Cherokee 4x4 Full Time or 2WD ?
Blewyn
Cherokee in Full Time 4x4 or 2WD ? The car's manual says you can use either
(but not part-time 4WD), but offers no reasons for choosing one over the
other. I've noticed little change in power/acceleration in either mode.
Any opinions/advice ?
--
Blewyn
Martin Boer
> For normal on-the-road use, what are the pros and cons of using my '98
> Cherokee in Full Time 4x4 or 2WD ? The car's manual says you can use either
> (but not part-time 4WD), but offers no reasons for choosing one over the
> other. I've noticed little change in power/acceleration in either mode.
con: making small turns becomes a bit shaky.
con: uses a small bit more fuel.
con: makes a small bit more noise.
2: opposite. :)
Martin
> Any opinions/advice ?
> --
> Blewyn
--
Tin will not rust or give in but melts directly when heated =B-)
Blewyn
news:aesc1g$7og$1...@news.kpn.com...
> In rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys Blewyn <ble...@spam-me-notbtinternet.com>
wrote:
> > For normal on-the-road use, what are the pros and cons of using my '98
> > Cherokee in Full Time 4x4 or 2WD ? The car's manual says you can use
either
> > (but not part-time 4WD), but offers no reasons for choosing one over the
> > other. I've noticed little change in power/acceleration in either mode.
> 4x4: pro: when road conditions suddenly change, you were already prepared.
> con: making small turns becomes a bit shaky.
> con: uses a small bit more fuel.
> con: makes a small bit more noise.
> 2: opposite. :)
> Martin
>
> > Any opinions/advice ?
>
Thanks Martin. Any comments about wear and tear to 4x4 parts, or the danger
of uneven tyre wear (can cause 4WD transmission change problems, so i'm
told) ?
Cheers,
Blewyn
Mx-Pilot
and when you gas it, in 4x4, the front doesnt come up, handles a little
sturdier
"Blewyn" <ble...@SPAM-ME-NOTbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:aese4q$365$1...@news0.ifb.net...
Odd-Inge Larsen
Norway. I like the fact that all four tires wear evenly. Also absoloutly a
must in winter conditions.
I do however feel that "fast" driving on winding roads tends to oversteer
sometimes in the middle of a turn when i use Full Time mode. Feels more like
a normal two weel drive car when in 2WD. Could be the tires.
Odd-Inge
"Blewyn" <ble...@SPAM-ME-NOTbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:aes8sr$u2d$1...@news0.ifb.net...
CruiserHead
and/or a centre disconnect you need to put it in 4 wd once a month to keep
everything 'lubed' however, since Jeeps don't come with locking hubs from
the factory, that's not necessary. The parts aer spinning all the time. If
you have locking hubs (not drive plates). you need to put it in 4wd once a
month.
--
James H.
SLC, Utah.
76 FJ40 'Blood Sucker'
Wasatch Cruisers
TLCA #11233
FJ40OMERS900035InchMTR's Non-USADistJimCCarbStock otherwise.
"Who needs a locker when you've got secondaries???"
"Mx-Pilot" <n...@spam.thxs> wrote in message
news:XAmQ8.88784$831....@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Ookie Wonderslug
Depends on how much money you make. If you can afford to replace 4x4
parts real often then it is ok to ride on dry pavement in 4 wheel
drive. All it does it place lots more strain on the drive train. Makes
it break or wear out faster, Good rule of thumb: If you have a 4x4,
take it off road at least once a month and use the 4 wheel drive. If
you are never going off road, then do not buy a 4x4. It is so sad to
see a Blazer or Jeep being driven by a soccer mom who will never use
it the right way. The abilities of most brands of 4x4 have been
sharply reduced in order to please women and wussies who want a
car-like ride and handling and a lower step to get in. If people only
bought capable 4x4's because they were actually going to go off road
then this trash that is coming out of Detroit and Japan would get
better. Do Not Use 4 Wheel drive on dry pavement. (Unless you are
well off. Then by all means, go for it)
Ookie Wonderslug
Hogan Whittall
You're talking about part-time 4wd, full-time 4wd is ok for use on any
surface. As for parts wearing out or breaking faster with full-time, that's
not the case on the Cherokee. Whether you're in 2wd or full-time 4wd the
drivetrain will be moving (front and rear axle, driveshafts, etc). No hubs
and no axle disconnect like on YJs, the only disconnect when in 2wd is in
the tcase. Fuel mileage and wear will be virtually identical in either
mode, full-time 4wd will just offer a bit more control under acceleration
and such.
