"HUM" terminal for humidifier control?
Keith Carlson
I've seen lots of posts on using a "humidifier" terminal on the fan motor
control to run the humidifier only when the furnace is heating, but I'm not
totally clear on this... hoping someone here will help me out. The wiring
diagrams with the humidifier (Honeywell HE360A) I just bought doesn't show
it connected to a humidifier terminal. (Nor do the wiring diagrams for the
humidistat). The most it seems to say about it is "Select models of fan
centers include humidifier taps so the current sensing realy or sail switch
is not needed.
The fan motor control (Honeywell printed on circuit board) for my furnace
(Armstrong Air Ultra SX 93 High Eff.) has one terminal marked "HUM". Is this
all that is used, or is there a second terminal used with this?
The single terminal doesn't make sense to me. Should there be a second
terminal with the "HUM" so that between the two, it's opening and closing
the circuit connected to them? The one marked "HUM" is just single spade
terminal. Next to it is one marked "EAC" (elec. air cleaner?), and next are
two marked "N".
Or is this single terminal provide a voltage (24V?) when the fan motor is
on? If that's the case, what do I do with TWO wires from the humidifier? The
diagrams do show the humidfier wires in series with the humidistat and a
sail switch; one humidifier wire to the humidistat, from humidistat to sail
switch, then sail switch back to humidifier. I don't want to use the sail
switch though, if the motor control can turn it on and off.
Thanks!
--
***************************************
How do you tell when you're out
of invisible ink?
***************************************
Molly
and "neutral" terminals on your board.Then when the furnace is heating
and the fan is on you get 120 volts to power your humidifier
transformer.
Good luck,
Molly
HVAC Tech
"Keith Carlson" <kcarls...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:wGYE9.143408$NH2.10473@sccrnsc01...
> Hey, all.
>
> I've seen lots of posts on using a "humidifier" terminal on the fan motor
> control to run the humidifier only when the furnace is heating, but I'm
not
> totally clear on this... hoping someone here will help me out. The wiring
> diagrams with the humidifier (Honeywell HE360A) I just bought doesn't show
> it connected to a humidifier terminal. (Nor do the wiring diagrams for the
> humidistat). The most it seems to say about it is "Select models of fan
> centers include humidifier taps so the current sensing realy or sail
switch
> is not needed.
>
> The fan motor control (Honeywell printed on circuit board) for my furnace
> (Armstrong Air Ultra SX 93 High Eff.) has one terminal marked "HUM". Is
this
> all that is used, or is there a second terminal used with this?
>
> The single terminal doesn't make sense to me. Should there be a second
> terminal with the "HUM" so that between the two, it's opening and closing
> the circuit connected to them? The one marked "HUM" is just single spade
> terminal. Next to it is one marked "EAC" (elec. air cleaner?), and next
are
> two marked "N".
The "HUM" terminal is 110v so you will need a transformer for the
humidifier.
Most Humidifiers come with one in the box.
It all depends on how you want the humidifier to work. If you just want it
to
work with Heat, hook one wire up from the load side of the humidifier
transformer
to HUM and one to N. That will power the Humidifier when there is a call for
heat.
If you want the Humidifier to run with the fan only (which means you have to
have
the Humidifier hookup to Hot Water, Cold water will not humidify during fan
only
cycle), hook one wire to EAC and the other to N. That will provide power to
the
Humidifier any time the fan comes on. This is the prefered methode for most
customers as this will keep the humidity up in the home, where as only
running in
the heat mode usally doesn't provide enough humidity for the home.
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
<jid...@wideclosedeast.com> wrote:
>The "HUM" terminal is 110v so you will need a transformer for the
>humidifier.
>Most Humidifiers come with one in the box.
And installing it would be a hum job, right ?
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~
Please look at http://helpthecritters.com/ , my new domain for helping critters !!!
My personal WWW site is at http://www.pmilligan.net ,
featuring free HVAC, stock market, and other free software
Those who say a thing can not be done
should get out of the way of those
who are actually doing it.
profft
important to know what voltage is at the terminal.
"Keith Carlson" <kcarls...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:wGYE9.143408$NH2.10473@sccrnsc01...
Keith Carlson
heard of Armstrong Air, but that must be the brand. The fan motor control
appears to be made by Honeywell.
I can always probe that terminal with my DVM when the fan is running and see
if it's 24V or 120V. If it's a 24V terminal, is that AC or DC? (want to put
the meter on the right setting).
"profft" <f.ta...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:tRcF9.6651$Sb....@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
Keith Carlson
I think I just need to do a little testing now. The humidifier has no
transformer included.
It has only:
A 120VAC power cord with standard type of plug for a 15A wall outlet.
A pair of red wires that the instructions say *provide* 24V, only for use
with an electronic humidistat.
A pair of yellow wires that are to be used only with a humidistat switch.
The humidifier came with a mechanical humidistat.
The diagrams in the instructions show the yellow "switch" wires connected to
"HUM" terminals on an electronic humidistat. I don't suppose I'd get lucky
and the "HUM" terminal on the motor control board isn't powered, but only
switches?
