Re: What Causes Compressor Leads to Burn Off of Terminals?
DIMwit
Stormy tried to fit it by being nice and offering poor help. you try to fit
in by being a prick and offering Bubba-ish help.
Bubba wins, but you are his protégé, I guess?
Bubba at least seems to know what he talks about. You are years away from
that. If you think his compressor is bad, why don't you mention that?
Dimwit (at least I admit it)
sprinkler system armed
"Al Moran" <a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9hurh2prh888toom5...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 23:33:44 -0500, Ken Hall
> <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>For the 12 years we've had this condenser unit the compressor leads
>>have burned off at the terminals once or twice a year. These events
>>burn the insulation off the wires back about 3 inches from the
>>connection, and seem to char the wire itself to the same point but it
>>may just be the burned insulation making it look like the wires were
>>burned.
>>
>>For the 10 years my unit was under warranty I simply called the people
>>who installed it, they'd come out, cut off the burned wire ends add
>>some inadequate crimped on connectors and it would work for 6-12 more
>>months. Now that the warranty has run out this has become my job.
>>This summer it's begun doing this more frequently and the events seem
>>to be getting closer and closer together. I'm pretty sure this even
>>happen upon startup because I've heard the breakers snap a couple of
>>times shortly after the indoor fan comes on, and when I go out and
>>look the leads are burned.
>>
>>Based on advice I got here I installed a set of Term-Loc leads about 6
>>weeks ago. A week ago these leads burned (just like the old ones).
>>The connectors stayed on but one lead burned completely off its
>>Term-Loc connector. The event melted/burned up the plastic terminal
>>separator that comes in the Term-Loc kit. I wasn't able to attach the
>>burned off lead to the Term-Loc connector again, so I went back to my
>>old method that used to last 6 months to a year. Night before last
>>the same lead burned off again.
>>
>>My question is, what causes compressor leads to burn off of terminals
>>repeatedly like this? Remember it has been happening fairly regularly
>>for 12 years so it isn't a condition caused by age.
>>
>>This unit has a black cylindrical thing connected to the run
>>capacitor. It has the name Supco Super-Boost. [See picture
>>http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8528/supcop7315937gi9.jpg] It has
>>words on it that sound like it's a compressor start booster.
>>Suggesting it gives the compressor a big current hit on startup to
>>kick the motor into motion. Could this be causing the wires to burn?
>>If so, why do I need it and can I remove it? If I can remove it, do
>>I just disconnect it from the start capacitor?
>>
>>-- Ken
>
>
> Your thermostat is causing "high voltage crossover" at the contactor
> where the two wires come into the condenser from the indoor circuit
> board. Replace the thermostat and all will be well. Such a simple fix,
> you must of had an idiot working on it.
udarrell
tight enough.
That causes resistance that generates a lot of heat that turns the
terminal on the compressor into resistive poor conductors therefore the
scenario keeps repeating.
They need to take some emery paper and tire to get down to a better
conduction surface.
Also, is the compressor running too hot?
If the compressor terminals appear to be too burnt & emery or filing
does not help along with special screw tight terminal clamps, then
eventually it will get to hot & blow a hole in the terminal plug,
resulting in the loss of all the refrigerant. - udarrell
--
Air Conditioning's Affordable Path to the "Human Comfort Zone Goal"
http://www.udarrell.com/airconditioning_eer_ratings_over_seer_ratings_central_systems.html
(Solving ESP)
http://www.udarrell.com/udarrell-air-conditioning.html
=================
Stormin Mormon
wonder if the gentleman with the unit would be kind enough to post
anohter pic, this one of the terminals.
That's something I'd not thought of, bad connection inside the
compressor. Of course, where the terminal block ataches to the
internal wiring may be high resistance.
And my favorite reccomendation -- clean the condensor.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"udarrell" <anon...@anonymous.com> wrote in message
news:_jtTg.3457$5i7....@newsreading01.news.tds.net...
