Thanks
E
I think you are about to make a clusterfuck into a bigger one.
1500 sq/ft means absolutely NOTHING.
WHY not do a load calculation and install a PROPERLY sized unit???
Tight budget and I don't want to replace the air handler if I don't
have to. I have A/C resources but am not a contractor. Are you
telling me the system is already screwed?? What is the PROPER unit
size? 1 ton = 500sq/ft?? Am I wrong? I know there are other factors
that can effect that calc but saying there are no other factors what
do ya think?
YEP
> What is the PROPER unit
> size?
DON'T KNOW, I HAVEN'T DONE A LOAD CALCULATION ON YOUR HOME.
> 1 ton = 500sq/ft??
DEPENDS, DO YOU WANT IT DONE PROPERLY?
> Am I wrong?
YES
> I know there are other factors
> that can effect that calc but saying there are no other factors what
> do ya think?
My thinking HAS NOT changed any...
Do a "load calculation", or settle for the quality that you pay for.
Low cost will equal a screwed up system. One that will not only affect your
comfort, but will cost you more in operational cost. You'll NEVER be happy
with it's performance, as you will be having it serviced constantly.
You have a choice, do it *right* now or do it twice. Doing it properly the
first time is a WHOLE lot cheaper.
As far as 1 ton per 500 sq/ft... do you think someone in NY, SD, or CANADA
will need as much cooling as someone in FL, TX or AR?
What if one has 2 x 4 construction vers 2 x 6?
What if one has R13 walls & R19 ceiling insulation vers R19 walls & R30
Ceiling?
What if one has a basement and the other is on a concrete slab?
What if one has twice as many windows?
What if one has sky lights?
What if one has an attached garage?
What if one has a lot of shade?
What if one likes it 68 and the other likes it 78?
The list just keeps going...
First step,
GET A LOAD CALCULATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<kjpro @ usenet.com> wrote in message
news:a9bae$4608a428$943f6c44$78...@STARBAND.NET...
I think that you need to trash the 35+ year old Rheem condenser *AND* that
POS Goodman air handler you got now, call a *competent*, licensed, insured,
professionally trained, HVAC techinician do do a complete room-by-room
Manual J heat load/loss calculation, along with a Manual D duct calculation
to correctly size, design, and install your new comfort system.
This is a long term investment that when done correctly, will give you many
years of energy efficient, trouble free operation. OTOH, you can get the
cheapest POS, installed by some stupid fuck that doesn't have a clue, have
your warranty voided from the start, have higher utility bills that what you
have now, have lots of very high repair bills, etc.
Its your money...you can do what you want.
You do not want to oversize your ac. If you do it will run for shorter
periods and will not remove enough humidity. The result is cold damp air.
Keep that in mind as your consider upping by a 1/2 ton.
<epie...@woodmarkre.com> wrote in message
news:1174966639....@d57g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Guess again..... its got a 10 SEER coil, and all you can get now are 13+SEER
condensing units. Yes it will work, but then so will putting a 426 HEMI in a
Pinto.... the question is....How long will it last before it craps out. You
might also want to check the most recent warranty disclaimers on whatever
brand of condenser you decide to hack in. Rheem for one has just come out
with a new equipment mismatch warranty change......With mismatched(size,
brand, etc) equipment, the condenser/heat pump warranty is reduced to 1 yr
on the compressor and 2 years on the rest of the parts.
><epie...@woodmarkre.com> wrote in message
>news:1174966639....@d57g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>>I am interested in replacing my Rheem Condensing unit model #CFF-0250-
>>RFVC. I have a Goodman A30-10 air handler. Does anyone know what
>>condensing units would be compatible with my Goodman air handler. I
>>was thinking that the outside unit is a 2.5 ton unit and my house is
>>1,500 sq/ft. I would like to jump up at least 1/2 a ton if at all
>>possible on the condensing unit. What do ya'll think? Thanks E
>>
>>
>I think you are about to make a cluster-fk into a bigger one.
>
>1500 sq/ft means absolutely NOTHING. WHY not do a load calculation and install a PROPERLY sized unit?
>
>
I read the posts all the way down to gofish & must say there is a lot of
detrimental advice in some of the posts.
The first thing to do is everything you can to reduce the heat-gain
heat-loss of your home.
Then have a manual J calc done to determine the load or sizing the new
equipment.
Forget the 500-sq/ft per ton nonsense! I cool over 900-sq/ft first floor
with a half-ton 6,000-btu/hr in a 1930's home with leaky windows.
This is in SW WI with up to 104 Heat Indexes.
It does a perfect job with no cooling upstairs; the moment you go up the
stairs ou enter the hot air.
When I turn the other small room a/c on it cools th small bedroom,
hallway & bathroom. I use floor fans to circulate the air.
http://www.udarrell.com/airconditioner_current_temperature_btuh_charting.html
There is nothing wrong with Goodman equipment however I would go NO
higher than a 14-Seer unless you live in Florida or southern most Texas.
The 14-SEER has the Scroll compressor the standard 13-SEER does not, I
would not buy a condenser that did not have a scroll compressor.
Have every aspect of the entire ductwork system thoroughly checked.
