Apollo Hydroheat problem
EJ
had 3 different contractors out over the past 2 years and none have been
able to fix it, much less identify what is wrong other than the air
temperature is not hot enough.
The system is 14 years old, and I am thinking it is past its day, and time
to replace. I won't be replacing it with another one, most likely switch to
a gas furnace.
If anyone knows anything about repairing the Apollo, before I plunk down
money for a new HVAC system, I want to make sure I have exhausted all
possible easy fixes. I don't plan to stay in the house more than another
year or two.
Symptoms: Air temperature coming out of the ducts goes from 65-85 in about
8 minutes, then it starts dropping off quickly and finally settles at about
75 degrees. This is not warm enough to heat the house. The hot water
heater is new, and everything has been flushed through the furnace portion.
Everything was clear. The temperature going into the furnace is 110 and
returning at 85, within specs according to the repairman. The duct
temperature coming out at the furnace is only 75.
All the repair men have said they would be guessing on how to fix, one has
said its the pump, another has said, no the pump either works or it doesn't.
The water heater temperature is 140. Can't go much hotter without making
indoor water too hot. Also, don't have a thermal expansion tank, so turning
it up hotter just makes it pressure release on the floor.
Ellen
EJ
Abby Normal
Do your ducts pass through a non heated area like an attic?
Are your ducts insulated?
What is the air handler (furnace) model number?
What is the make and model of the water heater?
Is the air handler close to the water heater?
Are you on a well? Do you have hard water?
Is there a mixing valve tempering down the water to 110?
EJ wrote in message <0qNw7.71825$0x.26...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com>...
EJ
I have been cold for a few years.
The air ducts are under the house where the unit is. Always pretty warm
under there.
Not sure if they are insulated, don't know how to tell. (repairman did check
termperture of air at the unit before the air went into the ducts. Did this
by punching a small hole in the metal and then inserted wire that hooked up
to his temp reader. Then taped hole up.
Model HB30241G M87416825 (this was on my paperwork, don't know exactly
what it refers to) Model is 1987 year.
Air handler is under house, hot water is in a shed off the deck. Probably
about 30 feet from one another.
City water
Not sure about a mixing valve, don't think so because a plumber talked about
installing one so that the water going into the house wouldn't have to be as
hot as water going to the air handler. Didn't have it done though.
"Abby Normal" <a_bee_...@spamyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10026785...@RedRat.CandW.ky...
BGBevill
>> >returning at 85, within specs according to the repairman. The duct
>> >temperature coming out at the furnace is only 75.
>> >All the repair men have said they would be guessing on how to fix, one
>has
>> >said its the pump, another has said, no the pump either works or it
>> doesn't.
>> >The water heater temperature is 140. Can't go much hotter without making
>> >indoor water too hot.
Are you saying the water temp going into the coil is only 110º with the water
heater temp 140º? Is the water losing 30ºbefore it gets to the coil?
I used to service many of these units and had one eat my lunch until I changed
the pump. I really didn't see any way it could be the pump, but changing it
cured the problem. Also, if the check valves in the water heater aren't
installed and working correctly you could have a similiar problem.
Bobby
AUSTIN1880
>Symptoms: Air temperature coming out of the ducts goes from 65-85 in about
>8 minutes, then it starts dropping off quickly and finally settles at about
>75 degrees. This is not warm enough to heat the house. The hot water
>heater is new, and everything has been flushed through the furnace portion.
>Everything was clear. The temperature going into the furnace is 110 and
>returning at 85, within specs according to the repairman. The duct
>temperature coming out at the furnace is only 75.
>All the repair men have said they would be guessing on how to fix, one has
>said its the pump, another has said, no the pump either works or it doesn't.
>The water heater temperature is 140. Can't go much hotter without making
>indoor water too hot. Also, don't have a thermal expansion tank, so turning
>it up hotter just makes it pressure release on the floor.
>
>Ellen
>
>
I dont think your passing enough water through the coil. I had an apartment
complex full of those things and it usually turned out to be a blockage near
the hot water tank. Look closely at the check valves near the tank.
Ed
EJ
140, but that is according to the dial. Could have a bad thermastat on the
tank perhaps. If the dial is correct, then I am dropping 30degrees before
the furnace.
Anyone know what the true temperature should be going into the exchanger?
"BGBevill" <bgbe...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20011009225659...@mb-ch.aol.com...
Larry Kapigian
or so ) if its more than that, you have a water flow problem. if its less than
that your not picking up the heat. I have seen water coils ( and dx) installed
wrong ( parallel flow instead of counter flow) If you water temp is 140 and your
R/A is 70 you should have roughly 105 leaving air.
Larry
