clock oilers and oil
Chuck McCormack
there is a high quality clock oil that I can use for all clock
movement applications.
The Baron
oiler but I don't know if it is made anymore. The small container of
Etsyntha comes in a ''pen oiler'' container, it works well enough. You can
also purchase ''throw away'' oil for $1, it comes in the same type of
container.
"Chuck McCormack" <cssc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:95db942d.03042...@posting.google.com...
dddd
clock groups, there is actually a cult following for the use of Mobil 1 on
the basis that since it is synthetic, Etsyntha must be a ripoff. When I
asked why they don't then use Quaker State because it is cheaper still, they
got all upset.
My only complaint about the Etsyntha is that when I knock the bottle over, I
literally see money pouring out. I have since taken to super gluing it to a
little pen stand; I put cork (or pith) in the pen wells and keep my clock
oilers stored there.
As for clock oilers, simply take some soft steel (or brass) rod and squash
the end. Then hammer some more to flatten it nicely and file it to a shape
that gets you the amount of oil you want.
I switched to the Etsyntha several years ago on the word of Steve Berger
(owner of Timesavers) after I was getting failures two or three years out
with the LaPerle oils. I haven't looked back since.
--
Regards,
Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Ebay Sales:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=dsc
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution
"The Baron" <theb...@flash.net> wrote in message
news:iQmpa.34$7N4.5...@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com...
Ian Timshel
> I am trying to determine what the best available clock oiler is and if
> there is a high quality clock oil that I can use for all clock
> movement applications.
I'm interested to see the enthusiasm for Etsyntha 869. I don't know
this oil and have always used the "Moebius" brands. Now I'm using the
Moebius 8040 for clocks but I just began trials with this and would
appreciate all comments regarding lubrication.
Cheers! Ian.
--
Please remove "REMOVE" in my email address to reach me.
dAz
> Chuck McCormack squeezed out:
>
>> I am trying to determine what the best available clock oiler is and if
>> there is a high quality clock oil that I can use for all clock movement
>> applications.
>
> I'm interested to see the enthusiasm for Etsyntha 869. I don't know
> this oil and have always used the "Moebius" brands. Now I'm using the
> Moebius 8040 for clocks but I just began trials with this and would
> appreciate all comments regarding lubrication.
>
>
I used the Moebius oils for clocks over a 25 year period up until 3-4
years ago, I was starting to get problems with the Moebius oils going dark
a few weeks from the service, I always bought fresh oil once a year
regardless of how much was left in the bottle, it seemed to me that the
quality had changed and not as stable as it used to be.
I had a vienna regulator I did 6 years prior come back for a service, the
moebius oil had gone green and gummy in that period to the point that some
of the wheels were stuck in the plates, this time I used the Etsyntha 859
oil, I checked the clock 2 years later and found the oil is still stable
and doing the job and without much colour change.
Ian Timshel
dAz.
Thanks for speaking up. Much appreciated. I'm onto it like a fly
on... well.. you know.
The Baron
However, the cost of oil used per clock is not expensive.
"Ian Timshel" <itschaot...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:0xJpa.4027$pd6....@news1.mts.net...
dAz
> Remember it is expensive and as ddd said, you don't want to spill any.
> However, the cost of oil used per clock is not expensive.
>
I buy it in the 4ml pen oiler at $16 each from laRose, its dearer still
that way but then I am not worried about spilling any if I knock the
container over and I have found the wastage has dropped to virtually
zero, where as before I would decant clock oil into an oil pot, use it
for a few days, wipe it out and put fresh oil in the pot, etc, etc,
40-50% of the oil would be thrown away.
I still use an oil pot for the smaller jobs like platforms, travel alarms
etc.
I use 3 maybe 4 or those oilers per year so the overall cost is not realy
a factor
Airy R Bean
Let it stand for two years.
Draw off the thinner oils with a pipette.
(Advice from local antique dealer / clock repairer and maker)
Chuck McCormack <cssc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:95db942d.03042...@posting.google.com...
paul s
> Buy Neatsfoot Oil (Not Neatsfoot Oil Compound).
