Looking for specs on ole Rheem AC
The L & P Construction Company
- 1992. It is a model RACC-024JAS High Effiency Air Conditioner.
The reason I'm asking is that it seems the Air Conditioner is just
barely able to keep up... It will do ok keeping the house at a constant
temperature on a 85 degree day and may be able to even drop the temp in
the house by about a degree per hour. But, if it is 90+ outside the air
conditioner has trouble keeping the house at a constant temp.
I believe when the Air Conditioner installed in the early 90's the house
was probably around 800 square feet, then later an addition was added so
the square footage went upto about 1400 square feet.
There is also a cutoff switch on the unit where the power co can shut us
off for periods of time on peak demand days. I think they say they are
only supposed to shut it off 15 minutes out of every hour, but I think
I've seen them do it more frequently then that.
I would also be willing to bet that the thing has never been serviced
since it was installed. (We bought the house in 1998)
So, I was wondering if this model of AC has the ability to cool 1300 sq
feet?
Thanks!
--
Pat Kelly - Minister of Leaves
Royal order of Tresscott
http://www.visi.com/~pwkelly
http://www.familytreemaker.com/users/k/e/l/Patrick-W-Kelly/index.html
Ouija1
I would suggest a clean and check (outdoor and indoor coils) and the blower
squirrel cage before jumping to any conclusions on this one.
The condenser coil is probably partially blocked, you can't tell by looking
at it due to the louvered cabinet design. My money is on the condenser coil
cleaning though.
The "energy manager" enables the power co. to shut the O/D unit down during
"peak periods". These peak periods are usually defined as during the
business day when temps reach 90ºF or above. You can achieve similar savings
by increasing the t-stat setpoint a few degrees whenever you are not home.
Personally I like having control over my own system, I decide when it's time
to raise or lower the inside temp in my home, to each his own......
"The L & P Construction Company" <pwk...@yuck.net> wrote in message
news:3B4CCF99...@yuck.net...
Big Dog
clean the condenser coil? Take the fan off and blast it from the inside out
with high pressure water hose or what? Is there a chemical cleaner you can
spray on it and then clean it? Thanks for any comments!
David H.
"Ouija1" <oui...@telocity.comnospam> wrote in message
news:qS437.9241$h6.29...@newsrump.sjc.telocity.net...
Vicki
that chemically foam the dirt out from the inside out are
only sold to professionals.
Do not blast your coil inside out or outside in. You'll
flatten heat-transfer surfaces and then you *will* have
problems.
Vicki
Iove doII
>From: "Big Dog" dave181...@swbell.net
>Date: 7/11/2001 6:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time
>Message-id: <PE637.285$3H2....@nnrp3.sbc.net>
>
>I also have a Rheem 1992 3 ton Heat Pump Unit. What is the best way to
>clean the condenser coil? Take the fan off and blast it from the inside out
>with high pressure water hose or what? Is there a chemical cleaner you can
>spray on it and then clean it? Thanks for any comments!
>
>David H.
>
Your car? The most cost effective way to wash your condenser is with city
water from the garden hose. Forget the nozzle, use your thumb partially over
the end of the hose. Turn the unit off. Hose it once a month. Squirt the
water up inside the louvers. When the water runs clean out the bottom, you're
good to go. A little wax on the painted sheetmetal will add pride of
ownership.
Coil cleaners tend to "etch" the aluminum fins, removing aluminum as well as
dirt. Chemical coil cleaners are for people who are too lazy or cheap to clean
their coils on a regular basis. They are also a fantasic way to generate
revenue. I can get $700.00 out of a $5 gallon bottle of concentrated coil
cleaner.
Vicki
>
> Coil cleaners tend to "etch" the aluminum fins, removing aluminum as well as
> dirt. Chemical coil cleaners are for people who are too lazy or cheap to clean
> their coils on a regular basis. They are also a fantasic way to generate
> revenue. I can get $700.00 out of a $5 gallon bottle of concentrated coil
> cleaner.
