Replacing a dying? Comfortmaker with Trane XLi 19 with XV90
Mark
BTU Furnace. We bought the house in May of '02 and this was original
(house built May 1992) to the house.
Since we arrived home from vacation last week, our A/c unit has been
acting up. It wouldn't cool our home when started back up after our
trip, leaving our home at a steamy 82 deg! After letting it rest for
a couple days, we did get it to work for a few days, but then it shut
down again. Yesterday, we had about 2 gallons of water leak from
what I think was the air handler (evap coil?). Does this sound like a
dying A/c unit or just one that needs attention?
Details of home:
- 2850 sq' colonial home
- 1000 sq' basement in process or being finished
- Top floor much warmer in summer and much cooler in winter (by about
8 deg)
This leads me to a couple of questions:
1. Can the Comformaker be salvaged or should it be? I have heard bad
things about them. Parts being expensive and that they aren't all
that reliable.
2. Does it pay to put in the XLi 19 which would require us to trash
the furnace and put in a variable speed air handler (we are cosidering
the XV90) or do we just go for single stage unit and mate it to the
Comfortmaker?
3. How much should we expect to pay for the XLi 19 and XV90 installed?
(Considering no add'l special work).
4. Should we expect to save a lot on gas and electric bill. I think
the unit we have now is 10 Seer and furnace, probably 80% efficient
(if that).
5. If zoning is recommended would you go the route of 2 units or
having dampers installed. Getting the upstairs as comfortable as the
first level is the most importand factor to us.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions anyone could provide!
Thanks - Mark
TURTLE
"Mark" <mdra...@us.imshealth.com> wrote in message
news:b1d463ae.03082...@posting.google.com...
This is Turtle.
Stop right here and get a HVAC service company to tell you what is wrong
with it and then move forward. You can have nothing but a plugged condender
or bad capasitor that is keeping itnot running right. Then fix it and then
have plent of time to decide on new equipment.
TURTLE
Bubba
>Currently, my wife and I have a 3 1/2 ton "Comfortmaker" AC unit & 94k
>BTU Furnace. We bought the house in May of '02 and this was original
>(house built May 1992) to the house.
>
>Since we arrived home from vacation last week, our A/c unit has been
>acting up. It wouldn't cool our home when started back up after our
>trip, leaving our home at a steamy 82 deg! After letting it rest for
>a couple days, we did get it to work for a few days, but then it shut
>down again. Yesterday, we had about 2 gallons of water leak from
>what I think was the air handler (evap coil?). Does this sound like a
>dying A/c unit or just one that needs attention?
Your unit is obviously aging at 11 yrs now but that dont mean diddly.
The years of prior maintenance and current condition will affect your
decision. Have it checked out and evaluated. Go from there.
>Details of home:
>- 2850 sq' colonial home
>- 1000 sq' basement in process or being finished
>- Top floor much warmer in summer and much cooler in winter (by about
>8 deg)
>
>
>This leads me to a couple of questions:
>
>1. Can the Comformaker be salvaged or should it be? I have heard bad
>things about them. Parts being expensive and that they aren't all
>that reliable.
Anything can be salvaged. Money is the key.
>
>2. Does it pay to put in the XLi 19 which would require us to trash
>the furnace and put in a variable speed air handler (we are cosidering
>the XV90) or do we just go for single stage unit and mate it to the
>Comfortmaker?
>
You'll need your HVAC contractor to help you evaluate this.
>3. How much should we expect to pay for the XLi 19 and XV90 installed?
> (Considering no add'l special work).
Get a few bids to find this answer.
>
>4. Should we expect to save a lot on gas and electric bill. I think
>the unit we have now is 10 Seer and furnace, probably 80% efficient
>(if that).
Define a lot? Will the utility company be paying you after you have it
installed? I think not.
>
>5. If zoning is recommended would you go the route of 2 units or
>having dampers installed. Getting the upstairs as comfortable as the
>first level is the most importand factor to us.