Oscar_Lives
"Ken Hall" <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:bqsrh2thee7ghtiiu...@4ax.com...
Sounds like a bad or improper thermostat is being used. What make/model
thermostat do you have?
AKS
Udarrell have gave you good explanation I had
few of those myself but so far none repeated, these is what I do
when you replacing terminal (stay-cons) first make sure you wires
are rated for current require, crimping wire some time it is not enough
you may need to solder in and then make sure that terminal fits on tight
you can also squeeze in terminal part that goes on to log before it is
pushed on, after that is complete you can add small glob of silicon
compound on to each terminal preventing getting moisture on
and helping keep rust off.
Good luck from Dido
Power's Mechanical
Ken Hall wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 14:37:53 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nos...@nospam.net>
> wrote:
>
> >Sounds like a bad or improper thermostat is being used. What make/model
> >thermostat do you have?
>
> know all the thermostat does is supply 24v to energize the contactor
> when cooling is called for.
>
Dont mind Oscar. He's one of many HVAC groupies here that dont have
one thing to do with HVAC besides sit at the computer and post non stop
bullshit to a HVAC newsgroup.
Jabs
The answer to your problem at:
http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=REL20171&Category_Code=
Jabs
Noon-Air
"Jabs" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lKyTg.8479$%i.7...@tornado.socal.rr.com...
Damn... how can they sell them so cheap? LOL
Bubba
wrote:
>I see a pattern here: you are the anti-stormy.
>
>Stormy tried to fit it by being nice and offering poor help. you try to fit
>in by being a prick and offering Bubba-ish help.
>
>Bubba wins, but you are his protégé, I guess?
So you mean I won a prize?
Just forward the money to my PayPal acct.
Bubba
Bubba
<kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 14:37:53 GMT, "Oscar_Lives" <nos...@nospam.net>
>wrote:
>
>>Sounds like a bad or improper thermostat is being used. What make/model
>>thermostat do you have?
>
>That's baffling to me. How can a thermostat cause this? As far as I
>know all the thermostat does is supply 24v to energize the contactor
>when cooling is called for.
We know its baffling to you. That's why you're here. Trust us. We know
what we are talking about. Now go get a new thermostat. You might want
to also install one of those new ReverseFlow@ductboosters while you're
at it.
>My thermostat is a Honeywell Chronotherm III.
>
>Incidentally if you're thinking the contactor is chattering when
>energized, it's not. There's just one solid clack.
>
>-- Ken
Clack? Oh shit! Never mind. You need to replace your system
immediately.
Bubba
Mo Hoaner
>>thermostat do you have?
>
> know all the thermostat does is supply 24v to energize the contactor
> when cooling is called for.
>
>
> Incidentally if you're thinking the contactor is chattering when
> energized, it's not. There's just one solid clack.
>
> -- Ken
He was actually giving away a possible cause of the problem. What sometimes
happens is that the stat starts the compressor - that's the "one solid
clack" you hear. Now, the system comes up to normal operating pressure. The
thermostat might have a problem (it might not even be the stat's fault -
think door slamming near a mercury stat) where it momentarily allows the
contactor for the compressor to open. Now it closes the contactor again.
We've got head pressure, so you wind up with a locked rotor condition. If
the compressor is running, it draws - oh... something less than the rating
of the breaker feeding it. During a start, and while you are in a locked
rotor condition, it sits there drawing whatever it feels like - some large
multiple of the recommended breaker rating until something gives. That would
be one of the thermals, the breaker feeding it, or the wiring to it, or the
windings. Something is wrong with this picture. It could very well be the
thermostat. The real expensive, good ones are recommended for a good
reason - they generally have a parameter that allows the knowledgable
installer to control the minimum cycle time.