I beg to differ here. I have read that more than once, but
never, ever seen that happen. Ever. And I have used those
cleaners on hundreds of coils. I even mix them 1:1 instead
of the weaker suggested mixture.
I worked at a hospital back in the late eighties for five
years, where Servicemaster ran the maintenance program.
This program required that the coils on ALL air conditioners
be cleaned quarterly. Water alone doesn't cut it when
you're talking hospital. I did probably four dozen package
units and twenty or so PTAC's as the hospital also owned
adjacent medical buildings...sized from 1 to 25 HP. I also
cleaned the hot and chilled water coils in the air handlers
for, f'rinstance, the O.R. and O.B. Four times a year,
sometimes more in areas like intensive care. (That area can
stink!)
I used Rectorseal's acid (pink) coil cleaner all that time,
and you can figure that each coil got cleaned at least
twenty times. The pink contained a brightener, as does the
NuCalgon coil cleaner I use now, which is alkali instead of
acid.
I *never* saw *any* deterioration of the aluminum fins in
*any* coils that I cleaned. If you don't use a foaming coil
cleaner like the NuCalgon NuBrite, you're only pushing the
dirt back inside of the coil. The foaming detergent coil
cleaners push this stuff out in a way that you are never
going to do with just soap and water or water alone. And
when I finish cleaning a coil, by golly, you KNOW that it is
clean. It even LOOKS clean. I suggest you take an amp draw
on a unit before and after cleaning the coils with a
brightener; you'll have a tangible energy savings.
I don't know what you're paying $5 a bottle for, but decent
foaming brighteners run about twice that much. Oh -- and
don't forget to wear gloves unless you like pain.
<Sigh.> Seems like it takes a woman to clean things the
right way any more.
Vicki
Default User
be a good idea to hire an AC guy to clean the coils, check the
charge, and install a TXV, if it doesn't have one. Also install a
high efficiency air filter in the furnace.
--
Christopher A. Young
We survived Y2K, but will we survive Y2C?
This Y2C is what they are enduring in California: Survivalist
situations caused by the government regulating business and
preventing the free market forces from working.
"The L & P Construction Company" <pwk...@yuck.net> wrote in
message news:3B4CCF99...@yuck.net...
Lannie Schafroth
house will freeze you out if you want it too! :) I use a 2 degree change
while the family is away during the day and have it come back down just
before anyone arrives.
"Ouija1" <oui...@telocity.comnospam> wrote in message
news:qS437.9241$h6.29...@newsrump.sjc.telocity.net...
2001
> <Sigh.> Seems like it takes a woman to clean things the
> right way any more.
>
>
> Vicki
ROTFLMHO!
Robert Gracie
Arthur
ducts as well. I would start with a air conditioning/heating calculation to
see what is required for the affected area. Than see what unit would be
needed to meet this calculation. If you don't know how to do this
calculation then get a qualified AC contractor to come out & do it, as well
as give u an estimate to go to a larger unit. A larger unit could very well
entail new ducts, new refrigerant line, needs a good survey by someone who
knows what they are doing.
Hope this helps,
Arthur
"The L & P Construction Company" <pwk...@yuck.net> wrote in message
news:3B4CCF99...@yuck.net...
J. S. Nunes
I know of some techs(?) who can get 150lbs out of a 30 lb can of R-22
"Vicki" <vic...@usa.net> wrote in message news:3B4D17BB...@usa.net...
J. S. Nunes
> - 1992. It is a model RACC-024JAS High Effiency Air Conditioner.
If it was installed properly, it is supposed to be 8 SEER
> The reason I'm asking is that it seems the Air Conditioner is just
> barely able to keep up... It will do ok keeping the house at a constant
> temperature on a 85 degree day and may be able to even drop the temp in
> the house by about a degree per hour. But, if it is 90+ outside the air
> conditioner has trouble keeping the house at a constant temp.