I am whole heartedly in favor of 2 systems over 1 system when you have
a second story. Of course, the second floor unit needs to be
accessable (closet, NOT the damn attic) and properly installed. Once
again, price will affect that as a separate system is going to cost
more than using zoning.
Bubba
CBHvac
> BTU Furnace. We bought the house in May of '02 and this was original
> (house built May 1992) to the house.
>
> Since we arrived home from vacation last week, our A/c unit has been
> acting up. It wouldn't cool our home when started back up after our
> trip, leaving our home at a steamy 82 deg! After letting it rest for
> a couple days, we did get it to work for a few days, but then it shut
> down again. Yesterday, we had about 2 gallons of water leak from
> what I think was the air handler (evap coil?). Does this sound like a
> dying A/c unit or just one that needs attention?
First, letting it rest?
Sounds like, in all honesty...you dont need a new unit...unless you really,
really, really want one. I know today that there were several that would
have killed for one when it got to 105F in the house...of course..today was
a nice 89% RH day too.....till that thunderstorm hit and popped us to about
99% and 100F...
Get someone out that can look it over and diagnose what is wrong and go from
there.
>
> Details of home:
> - 2850 sq' colonial home
> - 1000 sq' basement in process or being finished
> - Top floor much warmer in summer and much cooler in winter (by about
> 8 deg)
>
>
> This leads me to a couple of questions:
>
> 1. Can the Comformaker be salvaged or should it be? I have heard bad
> things about them. Parts being expensive and that they aren't all
> that reliable.
Bad things are said about all units that are not working right, and then,
those that suddenly find out that those years of neglect have taken their
toll....
>
> 2. Does it pay to put in the XLi 19 which would require us to trash
> the furnace and put in a variable speed air handler (we are cosidering
> the XV90) or do we just go for single stage unit and mate it to the
> Comfortmaker?
What do you mean pay?
Right now, you are shopping BRAND, and thats WRONG.
>
> 3. How much should we expect to pay for the XLi 19 and XV90 installed?
> (Considering no add'l special work).
Ask your local contractor..and the VS furnace just might need duct
modifications made....
>
> 4. Should we expect to save a lot on gas and electric bill. I think
> the unit we have now is 10 Seer and furnace, probably 80% efficient
> (if that).
Define alot.
>
> 5. If zoning is recommended would you go the route of 2 units or
> having dampers installed. Getting the upstairs as comfortable as the
> first level is the most importand factor to us.
2 story homes, ALWAYS need two units...unless its a reverse split..
Mark
Sorry I was away from my PC for a couple of days and couldn't respond.
This past Saturday, I had a hvac tech out to the house and he said the
evaporator coil was shot and the condenser outside had high head
pressure (300lbs) and is also proably low on freon as well. After
seeing the evap. coil he said he'd recommend me get a new a/c unit.
If I were to fix it he said I'd be looking at about $1500+ for the new
coil and because the unit is about 12yrs old he wouldn't recommend it
doing it. In addition the bottom of where the evap coil is is all
rusted and water is leaking through the furnace onto the basement
floor.
Here are my responses to your advice:
1. For $1500 I am not willing to try and salvage the unit. It is 12
yrs. old and I was told it was also builder's grade. We have been in
the house since May '02 and to be honest I don't think they had it
seviced all that much. The service company they had listed on the
heater only had 1 entry - (Nov '01). I agree, it pays not to neglet
the hvac. You are only asking for trouble if you do!
2. I am now in the process of getting bids. Everyone's recommendation
of 2 units is a point well taken. I am going to try and swing the
cost of 2 units (1 for upstairs & 1 for downstairs). Bubba - where do
your recommend we put the upstairs unit if not in the attic. We have
a linen closet that I could live without upstairs, but not sure if
that is sufficient space (probably 70" x 96" & 2' deep) for the unit.
3. When I asked about saving money I meant that we saved about
$100/mth when we put in a 3 ton Trane XL14 with duct work in our last
house (that's why I like the Trane product) vs. a 15,000 BTU window
unit. I was hoping to lower my utility bills in this new house by
about $100 per month (currently gas & electric around $350) with a
high seer unit.
