Digital news photog outfit
Rebecca
switch from film to digital. I know I want a Canon D-60, but I'm
wondering what other journalists would recommend in terms of lenses,
memory cards, and accessories.
Naturally, I would love to have a variety of f2.8 lenses, but there
is no way my paper would pay for that. I cover news, features, and
sports, so I need some moderately priced lenses that can handle a
range. Right now, my main lenses are an f4.0L 70-200 and a cheapo
24-85. I also have a 2x extender and a longer lens that I use for
certain sports.
I don't want to lose true wide angle shots, so I'd like to get some
kind of ultra-wide lens that would give me a 24 or 28 mm effect after
the D-60's magnification factor.
What do people recommend in terms of flash, grip, battery packs, etc?
As far as memory cards, I'm clueless. How many pics do different size
cards hold? Are there any other accessories, how ever trivial, that a
digitial camera needs that a film camera doesn't?
Any advice from experienced photographers would be helpful.
Guy Ackermans
wrote:
I work with the Nikon D-100, but the D-60 is also a great camera.
>I work for a community weekly which has recently decided to make the
>switch from film to digital. I know I want a Canon D-60, but I'm
>wondering what other journalists would recommend in terms of lenses,
>memory cards, and accessories.
> Naturally, I would love to have a variety of f2.8 lenses, but there
>is no way my paper would pay for that. I cover news, features, and
>sports, so I need some moderately priced lenses that can handle a
>range. Right now, my main lenses are an f4.0L 70-200 and a cheapo
>24-85. I also have a 2x extender and a longer lens that I use for
>certain sports.
From tests I read in magazines I think I will go for the Sigma 15-30.
It seems to be better and much cheaper than the Nikon 17-35.
> I don't want to lose true wide angle shots, so I'd like to get some
>kind of ultra-wide lens that would give me a 24 or 28 mm effect after
>the D-60's magnification factor.
> What do people recommend in terms of flash, grip, battery packs, etc?
> As far as memory cards, I'm clueless. How many pics do different size
>cards hold? Are there any other accessories, how ever trivial, that a
>digitial camera needs that a film camera doesn't?
> Any advice from experienced photographers would be helpful.
I use a flash that has no TTL metering when used on the camera. But I
don't really need it. You can imediately check your picture, so most
of the time I take a few pictures and evaluate them before the
shooting actually starts. I then use the flash in manual mode, This
works great.
I use the Nikon MB-D100 grip so I can use two Li-Ion battery's and I
have an extra release button for vertical shots. It also makes the
D-100 heavier (which I like).
I use two compact flash memory cards of 128Mb. These allow me to make
about 40 shots on JPG format on each card. But lately I prefer the RAW
format. And this only allows me to make 12 shots on each card. This is
not enough. I considered buying a microdrive. But my supplier had
already severeal microdrives returned, because they didn't function
properly. They are replaced under warranty, but I hate to lose my
photographs this way.
I also use an Image Tank to copy the files from the compact flash
cards. The Tank is slow, but relatively cheap.
You really have to think about your work-flow. It all sounds very
nice: no more develloping films, no more scanning. But 36 digital
pictures take up 360Mb (in RAW) of Harddisk space. I make a backup of
all my pictures on CD in duplicate. And it takes time to move the
files from camera to computer.
But: I really like the digital photography. I think its a great
addition to the film camera's I use.
Guy
matthew apgar
--if you use A (automatic) as opposed to TTL or manual, your flash will
generally refresh quicker (and it's even better if you dial it down between
0.3-1.0 stops...
--and don't trust what the LCD displays--it is not an accurate rendition of
what information you have (or don't have) in your actual photo.
about microdrives:
--they contain a moving part--that's usually what doesn't "function" ("if
you drop it twice, don't bother picking it up!")...Lexar makes a gig cf card
that isn't a microdrive, which doesn't have any moving parts but is also
around $400 more...
random other stuff:
--look into getting a digital wallet to store pictures while you're in the
field, so you can empty your card.
--CF card readers transfer files TONS faster than copying from cd, and
they're only like $30. Firewire is faster, but that requires Nikon Capture
or the other Nikon software.
-The majority of the time jpeg fine quality should be more than enough, and
will increase your shooting capacity.
--Check out www.robgalbraith.com for more info!
Hope this helps some
--
Matthew N. Apgar
RIT photojournalism student
http://www.rit.edu/~ritnppa/index.html
http://www.angelfire.com/realm/grumble18/Photos/EVJ_Porfolio.html
716-734-3647
"Guy Ackermans" <g...@spamblock.ackermans.net> wrote in message
news:3daf28d7...@news.xs4all.nl...
Guy Ackermans
<map...@rochester.rr.com> wrote:
>about flash:
>--if you use A (automatic) as opposed to TTL or manual, your flash will
>generally refresh quicker (and it's even better if you dial it down between
>0.3-1.0 stops...
