What solution to use to clean clock mechanisms?
Jonathan Hearn
What sort of solution should I use to clean several old brass
mechanisms? Where do I get it? Do I need to use ultrasonic equipment?
What would I use to clean an old wooden clock mechanism?
Thanks,
Jonathan
Ernest Bramah
Jonathan Hearn wrote:
A mixture of household ammonia, liquid soap and hot water does the job
with a little polishing after an hour's soak.Try about a pint of
ammonia(domestic strength,I use lab supply stuff and much less of it as
it is a stronger solution,but works out cheaper for quantity)Half a
gallon of water and a quarter cup or less of soap.Add the soat to the
very hot water,go outdoors with it(ammonia fumes) and add the ammonia
.Stand upwind and add the clock parts.This solution will also remove
paint so do not include anything that you want to stay painted.It is
specifically for brass.Rinse and rinse again after use.
You can buy solvents but they cost about ten times as much per gallon.An
ultrasonic tank does a great job but you have to work out how much you
will use it to see if it is cost effective,use of commercial solvents is
recommended in these.
Mike Murray
Jonathan Hearn <jhe...@interlog.com> wrote:
>What sort of solution should I use to clean several old brass
>mechanisms? Where do I get it? Do I need to use ultrasonic equipment?
>
>What would I use to clean an old wooden clock mechanism?
The following file is available at my Web site under the repair
FTP Web link (repair.shtml) at:
"http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/".
The file can also be accessed via FTP (File Transfer Protocol)
through both of my FTP sites which are:
("webcom.com/pub/z4murray/main" or "ftp.netcom.com/pub/mi/mikem").
The file name is cleaner.mcc.
Last updated July 06, 1997.
Copyright 1995-1997 Michael P. Murray
The following file is a rudimentary procedure and you assume
all responsibility for its use or any consequences that may be derived
from it's preparation, storage, or use.
The following is my home made clock cleaning solution formula.
******** CAUTION ******** CAUTION ********
This is a fresh air and rubber gloves formula!!!
4 oz. Acetone (Commercial)
4 oz. Oleic Acid
4 oz. Any liquid detergent (clothes or dish soap)
**8 oz. Ammonia (27% Commercial)
First start with a 1/2 gal. of water (the "purer" the better).
Add acetone and oleic acid until completely blended.
Then add the detergent mixing well.
Slowly add ammonia while again mixing well.
Store in plastic container with tight fitting lid.
When ready to use, mix 1:1 ratio with water.
** It must be noted that if you are cleaning a movement made prior
to 1820, that used cast brass for its' plates and wheels, then you
should use household ammonia. The reason being is that SCC, or
Stress Corrosion Cracking, the which is caused by ammonia and
especially prevalent with high concentrated ammonia.
The oleic acid is a strong grease and oil solvent (it will
remove oils from the skin too). The ammonia is a good metal cleaner.
The acetone serves as an emulsifier so that the oleic acid, ammonia,
and water will mix. The detergent acts to remove the common dirt and
"holds" the rest of the contaminants.
You can purchase everything above with the exception of the
oleic acid and the high concentrated ammonia at your local hardware
store. The oleic acid can be purchased at a chemical supply house.
The high concentrated ammonia can be found at a printers supply
house, or a chemical supply house. Just ask you local high school
or college chemistry department where they get their chemical
supplies from.
I get all of my chemicals from the following and they ship
U.P.S.:
Chem-Lab Supplies
13814 Inglewood Avenue
Hawthorne, CA 90250
310-973-2391
or
1060 Ortega Way, Unit C
Placentia, CA 92670
714-630-7902
The acetone (commercial) comes in pints, gallons, or 5 gallons
containers.
The oleic acid comes in either pints or gallons containers.
The ammonium hydroxide (27% commercial) comes in pints, gallons,
or 5 gallons containers.
The isopropyl alcohol (99%) comes in pints, gallons, or 5 gallons
containers.
After you prepare the above the only question the remains is
how to use it to clean a clock or watch movement.
First you will need a final rinse solution. I use commercial
grade isopropyl alcohol. This is rubbing alcohol but at a 99% purity.
Do NOT use the stuff at the drug store or pharmacy because its only
70% and you might have rust problems. You should be able to get this
from the same source as the oleic acid.
There are simply too many variables to put into a "quick" file.
My advise is to purchase a good clock repair book from one of the book
suppliers in my file publica.mcc
Bearing that in mind and with the movement disassembled, first
remove all strike and chime hammers. These tend to deteriorate and
should not be cleaned. Then you place the movement`s parts inside
some
strainers that will fit into your solution container. Turn on the
ultrasonic or swish the strainer (its usually good to do both at a
time) around for a minute or so. Any longer then the lacquer will
start to peel. If that happens then you MUST remove all of the
lacquer. If the movement is very old and/or does not have lacquer,
then I like to clean it for at least ten minutes.
After the cleaner bath you must go directly into a warm (hot)
water container and then directly into another bath of warm (hot)
water (that make three baths so far). After the second water bath,
dry it somewhat with a hand dryer or a commercial box dryer. You
don't have to dry it completely because the final rinse of 99%
isopropyl alcohol will remove all remaining water. The alcohol
rinse should be for about 30 seconds. After that dry completely
and use a 1,500 watt hair dryer.
I will stop here because my intent is to inform and not to
educate. I do not see the Internet as a school or a substitute for
professional service.
For more information please see my file yourself.mcc
A reply from, E-mail address: mi...@netcom.com
Mike Murray Founder of Clocksmiths
A specialist in Atmos and 400-day (anniversary) clock repair.
Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks.
In continuous horological service since 04/01/1982.
Mike's Clock Clinic
1326 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, California (CA) USA 90404-2502
Phone: 310-828-6707 or Fax: 310-828-7381
Memberships: AWI # 17851; Clocksmiths; NAWCC # 074021
My main Web site is located at "http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/"
Home of my unofficial AWI Web site which is located at:
"http://www.webcom.com/z4murray/awi.shtml"
Main FTP site is located at "ftp://ftp.netcom.com/pub/mi/mikem"
Laura Crawford
>What would I use to clean an old wooden clock mechanism?
First, remove dial and hands (after removing movement from case).
Next, soak wooden works movement overnight in 92 octane gasoline. On
the following day, remove said movement from bath, and *very
cautiously* place it on a large rock. Strike a match and set it on
fire. Voila, it is CLEAN! -CAUTION: do not use gasoline inside.
Thomas Paul Anderson
Laura Crawford (laur...@netscope.net) wrote:
: >What would I use to clean an old wooden clock mechanism?
: First, remove dial and hands (after removing movement from case).
: Next, soak wooden works movement overnight in 92 octane gasoline. On
: the following day, remove said movement from bath, and *very
: cautiously* place it on a large rock. Strike a match and set it on
: fire. Voila, it is CLEAN! -CAUTION: do not use gasoline inside.
: http://www.woodenclock.hater.com
On a more serious note, you do not have to "clean" the plates, obviously.
The best method is to dis-assmeble and use round toothpicks to clean the grime
from the bushings (pipe cleaners work well on the larger sizes). You could
dip the toothpicks/cleaners in a bit of lighter fluid. Clean the pivots by
stabbing them into some soft wood (like balsa blocks from a hobby store).
That should do it (assuming wooden pinions/gears).
Good Luck!