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>Thanks to Turtle, Bubba & CB HVAC for your advice!
>Sorry I was away from my PC for a couple of days and couldn't respond.
>
>This past Saturday, I had a hvac tech out to the house and he said the
>evaporator coil was shot and the condenser outside had high head
>pressure (300lbs) and is also proably low on freon as well.
My bullshit detector just went off.
The last two are in direct conflict with each other. It's
like saying your car is going too fast because it's out of fuel.
Get another company to come out and diagnose before doing
anything else.
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
New HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's !! http://pmilligan.net/palm/
--
Free superheat charts for 38 Ref's online at http://pmilligan.net/pmtherm/
My personal site is at http://www.pmilligan.net
kjpro
<pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:4vf9lvo02t1vm93r0...@4ax.com...
> >This past Saturday, I had a hvac tech out to the house and he said the
> >evaporator coil was shot and the condenser outside had high head
> >pressure (300lbs) and is also proably low on freon as well.
>
> My bullshit detector just went off.
>
> The last two are in direct conflict with each other. It's
> like saying your car is going too fast because it's out of fuel.
>
> Get another company to come out and diagnose before doing
> anything else.
But........but................BUT, he convinced him he needed a NEW system!!
(so, he's gotta be right!!) :-)
> Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
Just another CON in the making.
At least the OP is getting some other bids.............and didn't just tell
the guy to do IT!
--
kjpro
_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>
( kjpro @ starband . net ) remove spaces to e-mail
Want it done yesterday? Or done right today, to save money tomorrow!!
_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>
Bubba
As Paul said, BIG Bullshit detect-O-meter should be screaming,
"Bullshit, Bullshit, Bullshit".
High head pressure (300psi) and low on freon arent meant to be in the
same sentence."Probably" is not a real good word to use either when
someone is diagnosing your system and recommending you open your
wallet wide.
$1500 is maybe on the high side. Im sure you could find it less
expensive and probably find it done for even more $$.
Builder grade equipment, 12 yrs old, rust, water leak and not
regularly serviced are all "bad" things.
A closet would be the best place to put the indoor furnace or air
handler. Size specifications are readily available. Just make sure all
the service cleareances for the unit and the filter are ALL correct.
Set the ENTIRE unit and ductwork that touch the floor in a secondary
drip pan with a overflow switch and drain. This will save you a big
headache somewhere down the road. Remember, water ALWAYS goes down and
it dont care what is in its patch such as hardwood floors, plaster
ceilings, expensive wall paper, light fixtures, etc.
Due to the bullshit meter going off, you may wish to get another bid.
Bubba
CBHvac
> Thanks to Turtle, Bubba & CB HVAC for your advice!
> Sorry I was away from my PC for a couple of days and couldn't respond.
>
> This past Saturday, I had a hvac tech out to the house and he said the
> evaporator coil was shot and the condenser outside had high head
> pressure (300lbs) and is also proably low on freon as well. After
> seeing the evap. coil he said he'd recommend me get a new a/c unit.
> If I were to fix it he said I'd be looking at about $1500+ for the new
> coil and because the unit is about 12yrs old he wouldn't recommend it
> doing it. In addition the bottom of where the evap coil is is all
> rusted and water is leaking through the furnace onto the basement
> floor.
Mark...man...you are about to get fucked and fucked harder than you can
imagine.
As you have been told, high head, and low charge, DO NOT GO
TOGETHER!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Here are my responses to your advice:
>
> 1. For $1500 I am not willing to try and salvage the unit. It is 12
> yrs. old and I was told it was also builder's grade. We have been in
> the house since May '02 and to be honest I don't think they had it
> seviced all that much. The service company they had listed on the
> heater only had 1 entry - (Nov '01). I agree, it pays not to neglet
> the hvac. You are only asking for trouble if you do!