--
Hogan Whittall
1997 Dodge 2500 - Cummins, NV4500, etc
1982 Jeep CJ-7 - Chevy 3.8 V6, T5, etc
"Ookie Wonderslug" <oo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:3d154edd...@news-server.carolina.rr.com...
Lon Stowell
Ookie Wonderslug <oo...@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
>
>Depends on how much money you make. If you can afford to replace 4x4
>parts real often then it is ok to ride on dry pavement in 4 wheel
>drive. All it does it place lots more strain on the drive train. Makes
>it break or wear out faster, Good rule of thumb: If you have a 4x4,
>take it off road at least once a month and use the 4 wheel drive.
Better rule of thumb. Be very cautious before believing half the
BS you read on the internet. Like the uninformed blather above.
--
[Please add your own clever saying here]
Blewyn
news:afdmn9$qus$1...@bob.news.rcn.net...
What's your opinion ? Some say that 2WD mode can cause problems for 4WD by
causing the drive wheels to lose tread (and therefore reduce in
circumference). The 4WD system is based on the assumption that front and
rear wheels are the same size, and has trouble compensating when they are
not. It sounds plausible, but in full-time 4WD can't all four wheels rotate
independently ? And you're only supposed to use part-time 4WD on slippery
surfaces....
Blewyn
Paul Keating
That's why you rotate your tires...............
Paul
Kevin in San Diego
Kevin
"Blewyn" <ble...@SPAM-ME-NOTbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:afesgf$j1d$1...@news0.ifb.net...
Lordy
surely before you can state anything you need this info. ?
"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_h...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:CoFS8.49499$Ok1.3...@news2.west.cox.net...
Blewyn
news:afkujo$h4b$1...@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
> Could we find out which market the Cherokee was built for and which
engine -
> surely before you can state anything you need this info. ?
It's a 4.0L petrol in the UK.
Blewyn
Gordon Wedman
drive just to get out of the parking lot of my apartment in the winter.
"Nosey" <kfr...@removethis.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3d1b1e46$1...@nopics.sjc...
> I guess then I am a wussie? I rarely take my 4X4 off road.
> All my driving is on pavement. I'm still trying to figure out why
> anyone would want to plow snow off road! ;^)
>
> "Ookie Wonderslug" <oo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> news:3d120039...@news-server.carolina.rr.com...
> > If you are never going off road, then do not buy a 4x4.
CPF
The Cherokee came in two versions, the first being a more basic model
called the Cherokee and the up-price model the Grand-Cherokee.
Some of the basic models are fitted with part-time 4x4, with a transfer case
operated by pulling a leaver and manually engaging the front drive shaft.
This unit is the same LJ-21 style box that's been used since '84 and is
chain-driven. Additionally, this vehicle is fitted with auto-locking front
hubs. As with most part-timers, they only have a locking gear and spline
locking the front shaft to the rear. This mechanism is very reliable, but
it doesn't count for the differing speeds that all of the wheels are doing.
In all cars, all the wheels are turning at slightly different speeds, this
is exacerbated when you go around a corner, where the inside wheels are
traveling slower that the outside wheels. In a 4x4, this is exacerbated
even further as the front outside tyre will be going much faster than the
inside rear tyre. What happens is the transmision, transfer case, drive
shafts and axles build up a massive tension. This is called "Wind-up".
Jeeps are very well built 4by's, but even they can't withstand the wind-up
and eventually you will do one of the following:
1. A front CV joint (either side or both at the same time)
2. Stretch the transfer-case chain.
3. Twist a drive shaft. (They usually snap, but mainly they go out of
balance and the car will shudder violently)
4. snap a rear axle shaft
5. blow the Danna diff in the rear by snapping the pinion-ends.
All of the above is neither covered under warranty or cheap to fix.