With my flash I can munually choose between full power an 1/64 power.
If you don't have this possiblity I think using A (automatic) is the
bet way to go.
>--and don't trust what the LCD displays--it is not an accurate rendition of
>what information you have (or don't have) in your actual photo.
I agree, but is is a starting point for your test shots.
>about microdrives:
>--they contain a moving part--that's usually what doesn't "function" ("if
>you drop it twice, don't bother picking it up!")...Lexar makes a gig cf card
>that isn't a microdrive, which doesn't have any moving parts but is also
>around $400 more...
>
>random other stuff:
>--look into getting a digital wallet to store pictures while you're in the
>field, so you can empty your card.
Image tank is a kind of digital wallet
>--CF card readers transfer files TONS faster than copying from cd, and
>they're only like $30. Firewire is faster, but that requires Nikon Capture
>or the other Nikon software.
I agree with all of the above. What I meant was that when your hard
disk crashes or is simply to small you will have to make backups on
other media. I use CD's but you can also use DVD or removable
harddisks, etc.
I also keep one CD copy at the office of the paper for which I work.
>-The majority of the time jpeg fine quality should be more than enough, and
>will increase your shooting capacity.
I agree. But when you are in difficult lighting situations it makes
life a lot easier if you can adjust the white balance afterwards.
>--Check out www.robgalbraith.com for more info!
Great site!
Guy
PWW
"matthew apgar" <map...@rochester.rr.com> wrote:
Matthew: Just a couple of disagreements
> random other stuff:
> --CF card readers transfer files TONS faster than copying from cd, and
> they're only like $30. Firewire is faster, but that requires Nikon Capture
> or the other Nikon software.
You don't need all that extra NIKON software if you have a newer Mac.
Just plug it in (FireWire or USB) and "boingo" it pops up as an extra
drive. You can drag these images out and copy them just like a regular
drive.
> -The majority of the time jpeg fine quality should be more than enough, and
> will increase your shooting capacity.
I have noticed a difference in color on JPEGs compared to TIFFs and
NEFs. An Example is a Brilliant Red Plastic Toy in captured in TIFF or
NEF becomes a duller and slightly less vibrant red in JPEG.
PWW
VTatsel
news:56fd93f2.02101...@posting.google.com...
> I work for a community weekly which has recently decided to make the
> switch from film to digital. I know I want a Canon D-60, but I'm
> wondering what other journalists would recommend in terms of lenses,
> memory cards, and accessories.
> Naturally, I would love to have a variety of f2.8 lenses, but there
> is no way my paper would pay for that. I cover news, features, and
> sports, so I need some moderately priced lenses that can handle a
> range. Right now, my main lenses are an f4.0L 70-200 and a cheapo
> 24-85. I also have a 2x extender and a longer lens that I use for
> certain sports.
The D60 crops out the sides of your shot, so it's the equivalent of a 1.6x
always-on extender.
I use the Sigma 17-35mm, F2.8-4 plastic and glass lens. I have also used a
Canon L 20-35mm F2.8 metal and glass lens. The Canon L gives slightly
better shots, however it cost's three times as much, weighs more, the ROI is
less and I'd be less likely to hand it over to a mugger. So typically I
shoot 99%+ of my streets shots with the Sigma, it lets me get closer, and
the reduced cost let's me worry less about uninsured damage.
> I don't want to lose true wide angle shots, so I'd like to get some
> kind of ultra-wide lens that would give me a 24 or 28 mm effect after
> the D-60's magnification factor.
17mm x1.6 = 27vmm.
Canon do a 15mm (24vmm), but I did side by side, instore shots with the
Sigma 17-35, and didn't see enough difference to pay money for.
> What do people recommend in terms of flash, grip, battery packs, etc?
Unlike film bodies, grips for digital don't offer performance boosts. The
D30/60 grips allows you to use two batteries instead of one (800 shot per
battery swap instead of 400), but don't increase buffer or Fps. And in cold
weather you'll be taking out the second battery to store inside your warm
clothing to enhance it's life anyway.
If you want to sidemount a flash to the left, you don't need a grip, however
if you want to mount a flash to the right of the body, then your hand may
extend too far down the body to let the flash mounting arm extend. Then the
grip helps by giving an extra inch of hand grip to let the flash mount go
past.
Canon CMOS cameras don't need third party battery packs (400shots per
battery, with a battery form factor of about 4 AA's which makes them easy to
carry).
You might want an external battery pack for your flash, depending on the
range/ ISO/ FPS.
> As far as memory cards, I'm clueless. How many pics do different size
> cards hold? Are there any other accessories, how ever trivial, that a
> digital camera needs that a film camera doesn't?