Start looking for ANOTHER company to bid on the job...tell that last guy
thanks...but no thanks...and hit the fucking road...
>
> 2. I am now in the process of getting bids. Everyone's recommendation
> of 2 units is a point well taken. I am going to try and swing the
> cost of 2 units (1 for upstairs & 1 for downstairs). Bubba - where do
> your recommend we put the upstairs unit if not in the attic. We have
> a linen closet that I could live without upstairs, but not sure if
> that is sufficient space (probably 70" x 96" & 2' deep) for the unit.
Not Bubba, but his info in his post is dead on...
>
> 3. When I asked about saving money I meant that we saved about
> $100/mth when we put in a 3 ton Trane XL14 with duct work in our last
> house (that's why I like the Trane product) vs. a 15,000 BTU window
> unit. I was hoping to lower my utility bills in this new house by
> about $100 per month (currently gas & electric around $350) with a
> high seer unit.
Think 12 or higher, and dont limit yourself to Trane, but DO try to ignore
anyone that says, Goodman, Janitrol, Lennox, or Tappan.
Might think Rheem, Ruud, York, Coleman, Trane, and American Standard.
(ok..I am partial to York..LOL)
kjpro
news:Zgc5b.400$QD3....@eagle.america.net...
> Think 12 or higher,
Where is the OP located??
12 SEER units here.............do not pay for them selves......like maybe in
12-15 yrs.
I don't see much advantage in that!
(now if he's in hotter climate......it's a different story)
> DO try to ignore
> anyone that says, Goodman, Janitrol, Lennox, or Tappan.
Ignore??............run..........Run............RUN Forest RUN!! :-)
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
<webm...@carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote:
>
>"Mark" <mdra...@us.imshealth.com> wrote in message
>news:b1d463ae.03090...@posting.google.com...
>> Thanks to Turtle, Bubba & CB HVAC for your advice!
Your welcome :-(
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
New HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's !! http://pmilligan.net/palm/
Free demo now available online !!!!
Mark
you. You all are like big brothers watching out for me. I appreciate
it!
What's "OP" mean? It's obvious it's referring to me, but I couldn't
figure it out.
Paul, I checked out your web site too. I was surprised to see you are
in CA not N. or S. Carolina! Originally from there? My folks retired
to Murrells Inlet, SC (next to Myrtle Beach). People are reeeaalll
nice down there.
Myself, I am from the Philly area (grew up in Philly). Now my wife,
dog and 2 young boys live in NW outskirts of Philly. If any of you
know any installers that you would please e-mail some info or even
post it here.
Alright, I realized I was in the process of being screwed. Thanks to
all of you I am a little wiser. That's why us homeowners come here.
We never get sugarcoated advice here, just the cold plain facts!
During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
worked at all. What would that combination cause?
I talked to my wife this morning about the advice I gotten so far and
she said that she doesn't want to bother trying to have the unit fixed
(cha-ching for the installers), but now I am very tempted to bring a
second tech, from another company, & get it rediagnosed.
From what I described in my first post, anyone have any ideas on what
maybe wrong. Here's a mini summary of the problem to again...
Summary - a/c wouldn'd kick on after vacation, tried next day, got it
to run for a couple of days and it stayed on 74 deg like we set it at.
Tried starting again, but it stayed warm (over 82 deg) in the house.
Let it rest for a day or so again, and got cool air from it for a
little longer, BUT the area around the evap coil started leaking water
through the furncace and all over the basement floor. In addition,
the duct right above the air handler had condensation all over it.
Because I am in the process of finishing the basement, I wanted to get
water leakage problem fixed before I had carpet put in.
CBHvac
> you. You all are like big brothers watching out for me. I appreciate
> it!
>
> What's "OP" mean? It's obvious it's referring to me, but I couldn't
> figure it out.
>
Original Poster.
> Paul, I checked out your web site too. I was surprised to see you are
> in CA not N. or S. Carolina! Originally from there? My folks retired
> to Murrells Inlet, SC (next to Myrtle Beach). People are reeeaalll
> nice down there.