From what you've said, it's been happening every six months for the past 12
years. That means - to me, anyway - that six months after you had this unit
installed, it burned it's first set of leads off. After the second time it
happened - and certainly during the 7th, 8th, or 9th year it happened - you
should have been asking a few questions about why it keeps happening, and
what they plan on doing when the manufacturer's / installer's warranty is
over. The wire to that you are trying so hard to re-attach is so badly
corroded, and contaminated with Hydrochloric acid from the burned PVC that
there is no hope of a permanent repair with the present wire. You need to
find someone who knows what they are doing to look at the unit, and assess
whether the terminals are too far gone, whether there's an issue with the
control system, and whether it's just time to say goodbye to it. That would
likely be someone other than who's been out there between 12 and 24 times
for the "same" problem.
Somewhere along the line, did they at least suggest replacing the
compressor, and you didn't want to pay the labor? When you are messing with
those terminals, are you using correct PPE? Remember that there's 50-100
PSI - when it has been off for a while - behind those innocent looking
little studs. The glass seals have likely been stressed by the heat, and a
nice R-22 / oil injection into your hand might be the most minor thing that
could happen. BTW, you could lose fingers / hand later due to gangrene if it
lets go, and the conditions are right.
Noon-Air
IF the super boost was correctly installed, it *might* help, so would
correctly wiring that replacement run capacitor(it *IS* the correct value,
isn't it?)...however, the contactor looks like it has been arced across and
it should probably be replaced and the original problem corrected. Unless I
miss my guess, its a Goodman unit that has been repeatedly hacked over by
the lowest bidder and then screwed with by the owner.
Its pointless to ask what kind of metering device does the system have??
When the compressor *IS* running, what is the SST and superheat?? What is
the LLP and subcooling?? What is the amp draw on the compressor??
Best you can hope for is to call a *competent*(not cheapest), licensed,
insured, professionally trained, HVAC technician to come straighten out your
mess.
DIMwit
slightly used 5 cent cigar that was used by some porno queen showing off one
of her many talents.
Just saved up enough bottles and cans to get enough cash to fine dine at
Burger King.
I love this group. ( hey!, but only in a plutonic way).
"Bubba" <LiKeAlA...@iname.com> wrote in message
news:vjhth2hoh1mv39vrc...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 07:33:19 -0400, "DIMwit" <ig...@ignacious.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I see a pattern here: you are the anti-stormy.
>>
>>Stormy tried to fit it by being nice and offering poor help. you try to
>>fit
>>in by being a prick and offering Bubba-ish help.
>>
>>Bubba wins, but you are his protégé, I guess?
>
> So you mean I won a prize?
> Just forward the money to my PayPal acct.
> Bubba
>
>>Bubba at least seems to know what he talks about. You are years away from
>>that. If you think his compressor is bad, why don't you mention that?
>>
>>Dimwit (at least I admit it)
>>sprinkler system armed
>>
>>
>>"Al Moran" <a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:9hurh2prh888toom5...@4ax.com...
snipped for; cause I want to
DIMwit
"Al Moran" <a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ahpsh2ldqs97hfqs2...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 07:33:19 -0400, "DIMwit" <ig...@ignacious.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I see a pattern here: you are the anti-stormy.
>>
>>Stormy tried to fit it by being nice and offering poor help. you try to
>>fit
>>in by being a prick and offering Bubba-ish help.
>>
>>Bubba wins, but you are his protégé, I guess?
>>Bubba at least seems to know what he talks about. You are years away from
>>that. If you think his compressor is bad, why don't you mention that?
>>
>>Dimwit (at least I admit it)
>>sprinkler system armed
> Yawn.
Noon-Air
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 15:17:40 -0500, "Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>>Unless I miss my guess, its a Goodman unit that has been
>>repeatedly hacked over by the lowest bidder and then screwed
>>with by the owner.
>
>
> The "hacking" I've done is:
> changed the contactor once
> installing inadequate connectors (same as the original installer used)
> when they burned off
> shortly thereafter installing the Term-Loc wires -- at your suggestion
> if I recall correctly
> installing the inadequate connectors twice more in the last couple of
> weeks after the Term-Loc wire burned off.