Car manufacturers get around this wind-up problem in "full-time 4x4's" by
using a device called a centre-differential. A "diff" allows a DIFFERENCE
in torque between two different planes. The Toyota Landcruiser have had
these since 1993, when the 80 series went to the full-time system. The
vehicles "transfer case" now has a differential instead of the chain-drive
and gear. This allows each axle's differentials to distribute the load of
the engines torque, and allows each wheel to spin independently.
This system is fantastic on the road, but........ If you take your vehicle
off-road, then the system has some diffecencies. If you lift or bog ONE
wheel in the vehicle, then you will become stuck.. This is due to the
nature of the differentials. Any form of energy, (Wether it be electricity,
heat or motive) will always prefer the easy way out of a system. With your
bogged/lifted wheel, all of the energy from the transmission system will go
to that wheel, (there's nothing stopping it from spinning eh?), causing the
vehicle to stop...
The Jeep system (Just like the Landcruiser) has a "Centre Diff-Lock", where
the transfer-case differential locks and connects the front and rear drive
shafts directly. This causes the vehicle to act like a part-timer.
The main problems with full-time 4x4's use on the road involve many facets
of the vehicle, to break them down, the problems most people suffer are;
Large "Back-lash" problems with the transmission.
Accelerated tyre-wear
Accelerated front to back tyre wear
Additional components being driven add to the fuel bill
Additional costs in repairs (Front CV joints aren't cheep)
High maintenance workload, in trying to keep your tyres at the same pressure
and profile.
If you can drive around normally in 4x2, then do it! My Nissan Patrol is a
part-timer for the above reasons. Additionally, as a highly involved 4x4er,
I see many nice 4x4's that are nackered-up by not "excerising" them from
time to time......
Hope I didn't bore you....
"Blewyn" <ble...@SPAM-ME-NOTbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:aes8sr$u2d$1...@news0.ifb.net...
Simon Barr
>
> Car manufacturers get around this wind-up problem in "full-time 4x4's" by
> using a device called a centre-differential. A "diff" allows a DIFFERENCE
> in torque between two different planes. The Toyota Landcruiser have had
> these since 1993, when the 80 series went to the full-time system. The
> vehicles "transfer case" now has a differential instead of the chain-drive
> and gear. This allows each axle's differentials to distribute the load of
> the engines torque, and allows each wheel to spin independently.
>
Niva's have had this since the late seventies and Range rovers even before
that.
> This system is fantastic on the road, but........ If you take your vehicle
> off-road, then the system has some diffecencies. If you lift or bog ONE
> wheel in the vehicle, then you will become stuck.. This is due to the
> nature of the differentials. Any form of energy, (Wether it be electricity,
> heat or motive) will always prefer the easy way out of a system. With your
> bogged/lifted wheel, all of the energy from the transmission system will go
> to that wheel, (there's nothing stopping it from spinning eh?), causing the
> vehicle to stop...
>
> The Jeep system (Just like the Landcruiser) has a "Centre Diff-Lock", where
> the transfer-case differential locks and connects the front and rear drive
> shafts directly. This causes the vehicle to act like a part-timer.
>
Yep, got one of those too.
>
> Hope I didn't bore you....
>
>
Sound like you know what Jeep use, didn't know if you knew others used
a similar system.
--
Simon Barr.
1.7i Lada Niva Cossack.
Blewyn
news:3d337...@news.iprimus.com.au...
> Let us first dispell most of the BS that's being uttered.
>
> The Cherokee came in two versions, the first being a more basic model
> called the Cherokee and the up-price model the Grand-Cherokee.
Thanks for the advice. So in a nutshell you're saying that one should use
4x2 for onroad driving, but to give the car a run in 4x4 (FT) every now and
again to keep the components oiled and running, and to use 4x4(PT) only
off-road ?
Blewyn
Kevin in San Diego
Kevin
"Blewyn" <ble...@SPAM-ME-NOTbtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:ah0rl7$14i$1...@news0.ifb.net...
Blewyn
> I keep mine in full time all the time.
> Kevin
Why ?
