96 Cherokee Won't Start
Tamiami
My 1996 Cherokee Country died suddenly yesterday and now won't even turn
over. I've replaced the fusible link to the power control center and
checked the starter relay which powers the starter perfectly. But it
still won't start. There is no power to the coil when in the on
position. Is there a fuse or another fusible link I'm overlooking? All
fuses I've checked seem in great shape. It's a 2wd inline 6 and the
keyed ignition switch seems to function correctly.
Thanks.
DougW
Apart from pulling and checking every fuse in the power center (under
the hood)...
By "turn over" do you mean crank or the engine just wont turn at all.
If the engine won't turn at all then the problem can be the solinoid
at the starter motor.
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm119948.htm
If you don't want to mess with it, just disconnect the battery,
remove the wires from the starter, drop the starter, and take
it to PepBoys/Canadian Tire/etc and they can bench test it for you.
...
If by "turn over" you mean it cranks but does not start
then keep reading.
pull the codes.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/engine_codes.html
I'm thinking that on the 96 they didn't allow codes to be
pulled other than with the scantool. Try anway.
There is a relay (ASD) that powers the coil.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html#enginefuses
You can swap it with the AC relay for testing.
However, the jeep will prevent the engine from starting if it's missing
any critical sensors. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is one of the
most common no-start problems.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html#CPSdetails
Look on the side of your engine by the dipstic for a small connector
that runs down to the transmission. This is the CPS harness. Unplug
and replug that connection, then try starting again.
--
DougW
Tamiami
Thanks Doug. The engine will not turn over at all when trying to start
from the ignition switch. When testing the starter with the starter
relay, the starter works just fine in turning over the motor. I will
try swapping the relays to check the coil. When using the key to try
and start there is nothing at all. It seems that the crank position
sensor would not block the circuit to the starter motor while in the
cranking ignition switch position. The darn thing just seems dead from
the key. I'm about to crawl under and check the neutral safety switch
on the side of the tranny for loose connections, but after that I'm at a
loss.
Thanks again.
DougW
> Thanks Doug. The engine will not turn over at all when trying to
> start from the ignition switch. When testing the starter with the
> starter relay, the starter works just fine in turning over the motor.
> I will try swapping the relays to check the coil. When using the key
> to try and start there is nothing at all. It seems that the crank
> position sensor would not block the circuit to the starter motor
> while in the cranking ignition switch position. The darn thing just
> seems dead from the key. I'm about to crawl under and check the
> neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny for loose
> connections, but after that I'm at a loss.
The NSS will definitly do that. Try starting it in N vs Park.
I'm reading from the 1998 ZJ service book (likely close)
The engine starter relay (next to the ASD relay) is also
something to look at.
Basically it closes when the NSS closes and that is responsible
for providing 12V to the solinoid to crank the engine.
Here is an extract, doubt anything changed.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/1998-zj-starter.jpg
--
DougW
Tamiami
Thanks again Doug. You wouldn't happen to know easily which NSS
connector pin holds the +12V?
DougW
It's a ground system so you won't see 12V
unless the key is in the start position.
The switch just throws a ground when it's in N and P
The wire running to that pin should be a 20 Gauge Black
wire with a white stripe.
If that turns out to be the problem then http://jeepin.com/features/nss/
shows how to clean/rebuild it.
First thing to do is check the relay to make sure it's getting
12V when you turn the key to start.
Looking into the relay socket.
29
__
26 | __ | 30
28
27|
26 will go 12V when the ignition switch is in run or start
if it doesn't then check the fuse (F12) in the same area
It's a 40 amp fuse.
28 shouldh have 12V from it (also from fuse 12)
When the relay energizes pins 29 and 28 are connected through the relay.
That gives 12V to the solinoid by the starter and will cause the engine to crank.
--
DougW
Tamiami
Looks like it's going off until tomorrow. Will keep you posted if you'd
like.