>
> The last two events prompting me to post this question.
>
>>When the compressor *IS* running, what is the SST and superheat??
>
> these were the conditions and results:
>
> indoor temp 74
> outdoor temp 95
>
> low side
> pressure 67
> saturation temp 38
> suction line temp 45
> superheat 7
> superheat should be 7 per manufacture's pamphlet
Subcooling *maybe* with a TXV but not superheat.
>>What is the amp draw on the compressor??
>
> 18 amps -- about right for the conditions per manufacturer's pamphlet
Part of your problem is that the system is overcharged and the compressor is
sweating and most probably causing the terminals to be wet all the time
causing high resistance connections.
With a 67 PSI SP, I would look for an SST of approximately 58 degrees with a
fixed oriface(piston) metering device. Recover the refrigerant overcharge,
and try again.
udarrell
>On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 19:39:53 -0500, "Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>
>
>>> superheat 7
>>> superheat should be 7 per manufacture's pamphlet
>>>
>>>
>>Subcooling *maybe* with a TXV but not superheat.
>>
>>
>
>You're wrong. I have the pamphlet that came with the unit in front of
>me. -- Ken
>
>
Noonair made some good observations, do not flat out tell him he is
wrong! If the compressor is sweating too much it can create problems
with the terminals.
Superheat does not mean anything if the airflow is too low or there is
an insufficient heatload going through the evaporator coil.
It could be overcharged, -read the linked page!
http://www.udarrell.com/airconditioning-excessive-airflow.html
I have not read all the posts so don't have enough info to make any
meaningful assessments! - udarrell
Mo Hoaner
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 15:17:40 -0500, "Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>>repeatedly hacked over by the lowest bidder and then screwed
>>with by the owner.
>
>
> The "hacking" I've done is:
> changed the contactor once
> installing inadequate connectors (same as the original installer used)
> when they burned off
> shortly thereafter installing the Term-Loc wires -- at your suggestion
> if I recall correctly
> installing the inadequate connectors twice more in the last couple of
> weeks after the Term-Loc wire burned off.
>
keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want. Also,
what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
terminal another piece of your handiwork?
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Ken Hall" <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:gprsh21fqd1kvf841...@4ax.com...
>Also, is the compressor running too hot?
I don't know how to judge too hot. I can put my hand on it be I can't
leave it there.
Jake
> I should have added, you're right that the suction line sweats all the
> way to the compressor. I've attributed that to the fact that it's
> Houston and Houston has high humidity.
>
> -- Ken
Ken,
I've read all this back and forth and can't really answer your
question... except to give you another avenue to look at...
I'm an electrician and NOT a HVAC guy, so take it for what it's worth.
What you describe are classic symptoms of a low voltage condition on
startup.
Look at the side of your condensing unit and see what the required
current is.... and then compare it to the wire size you have going out
there.
Check all of the connections from the breaker, to the disco, to the
unit. Clean and re-tighten all of them (with the breaker off, of
course). Open/close the disconnect.. and while open inspect the thing.
Does your home have a adequate (in these days meaning at least 200 amp)
service?
Did the contractor make the aluminum/copper wire transitions correctly
(if applicable)?
Starting current is one heck of a lot than what it takes to run the
thing... and I'd surmise that's where the problem is... a low voltage
condition on start due to bad feed capacity or poor connections somewhere.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Jake
Noon-Air
>>> outdoor temp 95
>>>
>>> low side
>>> pressure 67
>>> saturation temp 38
>>> suction line temp 45
>>> superheat 7
>>> superheat should be 7 per manufacture's pamphlet
>>
>>Subcooling *maybe* with a TXV but not superheat.
>
>
> http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/3365/superheatua7.gif
What kind of metering device do you have??
What is your LLP and LLT??
Noon-Air
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:34:13 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>
>>If you didn't do the hacking, who mangled the cap mount, and what exactly
>>keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want.