The two main formats I use are Large/Fine Jpeg's where the size varies per
detail and ISO rating (due to noise) and I also shoot Canon RAW format
(constant size, extra post production options).
Jpegs have an easier workflow and higher FPS, but are harder to salvage if
they are off (they are like transparencies).
RAW's are have better quality and can be corrected later (like negatives)
but are slower and take up more space.
I recommend having very large cards and having more than one card. In the
news biz there will be times when you don't want to waste attention on your
shot count and when you want to send your photos back to the office and stay
keep shooting.
Get external card readers, they are pretty cheap, and let you send pictures
through other peoples computers, rather than carry a heavy, expensive
laptop.
> Any advice from experienced photographers would be helpful.
It's better to have too many batteries and too much storage, than the other
way around. Everryone learns this the hard way, with regular reminders.
Keep you battery contacts away from anything that can short circuit them.
Sportsshoooter.com ran story on how a loose digicam battery, next to a
notepad with a metal spiral, shorted and set the snappers fanny pack alight,
while she was wearing it.
Get a fast DVD or CD burner and a large hard drive, since you will be
shooting huge amounts and you will be wanting to backup multiple copies to
different locations, as well as have a fast cache of recent and important
shots.
Keep one copy in your office in a convenient case, and at least one other
offsite, sealed, somewhere water/ fire/ fingerprint proof.
Make sure your CD burning software supports verification (e.g does it reread
the CD after writing, looking for errors). This is very important, as CDR's
are fragile and can be mal adjusted. It's not a good feeling to have, after
backing up photos to your CD and deleting the original files, to discover
the CD's weren't copied flawlessly.
Hope this helps
--
VT
WMAS 1960
I went out a couple weeks ago and bought a Nikon D100 and a few accessories. I
have been using a Coolpix 990 lately for my personal use and while taking some
pics realized that I really missed my SLR (Canon A-1). Since the old manual
focus camera is so outdated I realized that I would have to buy all new anyways
and made the choice to change from the Canon equipment to Nikon.
The outfit that I bought is doing well right now and I have a feeling that it
is pretty good and adequate for what this subject asks. I purchased the D100
body with a 24-85mm G lens for standard use. So far that seems to be working
well but I sense from the numbers that, while I haven't encountered a need yet,
I might consider a wider angle lens in the future. With the lens actually
requiring a 1.5-1 factor that means that the 24mm actually performs as a 36mm
and the 85mm being equal to 127+mm, some large or close up subjects might be
too tight with this lens.
As a second lens I went with a NIKKOR ED80-200 2.8 D AF Zoom lens. (120-300mm).
I need to work on my technique a bit but it seems good for sports and I have
taken some nice wildlife photos with it. I have gotten some great Distance
Portraits with it like what you might have at a press conference or speech or
town hall meeting in a large room. I really like this lens. Actually in many
situations I have been able to hand hold the lens and get some incredably sharp
photos. My problem with the sports, thus far, has been that I have taken
photos from the press box, outdoors, under artificial light at night and under
an overcast sky right after a passing storm. Light was a little questionable
and some of my pictures showed some motion blur at 800 ISO. I might have been
able to go to 1600 and have done OK. I am looking forward to trying again and
in a better lit hockey rink or with bright afternoon natural light. Should do
well with it.
I also purchased the SB-80DX flash. Seems powerfull and actually did a nice
job with illuminating a desk in a dark room at about 50' from where I took the
shot. It was a little dark but seemed within range of some Photoshop
manipulation. The head on the flash pivots horozontally and vertically and
allows you to bounce off the ceiling or a wall. The diffusers provided, white
plastic cap and a reflector type plastic shield that slides into the top seem
like they would be helpful. I haven't used the reflector but have used the cap
for most of my portrait shots with the 24-85mm G Lens where I was about 5 to 10
feet from my subject. The 80DX flash is infinately better than the built in,
pop up flash on the camera.
A note about the built in flash, I found problems with some shots where, since
the flash is so close to the camera, my subjects occasionally had some odd
shadows on them. I found that it was due to the lens hood on the lens
eclipsing the flash at close distances. At further distance it works well
though but there is a limit to it's power and the distance that it will
illuminate.
In addition to the above I also purchased skylight or haze glass to put on
front of the lenses for protection. Also I bought a 512meg Promaster CF card
that is working well. I have 165 pics on it right now and still have 15 more
to use. I am shooting JPG Full size 6mpxls with the least possible
compression. With this capacity I am considering maybe getting 2 256meg cards
for some more capacity when I go out of town and may be away from my computer.
On a couple trips to Las Vegas with my Coolpix I have never gone over 170
images for a week long trip so I may not be in a big hurry to get more. The
512meg seems very adequate for my immediate needs.
I already have tripods and have commandiered my brothers monopod which he
purchased a couple years ago and has yet to use.
