Lock lubrication question
Sheldon
hurt.
I just had a new key made (from code) for a used car I just bought (had to
"jiggle" the old key). The new key was a bit difficult to get in and out of
the cylinder, so the locksmith used powdered graphite to lubricate it.
Also, the last time it got really cold the cylinder was a bit difficult to
turn.
I questioned the locksmith, who told me not to use WD40, silicone, or any
lubricants with liquids in them as they will eventually gum up the works,
and that the powdered graphite will eventually work its way into the
mechanism.
With all the products down at the hardware store labeled "Lock Lubricant,"
what is the best thing to use? Most have liquid bases. I have seen
"straight" powered graphite, although it's not that easy to find. (BTW, I
live in an area where is snows a lot, but is at higher elevation with
normally low humidity.)
Thanks.
Sheldon
she...@sopris.net
Burlington Hardware
Bob
Tracy Knight
graphite at this point will make mud and clog up the springs and
wafers.Graphite works great in small doses but most people over do it.
The way I clean out a lock is to spray brake clean in it and then
lubricate it with Tri Flow good luck.
Jay Hennigan
:We use TRI Flow but a word of caution any spray lubricant used with
:graphite at this point will make mud and clog up the springs and
:wafers.Graphite works great in small doses but most people over do it.
:The way I clean out a lock is to spray brake clean in it and then
:lubricate it with Tri Flow good luck.
WARNING:
Don't spray brake cleaner in the lock while it's on the car!
Unless you want to pay for a new paint job. The above advice (clean
thoroughly and lube with Tri-Flow) is good, but brake cleaner is not
something you want anywhere near painted surfaces, and I'd be very
leery about using it if the lock has plastic parts.
--
-- Jay Hennigan j...@west.net 805-884-6323 --
WestNet: Internet service to Santa Barbara, Ventura and the world.
LockSmith
for me.
What kind of car was the key made for? The angle of the cuts can be a factor
when
cutting keys by code.
Chuck Fiedler
well on residential and commercial locks when they've been uninstalled
and you can clean them separately but, do this in a vehicle (or, for
that matter, while they're still installed in a door with a painted
surface) and you just raised the price of doing business by a *bunch*!
Be careful out there.
Chuck
Sheldon
The key did look a bit funny, but the locksmith told me that was normal, and
this particular locksmith has an excellent reputation. I do know that brake
cleaner will take the paint off all the way down to China. Been there, done
that.
I've had good luck with Tri-Flow on other applications, but didn't know
whether it was appropriate for locks. After all, damn near every lubricant
says on the label they are perfect for locks.
What I would probably use to flush out the lock would be electrical contact
cleaner. It won't hurt plastic, and doesn't seem to hurt paint. Besides,
we're not dealing with a Ferrari here.
Sheldon
she...@sopris.net
23 Mike
won't hurt.
I just had a new key made (from code) for a used car I just bought (had
to "jiggle" the old key).
Sounds lke your old key was either worn out or the person who made it
cut too deep in one or more positions.
>The new key was a bit difficult to get in and out of the cylinder, so
the locksmith used powdered graphite to lubricate it.
Keys cut by code have sharp points that often need to be taken down with
a file to get them to slide in and out of a plug smoothly. This is
especially true with the wafer locks in most cars.
>I questioned the locksmith, who told me not to use WD40, silicone, or
any lubricants with liquids in them as they will eventually gum up the
works, and that the powdered graphite will eventually work its way into
the mechanism.
Anywhere you go you're going to hear 2 different schools of thought on
this subject.
I personaly feel that a water based lubricant designed by NASA (WD-40)
is just fine for lubricating locks. It's when you douse a plug with WD
that's already had someone squirt it full of graphite (usualy too much)
that you start gumming things up.
--
Recent studies indicate that 25% the world's population suffers from
some sort of mental illness. Think of your three closest friends. If
they're ok, it's you.
Tom Strickland
> any lubricants with liquids in them as they will eventually gum up the
> works, and that the powdered graphite will eventually work its way into
> the mechanism.
>
> Anywhere you go you're going to hear 2 different schools of thought on
> this subject.
> I personaly feel that a water based lubricant designed by NASA (WD-40)
> is just fine for lubricating locks. It's when you douse a plug with WD
> that's already had someone squirt it full of graphite (usualy too much)
> that you start gumming things up.
>
> --
> Recent studies indicate that 25% the world's population suffers from
> some sort of mental illness. Think of your three closest friends. If
> they're ok, it's you.
>
WD40 was originally designed, by NASA, as a 'contact cleaner', to
clean electronic contacts, especially where PC boards interface.
It will eventually COMPLETELY evaporate, leaving the surfaces
totally free of ANY lubricant. I can't count the number of times I have
followed another tech rep, who sprayed WD40 on parts, until the
squeak stopped, and then left. When the WD40 evaporated,
someone (usually me) had to go back in, and replace the now
damaged components. WD40 is a _very_ temporary 'quick fix'.
Tom
Mike Hogan
compound hence the "WD". The water displacing characteristic is
supposedly what makes it a rust inhibitor. I could be wrong.
23 Mike wrote:
>
> >I'm sure this question has been asked a zillion times, but once more
> won't hurt.
