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Garage Door Opener Question
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Robert11
Mar 28, 2012, 7:08:44 AM3/28/12
to
Hello,
What a great Newsgroup.
I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.
It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?
Or,... ?
BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?
I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
Thanks,
Bob
What a great Newsgroup.
I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
old or so.
No idea what brand.
It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
just fine ?
Or,... ?
BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
the typical 110 V house voltage ?
I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
Thanks,
Bob
Stormin Mormon
Mar 28, 2012, 7:53:38 AM3/28/12
to
My parents have a garage door opener. The wire from the indoor button is
easy enough to trace. In your case, it should be easy enough to unwire the
indoor button wire from the side of the door opener. And then, cross the two
screws with a short piece of wire. If the opener cycles, you know to look at
the indoor wire and switch.
Need to isolate, is it the opener, or the wire, or the switch. All this can
be done with a ladder, screw driver, short wire, and then a VOM to test
various things.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Robert11" <rgs...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jkurg1$4pj$1...@dont-email.me...
easy enough to trace. In your case, it should be easy enough to unwire the
indoor button wire from the side of the door opener. And then, cross the two
screws with a short piece of wire. If the opener cycles, you know to look at
the indoor wire and switch.
Need to isolate, is it the opener, or the wire, or the switch. All this can
be done with a ladder, screw driver, short wire, and then a VOM to test
various things.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Robert11" <rgs...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jkurg1$4pj$1...@dont-email.me...
HeyBub
Mar 28, 2012, 8:24:45 AM3/28/12
to
2. It is unlikely to be fused.
3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
4. While you're at it, add another switch (in parallel) so that you can
activate the door from either the people door or just inside the car access
door.
Art Todesco
Mar 28, 2012, 8:57:30 AM3/28/12
to
On 3/28/2012 8:24 AM, HeyBub wrote:
> Robert11 wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> What a great Newsgroup.
>>
>> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
>> old or so.
>> No idea what brand.
>>
>> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>>
>> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>>
>> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work
>> it just fine ?
>>
>> Or,... ?
>>
>> BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and
>> not the typical 110 V house voltage ?
>>
>> I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this
>> indoor pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
>>
>
> 1. The voltage is almost certainly 12V.
Probably not 12, but usually 24 VAC. There are usually 2 terminals
> Robert11 wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> What a great Newsgroup.
>>
>> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
>> old or so.
>> No idea what brand.
>>
>> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>>
>> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>>
>> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work
>> it just fine ?
>>
>> Or,... ?
>>
>> BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and
>> not the typical 110 V house voltage ?
>>
>> I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this
>> indoor pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
>>
>
> 1. The voltage is almost certainly 12V.
(usually
screw type) where low voltage buttons can be connected. If these terminals
are shorted together, it should activate the opener.
> 2. It is unlikely to be fused.
Yup. The transformer providing the low voltage might be fused. These are
buried in the transformer itself, however, if it works from the radio
remotes,
it's probably not that.
> 3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
> doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
I'd bet on a broken wire, but those doorbell buttons are sure made cheap.
> doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 28, 2012, 9:00:08 AM3/28/12
to
On Mar 28, 7:08 am, Robert11 <rgsr...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> What a great Newsgroup.
>
> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
> old or so.
> No idea what brand.
>
> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>
> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>
> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
> just fine ?
>
> Or,... ?
Either the pushbutton or a break in the wire. Remove the
> Hello,
>
> What a great Newsgroup.
>
> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
> old or so.
> No idea what brand.
>
> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>
> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>
> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
> just fine ?
>
> Or,... ?
switch and touch the bare wires together to find out if it's
the switch.
>
> BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
> the typical 110 V house voltage ?
Can't imagine they'd build one the other way.
>
> I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
> pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
John McGaw
Mar 28, 2012, 9:35:05 AM3/28/12
to
it might be either AC or DC. I have two Craftsman openers which are
actually made by Chaimberlain. The old one, in the shop side, is vintage
mid-70s and the control wiring is AC while the newer one, in the garage
side, is vintage late 90s and is DC. Both are approximately 24V. When I
replumbed and rewired everything in the area in preparation for finally
properly sheet-rocking the ceiling I discovered this and had to kludge the
wiring to my homebrew LED-lit pushbutton panel by adding diodes along with
the current-limiting resistors to allow either variety to work properly.
In answer to the OP, if you short across the switch control terminals at
the back of the opener and the door operates then either the external
wiring or switch is defective. If you short across the switch terminals at
the switch and the door operates then your switch is probably defective. I
say probably because it just might be that both wiring and switch are bad
although the probability is low.