I hope this info is hepful to you and would welcome any professional or
experienced input on this set up and any suggestions to make it better.
I am now going to read the rest of these replies and see what other suggestions
people have.
WMAS 1960
adapter with my notebook and have a card reader that the PCMCIA card fits into
on my Desktop. That may not be the fastest but I understand that it is much
faster than the camera to the computer via the USB cable. I recently
transfered my entire 512 card to an external HD through my notebook and it took
15 minutes. My Notebook PC though is a little challenged right now on
resources so once I clean it up it might go a little faster? I also have card
readers on my HP Printer but my experience from my Coolpix was that the
pictures transfered slower than when put directly into the computer through the
Lexar Card Reader and the PCMCIA Card.
I also read extensively here and on some Yahoo Groups that the MicroDrives are
not a good choice if you are doing remote type photojournalism. They might be
good in studios or other situations where you are in safe and controlled
environments. However being bumped around, dropped etc. they can get damaged
and fail. I read where the CF card is much more durable and dependable for
globetrotters or others who are bumbling around gathering their shots.
Narelle
>
>
> Keep you battery contacts away from anything that can short circuit them.
> Sportsshoooter.com ran story on how a loose digicam battery, next to a
> notepad with a metal spiral, shorted and set the snappers fanny pack alight,
> while she was wearing it.
Can't find a reference to this incident on the site; can you point it out?
A sceptic by heart, I find it just a little incredulous (although I don't doubt that you did read it)
thanks
Narelle
Rebecca
digital files. This is roughly the equipment list I've come up with so
far:
Canon D-60 "kit"
Canon 17-35 f2.8 (Sigma 17-35 if cost necessitates)
Canon 70-200 f2.8L
That lens combo means I wouldn't be covered for the (effective) 56 to
112 range. Maybe I should get a cheaper variable aperture lens to
cover that range or a reasonably priced prime. Any thoughts?
Some Canon EZ Flash
UV Filters
Monopod
2 Flash cards with as much memory as possible (Is brand an issue
here?)
A card reader
Anything I'm missing? Thanks again for the suggestions.
Narelle
> Thanks for all the advice on equipment and the process of handling
> digital files. This is roughly the equipment list I've come up with so
> far:
>
> Canon D-60 "kit"
> Some Canon EZ Flash
You should go with a 550 EX flash as D60 is E-TTL
Narelle
VTatsel
news:3DB31C8D...@freeofspamoptushome.com.au...
A sceptical pj looking for the original source of a hard to believe
story?!?!
I'm surprised ;)
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news_story.html?id=461
#start of#
SportsShooter.com: News Item: Posted 2001-01-23
Sports Shooter News & Notes
By Robert Hanashiro
- Jody Grober passed along this frightening incident:. This is just weird
enough that I thought we should pass it along to other photojournalists who
use the Kodak DCS 520 batteries:
One of our photographers, Elizabeth Armstrong, was shooting a marching band
practice when she smelled smoke. After several minutes of noticing the
smell, she was shocked to see flames shooting out of her fanny pack.
She rolled on the ground and was able to disconnect the pack from her waist
without getting burned, though she definitely came close.
It turns out a new, fully charged Kodak Premium gold camera battery had come
in contact with the metal spiral binding of a reporter's notebook in the
pack. (See attached photos). We're assuming the spiral wires must have been
a perfect fit and caused the battery to short. The fire burned an inch and a
half wide hole in the pack.
Have you heard of any similar incidents? I know Kodak puts safety warnings
on the battery, but I didn't realize how flammable the plastic casing really
is. I know there can be overheating in battery chargers, but I didn't every
think a charged battery could short out so violently.
We'll definitely be taking care in the future to store these batteries in
such a way that they can't come in contact with anything else in the camera
bag. We've learned our lesson.
Rich Shulman
Director of Photography and Graphics
The Everett Herald
#end of#
--
VT
% Homer's rescheduled photo session takes place in the basement. Not
% only is it safe from prying eyes, but it's also dark. "Light is not
% your friend," the photographer explains. -The Simpsons(aabf18)
VTatsel
> Thanks for all the advice on equipment and the process of handling
> digital files. This is roughly the equipment list I've come up with so
> far:
> 2 Flash cards with as much memory as possible (Is brand an issue
> here?)
DpReview's conclusion
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/mediacompare/ (page5)
"Overall it's clear that there are real differences between different
brands. The unfortunate thing for the consumer is that the cards which are
promoted as high performance tend not to perform any differently than many
'standard' cards. This really does bring into question the whole concept of
charging a premium for such cards.
The other noticeable difference is in the device's ability to make use of
the cards performance, your camera and its CF interface has a large
influence on how a card performs. Many cards will perform better in D-SLR's
and especially professional digital SLR's (most professional D-SLR's can
push the results shown by the D30 by 50-70%)."
--
VT