>>Also,
>>what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
>>you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
>>you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
>>scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
>>flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
>>terminal another piece of your handiwork?
>
> of those things.
>
> I don't see anything that looks like burns on the capacitor.
Leave it the way it is and you will...the flashover burns are all over the
contactor.
Unless I am gone totally blind, on the capacitor, you have the red wire
going to the common terminal, as well as *BOTH* hard start wires, and the
compressor wire to the *FAN* terminal.
DUHHHHH Gee, I wonder why its not working.
Call somebody that knows what their doing, before you end up as a Darwin
Award nominee..... on second thought........
Mo Hoaner
"Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:vKydnXxzHJPVVILY...@comcast.com...
You've not blind - I thought that too, but I enlarged, and looked really
closely at the pic, and you can see the right spade on the left terminal has
nothing on it. The 14 or so guage red wire is on the left spade of the
center terminal, one of the wires from the HS is on the right spade of the
center terminal, the other is on the left spade of the right terminal, and
the white comp wire is on right spade of the right terminal. As to what this
cap really is, who knows. The marking near the left terminal looks to be H
R2, and the marking near the right terminal can't be made out, but does
kinda look like FAN. Just think... the hard start is doing all the work ; ).
Anyway, look at the right terminal at about the 1 o'clock position, and you
can see what appears to be the remnants of a flashover, all the way up to
the crimp on the can (BTW: I didn't say burn). He's got major nicks on the
insulation of several of the wires that we can see, and the ring terminal on
the red wire for the comp on the left side of the contactor looks like it's
been hot as well. For a good laugh, look closely at the strand or so of wire
going in to the spade terminal on the L2 terminal on the hot side of the
contactor. (just above the chunk of missing insulation on the black wire).
Come on Ken, tell us the truth.... this picture is of something that you
found out for the garbage someplace.
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:
>
>"Ken Hall" <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:5dfuh2d3m9tev58lt...@4ax.com...
>> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:34:13 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>>
>>>If you didn't do the hacking, who mangled the cap mount, and what exactly
>>>keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want.
>>>Also,
>>>what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
>>>you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
>>>you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
>>>scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
>>>flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
>>>terminal another piece of your handiwork?
>>
>> The people who installed and maintained the unit for 10 years did all
>> of those things.
>>
>> I don't see anything that looks like burns on the capacitor.
Does anyone else notice the color of the copper on the red
power lead right at the crimp-on ? Dark charcoal gray ? And how nice
and crispy and cracked the red insulation looks ? Gee, I bet that
wire's REAL good ..... not.
>
>Leave it the way it is and you will...the flashover burns are all over the
>contactor.
>
>Unless I am gone totally blind, on the capacitor, you have the red wire
>going to the common terminal, as well as *BOTH* hard start wires, and the
>compressor wire to the *FAN* terminal.
>DUHHHHH Gee, I wonder why its not working.
>
>Call somebody that knows what their doing, before you end up as a Darwin
>Award nominee..... on second thought........
>
>
--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
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'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
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-zero
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:56:19 -0500, "Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>>What kind of metering device do you have??
>>What is your LLP and LLT??
>
Superheat is not a fixed number in a cap tube system. (FWIW, maybe you
would be better off not telling those who ARE trying to help you, that
they're wrong when you yourself are still not sure what is what.)
The wiring looks awful.
Ken, there is a metal plate tack welded onto the compressor that has
numbers stamped into it. If you would post all the info on that tag. As a
WAG, this may be a butchered unit from the start and not have the proper
start/run components.
-zero
AKS
on my earlier post I thought that we were talking
the terminal on compressor it self, but after looking
at picture whatever maybe worth to you, you have
one of two problems, one is and most likely low voltage supply
or line voltage drop or both, two possible bad cap resulting
compressor shutting down on overload and then trying to start
up again "word is short cycling" this would also caused for
kick start to burn up, and replace that bad wire put spade terminal
and solder it in for good connection.
