Opinions Please. Trane XL1800
AWRM
XV90 and XL1800 system. Right now I have a Rheem 100,000 btu Criterion and
3ton10 seer Rheem a/c with scroll comp. The system works great. Very even
temp on first and second floors and very good air flow. Whoever designed
the ductwork actually thought about it and did a good job. My only complaint
is the humidity removal during the summer. The unit is charged correctly,
the fan is on Med/High and my TD across the a/coil is 16/18 deg. I have to
set the temp down to 72/73 deg to feel comfortable in the house.
I think the Trane two stage heating and cooling system with the comfort R
feature will work great but I am leery about the XL1800's reliability. Have
any of you seen any problems with this unit?
I'm also open to suggestions about my current system.
Thanks for your time,
---RCM78
AUSTIN1880
>Subject: Opinions Please. Trane XL1800
>From: "AWRM" aw...@optonline.net
>Date: 1/12/01 3:25 PM Central Standard Time
>Message-id: <jDK76.14746$nj5.1...@news02.optonline.net>
I've only sold a few of these units myself, but had no problems as of yet. Nor
have I heard of any problems. The variable speed is nice for humidity removal,
plus it's quiet.
Ed
Iove doII
>Message-id: <jDK76.14746$nj5.1...@news02.optonline.net>
Unless you just have money to burn, stay with your current system. Tranes
XL1800 series is being upgraded to the non CFC refrigerant, due out late this
fall.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with your system, and with moderate
maintenance it should last you many years.
But, if you're the kinda guy who has to have the latest and greatest, well
sure, upgrade !!
AWRM
Thats why I'm kinda tossing the idea around.
---RCM78
"AUSTIN1880" <austi...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010112201938...@ng-mj1.aol.com...
AWRM
Maybe I can just add a time delay relay to the cooling speed output on the
board to power low speed for let's say 10 minutes and then switch back to
Med/High. That might help huh?
---RCM78
"Iove doII" <iove...@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20010112221912...@ng-cu1.aol.com...
TURTLE
"AWRM" <aw...@optonline.net> wrote:
> No money to burn here!!! I'm a working man. I am a gadget freak
though :).
> Maybe I can just add a time delay relay to the cooling speed output
on the
> board to power low speed for let's say 10 minutes and then switch
back to
> Med/High. That might help huh?
>
> ---RCM78
>
This is turtle.
How about tring it on Medium speed which will split the middle and
forget about it.
TURTLE
Everyday is my first day in the business.
Got my e-mail address back as above .
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
John Mills
>
> My home is just about two years old and I'm thinking of upgrading to a Trane
> XV90 and XL1800 system. Right now I have a Rheem 100,000 btu Criterion and
> 3ton10 seer Rheem a/c with scroll comp. The system works great. Very even
> temp on first and second floors and very good air flow. Whoever designed
> the ductwork actually thought about it and did a good job. My only complaint
> is the humidity removal during the summer. The unit is charged correctly,
> the fan is on Med/High and my TD across the a/coil is 16/18 deg. I have to
> set the temp down to 72/73 deg to feel comfortable in the house.
>
> I think the Trane two stage heating and cooling system with the comfort R
> feature will work great but I am leery about the XL1800's reliability. Have
> any of you seen any problems with this unit?
Never sold a XL1800/Allegiance 16 (way too pricey!) but have sold the
variable speed indoor systems including my own. I have the comfort R
switched on. My summer humidity stays in the 55-60% range with standard
single speed outdoor unit. Actually it is a Rheem product! We can get
pretty humid here although not like the gulf states.
You say blower is on MH. Which furnace? The RGPH10EA... has a 3 ton
blower so MH is just shy of 3 tons. That would be good for moisture
removal. The RGPH10EB... has a 5 ton blower so MH would be way too much
air and hurt moisture removal. One other possiblity to remove more
moisture at an affordable price is have a TXV kit installed on that
indoor coil. The TXV helps to make sure the entire coil stays cold which
sucks more humidity. The RAKA-037JAZ is pretty decent at moisture
removal already compared to many out there.
--
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AWRM
My furnace is an RGPH-10EBRJR. According to the installation book the unit
will produce 1150 CFM on med/high with .1 static. Mine has .08 static.
The TXV is a great idea!!! I'm going to install one before the summer.
Thanks for your reply,
---RCM78
"John Mills" <jmil...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3A6056...@home.com...
AWRM
to hurt airflow to the second floor.
---RCM78
"TURTLE" <tur...@worldnetla.net> wrote in message
news:93ou1f$uqj$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
John Mills
>
> John,
> My furnace is an RGPH-10EBRJR. According to the installation book the unit
> will produce 1150 CFM on med/high with .1 static. Mine has .08 static.
> The TXV is a great idea!!! I'm going to install one before the summer.
> Thanks for your reply,
> ---RCM78
Medium high on that thing is 1845 CFM at .5 total static pressure
(supply, return, filter, coil). Rheem says if you move more than 1800
CFM, use both side of furnace or bottom for return air. Few do. But
moving that kind of air on a 3 ton system is going to have an adverse
affect on moisture removal. If you prefer the airflow to latent
capacity, leave it alone. But that is really out of line.
amul...@my-deja.com
the blower at the minimum speed that won't ice up the evaporator. As
someone suggested, you might consider installing a TVX if your system
doesn't have one now. This can help keep the evap at minimum temp w/o
icing. If you get into this, I would see that the system has a head
pressure cutout and an icing detector of some kind. You don't want to
slug the compressor with liquid or beat it up with excessive pressures.
A traditional but wasteful approach is to reheat with strip heaters.
am
Iove doII
>slug the compressor with liquid or beat it up with excessive pressures.
How does one go about slugging a scroll compressor?
amul...@my-deja.com
With liquid refrigerant. Their tolerance is high, but not infinite (as
I understand it).
John Mills
Scrolls will tolerate liquid better than a recip but eventually it will
do them in. Slugging can wash out the lubricant causing a lockup. We had
a case a few years ago where a Copeland scroll died the first night it
was installed. Replaced it and had a no cool the 2nd night. Found the
fan board bad causing the indoor blower to quit and a nice freezeup.
Fortunately the 2nd night we didn't lose the compressor.