How do I count the jewels in a pocketwatch?
iain...@btinternet.com
knowing how to count the number of jewels, and would appreciate if any of you
could point me in the right direction. Thanks Iain
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Murray
>I am interested in learning some more about watch movements, especially
>knowing how to count the number of jewels, and would appreciate if any of you
>could point me in the right direction.
Only the jewels that act as bearings for pivots are important. Some
makers pasted superfluous jewels on the back to increase the count.
There are usually 7 in the escapement. Ideally, there should be one
on the front plate for each one you can see on the back. If you can
see 4 on the back plate, that's 8, add the 7 in the esc., and you have
15. This is about the minimum for any quality. Other jewels were
added in various configurations, and there are several places they may
be where you cannot see them without taking the watch apart.
Check out some watch books in your local library.
Regards from Murray. In Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Dan
By Roy Ehrhardt and William Meggers
The number of jewels in a watch movement is one of the factors that
determine its value to collectors. Generally speaking, for watches of high
production (more than 10,000) the greater the number of jewels the higher
the value. For lower production watches this rule also applies to a limited
extent but when the production drops below a couple thousand scarcity
dominates. Thus, 7, 11 and 15-jewel Hamilton watches demand very high prices
relative to the 17 and higher jeweled Models and 19-jewel Illinois "Sangamo
Specials" are valued higher than 21 or 23-jewel "Sangamo Specials."
Since jewel count is a factor in determining the value of a watch, it is
worthwhile knowing how to determine the number of jewels without
disassembling the movement. Fortunately, most American watches with 15 or
more jewels are clearly marked. However, a sufficient number of unmarked
11-jewel watches are sold as 15-jewel so that it is useful to know what the
common jeweling practice was. First, however, it should be noted that jewels
are both functional and cosmetic. Their use originally was purely functional
to reduce friction and wear--but as soon as the watchmaker recognized their
eye appeal value they took on added significance. Swiss manufacturers
sometimes carried this to ridiculous extremes by adding jewels where there
were no pivots to protect, just to increase the apparent quality of the
watch.
The introduction of jewels in watches was prompted by the need for reducing
the friction and resultant wear of those parts of the watch that are
critical to its timekeeping and reliability. In a lever escapement movement
these parts are: the balance staff pivots, the roller pin, and the pallets.
Consequently, if a hole jewel and a cap jewel are placed on each end of the
staff and the roller pin and both pallets are also jeweled, we have a
seven-jewel watch. A, L, Rawlings, author of "The Science of Clocks and
Watches," states that seven jewels really are all that are required.
Therefore, the jewels beyond this number are primarily cosmetic; that is,
they do more for the appearance of the watch than they do for its mechanical
perfection. The point is arguable but there is at least some evidence to
support Rawlings' contention. For example, many manufacturers of American
watches made some nine and eleven jeweled watches in which the extra jewels
were all in the top plate so that two or four arbors were jeweled on one end
only, where it showed. If these extra jewels really were inserted for
functional reasons one would expect to find half of them hidden.
Advertisements for these watches which appeared in trade catalogs of the
period even touted them as "having an appearance almost like the higher
Grades because the upper plate is full-jeweled", (A 15-jewel watch was
called "full jeweled" by the trade.)
Returning to the question of how to determine the number of jewels in a
watch without taking it apart, the following paragraphs will describe how
the American watch manufacturers typically configured each of their various
jewel counts. This will take care of the majority of watches; however, due
to the practice of cosmetic jeweling, it will occasionally be necessary to
remove the dial to make an absolute determination.
Seven (7) Jewels: With the exception of the cheaper "dollar" watches
practically all American-made watches have at least seven jewels. These are
always placed as previously described, a hole jewel and cap jewel on each
end of the balance staff, a jewel for the roller pin, and two pallet jewels.
In full plate watches you will only be able to see the upper balance jewels
in the balance cock. In three-quarter plate and bridge watches you should
also be able to see the pallet jewels and possibly the roller pin jewel.
Nine (9) Jewels: Relatively few watches were made with nine jewels. The two
extra jewels usually were placed on the upper ends of the third and fourth
wheel arbors where they added cosmetic value to the watch. Unfortunately,
this arrangement cannot be distinguished from a functionally jeweled
11-jewel movement without removing the dial.
Eleven (11) Jewels: There appear to be only two 11-jewel configurations.
Either the four extra jewels are placed just in the upper plates or they are
placed in two pairs, that is, a pair of jewels on the upper and lower ends
of two arbors. The first configuration is cosmetic while the second is
functional. The cosmetic arrangement of 11 jewels cannot be distinguished
from 15 jewels without removing the dial and examining the lower (pillar)
plate. Fortunately, however, most 15-jewel watches were marked "15 Jewels"
so this will only be necessary occasionally. If the watch appears to have 15
jewels but is not marked it is safest to assume it has 11 jewels.