If not, I guess I'm stuck using the sail switch, or a current-sensing relay
maybe.
"HVAC Tech" <jid...@wideclosedeast.com> wrote in message
news:8JSdnS8wTLT...@wideopenwest.com...
Noon-Air
<pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:96m9uuc3r8mpsbv1k...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 27 Nov 2002 09:23:39 -0500, "HVAC Tech"
> <jid...@wideclosedeast.com> wrote:
>
> >The "HUM" terminal is 110v so you will need a transformer for the
> >humidifier.
> >Most Humidifiers come with one in the box.
>
> And installing it would be a hum job, right ?
you didn't do it right if it smokes afterwards
Noon-Air
licensed, professionally trained HVAC technician to put this thing in for
you. If you let the factory smoke out of the furnace control board, it can
get real $pendy to get it repaired.
--
Steve @ Noon-Air Heating and A/C
noon...@netdoor.com
Please send my consulting fee of $60.00 (USD) for replying to this message
to;
Noon-Air Heating & Air Conditioning Svc
PO Box 343
Purvis MS 39475
"Keith Carlson" <kcarls...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:UwiF9.161138$1O2.11677@sccrnsc04...
CBHvac
> It has on the side "Armstrong Air Ultra SX 93 High Efficiency". I'd never
> heard of Armstrong Air, but that must be the brand. The fan motor control
> appears to be made by Honeywell.
Never heard of Armstrong....ooooooookay..
>
> I can always probe that terminal with my DVM when the fan is running and
see
> if it's 24V or 120V. If it's a 24V terminal, is that AC or DC? (want to
put
> the meter on the right setting).
>
I agree with Noon-Air..get a guy out that can hook it up for you
correctly...in the amount of time you have spent in there asking questions
that any tech can tell you in seconds in front of your unit, he could have
hooked 5 or 6 up..
Keith Carlson
I always have to laugh at guys on some of these NG who don't think
homeowners can do anything.
I appreciate the advice, but here's what I think my questions indicate: I
ask stupid questions so I won't DO something stupid. I ask and read and look
until I understand, and if after some point I still don't understand, then I
hire someone. Most of the time I can figure it out.
Care to explain how connecting a voltmeter to a terminal is going to "smoke"
the control board?
"Noon-Air" <noon...@netdoor.com> wrote in message
news:tq2cnV7qT_B...@netdoor.com...
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
<kcarls...@mchsi.com> wrote:
>Dude, your sig says it all... send me the $$$.
>I always have to laugh at guys on some of these NG who don't think
>homeowners can do anything.
Voice of experience.
>I appreciate the advice, but here's what I think my questions indicate: I
>ask stupid questions so I won't DO something stupid.
Gee, and all these years I've tried to ask *smart*
questions....
>Care to explain how connecting a voltmeter to a terminal is going to "smoke"
>the control board?
Try letting the probe touch ground and something hot, and then
get back to us.
Keith Carlson
meter with care. I got it now.
<pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:kd0euu4s9205lktve...@4ax.com...
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
On Fri, 29 Nov 2002 23:42:02 GMT, "Keith Carlson"
Keith Carlson
Thanks again to others who gave advice.
<pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:hr1guuo95ptquq0dh...@4ax.com...
CBHvac
Before you go off and think us all assholes..(even though we all are..)
understand that NO ONE here knows what you are capable of and with the
questions you were asking, it looks like you are capable of a lot less...no
insult..just fact.
Everyone here will tell you there are some HVAC guys that dont need to be in
the field, and there are some homeowners that are pretty sharp...but...we
hae no way of telling from post to post who is what, and who will end up
dead or what.
Now..we could have told you to just wire a contactor, depending on the
voltage of your unit, into the W line, and then control it from
there...thats how I hooked up my 220VAC humidifier on my York, that didnt
come with a HUM term...and its cheap, and easy, and works, and wont screw up
the anticipation in the stat...and all that good stuff...BUT, no one here
knows if you know what terminals to use...or if you would use a SPDT
contactor...or if you know that you can also use a peanut relay...etc, etc,
etc....
There is a reason for the cold replies..no pun intended..no one, including
me, wants to be reponsible for you frying, or screwing up something, and
then you or your widow finding out who gave you the advice, and popping up
with a lawsuit..and if you think it cant happen..think again.
The BEST advice anyone can give you is to call someone trained...and again,
I stand by previous statements...in the time it took you to post...you could
have had it done..and working. Some I guess, its worth it to some to wait,
and wonder..
"Keith Carlson" <kcarls...@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:eXSF9.179231$1O2.12092@sccrnsc04...
bori...@gmail.com
1st scenario(2-wire ACC+/ACC-) ecobee3 will short two terminals internally to complete the loop for the secondary(24VAC) to activate the humidifier.
2nd scenario(1-wire ACC+) ecobee3 will send its own 24VAC to activate humidifier.
Any thoughts?
Thank you.