>
Paul IS in NC...
> Myself, I am from the Philly area (grew up in Philly). Now my wife,
> dog and 2 young boys live in NW outskirts of Philly. If any of you
> know any installers that you would please e-mail some info or even
> post it here.
Ah..the only town where you take your steering wheel so your car MIGHT be
there when you get back..
>
>
> Alright, I realized I was in the process of being screwed. Thanks to
> all of you I am a little wiser. That's why us homeowners come here.
> We never get sugarcoated advice here, just the cold plain facts!
>
Wish everyone understood that.
> During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
> Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
> ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
> worked at all. What would that combination cause?
A mess..
>
> I talked to my wife this morning about the advice I gotten so far and
> she said that she doesn't want to bother trying to have the unit fixed
> (cha-ching for the installers), but now I am very tempted to bring a
> second tech, from another company, & get it rediagnosed.
Good idea..
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>And Thank you very much too Paul (&KJ Pro)!!! Didn't mean to exclude
>you. You all are like big brothers watching out for me. I appreciate
>it!
>
>What's "OP" mean? It's obvious it's referring to me, but I couldn't
>figure it out.
Original Poster.
>Paul, I checked out your web site too. I was surprised to see you are
>in CA not N. or S. Carolina!
Ummm.... so am I ! When did I move to CA ? And how do I get
out ?
>Originally from there? My folks retired
>to Murrells Inlet, SC (next to Myrtle Beach). People are reeeaalll
>nice down there.
They brought me in to balance things out a bit :-)
>During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
>Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
>ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
>worked at all. What would that combination cause?
Slightly higher SEER ( as they rate it ). Less moisture
removal. Anyone who 'leaves shaking his head' over this combination
needs to not be invited back. The same capacity combo is often sold
and installed today as per manufacturers spec, and works fine. In and
of itself, all other factors aside, this combination makes duct
sweating *less* likely, not *more*.
>I talked to my wife this morning about the advice I gotten so far and
>she said that she doesn't want to bother trying to have the unit fixed
>(cha-ching for the installers), but now I am very tempted to bring a
>second tech, from another company, & get it rediagnosed.
"Honey ? Remember that vacation you thought we were going on
? Well, I spent it on a new AC system we didnt'even need."
>From what I described in my first post, anyone have any ideas on what
>maybe wrong. Here's a mini summary of the problem to again...
Sadly, it sounds like you haven't had a *competent* tech yet.
Keep looking.
If one of the incompetent ones sells you a new system, and
puts it in just like the old one, and there is a design problem that
no one figured out in the first place, then the new one will do
exactly what the old one does. Tell the wife it's the equivalent of
returning a pair of shoes for a different color in the same size,
which sadly is too small for her big feet - it just ain't gonna help
matters ! :-)
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
<webm...@carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote:
>> Paul, I checked out your web site too. I was surprised to see you are
>> in CA not N. or S. Carolina! Originally from there? My folks retired
>> to Murrells Inlet, SC (next to Myrtle Beach). People are reeeaalll
>> nice down there.
>>
>
>Paul IS in NC...
Damn, that's a relief ! For a minute there I thought I was
gonna have to turn in my guns and order one of those vegetable
pizzas !
>> Myself, I am from the Philly area (grew up in Philly). Now my wife,
>> dog and 2 young boys live in NW outskirts of Philly. If any of you
>> know any installers that you would please e-mail some info or even
>> post it here.
>
>Ah..the only town where you take your steering wheel so your car MIGHT be
>there when you get back..
No, more like 'so you have something to remember it by' :-)
>> During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
>> Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
>> ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
>> worked at all. What would that combination cause?
>
>A mess..
Shit, I misread it - ignore my previous comment on it, I was
commenting based on ' air handler is 3 & 1/2, condensor is 3', the
exact opposite of what you said.. My bad. But still, it should be
workable.
Mark
Makes sense, thanks.