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
- udarrell Darrell
--
WISDOM PRINCIPLED EMPOWERMENT COMMUNICATIONS -
THE REAL POLITICAL ISSUES and WISDOM BASED PEOPLE EMPOWERMENT
http://www.udarrell.com/
http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm
Thanks for your post and for acknowleding that I'm not a complete
idiot. I never stated I was an expert or know it all, that is why I
am here asking these questions. With that being said let me clarify
my situation, I live in Houston, TX....I have a 1 floor house......I
have single pane windows.......my duct work seems fine (no damage nor
leaks),,,,the unit currently pushes out 60F on 80F days....my electric
bill has been 190 at the most durring the summer......I run my unit at
75 and that's good enough for us to sleep at nite..........yes it is
hot as hell down here........I'm not too concerned it the unit runs
and turns off too quick.....the unit I have now currently runs it's
ass off......especially on 95F days...literally runs and runs can't
keep up with the "air loss" in the home.....I have a "low pitch" roof
which heats up very quick....the attic acess door is above the return
air........and the thermostat is across from the return air
Thanks,
E
<snip>
> my situation, I live in Houston, TX....I have a 1 floor house......I
> have single pane windows.......my duct work seems fine (no damage nor
> leaks),,,,the unit currently pushes out 60F on 80F days....
<snip>
> the unit I have now currently runs it's
> ass off......especially on 95F days...literally runs and runs can't
> keep up with the "air loss" in the home.....
Suggest replace all those single pane windows before even considering making
any changes to your ac system.
No shit.
--
With the POS here (that's in the design stage), it's not going to matter
much. :-)
Ya well--does kinda sound like it's "designed" for max of 80 deg oa.....
Hmm...maybe should just add a few window units...
<G>
--
"Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9_ydnU_fz8qYv5Tb...@comcast.com...
Since he didn't respond to my prior post & doesn't listen to advice, I
figure he will end up screwing up big-time!
Houston,TX, huh. Summer Design is 95-Dry Bulb. 77-Wet Bulb or 18 degree
drop, around 44% Relative Humidity.
I thought there should be a higher humidity down there, - Stated ARI
Figures.
Go back & read the advice I gave you in my prior post, or throw you
money to the wind.
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems.html
- udarrell
You can count on this...
>
http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_systems
Yeah, Steve knows this as well.
But the fact is, he was telling you that not many 13+ SEER coils are going
to fit into his smaller AH.
Then he should say that.
I did, your just too ignorant to figure it out
He did (in different words) and if anyone in the trade couldn't get that,
they need to change professions!!!!
Bankrupt!!
>
>http://www.udarrell.com/proper_cfm_btuh_duct_sizing_air_conditioning_system
OK I guess I started a crap storm at this place.........Let me ask you
this if my air handler is ok for a 3 ton unit then what about my
inside coils???? I know all of you are going to say I need to chance
that as well soooo....how do I find out what the maximum or what the
compatibility is for the inside coil??? Basically how do I tell if it
will handle a 3 ton unit??
Thanks
E
I bow down to the A/C GODS!!!!
Condensor make Rheem
Compressor model # CFF1-0250-RFVC Serial # 8110853914
Evaporator coil.....I can not find the model nor the serial
#.....where should it be??
Air handler Goodman
Model # A30-10
Serial # 9709004677
Thanks,
E
So the air handler will handle a 3 ton but nothing.....and you're
saying that the condensor I cuttently have is a 2.5 ton......I'm gonna
go with a 3 ton and I've already installed a new T-stat but I have no
idea what a duct booster is gonna look it up.......thanks a bunch I'm
sure your customers are very pleased with you since you actually have
some personallity and don't talk like a freaking manual or robot.....
Much Appreciated
E
Stick a fork in him, Bubba, he's done :-)
Nice catch, don't forget to take a picture when you get back
to the dock :-)
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NO. It will handle 2-1/2 ton MAX.
> and you're
> saying that the condensor I cuttently have is a 2.5 ton......
NO. Its 2 tons, and if you upsize it to 2-1/2 then make sure the metering
device gets changed out to handle the additional refrigeranrt mass volume
> I'm gonna
> go with a 3 ton and I've already installed
NO. IF you do that, then its gonna trip out on high head and your seer is
gonna drop like a rock.
> a new T-stat but I have no
Which probly didnt hurt things any...
> idea what a duct booster is gonna look it up.......
He was just messin with you above on the duck booster
> thanks a bunch I'm
> sure your customers are very pleased with you since you actually have
> some personallity and don't talk like a freaking manual or robot.....
>
Umm...cat's done got my fucking tongue
> Much Appreciated
> E
>
--
OH..
Almost forgot :
FIRST, FIX THE FUCKING WINDOWS !!!!
--
Get lost Asshole, you're an idiot.
I tried to help (as others did too), but you're to stupid to comprehend the
information.
Air handler is 30,000 BTU which is 2.5 tons... NOT 3 like you stated above!
Condensor is 24,000 BTU which is 2 tons... NOT 2.5 like you stated above!
Now fuck off, as I'm done with your sorry ass. Some people just don't know
good advice when they read it.
BTW, I was right from the beginning... this is going to be a bigger
clusterfuck after you mess with it.
<epie...@woodmarkre.com> wrote in message
news:1175132673.7...@e65g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>30k is actually 2.5 ton and 24k is 2 ton. So your air handler fan will only
>accomidate up to 2.5 tons and your current coil is a 2 ton coil. 3 ton is
>likely to be oversized. You really need someone to do a load calculation to
>determine the right size. Oversizing results in damp cold air and that
>sucks comfort wise. If you really want to keep your current air handler you
>might have to remove the inside coil and replace it with a cased coil that
>goes with the new outside unit. That may or may not take some sheet metal
And it won't fucking work. Do you know what a 'CFM' is ?
--
Apparently you can't read.
Quack.
--
>
> > I'm gonna
> > go with a 3 ton and I've already installed
>
> NO. IF you do that, then its gonna trip out on high head and your seer is
> gonna drop like a rock.
>
Meant to say will freeze and low suction....was thinking heat pumps...
--
It's not like the OP would know any difference!! :-)