Good luck from Dido
"Ken Hall" <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:5dfuh2d3m9tev58lt...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:34:13 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>
>>If you didn't do the hacking, who mangled the cap mount, and what exactly
>>keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want.
>>Also,
>>what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
>>you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
>>you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
>>scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
>>flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
>>terminal another piece of your handiwork?
>
> The people who installed and maintained the unit for 10 years did all
> of those things.
>
> I don't see anything that looks like burns on the capacitor.
>
> -- Ken
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>Ken
>on my earlier post I thought that we were talking
>the terminal on compressor it self, but after looking
>at picture whatever maybe worth to you, you have
>one of two problems, one is and most likely low voltage supply
> or line voltage drop or both, two possible bad cap resulting
>compressor shutting down on overload and then trying to start
>up again "word is short cycling" this would also caused for
>kick start to burn up, and replace that bad wire put spade terminal
>and solder it in for good connection.
>Good luck from Dido
You asshole.
What about the smoked contactor ?
What about the toasted red main power lead to the compressor ?
God, I don't believe what a fucking idiot you are.
>
>
>"Ken Hall" <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:5dfuh2d3m9tev58lt...@4ax.com...
>> On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:34:13 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>>
>>>If you didn't do the hacking, who mangled the cap mount, and what exactly
>>>keeps the cap and hard start pack from going exactly where they want.
>>>Also,
>>>what's the evaporated metal on the right hand side of the hard start? Did
>>>you or someone else replace the condenser fan motor at some point, or did
>>>you replace the start cap with a dual cap because that's all you could
>>>scrounge? While we're looking at the cap.... is that the remnants of a
>>>flashover on the right hand terminal? And, is the red wire on the center
>>>terminal another piece of your handiwork?
>>
>> The people who installed and maintained the unit for 10 years did all
>> of those things.
>>
>> I don't see anything that looks like burns on the capacitor.
>>
>> -- Ken
>
--
Noon-Air
> On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 11:18:48 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>
>>The marking near the left terminal looks to be H
>>R2, and the marking near the right terminal can't be made out, but does
>>kinda look like FAN. Just think... the hard start is doing all the work
>>; ).
>
<sigh> Its a combination of things.... the biggest problem is the ignorance
of the owner.
What works on paper doesn't necessarely work in real life.
You are only giving us half of the story......... Call a local *PRO* not the
lowest bidder. We have already seen *your* work.
Mo Hoaner
> On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 11:18:48 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>
>>The marking near the left terminal looks to be H
>>R2, and the marking near the right terminal can't be made out, but does
>>kinda look like FAN. Just think... the hard start is doing all the work
>>; ).
>
>
Could be... If the compressor is spending alot of time in locked rotor cause
it doesn't start properly, it could account for everything. Do all three
burn off, or just two. How's the compressor wire look on L1 on the
compressor side of the contactor? Is it all toasty like the red one? You
said you are replacing a few inches of wire every time it cooks. Maybe the
burning off is starting at the end that you are spicing rather than at the
compressor terminals - hey, it's toasted all the way up to the contactor.
Replace the whole length of wire. After you do a hack.. er, I mean a splice
job, do you check the wires after the compressor runs for a while to see if
they're warm / hot, or do you just wait for thermonuclear meltdown? What's
the line voltage drop to during start? What does the line voltage drop to
across the run windings during start AT THE COMPRESSOR TERMINALS.
The big question is... Why did you put up this for ten years while it was
under warranty?
AKS
every part that is bad need to be replace
but that is not point I was making "ASSHOLE"
<.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:4h30i29bd5um7c14v...@4ax.com...
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
You fucking lame-ass douchebag.