You don't say where you are located
> I believe when the Air Conditioner installed in the early 90's the house
> was probably around 800 square feet, then later an addition was added so
> the square footage went upto about 1400 square feet.
When the addition was built, did you have a heat load calc done?? what were
the recomendations then??
> There is also a cutoff switch on the unit where the power co can shut us
> off for periods of time on peak demand days. I think they say they are
> only supposed to shut it off 15 minutes out of every hour, but I think
> I've seen them do it more frequently then that.
Was it the power company??? or was the system cycling off on the
thermostat??
> I would also be willing to bet that the thing has never been serviced
> since it was installed. (We bought the house in 1998)
This should be your FIRST step.... get it cleaned and serviced by a
reputable HVAC contractor
then see how it performs. at the same time you might want to talk to him/her
about upgrading your system to a minimum of 12 SEER.....They should do the
heat load calc as part of the quote/bidding process.
> So, I was wondering if this model of AC has the ability to cool 1300 sq
> feet?
Not in this neck of the woods... but I can't see through my 'puter where you
live
> Thanks!
Your welcome :-)
> --
> Pat Kelly - Minister of Leaves
> Royal order of Tresscott
>
> http://www.visi.com/~pwkelly
> http://www.familytreemaker.com/users/k/e/l/Patrick-W-Kelly/index.html
--
Steve @ NOON-AIR
Heating and Air Conditioning Service
Purvis MS
jsn...@netdoor.com
Noon...@excite.com
Top Quality Service
Top Quality Equipment
Cheap Prices
Pick any TWO!!!
>
Trip Wire
> I know of some techs(?) who can get 150lbs out of a 30 lb can of R-22
Graduates of the loaves and fishes school of refigeration repair? (LOL)
Richard
in the past there were some not so good cleaners on the market. I don't
know what they were, but for evidence of their use come by and visit our
facilities. I've already mentioned the chiller coils to you, the worst
and apparently the most frequently cleaned of the other units that
predate my tenure here. Of the cleaners that we use now the only
noticeable bad side effect is an occasional nose bleed. Be like Clinton,
don't inhale:-)
Richard
Richard
Default User wrote:
>
> Before you spend a lot of money on replacing the system, it would
> be a good idea to hire an AC guy to clean the coils, check the
> charge, and install a TXV, if it doesn't have one. Also install a
> high efficiency air filter in the furnace.
I'll agree that a thorough inspection is at the top of the list, but
installing a TXV, and a high efficiency air filter? I'm not about
knocking peoples ideas but I don't see it. However I'm always interested
in learning. Maybe you see some advantage here that I'm missing. Care to
elaborate?
Richard
The L & P Construction Company
"J. S. Nunes" wrote:
> "The L & P Construction Company" <pwk...@yuck.net> wrote in message
> news:3B4CCF99...@yuck.net...
> > I was looking for some specs on a Rheem Air Conditioner made around 1991
> > - 1992. It is a model RACC-024JAS High Effiency Air Conditioner.
>
> If it was installed properly, it is supposed to be 8 SEER
>
> > The reason I'm asking is that it seems the Air Conditioner is just
> > barely able to keep up... It will do ok keeping the house at a constant
> > temperature on a 85 degree day and may be able to even drop the temp in
> > the house by about a degree per hour. But, if it is 90+ outside the air
> > conditioner has trouble keeping the house at a constant temp.
>
> You don't say where you are located
Minneapolis, MN
>
>
> > I believe when the Air Conditioner installed in the early 90's the house
> > was probably around 800 square feet, then later an addition was added so
> > the square footage went upto about 1400 square feet.
>
> When the addition was built, did you have a heat load calc done?? what were
> the recomendations then??
The addition was built in 1994 by the previous owner. I would be willing to bet
that they never considered the AC requirements when they put the addition on.
>
>
> > There is also a cutoff switch on the unit where the power co can shut us
> > off for periods of time on peak demand days. I think they say they are
> > only supposed to shut it off 15 minutes out of every hour, but I think
> > I've seen them do it more frequently then that.
