Flame sensor - please help
Blue
last December and it was fine all winter. Now it's cold again and I have no
heat. The board again flashes 34 after it lights the burners for about 10
seconds. I checked the flame sensor and getting a dead .000 reading on DCmv
between the hot end of the sensor and the ground end where the installation
screw goes. Here are my questions:
1.) Why am I going through flame sensors?
2.)How can I bypass the sensor to get a little heat in the house over the
weekend? I will stay with the furnace while it's running to avoid
catastrophe 8)
3.) Is a $25 aftermarket replacement equivalent to the $65 Carrier
replacement?
4.) Anyone need cold beer? You could store it here for a few hours til I
get this worked out.
Thank you very much for your help.
Tony Hwang
Did you clean it? Rub it well with emery cloth and try again.
Blue
"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:7LQzm.61148$j34....@newsfe01.iad...
I used some 600 grit paper on it. It doesn't "look" like a part that could
malfunction really. It just looks like a straight rod soldered on to a
blade. I'm not sure what's inside the ceramic though, something must
generate current. Thank you Tony, I will try cleaning it more thoroughly
and see if that helps.
Stormin Mormon
1.) Why am I going through flame sensors?
SM: Might be some contaminant in the natural gas.
2.)How can I bypass the sensor to get a little heat in the
house over the
weekend? I will stay with the furnace while it's running to
avoid
catastrophe 8)
SM: I've done that, but for liability reasons, I'm not going
to tell how.
3.) Is a $25 aftermarket replacement equivalent to the $65
Carrier
replacement?
SM: I doubt it.
4.) Anyone need cold beer? You could store it here for a
few hours til I
get this worked out.
SM: That's a kind offer. Make mine diet Coke.
Blue
installed. I can understand your reasoning on #2, people in our society are
always looking for someone else to blame for their mistakes and
shortcomings. Diet Coke it is!
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:haorui$9fo$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Stormin Mormon
evening when I needed a part that I didn't have, and the
stores were closed. The house was cold, so I changed a few
things, to be able to put some heat into the house. Not
proud of doing something that dangerous, but it was cold.
Sigh.
Thanks for the diet Coke. Here's best wishes, that your
flame sensor starts working again.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Blue" <bl...@muddywaters.net> wrote in message
news:941a7$4acff635$4b5b73e7$76...@ALLTEL.NET...
gerry
On Fri, 9 Oct 2009 22:49:22 -0400, "Blue" <bl...@muddywaters.net> wrote:
>Thank you SM. I failed to mention that the furnace was converted to LP when
>installed. I can understand your reasoning on #2, people in our society are
>always looking for someone else to blame for their mistakes and
>shortcomings. Diet Coke it is!
Incorrect adjustments after the conversion may be causing the flame not
to be properly contacting the sensor. Either orifice size or air
adjustment could be out of whack. Someone with direct experience with
that sensor system needs to check it out.
Also, one delivery of dirty LP can mess you up for a long time!
gerry
--
Personal home page - http://gogood.com
gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots
Ghan
Thank you with cold beers
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/hvac/flame-sensor-please-help-38653-.htm
Turd Ferguson
> Hello Stormin Mormon, I have the same problem . there is no current
> in my flame sensor wire. can you tell me your trick for bypass a
> flame sensor for proving house before the new control board to deliver
> to me 4 days late.
> Thank you with cold beers
>