>
> >Paul, I checked out your web site too. I was surprised to see you are
> >in CA not N. or S. Carolina!
>
> Ummm.... so am I ! When did I move to CA ? And how do I get
> out ?
Stupid me - read CA, not NC - what do you expect i'm a homeowner and
blonde (usually only effecs the ladies, but not with me I guess) to
boot!
>
> >During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
> >Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
> >ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
> >worked at all. What would that combination cause?
>
> Slightly higher SEER ( as they rate it ). Less moisture
> removal. Anyone who 'leaves shaking his head' over this combination
> needs to not be invited back. The same capacity combo is often sold
> and installed today as per manufacturers spec, and works fine. In and
> of itself, all other factors aside, this combination makes duct
> sweating *less* likely, not *more*.
This guy was recommended by a very close family friend and WILL NOT be
invited back to check out the old system or install our new one. BTW,
the guy made an appt with us for 5 and showed at 7:10! I understand
he could have gotten tied up at a job, but a phone call saying let's
reschedule or I am running really late would have been considerate.
(sorry just venting).
>
> >I talked to my wife this morning about the advice I gotten so far and
> >she said that she doesn't want to bother trying to have the unit fixed
> >(cha-ching for the installers), but now I am very tempted to bring a
> >second tech, from another company, & get it rediagnosed.
>
> "Honey ? Remember that vacation you thought we were going on
> ? Well, I spent it on a new AC system we didnt'even need."
With 2 young kids, one income and a money sucking house, we never took
any meaningful vacations anyway. The New Jersey shore is about it for
us (and when we go there there is usually a bacteria scare from the
ocean anyway)! If you don't think we need the system - please tell me
why and your opinion on what to look for in a compentent tech. Head
pressure didn't mean crap to me a week ago.
>
> >From what I described in my first post, anyone have any ideas on what
> >maybe wrong. Here's a mini summary of the problem to again...
>
> Sadly, it sounds like you haven't had a *competent* tech yet.
> Keep looking.
>
One more try to have someone fix it. I really don't want to shell out
somewhere around 10k if I don't have to.
> If one of the incompetent ones sells you a new system, and
> puts it in just like the old one, and there is a design problem that
> no one figured out in the first place, then the new one will do
> exactly what the old one does. Tell the wife it's the equivalent of
> returning a pair of shoes for a different color in the same size,
> which sadly is too small for her big feet - it just ain't gonna help
> matters ! :-)
I will do my best to weed them out. My wife told me there is bid
waiting for us at home. I'll let you all know what the
recommendations are tomorrow.
kjpro
> > Alright, I realized I was in the process of being screwed. Thanks to
> > all of you I am a little wiser. That's why us homeowners come here.
> > We never get sugarcoated advice here, just the cold plain facts!
> Wish everyone understood that.
Anit that the truth! :-)
> > During my bid process, I did find out something very interesting.
> > Turns out that air handler is a 3 ton unit and the condenser is 3 1/2
> > ton unit. The guy last night left shaking his head that it even
> > worked at all. What would that combination cause?
> A mess..
But, wait a minute...............we have a company that does this!!
Coarse, he can't figure out a normal system either..........so why should he
do this one right!!
> > I talked to my wife this morning about the advice I gotten so far and
> > she said that she doesn't want to bother trying to have the unit fixed
> > (cha-ching for the installers), but now I am very tempted to bring a
> > second tech, from another company, & get it rediagnosed.
> Good idea..
I just can't believe how bad it is to get a real tech!!
I always thought it was just our area.
> > From what I described in my first post, anyone have any ideas on what
> > maybe wrong. Here's a mini summary of the problem to again...
> >
> > Summary - a/c wouldn'd kick on after vacation, tried next day, got it
> > to run for a couple of days and it stayed on 74 deg like we set it at.
> > Tried starting again, but it stayed warm (over 82 deg) in the house.
> > Let it rest for a day or so again, and got cool air from it for a
> > little longer, BUT the area around the evap coil started leaking water
> > through the furncace and all over the basement floor. In addition,
> > the duct right above the air handler had condensation all over it.