>
> Was it the power company??? or was the system cycling off on the
> thermostat??
I double checked on the "saver switch", when engaged by the power co. they cycle
the condenser off every 15 minutes! I thought it was 15 minutes out of every
hour...
>
>
> > I would also be willing to bet that the thing has never been serviced
> > since it was installed. (We bought the house in 1998)
>
> This should be your FIRST step.... get it cleaned and serviced by a
> reputable HVAC contractor
> then see how it performs. at the same time you might want to talk to him/her
> about upgrading your system to a minimum of 12 SEER.....They should do the
> heat load calc as part of the quote/bidding process.
>
> > So, I was wondering if this model of AC has the ability to cool 1300 sq
> > feet?
>
> Not in this neck of the woods... but I can't see through my 'puter where you
> live
>
> --
> Steve @ NOON-AIR
> Heating and Air Conditioning Service
> Purvis MS
> jsn...@netdoor.com
> Noon...@excite.com
>
> Top Quality Service
> Top Quality Equipment
> Cheap Prices
>
> Pick any TWO!!!
>
> >
Thanks Steve!
Don Ocean
"J. S. Nunes" wrote:
> Vicki,
> I know of some techs(?) who can get 150lbs out of a 30 lb can of R-22
We learned that from the Lawyers who work a 20 hour week and charge for 120
hours!!
Matter of fact we are kinda thinking about sending Jabs to-em to upgrade the
groups
billing methods..;-)
KingRatBastid
>>> Damn I need to hire Vicki as a coil cleaning expert...hehe...hats
off to ya Vicki!! Oh and is THAT what that burning sensation on my
hands is??? hehe... got all these expensive tools to do my job and i
forget the simple shit...like gloves..hehe ...King
richard p dawson
unless there is absolutely no way to rinse
i mix it 1-1 and when the customer see's that crap come foaming
out of the coil, they are tickled to pay for the solution and the time
to clean it
profft
"richard p dawson" <rda...@shout.net> wrote in message
news:3B6531BE...@shout.net...
> i wont use anything but "nubrite"
> unless there is absolutely no way to rinse
> i mix it 1-1 and when the customer see's that crap come foaming
> out of the coil, they are tickled to pay for the solution and the time
> to clean it
>
> KingRatBastid wrote:
I like the R.E.Michels REM-604. It's blue, Non-Acid, contains
sodium-hydroxide, really boils out the grease and imbedded particles, then I
take softbrass brushes to get the stuff deposited on the surface so I don't
crush the fins. A 1/3 solution does a great job, a lot better than the
normal green stuff which don't cut squat. If it's a deluxe job I'll squirt
it down with some Nubrite HD cleaner afterwards, you know the one for EAC's
and cost's about $22 a jug, it actually does something and leaves a sweet
smell in the air.
Vicki
profft wrote:
> I like the R.E.Michels REM-604. It's blue, Non-Acid, contains
> sodium-hydroxide, really boils out the grease and imbedded particles,
Same stuff NuBrite has in it. AKA lye.
then I
> take softbrass brushes to get the stuff deposited on the surface so I don't
> crush the fins. A 1/3 solution does a great job, a lot better than the
> normal green stuff which don't cut squat. If it's a deluxe job I'll squirt
> it down with some Nubrite HD cleaner afterwards, you know the one for EAC's
> and cost's about $22 a jug, it actually does something and leaves a sweet
> smell in the air.
You mean CalClean HD. There is no Nubrite HD. I like
CalClean in the aerosol can -- cleans and degreases almost
anything.
Vicki
profft
stuff and actually cleans something. I only use the green to wet the coil
down, makes the dust and fuzzies much easier to remove with a brass brush.
"Vicki" <vic...@usa.net> wrote in message news:3B6A20BE...@usa.net...
wouter scheffer
for heat exchangers. From about 15 years of experience we have
de-oxidation and cleaning protocols avaialble. If you require detailed
information you can drop me an email. Wouter