Power's Mechanical
Ken Hall wrote:
sniparoo
Jesus Christ! The fucking thing isnt wired correctly for fucking
sakes! Pay comeone who knows WTF they are doing, replace the
contactor, burnt wires, test and if needed replace the cap, (thats a
run cap BTW not a start) and wire the mother fucker right. The
compressor is a PSC motor and so is the damn fan motor. Look up PSC
motor wiring and all will become clear. Problem over now get the fuck
out of here. Sheesh.
Noon-Air
> On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:05:25 -0500, "Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>>> So, is this causing the leads to burn off the compressor terminals?
>>
>><sigh> Its a combination of things.... the biggest problem is the
>>ignorance
>>of the owner.
>>the
>>lowest bidder. We have already seen *your* work.
>
> off and make nasty insults to people who come here for help? You
> think of this as a video came with real people?
>
> As for "seeing" my work you haven't "seen" a damn piece of my work.
> I'll say AGAIN everything you *see* in that picture was done by a
> "Pro". NONE of it was done by me. So you know what I get by hiring
> the likes of you and know why I now try to fix it myself.
>
> Do you come here to spew out bile, because if you did it to someone's
> face they'd wax the street with you?
I run across your kind of BS on an all too regular basis, then they expect
me to fix their screw-ups for free. If you had called a *competent* tech in
the first place, you wouldn't be having these problems now. I figure that
you got the unit installed by the lowest bidder and it hasn't been right
since day one. You yourself said that the guy screwed with it for 10 years
till the warranty was up and never did correct the cause.
Before you start slinging stuff I don't want to step in, please consider
that those of us that are professionals, see this all the time. I don't have
a problem with walking away from a job. I *do* have a problem with people
that are not professionals, without the training, education, and experience
messing with stuff they really have no business screwing with. I have even
less tollerance for for hacks and guys that "do it on the side".
I have been posting on this news group for as many years and my killfile is
full of folks that get pissy when they don't get told what they want to
hear..... care to join them??
Mo Hoaner
> On Sun, 01 Oct 2006 17:09:38 -0500, Ken Hall
> <kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>>>What's the line voltage drop to during start? What does the line voltage
>>>drop to
>>>across the run windings during start AT THE COMPRESSOR TERMINALS.
>>
>
> The incoming supply voltage at the contactor with the unit idle is
> 144volts
>
> During start the voltage across the compressor terminals T1/T2 rises
> to 143volts within less than 1/2 second. During this half-second my
> meter reads out of range.
>
> With the unit running:
>
> the drop across T1/T2 fluctuates between 142-143v.
>
> the voltage drop from the contactor terminals to the end of each
> lead T1 and T2 is about 0.1volts.
>
> the drop across the contactor contacts is about 0.05volts for
> each contact..
>
> -- Ken
There's part of the problem.... You're about a hundred volts too low. For a
residence - assuming non delta (of any variety) - you should be around
220-250 volts. I can only assume you made an error during your measurements,
your meter is broken, or you made a typo. It ain't gonna start at 143 volts.
Also, someone else here asked for the data from the label / plate on the
compressor in order to do some research...... Model, LRA, FLA, etc.
daytona
I can't believe you all are still beating this dead horse...no pun intended
Now let's get on with the next canidate
Bubba
<kenhall...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
>On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 15:17:44 -0400, "Mo Hoaner" <sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
>
>>The big question is... Why did you put up this for ten years while it was
>>under warranty?
>
>Because my only other option was to pay for repairs that were
>supposed to be under warrenty.
>
>-- Ken
...........and where are you now?
Now you will most likely get to replace the compressor on your dime
because you have let yourself, your buddies and some supposed
"company" work on a unit in which none of you had a clue about. The
terminals are now futzed beyond repair and you get to replace the
compressor, contactor, drier, run cap, refrigerant and any start
components. Or you can replace the whole outdoor unit and indoor coil.
Dont worry, It'll only sting a little.
Bubba
Bubba
Jabs
Jabs
"Noon-Air" <Noon...@comcast.net> wrote: >
> Damn... how can they sell them so cheap? LOL
>
>
Noon-Air
are only charging a 4times mark-up.