> > Because I am in the process of finishing the basement, I wanted to get
> > water leakage problem fixed before I had carpet put in.
Well, with limited info...........here's a guess,
I'd say freezing coil?
Causes:
1.) Low Air-Flow
a.) filter dirty
b.) coil dirty
c.) duct work not sized properly
d.) fan dirty
e.) motor not running at correct speed
f.) bad motor, not running at right rpm
2.) low on refrigerate
a.) has to have a leak in the system, for refrigerate to escape
b.) or a tech that took it out
3.) mis-matched components
(which you say you have)
4.) dumb-ass installer
5.) dumb-ass tech
Now if you're saying the unit won't run at all at times, then there are
different things it can be.
If you would like a better guess, we need more info..........& be very
specific.
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>With 2 young kids, one income and a money sucking house, we never took
>any meaningful vacations anyway. The New Jersey shore is about it for
>us (and when we go there there is usually a bacteria scare from the
>ocean anyway)!
Looking at the correlation there - has it occured to you that
you and your kids are actually the bacteria scare ? :-)
> If you don't think we need the system - please tell me
>why and your opinion on what to look for in a compentent tech. Head
>pressure didn't mean crap to me a week ago.
I couldn't possibly hold an opinion on your system, I've never
seen it and I don't have reliable information about it ( as in 'from a
competent tech who laid hands on it' ). I can say with confidence
that the things you have quoted here tell me that the people who *did*
look at it don't know anything more about it that I do ( here at my
desk in NC ).
Gary R. Lloyd
An undersized coil reduces the heat load on the coil, dropping its
temperature, making it more prone to freezing. This can be compensated
for by increasing the airflow. Obviously then, anything which
decreases the airflow (dirty filter, blower wheel, or coil, or
undersized ducts, returns blocked, supply vents closed, etc.) will
only add to the problem. Your system may have other problems, also. We
can't see it from here, and this isn't enough information to do more
than take a wild guess.
Gary
HVACR Trouble Shooting Books/Software
http://www.techmethod.com
Mark
better because I don't have the proper tools nor knowledge to evaluate
my system. It makes it harder too since a good tech is hard to get
here. I read something about a "NATE" certification for techs. Its
that a good indicator of competence?
I also realize that I am at a decision point here. Do I continue
searching for a good tech that can accurately diagnose and possibly
fix my problem or bite the bullet on a new system. I am now leaning
towards the new system.
I received my first quote the other day on a new system. I am leaving
the numbers out just posting the recommendations.
Because, my upstairs always seemed to have about a 5 degree+ variance
from downstairs, the company made these recommendations. I am
primarily concerned about keeping heat throughout the house. Home is
1425 sq' upstairs. 1425 sq' downstairs, 1000 sq' basement. Load calc
came in at 4 tons.
1. Two - 14 seer Trane XLI systems (one 2 ton for upstairs and and one
for lower level and basement. Ductwork snaking through attic for
upstairs unit, air handler possibly in closet. One XV90 furnace in
basement 100k btu. They are planning duct work mods to make the
system more efficient - Thoughts??? Should we also add a much cheaper
heater for upstairs as well. Opinions on r410 & r22?
2. 19 seer XLi Trane & XV90.
3. 14 seer XLi Trane & XV90.
Thanks - Mark
Gary R. Lloyd
As I see it, you are faced with two choices:
1. Repairing your current system to an acceptable level of
performance.
2. Replacing the system.
If replacing the system would pay you back in terms of life
expectancy, energy savings, reduction of future service costs, and/or
increased comfort, regardless of the costs of repairing the present
system, then its a no-brainer. Replace it.
If the cost of repairing the system, factored in with the above, tips
the scales, then replace it.
If you can't find anyone smart enough (or honest enough) to tell you
what is wrong with the system and give you a realistic estimate of
repair costs, then you have little choice in the matter. You are at
their mercy.