any ideas?
Lil Supco oil in the charge....run it a while...beat the hell out of the
slider...:)
Going back about 15-20yrs ago we used to blast em with 22 (hell I think it
was 20$ a 30 back then), freeze the crap out of the whole valve, then wrap
the body with a rag in the hotest water you can handle. Run the system as
soon as you put the rag on...obviously in the mode that causes the valve to
reverse from it's locked position. This worked about 60-70% of the time,
call back was practically nil when it did work, we of course still always
recomended that the valve be change as we couldn't garuantee that it would
work.
These days I would guess you could use CO2 for the freezing...
-Brian
Bobby
This is Turtle.
The problem usely is trash or oil in the reversing tubes and getting the tubes
blown out is the trick and shocking the system is the way to get it out. The
biggest sticker of these valves is sometimes trash but oil usely is the problem.
The old 2 ways of tring to break free a reversing valve [ get oil or trash out
of the the little bittey itty tubes is this thing is:
1) Get the heat mode to running and switch to cooling mode in one swift move.
Some systems start to raising hell but just put up with it. Do this 10 times in
heat mode and go to cooling and let it raise hell. Then start over. Then put it
in cooling mode and get it running good and switch to heat mode in one swift
move. Do this 10 times each and It should come loose by doing this.
2) Pump all the freon out in the evaperator coil and out of the condenser to
save it and then change the reversing valve.
ADD ON 3) Let me take my professional hat off and put my Hacker of the month
cap on. Get the unit to running in the heat mode so it will shift if it comes
loose and take your torch and start heating the small cap tubes mostly and a
little on the main body of the reversing valve. i have done this before to break
one loose but just don't get the tubes too hot to make them bust. Use your
B-tank torch and not the oxygen Act. rig to do this with. Have it wanting to
shift so when it shifts you will hear it. Now i'm putting my professional hat
back on.
TURTLE
Make sure the hammer is a softer metal, or better yet, those rubber hammers
with pellets in them. When starting out in the trade I used a ball hammer
and dented the darn thing, once this happens it will never slide,
also, I'm sure you know that its a temporary fix, no matter what you do,
hitting it or oil additives.
I've made my mind up that in the 21st century, if I find a reversing valve
bad I will not change it out for a 3 ton or less unit, either they get a new
unit or get someone else, The residential systems are not friendly to change
out, even the Trane/ American Standard units. I will however remove one of
them and take it back to the shop to repair, but I will NOT repair them in
the field ever again due to weather, lost tools, poor working conditions etc
etc. I can go fishing and enjoy myself instead of getting all ticked off on
how stupid our industry is when it comes to designs.
Rich
"go fish" <iove...@aol.comp.mil> wrote in message
news:20041201195925...@mb-m01.aol.com...
But....everyone in here has a brass hammer on the van....right????
>
> also, I'm sure you know that its a temporary fix, no matter what you do,
> hitting it or oil additives.
I dunno...that Supco shits not bad...if it works say...75% of the time...it
might be worth it to him.
There has been a lot said in the past about that stuff. My boss back in the
early 80's had it on the shelf but I personally have had no experience with
it. Maybe I should do a Goggle check on the stuff and re-read it.
I still wont change out a reversing valve out in the field ever again
though, Its so much easier putting it in the back of a pickup and taking it
to the shop where you have a proper environment to work on the thing and
away from the customer.
Rich
Tell em they need a new RTU
Problem solved
so now they get a proposal to r&r the reversing valve with no guarantee, or a
new unit at $100 over my cost. a grade school for a local church. whats a guy
to do?
thanks again for all the great suggestions.
GF
I have nothing to say but 4 letter words for those design engineers.
--
Zyp
"geoman" <yaw...@dres.com> wrote in message
news:JsOdnaJJtrb...@adelphia.com...
Go with the new unit,..at least that is what I would do..since its a
church...
Trane and American Standard had a major amounts of problems about 10 years
ago. I think they were Robershaws. There was a certain series number on the
valve and if you got one they gave you a new one and allowance to change it
out. Well, I got a brand new heat pump and found that valve in it. They
TRIED to get me to change it out, I told them I'm NOT paying a penny for the
unit until the whole thing is exchanged. Let the wholesaler change it out,
not me!
Rich
Print these posts out and show them that the whole world of HVAC says to
CHANGE OUT THE UNIT !!!
Best to you Fish
Rich
>
Jabs
"go fish" <iove...@aol.comp.mil> wrote in message
news:20041202232315...@mb-m18.aol.com...