>I am having some major problems with my heat pump. Long story short
>we had oil wanted gas, wasn't available on our side of the street, we
>had no heat due to broken oil furnace, the dealer told me about a heat
>pump, but never explained to me what it was.. and being an idiot, I
>didn't ask the right questions... I had no idea this would iclude a
>huge piece of machinery outside.
Did you not have central air before ? It's the same thing.
> The installed it right under our
>bedroom window, and about 7 feet away from neighbor's bedroom window.
Then he's an asshole. When mine was installed, the idjit
wanted to put it ~ 7 feet to one side of a certain door, which would
have been directly outside my bedroom wall. I jumped his shit and
told him 'no, put it on the OTHER side of the door ( TONS of open room
on both sides ) ' - outside a kitchen window.
Seeing as I rarely sleep in the kitchen, this was a reasonable
idea. Of course, installers don't give a shit, they don't have to
live where they work.
>Neighbor has MAJOR issues with this... we are trying to be a good
>neighbor without going into debt over it. We have a Trane XL15i,
>which is suppose to be pretty quiet, but we live in older homes so the
>sound is noticeable.... We just put up a fence to the cost of 750, and
>this has been no help to her!!!
>Any suggestions as to what our options are to reduce noise????
Move the unit. There is NOTHING you can do at 6' - 7 ' away
to make it acceptable outside a neighbor's bedroom window at 2 AM.
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
I appreciate your help!
On Jan 24, 9:17 am, .p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:
> On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:43:29 -0800 (PST), Abigail Baker
> Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
>No- we did not have central air.
>Do you have any idea what the cost of moving one of these things is?
Varies a lot. You need some estmates.
>Also, do you know since we have not de comissioned our oil tank yet,
>can the handler that works with the heat pump be hooked up with oil.
>so we could use oil for heat, and the heat pump just for air???
Depends on a lot of variables. Again, get some estimates.
Get some contractors out to look at it and answer questions.
Get it moved. Think about the best location for it. If your house is
on a crawl space or basement then moving it might be pretty simple.
Might be a little cheaper than the fence. The main cost is because
they have to evacuate the refrigerant and then relocate the copper
lines that connect it to the air handler to the new location. As
well as run the 240 power to the new location. Then reconnect and
recharge the system. So you ought to be able to get an idea about the
level of difficulty by considering wher those copper lines and the
power have to run now and where they will have to run to the location
you are considering. Most people have several reasonable spots for
the outside unit. The installers should have asked you more about the
location. If you went with the lowest bid then they probably put it
where they had the shortest and most direct run to the circuit
breakers and the air handler.
Reading the four other replies it seems the unit has to be moved.
Moving the unit once will cost less in the long run than an continuum
of experimental efforts each with only speculative effect. Not to
mention the costs associated with poor sleep and neighborly peace if
But what is it that is noisy? The compressor? The fan? The paneling?
First try work out precisely what causes the offensive noise?
Does the manufacturer expect less that dB(A) at 1m?
Thank you all so much for help.... is running the "emergency heat" at
night an option? That way the outside unit would not be running....
could this be done until we have the money to have it moved?
Does the manufacturer expect less that 50dB(A) at 1m? (my spell
checker wasn't set to ignore words with numbers and deleted tthe 50 in
my last post.)
The only problem you might encounter with running emergency heat only
or only supplementary heat is that you don't get enough heat.
But up to 50% of a system's capacity is often spent, wasted, on
heating air-leakage masses. Air leakage in excess of required
ventilation masses. Reduce the unwanted portion of the natural air
ingress for a while and run on emergency only and you might get by.
Build up some heat during the day by raising the heat pump stat
temporarily until it can be relocated or until you can eliminate the
noise emanating from the offensive component.
Yes. That means you'r eheating with electric strips only.
Kill neighbor. Problem solved.
"Abigail Baker" <kuhl...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
Escuss my ignorance but if you running all of heat from heater elements
why would you run comprresor? (Condenser.)
In the emergency mode the compressor is not running. What we're
suggesting is that she heat the house up a bit higher than normal
during the day with the hp while the neighbor is not in their
bedroom. Then switch to emergency heat and lower the thermostat some
at night. That will lower the amount of time the expensive resistive
heat has to run.
Idiot you've been told many times in the past...laziness is no excuse for
> but if you running all of heat from heater elements
> why would you run comprresor? (Condenser.)
Suggest reading comprehension classes because the current discussion
concerns running the compressor during the day and then locking it out at
night, switching over to run heat strips only.
"PrecisioNmachinisT" <precision...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Okay since at least this time your expressing a desire to learn something
> Are there such devices built into system that
> home owner can simply switch from one to the other
Yes--it's called a heat pump thermostat...typical here is at a minimum you
will have connections for compressor (Y), reversing valve ( O or B ), fan
(G), and backup heat as call for oil or electric (W)--this in addition to
red and common ( if used ).
Typical thermostat mode settings will be auto changeover, cool only, heat
only, off, and emergency heat.
When the "emergency heat" mode is selected , compressor operation is locked
out causing unit to run backup heat mode only.
"Jeffrey Lebowski" <Nope@nono> wrote in message