Twelve (12) Jewels: The 12-jewel configuration is one of the rarest in terms
of total quantity produced. In most cases the additional five jewels are
arranged in 2-1/2 pairs with a pair on the pallet and escape arbors plus an
extra jewel on the upper end of the fourth wheel arbor. In other words, a
logical extension of the functionally jeweled 11-jewel watch. However, in at
least one case, the Illinois "Currier" Grade, some third Model (5th pinion)
movements have five cosmetic jewels, all in the top plate.
Thirteen (13) Jewels: This also is an uncommon jewel configuration. As in
the case of the 12-jewel watch, the 13-jewel watch is a further extension of
functional jeweling with three full pairs of jewels, which means that both
ends of the fourth, escape and pallet arbors are jeweled. However, some
movements have the third pair arranged as cosmetic jewels in the top plate
on the third and fourth wheel arbors, and have the appearance of being
15-jewel watches.
Fifteen (15) Jewels: These were called "full-jeweled" by the trade and
almost invariably the eight extra jewels are arranged in four pairs,
positioned on each end of the third, fourth, escape, and pallet arbors,
leaving only the center and barrel arbors unjeweled. As indicated earlier,
this is the configuration most often confused with the cosmetic 11 or
13-jewel configurations so if a watch is not marked "15 Jewels" but appears
to be so, be wary, you probably will have to look under the dial to tell for
sure, unless it is a full plate 18 size Grade "Stuart", "Bunn", "Miller",
"Dean", "B.W. Raymond", "Crescent Street", "Railway", etc.
Sixteen (16) Jewels: Another interesting variant, these watches are somewhat
uncommon but not nearly as scarce as the 12 and 13-jewel watches. Most are
not marked and they are easily confused with 17-jewel watches because many
examples have the 16th jewel on the upper end of the center wheel arbor,
while the lower end of that arbor is not jeweled. However, there also are
some 18-size watches which have a fifth pinion that is jeweled only on the
upper end; for example, the Illinois Grade "103".
Seventeen (17) Jewels: Generally speaking, except for the early watches, all
American watches with 17 or more jewels are clearly marked. With one
exception, the jewel configuration for 17 jewels is such that all arbors
except the barrel have jewels on both ends. This was the minimum acceptable
jewel count for railroad watches once the railroads developed such criteria:
however, it was not acceptable on all railroads, since some required at
least 19 jewels. The single exception to this configuration occurs in some
18-size watches which have fifth pinions that carry the seconds hand. In
these watches, the last two jewels are on the ends of the fifth pinion arbor
rather than on the center arbor.
Eighteen (18) Jewels: Very few watches are found with 18 jewels; however,
recently an 18-size Illinois Grade "65-5" movement was examined that is
marked "18 Jewels". This particular movement has a fifth pinion and the 18th
jewel was inserted in the upper plate for the 5th pinion so that all pinions
are jeweled on the upper side. The watch was made especially for Wilson
Brothers, a jeweler, which probably accounts for the unusual jeweling.
Nineteen (19) Jewels: Excluding watches with fifth pinions, once all the
train arbors are jeweled on both ends, any additional jewels must be added
either to the mainspring barrel or as cap jewels to one or more arbors in
the train. There appear to have been three principal 19-jewel configurations
used by the watch industry: cap jeweled pallet, jeweled barrel and cap
jeweled escape. Elgin employed all three variations in their 16-size B,W.
Raymond. Nineteen-jewel watches were not produced in large quantities.
Twenty-one (21) Jewels: The epitome of high Grade watches, the 21-jewel
movement has over the years acquired the appellation "Railroad Watch". Most
21-jewel Railroad Grade watches have cap jewels on both the pallet and
escape arbors (as well as the balance) so that the last three arbors in the
train are cap jeweled on both ends; however, some 16 and 12-size watches
have uncapped pallet arbors and jeweled barrels.
Twenty-three (23) Jewels: With only a few exceptions, 23-jewel watches were
the highest jewel configurations offered by most companies. The exceptions
are Seth Thomas, which made up to 28 jewels, Illinois and Rockford, which
made up to 26 jewels, and Hampden which allegedly made up to 25-jewel
watches. The most frequently found configurations with 23 jewels incorporate
cap jewels on the balance, pallet, and escape arbors plus a jeweled barrel.
However, another configuration appears in some 16-size Illinois watches made
before development of the jeweled barrel. Early versions of these watches
had cap jewels on the third wheel arbor instead of a jeweled barrel.
Twenty-four (24) Jewels: The most common 24-jewel watch is the Illinois
18-size Grade "Bunn Special". This watch has the standard 21-jewel
configuration plus cap jewels on both ends of the third wheel arbor and an
impressive looking but non-functional jewel on the upper end of the barrel
arbor. The evidence strongly suggests that the 24-jewel watch was designed
to be a prestige watch which would appeal to the buyer who wanted a watch
with more jewels than anyone else offered. The fact that more than 11,000
were produced suggests that this advertising strategy worked.