> Let it stand for two years.
> Draw off the thinner oils with a pipette.
Hello Gareth, What you doing in here? URA got to boring for you?
> (Advice from local antique dealer / clock repairer and maker)
>
> Chuck McCormack <cssc...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:95db942d.03042...@posting.google.com...
>> I am trying to determine what the best available clock oiler is and if
>> there is a high quality clock oil that I can use for all clock
>> movement applications.
--
Paul S
paul s
> Buy Neatsfoot Oil (Not Neatsfoot Oil Compound).
> Let it stand for two years.
> Draw off the thinner oils with a pipette.
Hello Gareth, What you doing in here? _real_ ham radio got too boring for
you?
> (Advice from local antique dealer / clock repairer and maker)
>
> Chuck McCormack <cssc...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:95db942d.03042...@posting.google.com...
>> I am trying to determine what the best available clock oiler is and if
>> there is a high quality clock oil that I can use for all clock
>> movement applications.
--
Paul S
Veet Jaroh
You should log in to horological supplier house web site like:
http://www.julesborel.com/products.htm or search for information at
www.awi-net.org
and purchase modern clock oil.
Veet
"Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
news:3efed...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
Airy R Bean
clock going with the chemicals of the time it was made, or
whether you are in any way producing a modern replica.
Yes, the old oils may gum up more rapidly than the new
chemicals, but the clock has run for 200-300 years using
them. Some modern chemicals, such as cleaning agents, are
reputed to attack the zinc in the brass, and cause ultimately-fatal
structural cracking. What evidence is there about the long
term effects (50 years +) of the modern oils?
You wouldn't use polyurethane varnish on an old case.
And when you replace wheels, you use hammer-hardened brass.
And you endeavour to match the brass colour.
A modern horological supplier is interested in modern horological profits,
and not in the longevity of old clocks which are the human races'
technological heirlooms.
Veet Jaroh <jaro...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:sjGLa.535868$vU3.1...@news1.central.cox.net...
> Sorry, but it is ridiculous advise. Maybe was good 98 years ego.
> You should log in to horological supplier house web site like:
> http://www.julesborel.com/products.htm or search for information at
> www.awi-net.org
> and purchase modern clock oil.
> "Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
> news:3efed...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
> > Buy Neatsfoot Oil (Not Neatsfoot Oil Compound).
.....
The Baron
electricity?
"Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
news:3effe...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
dAz
> Yes, the old oils may gum up more rapidly than the new chemicals, but
> the clock has run for 200-300 years using them.
while I do agree with you about using cast brass hammer hardened to
replace missing/damaged parts in an old clock, using shelac varnish and
hide glue to repair/restore clock cases
your idea of using neatsfoot oil treated that way will cause more damage
to a clock than any modern clock oil will.
have a read of Britten's clock handbook to see the treatment process for
neatsfoot and whale oil before it could be used in a clock or watch
Airy R Bean
using mineral oil being used in a clock or watch - it doesn't stay
where it is put.
To what damage do you refer? ISTR that Britten's essay upon
the treatment of Neatsfoot oil is very much to do with removing
the heavier oils, which is where I came in.
dAz <da...@nonspam-zip.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f00db7d$0$732$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
> On Mon, 30 Jun 2003 17:24:27 +1000, Airy R Bean wrote:
> > Yes, the old oils may gum up more rapidly than the new chemicals, but
> > the clock has run for 200-300 years using them.
dAz
> To what damage do you refer? ISTR that Britten's essay upon the
> treatment of Neatsfoot oil is very much to do with removing the heavier
> oils, which is where I came in.
pitting in the brass, neatsfoot will react with brass because of the acid,
same goes with a certain brand of clock oil based on natural oils, goes
green and gummy, it leave a ring around the pivot hole on the inside of
the plate where the rancid oil has attacked the plate
one of the reasons I started using 859 synthetic oil a few years ago, its
very neutral and stays put.
don't forget those old clocks of 200-300 years ago were getting a regular
service every 5-6 years at least when they were new, so natural oils were
not a real problem then
Airy R Bean
Is it part of an international code to identify oils
and their constituents? Perhaps a proprietary
name?
dAz <da...@nonspam-zip.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f01444d$0$727$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
dAz
> What is the significance of, "859"?