"Jabs" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:3G9Ug.9946$xg7....@tornado.socal.rr.com...
Kevin
<.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:0sa0i2temj19lb3sc...@4ax.com...
> Get your suit ready, moron, you're due in court tomorrow.
>
> You fucking lame-ass douchebag.
Paul,
Where is the precedent for winning a judgement against someone because of
advice that was given on a newsgroup?
Tekkie®
>
> So, why do you come here? For you and your buddies to jerk each other
> off and make nasty insults to people who come here for help? You
> think of this as a video came with real people?
>
> As for "seeing" my work you haven't "seen" a damn piece of my work.
> I'll say AGAIN everything you *see* in that picture was done by a
> "Pro". NONE of it was done by me. So you know what I get by hiring
> the likes of you and know why I now try to fix it myself.
>
> Do you come here to spew out bile, because if you did it to someone's
> face they'd wax the street with you?
>
> -- Ken
>
>
Hey, don't get snotty with us! You put up with these fucknuts doing the same
thing for 10 years because you are a dufus, now you want it fixed for free and
fast. I'm surprised these shitbirds haven't sold you a new system.
If the steering column in your Yugo burnt up every six months don't you think
you'd find another pep boys to take it to? Christ they're so lazy by this time
that don't even clean the smoke off the windshield and snicker when you go into
the store to buy more rags and windex...
--
Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need."
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
wrote:
Beats me, but I doubt there is one.
Maybe Dildo could be the first !!!! :-)
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com
>Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need."
I have one you don't need .....
-zero
<.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:vhe3i21fo8f754doa...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 21:15:04 -0400, Tekkie® <Tek...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need."
>
> I have one you don't need .....
You know what they say... one man's tool is another man's "page-bait". 8-)
-zero
Tekkie®
> On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 21:15:04 -0400, Tekkie® <Tek...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need."
>
> I have one you don't need .....
>
>
>
AWWWW you peeked
--
Jabs
.....for 1.6¢ worth of plastic & 5.4¢ worth of electrinics? Try 62,485
times mark-up! Steve, I know you're an excellent HVAC Technician, just a
dumb-ass businessman!
Jabs
Noon-Air
only $51 each *installed* :-)
They cost a bit more than you proported 6 cents per wire.
"Jabs" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:cytZg.13275$gU6....@tornado.socal.rr.com...
Jake
I've used term-loks for other motor applications as well... a decent
design and a real brass alloy lug... nice....
$51 bucks installed ain't bad, Steve.
Jake
12yr Ompressor tech
Sounds like a poor crimp use the right tool for your crimp also check the
tightness of the internal leads of the motor to the post your leads comnect to
they may be loose there is no boost cap special to compressors just start that
dorps off usually by cyntrifical switch once certain RPM is reached if piston
machine check for proper unloading whaen it stops do you hear a puff of air if
so its likely ok if not may ne starting under a load some have unloader on
pressure switch usesnshrader valve others centrifugal still uses shrader valve
located center crank on case and have line teed off to head or in tank check
pressure switch version goes to in tank check adjust till when off no pressure
is there and shrader valve deptesses and when running no air escapes valve
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/hvac/what-causes-compressor-leads-to-burn-off-of-terminals-5781-.htm
Tony944
"12yr Ompressor tech" wrote in message
news:cfc$584f677a$a2d350aa$32...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
anytime
unless happen to be some kind home setup by use of belt driving compressor.
Answer to for burn wires is must likely to be poor connection 99-1.
Refrigeration compressors can draw triple amount of current on startup
In some cases you may need to solder wires when you splice making sure
making sure that are tight, and use good quality stranded wire ,
"DO NOT USE SOLID WIRE"
Tony944
"12yr Ompressor tech" wrote in message
news:cfc$584f677a$a2d350aa$32...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
fluctuation on supply source,
In some area depend where you at can have large fluctuation of Voltage,
current on startup is also very important.