Twenty-five (25) Jewels: At this point, we have gotten into the region where
so few watches exist that it is difficult to find examples. The only
Illinois Grade listed with 25 jewels, is the 16-size "Sangamo", fourth and
fifth models. The watches actually seen are marked Benjamin Franklin rather
than "Sangamo". The jeweling configuration is essentially a combination of
both of the aforementioned 16-size 23-jewel configurations; that is, cap
jewels on the third wheel arbor and a jeweled barrel. The Seth Thomas
18-size 25 jewel Maiden Lane is jeweled differently. It has cap jewels on
the pallet, escape, third and upper fourth arbors plus a cosmetic jewel on
the upper barrel arbor.
Twenty-six (26) Jewels: Illinois made the only known 26-jewel watch, the
'18-size "Bunn Special" Grade, Model 6. Unlike the 25-jewel watches, this
has been seen both with Illinois and private label names on it (a
Pennsylvania Special and a Benjamin Franklin), The configuration is a
combination of the 23 and 24-jewel 18-size watches, That is, a 24-jewel
watch in which a functionally (internally) jeweled barrel has been
installed, adding two more jewels to the 24, for a total of 26. This means
there are actually three jewels associated with the barrel, two functional
and one cosmetic.
MORE THAN (26) TWENTY SIX JEWELS: Beyond 26 jewels, it is possible still to
add three more jewels to the movement: a cap jewel on the upper end of the
center wheel arbor and two jewels for the banking pins. A 16 size Waltham
movement has been reported as having a cap jewel on the upper end of the
center wheel arbor but I believe this to be very unusual, at least among
American watches. The 16-size 23-jewel Howard, Series O, Model A did employ
the jeweled banking pin idea. This was another way of achieving 23 jewels
without going to the expense of a jeweled barrel, A 28 jewel Maiden Lane has
not been examined but it seems probable that the three additional jewels are
associated with the barrel.
Space does not permit discussion of all the possible jeweling arrangements
and counts; consequently, some of the less common have been omitted: for
example, 10 and 20 jewels found on some Lancaster-Keystone watches and 22
jewels used in the sweep second handed military watches. Also, Seth Thomas
used a different configuration with unjeweled center arbor on some of their
17 and 19 jewel movements, and there are others.
Undoubtedly, as additional watches are examined more variations in jeweling
will be discovered; however, it should be possible to determine the number
of jewels in most AMERICAN-MADE watch movements on the basis of the
foregoing information. For convenience, the distinguishing features for each
configuration are listed in the following summary. In applying this
information to a specific watch, it may be helpful to refer to pages 25, 26
and 27.
AMERICAN WATCH CO.'S JEWELING PRACTICE
No. of Jewels Distinguishing Features
7 Only one visible pivot jewel--that on the balance cock,
9* Two plate jewels visible and none under dial.
11* Two plate jewels visible and two under dial, or four plate jewels
visible and none under dial,
12* Three plate jewels visible and two under dial if movement does not
have a fifth pinion. Otherwise, five plate jewels visible and none under
dial. (Applies to 18-size watches only, others unknown.)
13* Three plate jewels visible and three under dial or four plate jewels
visible and two under the dial.
15* Four plate jewels visible and four under the dial; frequently marked
as to jewel count.
16* Five plate jewels Visible and four under the dial; probably not
marked.
17* Five plate jewels visible and five under the dial; probably marked.
18* Six plate jewels visible and five under the dial; movement has
top-jeweled fifth pinion. (Applies to 18-size watches only.) Probably
marked.
19 Five plate jewels visible and five under the dial; either escape
wheel arbor cap-jeweled or jeweled barrel. Always marked.
21 Five plate jewels visible and five under the dial; pallet and escape
wheel arbors cap-jeweled or uncapped pallet and jeweled barrel. Always
marked.
23 Five plate jewels visible and five under the dial; either pallet,
escape and third wheel arbors cap-jeweled or pallet and escape wheel arbors
cap-jeweled and jeweled barrel. Always marked.
24 Six plate jewels visible and five under the dial; pallet, escape and
third wheel arbors cap-jeweled. Always marked.
25 Five plate jewels visible and five under the dial; pallet, escape
and third wheel arbors cap-jeweled, and jeweled barrel, or pallet, escape,
third and upper fourth arbors cap-jeweled and upper barrel arbor jeweled.
Always marked.
26 Six plate jewels visible and five under the dial; pallet, escape and
third wheel arbors cap-jeweled and jeweled barrel. Always marked.
* These jewel counts result in ambiguous configurations and may require
removal of dial in order to make a correct determination.
iain...@btinternet.com wrote in message
<7cub87$kq0$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>I am interested in learning some more about watch movements, especially
>knowing how to count the number of jewels, and would appreciate if any of
you
>could point me in the right direction.ThanksIain
Justin Koullapis
only bearings for pivots, then the jewels should total at least 8 in an
average Swiss watch; 2 for the balance pivots, 2 for the balance endstones,
and two each for the pallet and 'scape wheel pivots. Then there are the
impulse pin and pallets, which add another 3. Also, there is not necessarily
a jewel in the dial plate for every jewel in the train holes on the back
plate. Many watches do not have jewelled top centre pivot holes.
It's a very general study, and difficult to come to any absolute conclusion
;-)
Justin