Tightening a cannon pinion
Sevesteen
tighten a cannon pinion--At the time, I didn't have a staking set, so I
didn't know where to ask for clarification. Now that I have one, I'm
totally confused.
>From what I've read, and comparing a cannon pinion tightener to the
stakes and stumps in my set, it would appear that the closest match
with what I have would be to use a V-shaped stump and the stake that
looks sort of like a worn-out flat screwdriver. The pinion would go
with the tube part nearest the wheel in the V. A tapered brass pin
should go inside the pinion, and I should tap gently on the stake.
Completely different than what I think dAz was recommending.
If that's not right, can someone try to explain it in small words,
including non-watchmaker's descriptions of the stakes and stumps
involved?
While I'm here, is there a good reason not to use a hand puller to
remove cannon pinions?
Frank Adam
wrote:
The idea is to close up the tube by a whisker. The staking set simply
allows you to be a bit more precise, but i use the 'D' tweezers or
even a sharp set of end cutters to do that job, sometimes having a
reamer inserted into the canon pinion for safety.
Anyway, just use a flat stake, pick out the V shaped punch(kinda like
a chisel edge), put something like a reamer or a pin(slightly smaller
than the canon pinion's hole) through the canon pinion, lay it flat on
it's side and tap the tube on the side where you see the original
indentation. The pin/reamer/oiler is only used so if you squash too
hard, you will not collapse the canon pinion, because once collapsed,
you've killed Kenny.
>While I'm here, is there a good reason not to use a hand puller to
>remove cannon pinions?
>
They are generally too weak and you need to keep the hand puller in
good nick, so breaking or scoring them is not a good idea.
There are canon pinion removers, which look similar to a hand remover,
but heftier built.
Or we're back to the trusty 'D' tweezers and end cutter. :-)
--
Regards, Frank
dAz
>
>>From what I've read, and comparing a cannon pinion tightener to the
> stakes and stumps in my set, it would appear that the closest match
> with what I have would be to use a V-shaped stump and the stake that
> looks sort of like a worn-out flat screwdriver. The pinion would go
> with the tube part nearest the wheel in the V. A tapered brass pin
> should go inside the pinion, and I should tap gently on the stake.
> Completely different than what I think dAz was recommending.
dunno cannot remember :)
use a tapered brass pin lightly inserted in the cannon pinion to prevent
accidents like crushing the tube, not good.
the tool I use is one of these
http://members.tripod.com/~watchdoc/canon_pinion_toolB.JPG
little "V" block the pinion rests in and the punch is screw driver shaped.
I also use a pair of "D" tweezers, depends on my mood.
so I find the cannon pinion is a bit loose for my liking, so the "D"
tweezers come out to pull the CP off, slide it on a tapered brass pin,
check to see where the dimple is on the tube, position the "D" tweezers,
give it a bit of a squeeze, slide the CP off the tapered pin, pop it
back on the centre wheel and test, repeat if necessary.
thats ok for wrist watch cannon pinions, some thing heavier like pocket
watch CPs I use the litle tool or the staking set if its setup
my staking set has a small flat stump with a half round groove, but if
yours has the V block that is fine
here is another CP tool that uses a screw punch to adjust it
http://members.tripod.com/~watchdoc/canon_pin_tool.jpg
> While I'm here, is there a good reason not to use a hand puller to
> remove cannon pinions?
>
some tools on this page
http://www.ofrei.com/page558.html
the one at the top is used on a Seitz jewel press, not a bad if you have
the press.
the Bergeon #2 Presto tool can be used to pull cannon pinions, it would
be strong enough for the job, but the good old "D" tweezers is all I
have ever used
http://shorinternational.com/TweezersDumontCut.htm (bottom of page)
there is a staking setup on this page for tightening the cannon pinion
http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium0039
notes:
when using "D" tweezers to pull the cannon pinion off, take care to make
sure the jaws have gripped the cannon pinion properly, take a firm grip,
hold the movement firmly, and pull straight up, don't wiggle it, also if
the there is a sweep seconds wheel on the movement, be sure not to to
slip with the "D" tweezers, otherwise it will snap shut on the seconds
arbour and chop it off, ok!.