Blewyn
Kevin in San Diego
wash I can punch it and the tires wont spin. I used to trailer a lot with it
and it was great for backing a trailer.(no wheel slip going over curbs etc)
I got so used to using it that I stopped liking the way 2wd felt. I have a
lunchbox locker going in the front soon and then I will be stuck leaving it
in 2wd. I dont trailer with it any more. It is a dedicated trail vehicle.
Kevin
(in sunny San Diego :)> smiley with tounge sticking out.
"Chris Phillipo" <Xcphi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:MPG.179fcb756...@news1.sympatico.ca...
> In article <ah3vi4$jij$1...@news0.ifb.net>, blewyn@SPAM-ME-
> NOTbtinternet.com says...
> Look where he lives, he wants to be ready for when the big one hits :)
> --
> ____________________
> Remove "X" from email address to reply.
Martin Morrison
Martin
"CPF" <chri...@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:3d337...@news.iprimus.com.au...
> Let us first dispell most of the BS that's being uttered.
Yes, let's do.
>
> The Cherokee came in two versions, the first being a more basic model
> called the Cherokee and the up-price model the Grand-Cherokee.
These are two separate vehicles. (different bodies)
>
> Some of the basic models are fitted with part-time 4x4, with a transfer
case
> operated by pulling a leaver and manually engaging the front drive shaft.
> This unit is the same LJ-21 style box that's been used since '84 and is
> chain-driven. Additionally, this vehicle is fitted with auto-locking
front
> hubs. As with most part-timers, they only have a locking gear and spline
> locking the front shaft to the rear. This mechanism is very reliable, but
> it doesn't count for the differing speeds that all of the wheels are
doing.
As far as I know there were never any Cherokees/Grand Cherokees that came
with AutoLocking hubs. The all had the sealed wheel bearing unit that
doesn't have any provision for locking hubs. Some did come with a vacum
disconnect on the axle.
>
> In all cars, all the wheels are turning at slightly different speeds, this
> is exacerbated when you go around a corner, where the inside wheels are
> traveling slower that the outside wheels. In a 4x4, this is exacerbated
> even further as the front outside tyre will be going much faster than the
> inside rear tyre. What happens is the transmision, transfer case, drive
> shafts and axles build up a massive tension. This is called "Wind-up".
> Jeeps are very well built 4by's, but even they can't withstand the wind-up
> and eventually you will do one of the following:
>
> 1. A front CV joint (either side or both at the same time)
I believe most the earlier Cherokees still had ujoints in the front axle.
The Grand Cherokees had the CV joints.
> 2. Stretch the transfer-case chain.
> 3. Twist a drive shaft. (They usually snap, but mainly they go out of
> balance and the car will shudder violently)
> 4. snap a rear axle shaft
> 5. blow the Danna diff in the rear by snapping the pinion-ends.
>
> All of the above is neither covered under warranty or cheap to fix.
>
> Car manufacturers get around this wind-up problem in "full-time 4x4's" by
> using a device called a centre-differential. A "diff" allows a
DIFFERENCE
> in torque between two different planes. The Toyota Landcruiser have had
> these since 1993, when the 80 series went to the full-time system. The
> vehicles "transfer case" now has a differential instead of the chain-drive
> and gear. This allows each axle's differentials to distribute the load
of
> the engines torque, and allows each wheel to spin independently.
>
Cheverolet, Dodge and Ford all had this capability in the early to mid 70's.
Will Reid
"Steve Firth" <%steve%@malloc.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1fgcgnh.svpvq1cfnmb7N%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
> Chris Phillipo <Xcphi...@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > No it's true, after you put in the chevy small block, the ford axles and
> > the drive shaft from a 3/4 ton.
>
> And start looking around for a decent chassis.
>
Well hell. Might as well replace the body with an aluminum tub (I'm not a
huge fan of fibreglass because I like have a ground EVERYWHERE) to rid
ourselves of that brown crap. And what about those vinyl seats? The stock
bumpers and bumperettes (ugly IMHO) just aren't strong enough for me either,
but neither are the aftermarket ones really... so I just built my own (I'll
be taking some pictures to see what y'all think soon-still needs paint).
And since I'm bitching, my 15 gallon gastank is just to small for a vehicle
that gets less than 20mpg.