>
Etsyntha 859 synthetic clock oil
The Baron
their feet.
"dAz" <da...@nonspam-zip.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f0223b9$0$729$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
John Losch
To the list:
There is an article on my WEB page that discusses several aspects of
clock oil, oiling, and oilers. Go to :
http://home.att.net/~jclosch/articles.htm#oil Jcl
"The Baron" <theb...@flash.net> wrote in message
news:CBpMa.218$kv1...@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com...
Airy R Bean
points here? I, for one, do not use the web because of the
cost of phone calls.
John Losch <jcl...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:VPmNa.36008$3o3.2...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
John Losch
No, to your question. The text on my WEB page is a magazine article I have
not yet published, and I think it would be rather too long for distribution
as an e-mail. I do not quite follow the rational of your argument regarding
the cost of phone calls. You are on the phone now, or have been, if you are
reading this. Jcl
"Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
news:3f071...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
Airy R Bean
nearly 10 years and have found no reason to change
my practice of NNTP, SMTP and, latterly, POP3.
I download all the NG in which I am interested, in a phone
call lasting no more than 3 minutes. I then browse all the articles
off line, somtimes a session lasting over an hour, and prepare my
responses, which are then posted back in a phone call lasting about 1
minute.
This is a News Group, a discussion group. It is the place for discussion and
not for boasting. It is not part of the World Wide Web.
Unfortunately for you, OM, if you are advertising it as available on the
Web, then you have published it, in law.
John Losch <jcl...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:_pGNa.37800$0v4.2...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
The Baron
have a base monthly rate? What part of the planet do you live on?
"Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
news:3f07e...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
John Losch
Sir:
Your comments are certainly airy enough for me. My replies below your
four paragraphs:
"Airy R Bean" <SPAM@trap> wrote in message
news:3f07e...@mk-nntp-1.news.uk.worldonline.com...
> The rational is this...I have been using the Internet for
> nearly 10 years and have found no reason to change
> my practice of NNTP, SMTP and, latterly, POP3.
REPLY:
That kind of self denial is almost as luddite as refining neat's-foot
oil to find a lubricant for clocks. Do you also confine yourself to a foot
lathe and a throw?
>
> I download all the NG in which I am interested, in a phone
> call lasting no more than 3 minutes. I then browse all the articles
> off line, somtimes a session lasting over an hour, and prepare my
> responses, which are then posted back in a phone call lasting about 1
> minute.
REPLY:
It is possible to download material from a WEB page as rapidly as from a
news group or POP 3. After it is downloaded the material can be read in as
leisurely a fashion as any other downloaded material. If you do not know
how to do this, I assume you have friends able to show you how. You deny
yourself a rich resource by ignoring such aspects of the internet.
>
> This is a News Group, a discussion group. It is the place for discussion
and
> not for boasting. It is not part of the World Wide Web.
REPLY:
I have sixty years of experience as a clock and watchmaker, as an
instrument maker, and as a machinist. I don't need to boast to you or
anyone else. I am now retired. I am in the process of writing my
experience because I think it may aid others to preserve a dying trade.
From time to time I make material available on a WEB page generally because
of requests for specific information. Some there is material previously
published in the print media, and is my response to requests for copies.
>
> Unfortunately for you, OM, if you are advertising it as available on the
> Web, then you have published it, in law.
REPLY: You are correct. I should have said that I have not yet published
it in the print media.
If, as it appears, you already know more than you have time to do, there
is little to be gained for you by visiting my WEB page. It is not my
intention to place a burden on your intellectual resources. I will exclude
you from the suggestion there is something in my material which could be
helpful to others having an interest in oils, and oilers. Jcl