..........
now when you have all this setup and just about to whack the hammer on
the punch to tighten the cannon pinion, do it lightly!!!!, it doesn't
matter if you have to take the Cannon pinion off and on 2-3 times to
tighten it.
if you do hit it too hard then use a old reamer to smooth the bore out
and yes you will more then likely need to tighten it again after.
..........
if you come across one of those cannon pinions on a swiss cylinder
geneva bar movement, the removal and tightening of those is a bit
different, you don't use "D" tweezers to remove them, if you get one to
play with I will tell you how :)
Dave Johnson
>
>> While I'm here, is there a good reason not to use a hand puller to
>> remove cannon pinions?
>>
>
>some tools on this page
>http://www.ofrei.com/page558.html
>
>the one at the top is used on a Seitz jewel press, not a bad if you have
>the press.
Overkill for my level and budget. Maybe in a few years.
>
>the Bergeon #2 Presto tool can be used to pull cannon pinions, it would
>be strong enough for the job, but the good old "D" tweezers is all I
>have ever used
>http://shorinternational.com/TweezersDumontCut.htm (bottom of page)
>
The hand remover seems to work fine, just wanted to make sure there
wasn't something I was missing. I'll probably get another smaller
hand remover to use on hands.
>
>there is a staking setup on this page for tightening the cannon pinion
>http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium0039
This is basically what I was using, except I used a different punch,
and I don't have the lever on top. I'll try the pointed punch next
time.
--
A people who extend civil liberties only to preferred groups start down the
path either to a dictatorship of the right or the left."
-Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas
dAz
> On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 23:59:39 +1100, dAz <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote:
> The hand remover seems to work fine, just wanted to make sure there
> wasn't something I was missing. I'll probably get another smaller
> hand remover to use on hands.
if your handremover is lighter than the presto #2 then you will damage
the jaws in time, I don't like using hand removers for that job anyway,
you always have to be aware where the legs of the hand remover is
pressing, snapped off sub-seconds pinion anyone?
>> there is a staking setup on this page for tightening the cannon pinion
>> http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium0039
>
> This is basically what I was using, except I used a different punch,
> and I don't have the lever on top. I'll try the pointed punch next
> time.
>
yep, except you don't need the lever setup part, I prefer the blade
punch because it makes a better wider dimple than the point punch
guido alave
guido alave
pinions the best tool is: a thin broach ans a nail clipper, just slide
the broach,into the pinion tight then tighten the pinion with the nail
clipper over the the factory notch. it works perfect, if too tigh just
press the opposit side of the notch . guido
Sevesteen
dAz wrote:
> Dave Johnson wrote:
> > On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 23:59:39 +1100, dAz <dazb@zipDOTcomDOTau> wrote:
>
>
> if your handremover is lighter than the presto #2 then you will damage
> the jaws in time, I don't like using hand removers for that job anyway,
I don't know what number mine is, but I think it's better suited for
pocket watches than wristwatches. I'm fairly sure that the jaws will
be OK, and if not, I think a smaller one would work better for me
anyhow. The one I'm using isn't a Bergeron by any means, so if it does
get damaged, no great loss, just a delay while I order a new one.
> you always have to be aware where the legs of the hand remover is
> pressing, snapped off sub-seconds pinion anyone?
Once the dial is off, I don't think you can ever afford to lose track
of what's threatening to snap the sub-seconds pinion.
> > This is basically what I was using, except I used a different punch,
> > and I don't have the lever on top. I'll try the pointed punch next
> > time.
> >
>
> yep, except you don't need the lever setup part, I prefer the blade
> punch because it makes a better wider dimple than the point punch
OK, I won't try the pointed punch next time.
Thanks dAz and Frank, as usual.
Jack Denver
with added leverage. I suppose you have to be very careful to have a fine
touch because of all that leverage or else you could over do it badly. But
that's a very clever solution. Bravo for your creativity.
"guido alave" <alave...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1140676456.3...@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...