> I just had a new key made (from code) for a used car I just bought (had
> to "jiggle" the old key).
>
> Sounds lke your old key was either worn out or the person who made it
> cut too deep in one or more positions.
>
> >The new key was a bit difficult to get in and out of the cylinder, so
> the locksmith used powdered graphite to lubricate it.
>
> Keys cut by code have sharp points that often need to be taken down with
> a file to get them to slide in and out of a plug smoothly. This is
> especially true with the wafer locks in most cars.
>
Dmorton46
it is, "Little things amuse little minds." :) One thing to remember about the
name "WD" is that a company can pretty much name a product whatever they want.
I knew someone that worked for this company in El Cajon, CA near San Diego.
They told me the stuff is more water than any other single ingredient. Anyway,
the thing I hate about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."The thing I like about
WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."
Remember, I'll be watching.
Dale
Henry E Schaffer
Dmorton46 <dmor...@aol.com> wrote:
>Hi, I'm mainly a lurker but the WD-40 thing caught my attention. ...
>One thing to remember about the name "WD" is that a company can pretty
>much name a product whatever they want. I knew someone that worked for
>this company in El Cajon, CA near San Diego. They told me the stuff is
>more water than any other single ingredient.
It appears to be kerosene or similar - don't think there is any water.
I've been told that the WD stands for "water displacer". Iit does a
decent job of that (e.g. in allowing wet ignition wires to function.)
>Anyway, the thing I hate about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."The
>thing I like about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."
It certainly won't replace axle grease! :-)
--
--henry schaffer
h...@ncsu.edu
Jim Parrie
Dmorton46 <dmor...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:19990517011557...@ng-fv1.aol.com...
> Hi, I'm mainly a lurker but the WD-40 thing caught my attention. You know
how
the
> name "WD" is that a company can pretty much name a product whatever they
want.
> I knew someone that worked for this company in El Cajon, CA near San
Diego.
> They told me the stuff is more water than any other single ingredient.
> the thing I hate about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."The thing I like
about
> WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."
I don't think there is much if any water in the stuff, but I do know that
the propellant is propane. Careful where you spray....
Tracy Knight
brakeclean on them.
Sheldon wrote:
>
> I'm sure this question has been asked a zillion times, but once more won't
> hurt.
>
> I just had a new key made (from code) for a used car I just bought (had to
> "jiggle" the old key). The new key was a bit difficult to get in and out of
> the cylinder, so the locksmith used powdered graphite to lubricate it.
> Also, the last time it got really cold the cylinder was a bit difficult to
> turn.
>
> I questioned the locksmith, who told me not to use WD40, silicone, or any
> lubricants with liquids in them as they will eventually gum up the works,
> and that the powdered graphite will eventually work its way into the
> mechanism.
>
Dale Fleming
40th formula that the military had tried in their attempt to make a fluid
which would disipate water from electronic boards.
It sounded good to me as I am one of those locksmiths that uses WD40 by the
case.
Now before some of you jump on your soap-boxes about the evils of the stuff
, I do agree that there are times when graphite is better (Medeco, ASSA,
Primus) but give me a break about the TRI-Flow....the stuff smells like
%^$#^%&
Dale
> It appears to be kerosene or similar - don't think there is any water.
>I've been told that the WD stands for "water displacer". Iit does a
>decent job of that (e.g. in allowing wet ignition wires to function.)
>
>>Anyway, the thing I hate about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."The
>>thing I like about WD40 is that it is a "quick fix."
>
Mike Hogan
have been on the rec.guns group where pros and cons of cleaners/
degreasers/rust inhibitors have been going on for years.
Keeping in this context, has anybody ever considered or tried mica
or something I recall from years ago, kind of moly/sulphur/graphite
flaked powder? I don't remember the exact name but it was dry and
sure was slippery. Kind of like moly grease but without the greasy
part.
Ray Hearn
The powder can accumulate in the sidebar recess and trap the key.
Ray Hearn
Dale Fleming <proofd...@uniserve.com> wrote in message
news:92725761...@neptune.uniserve.ca...
> I was told that the WD stands for "Water Displacement" and the 40 was that
> 40th formula that the military had tried in their attempt to make a fluid
> which would disipate water from electronic boards.
>
WATERS2K
Dale Fleming
Dale Fleming
C.M.L.
Mike Hogan wrote in message <37450597...@home.com>...
>I believe I came across the same description for WD-40. It may
>have been on the rec.guns group where pros and cons of cleaners/
>degreasers/rust inhibitors have been going on for years.
>
>Keeping in this context, has anybody ever considered or tried mica
>or something I recall from years ago, kind of moly/sulphur/graphite
>flaked powder? I don't remember the exact name but it was dry and
>sure was slippery. Kind of like moly grease but without the greasy
>part.
>
>Dale Fleming wrote:
>>
Dale Fleming
Dale Fleming
C.M.L.
WATERS2K wrote in message <19990522023824...@ng-fk1.aol.com>...
>USE POWDERED GRAPHITE
RedAngus98
>From: wate...@aol.com (WATERS2K)
>Date: 5/22/99 2:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <19990522023824...@ng-fk1.aol.com>
>
>USE POWDERED GRAPHITE
>
as opposed to liquid graphite?