
promptly.
I've just found out the hard way that it won't work - I'm quite sober when I
report that my door has a 2 1/2" backset! Thus neither the 2 3/8 nor 2 3/4
options of the replacement unit will fit.
Is there something I can do short of plugging and redrilling the door?
Art
Good Luck,
Roger
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Arthur Shapiro" <arthur...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:WUfIj.24954$6J3....@newsfe13.phx...
Guess I'll work up the courage to cut a router template, hot-melt it to the
door, and "move" the hole an eighth inch. With luck, I'll do it by the end
of summer!
This sounds like a small enough amount to simply fill the exposed side with
Bondo or patching compound and paint it.
Art
install a lock
http://www.rbadoor.com/door_install_a_lock.html
you can get them at Lowes or Home-Depot
or
your local locksmith shop...
g'luck
--
'Key
=====
there are other options SM.
http://www.rbadoor.com/door_install_a_lock.html
why would you even give advice that would leave the latch
where it "Won't fully engage" ?
sometimes I wonder about you !!!!!!!!
--
'Key
=====
that would defiantly be the HARD way to accomplish your
goal.
again, check out this link...
http://www.rbadoor.com/door_install_a_lock.html
Isn't that the sort of thing one puts on an exterior door where security
issues might need to trump aesthetics?
Art
Your best bet is to use a door re-enforcer like key linked to below IF the
door is in good shape or good quality etc. If the door is the typical piece
of crap hollow core junk as used in millions of homes all across America and
has seen much wear and tear it may well just be easier in the long run to
toss it and replace it with a new slab. That way it will at least look good
and (maybe) match the doors in the rest of the house, which could be good or
bad depending on how ugly they are or aren't.
Making it look attractive is probably going to cost more in time alone than
the average interior door is worth. WAY more. Door slabs are cheap. Unless
there is something special about the door replace it with a new one and be
done with it.
yep, I agree...
cheaper too....
--
'Key
=====
you are correct about the looks but,
I have seen them on interior doors and they are one
solution.
granted they were on commercial property.
> Isn't that the sort of thing one puts on an exterior door
> where security
> issues might need to trump aesthetics?
>
> Art
you are partially correct but they are also used to cover up
flaws.
usually from an attempted break in or a bundled
installation.
cheaper then replacing doors..
I personally think that they do not add very much to the
security.
my2ยข
--
'Key
=====
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"'Key" <K...@Ya.Net> wrote in message
news:mM6dnVdZlKrLP2_a...@comcast.com...
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"'Key" <K...@Ya.Net> wrote in message
news:0aednbv1NfCPZm_a...@comcast.com...
still makes it an incorrect instalation.
if you're not going to do the job correctly ?
why even do the job at all...
--
'Key
don't really worry yourself too much about me christopher.
its not me that posted the half-a*s solution...
--
'Key
=====
---snip---
Here's how I'm going to move the hole. My only hole saw happens to be,
appropriately enough, a 2 1/8. I'm going to get a 2 1/4 unit, and have
already run a thick board through the jointer to get a piece the thickness of
my door. I'll use the 2 1/4 saw to cut out a round section that, given the
kerf of the saw, oughta fit fairly snugly in the existing 2 1/8 door hole.
I'll patch the center small hole in the new piece with a dowel, glue the
section in place in the door, and finally cut the correctly-positioned 2 1/8
hole.
Shouldn't be rocket science, although I'm sure I'll forge new frontiers in
Murphy's Law.
I don't want to get a new door slab because there's no assurance the
pre-drilled holes will line up with my existing hardware in the door jamb.
Last question: this gives me the obvious choice of either of the two standard
backsets. Is there any reason to choose one over the other?
Art
When he said it it made sense. When you say it it's just more idiocy, even
if it wasn't top posted.
you didn't start anything Art.
you asked a question and you should get CORRECT answers or
none at all.
g'luck with your project
--
'Key
=====
Many residential locks use 2 3/8 backset. And, it's closer (1/8) than the
other backset which is 1/4 away.
No fight here. I'm here to discuss, and to share wisdom. Someone wonders
about me? Should I care?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Arthur Shapiro" <art.s...@unisys.com> wrote in message
news:ft5ple$2vjl$1...@si05.rsvl.unisys.com...
thats already been mentioned..
> No fight here. I'm here to discuss, and to share wisdom.
your earlier suggested "wisdom"
to leave the latch short of being completely extended is
what raised your flag again.
> Someone wonders about me?
for the record,
I am NOT the only one around here that "wonders" about you.
> Should I care?
the balls in your court SM.
its an open forum,
do whatever ya wish...
--
'Key
=====
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"'Key" <K...@Ya.Net> wrote in message
news:SfednVzUJLiDEmva...@comcast.com...
if you are talking about yourself SM ?
I fail to see whats creative about an answer
that leaves the job less then complete ?
one thing is for sure SM.
we can agree that we don't agree on this subject and simply
move on...
also an old hand
--
'Key
=====