How to price a wine rack (Kedco KM series 24"x 46 3/8" x 38 7/8")

[Chuck Banshee]

I am scoping out buying a custom made or existing wine rack similar to
the Kedco KM series 24"x 46 3/8" x 38 7/8" which is shown here:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/7387313/640/7387313.png

I've already called Kedco who will be giving me a spec - but where do you
guys go for second sourcing so you know if the price is right?

What should I expect to pay for two of these wine racks if I have them
custom built?

[Chuck Banshee]

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 18:08:40 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:

> What should I expect to pay for two of these wine racks if I have them
> custom built?

Here's a better picture closeup of the construction & materials:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/7387427/img/7387427.gif

And, this closer closeup shows how the wood cross member is shaped:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/7387434/img/7387434.gif

This shows what the entire rack would look like when done:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/7387437/img/7387437.gif

Any idea what this would cost to have built?

[SonomaProducts.com]

The plan is kind of vague. It looks more like a store bought than
custom (to me) Most cabinet shops would be able to build this type of
thing but not all would be interested in doing work like that. Find a
smaller shop and you should be able to get a second price. Of course
expect a custom version of a store bought type to be a 3x as much, et
least.

Maybe look at http://www.wineracksamerica.com/ or some of the other
8,390,000 (literally) results from a Google "wine racks" search.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Good detail. This is a really specific design. It includes metal work.
This type of thing is afforadble when mass produced but doing one-off
it will be hard to find someone with the right skills and to get at a
decent price.

I did my typical quick take off. I see about $250+ in materials 20+
hrs of wood and metal labor and I would round up to 30 to be sure. If
I get $50 hr shop time + 30% profit I am at $2,275

Detail:
Wood material = 18bf @ $6 per

Wood labor in hrs
Prep wood 2
Rip wood 1
chamfer wood 2
End kerfs 2
Sand 2
Finish 4

Metal material Guess $150

Metal labor
cut metal 2
cut lap kerfs in metal 2
Prep and paint 2

Project completion
Assemble 3

[Sonny]

I think this is a SketchUp of the Kedco KM. I didn't open the
download: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=317ff9dfcb9ab077329ac9b11a3ced9a

Sonny

[Chuck Banshee]

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 12:13:02 -0800, Sonny wrote:
> I think this is a SketchUp of the Kedco KM.

That looks pretty similar!

It's hard to tell for sure, since it's just a diagram.

Here's a side view:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390147/img/7390147.gif

And here's a front view:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390148/img/7390148.gif

The key is pricing out what it 'should' cost!

[Chuck Banshee]

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:49:23 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Good detail. This is a really specific design. It includes metal work.

Thank you for the quick response and analysis. Your breakdown is a very
good estimate. The finished cross members would be probably from a 5/4"
and net out 1 1/16" x 1 1/16".

I'm concerned with the "x" cuts on the end of the pieces.

Here's a closup of the X cuts:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390145/img/7390145.gif

Here's another view of the x-cuts from overhead:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390146/img/7390146.gif

They need to be cut exact so they flush out with the metal. How would you
make the cuts on the end of the pieces. Would you use a small table saw.
Is that the best way or is it too dangerous to cut it standing up?

Also, someone suggested either anodized or powder coated aluminum. They
feel that spray paint would eventually wear off.

Which way do you guys suggest?

Thanks for the help!

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Subject

Anything under $3K and you stole it.

Lew

[Chuck Banshee]

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 10:35:21 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Most cabinet shops would be able to build this type of thing but
> not all would be interested in doing work like that.

These photos are for a Kedco Brand called KM Series Wine Merchandiser.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390152/img/7390152.gif

Kedco should have a price quote for me by Monday. Do you have an idea of
who can second source this exact model?

BTW, what wood does this look like to you?
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390154/img/7390154.gif

I'm thinking it looks like Basswood stained to a Cherry color.

If I have it built myself, and since it's only about 18 BF, it might even
pay to go with a different wood that has a darker/richer look. The better
wood may offset the extra staining labor.

Any suggestions?

[Bruce]

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 12:49:23 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote
(in article
<3883b5b2-eb9b-4c1c...@w9g2000pbm.googlegroups.com>):

I agree with SP on his detailed breakdown. Nothing to the construction looks
difficult, just very repetitive cuts. Fixtures for the crosscuts and batch
slotting the metal would speed the process significantly although I think the
metal work would take longer in the Prep-n-Paint stage.

-Bruce

[Robatoy]

I agree. (Double that maybe?)

[Chuck Banshee]

On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 08:19:50 -0700, Bruce wrote:

> I think the
> metal work would take longer in the Prep-n-Paint stage.

I think the aluminum in the front is anodized (gold or black).

And, in the back, it's just metal wire cross members that are not visible
from the front so they are NOT anodized.

I've never anodized anything. Do you think paint would stay on over time?

[Bruce]

On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 16:24:52 -0700, Chuck Banshee wrote
(in article <jffhg4$7nd$1...@speranza.aioe.org>):

Depends 8^)

With good prep and paint it will last a long time. The key to painting
aluminum is to seal off the aluminum, kinda like a coat of shellac on problem
wood.

Best methods come from the aerospace industry, zinc chromate primer followed
by a urethane type paint (Imron is my favorite). Not something you usually
can do at home without a lot of preparation.

Anodizing can be pricey and you would get the best results if done after
making all the cuts, otherwise you could buy pre-anodized strips and figure a
way to blend in the areas where you disturb the surface.

If price is secondary, brass or copper would look nice and it would 'age'
with a nice patina. Steel, although cheap, would require something like a
chop saw to prep, but it also can be painted (think automotive paints) or
with some creativity can get a nice patina with gun bluing techniques or
heating with a propane torch to get some neat colors (then clear coating).

-Bruce

[SonomaProducts.com]

>
> I'm concerned with the "x" cuts on the end of the pieces.
>
> Here's a closup of the X cuts:
>  http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390145/img/7390145.gif
>
> Here's another view of the x-cuts from overhead:
>  http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/7390146/img/7390146.gif
>
> They need to be cut exact so they flush out with the metal. How would you
> make the cuts on the end of the pieces. Would you use a small table saw.
> Is that the best way or is it too dangerous to cut it standing up?

The X cuts would be easy with a tenoning jig or some similar dedicated
hand built jig.