Jeff Strickland
"Tamiami" <nos...@nospam.moc> wrote in message
news:4adc9b87$0$5646$9a6e...@unlimited.newshosting.com...
If you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem can be the ignition
switch itself OR the Neutral Safety Switch. The Crank Sensor would allow the
motor to crank, but it would not start and there would be a Check Engine
light and code.
The Ignition Switch is two parts, the lockset (part you put the key into)
and its linkage, and the Switch that is connected to the lockset via
linkage. If the key has a different feel than you are accustomed to, then
the linkage or the switch has failed. I had an ignition linkage that broke
at the part that allows the steering to tilt. I was able to start my truck,
but I could not turn it off. (It was a Bronco, so your mileage may vary.) I
had the linkage in my CJ5 break somewhere, but I can't recall the symptom.
The swtich has contacts that fail.
I'm not sure if the NSS will generate an OBD II code, but for certain the
ignition switch and linkage will not generate one.
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III
http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/1-2swremov.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:BillH...@billhughes.com
http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm
"Tamiami" <nos...@nospam.moc> wrote in message
news:4adce074$0$5668$9a6e...@unlimited.newshosting.com...
Tamiami
After four days of searching I finally found it and I bet you aren't
going to believe it. It turns out that it was a manufacturing defect in
the wiring harness connector that attaches to the bottom of the ignition
switch in the steering column.
Starting at the starter and working my way back through the NSS, power
block fuses and relays, the interior fuses and relays and landing at the
ignition switch - I discovered it. There is an eight pin connector
attaching to the bottom of the ignition switch with colored wires going
into it from left to right:
or/coral - purple - or - red - empty - purp/white - blue - yel
Well, due to it being too short and having to make the hard left turn to
connect under the steering column, over time and 85,000 miles the
or/coral wire at the extreme left of the connector had pulled out of the
block and was shorting the adjacent purple wire. Once disassembled and
reconnected the old girl took right off. And so far, the only
consequence I can see is the backup light bulbs burned out.
Now, all I have to do is look into the steering column and see if I can
loosen the wiring harness retainers to offer a little slack to the
stressed or/coral wire.
Who'd a thunk it?
Either way, I love my Cherokee.
DougW
I'm guessing if you had this problem then other folks will
probably have it too. Seems to work that way with jeeps. ;)
kjlou...@earthlink.net
I had a similar starting issue. I had to get under the the driver side
dash, follow the rod down the steering column to the switch and replace
the switch. It takes about an hour of effort, and the switch is well
under 20 bucks. The trick is not to disturb the rod coming down the
column too much. If disturbed too much, then pulling the steering wheel
off of the steering column to get to the upper guts, adds time and
aggravation to the endeavor by having to reposition the rod at the point
of the ignition key cylinder (ouch).
Tamiami, you can trail the rod down the same way as I did with my 1987
Jeep Cherokee. The rod is internal until you are way under the dash.
Two sure signs that you ignition switch is bad:
1) through the past, the motion of turning your key has gotten easier
and easier through time. The resistance of the key cylinder is
contingent on the rod and switch.
2) in the RECENT PAST (within 6 months, say), you've had to turn the key
to the extreme limit of it's rotation ability to get the starter to
engage. The contacts in the switch are worn / further apart.
Disconnect the battery before beginning the endeavor. Do not let the
positive wire touch any grounded surface as you can potentially damage
the computer. Therefore, remove the negative connection first, then the
positive.
When you have to old switch disconnected out and in your hand before the
trash can, take a small screw driver and insert it into the rod's
connection port and shift the switch to get a feel of the action. It's
quite different from a new one. It will also shed insight on why one of
the mounting has a elongated slot for installment adjusting when placing
the switch back on the column.
Ken
I'm not a mechanic, Just a seasoned Jeep Owner.
Note: any time you disconnect the battery, your jeep computer will go
through a re-learn mode when you reconnect.
Dylan
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For full context, visit https://www.motorsforum.com/jeep/96-cherokee-won-t-start-134892-.htm