DerbyDad03
Mar 28, 2012, 9:35:27 AM3/28/12
to
On Mar 28, 7:53 am, "Stormin Mormon"
the opener to see if the door operates.
Make sure you are not in the path of the door or any other moving
parts when you try this.
If closed, shorting it once will start to open it, quickly shorting it
again should stop it. If open, it should start to close, quickly
shorting it again should reverse it.
If this works, the "receiving" electronics for the push button are OK.
After that test, remove the push button from the wall and short the
wires at the push button.
If that works, then the wires to the opener and the "receiving"
electronics for the push button are OK, leaving the push button itself
as the likely problem.
Buy a regular doorbell button and replace the current one, assuming
that the button is only used to operate the door and not turn on
lights or anything like that.
<cayoung61***spambl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My parents have a garage door opener. The wire from the indoor button is
> easy enough to trace. In your case, it should be easy enough to unwire the
> indoor button wire from the side of the door opener. And then, cross the two
> screws with a short piece of wire. If the opener cycles, you know to look at
> the indoor wire and switch.
>
> Need to isolate, is it the opener, or the wire, or the switch. All this can
> be done with a ladder, screw driver, short wire, and then a VOM to test
> various things.
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> .
>
> "Robert11" <rgsr...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> My parents have a garage door opener. The wire from the indoor button is
> easy enough to trace. In your case, it should be easy enough to unwire the
> indoor button wire from the side of the door opener. And then, cross the two
> screws with a short piece of wire. If the opener cycles, you know to look at
> the indoor wire and switch.
>
> Need to isolate, is it the opener, or the wire, or the switch. All this can
> be done with a ladder, screw driver, short wire, and then a VOM to test
> various things.
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> .
>
>
> news:jkurg1$4pj$1...@dont-email.me...
> Hello,
>
> What a great Newsgroup.
>
> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
> old or so.
> No idea what brand.
>
> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>
> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>
> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
> just fine ?
>
> Or,... ?
>
> BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
> the typical 110 V house voltage ?
>
> I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
> pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
Probably no need to unwire anything. Simply short the 2 contacts on
> news:jkurg1$4pj$1...@dont-email.me...
> Hello,
>
> What a great Newsgroup.
>
> I have the typical electric garage door opener; probably about 10 yrs
> old or so.
> No idea what brand.
>
> It works perfectly using either of our remotes (from the cars)
>
> But, pressing on the indoor button to activate does nothing.
>
> Is the "most likely" cause a defective button since the remotes work it
> just fine ?
>
> Or,... ?
>
> BTW: is it most likely that this indoor button is low voltage, and not
> the typical 110 V house voltage ?
>
> I wouldn't think so, but might the electrical line going to this indoor
> pushbutton have its own fuse (by the motor somewhere ?) ?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
the opener to see if the door operates.
Make sure you are not in the path of the door or any other moving
parts when you try this.
If closed, shorting it once will start to open it, quickly shorting it
again should stop it. If open, it should start to close, quickly
shorting it again should reverse it.
If this works, the "receiving" electronics for the push button are OK.
After that test, remove the push button from the wall and short the
wires at the push button.
If that works, then the wires to the opener and the "receiving"
electronics for the push button are OK, leaving the push button itself
as the likely problem.
Buy a regular doorbell button and replace the current one, assuming
that the button is only used to operate the door and not turn on
lights or anything like that.
dpb
Mar 28, 2012, 10:03:15 AM3/28/12
to
On 3/28/2012 8:35 AM, John McGaw wrote:
...
> ... If you short across the switch terminals
to be ok from there to the opener so can only be internal if anywhere
there's a wiring fault...other than a loose connection that makes w/ the
external pressure, I suppose is a really remote possibility.
Other than that nit, good synopsis of how to isolate where the culprit
lies...
--
...
> ... If you short across the switch terminals
> at the switch and the door operates then your switch is probably
> defective. I say probably because it just might be that both wiring and
> switch are bad although the probability is low.
If on the switch terminals at the switch and it operates, the wiring has
> defective. I say probably because it just might be that both wiring and
> switch are bad although the probability is low.
to be ok from there to the opener so can only be internal if anywhere
there's a wiring fault...other than a loose connection that makes w/ the
external pressure, I suppose is a really remote possibility.
Other than that nit, good synopsis of how to isolate where the culprit
lies...
--
denni...@gmail.com
Mar 28, 2012, 10:13:14 AM3/28/12
to
Usually it is a simple low-voltage "doorbell" type button. Costs a couple of bucks. Takes about 5 minutes with a screwdriver to change. Instantly eliminates it as the cause of the problem.
DerbyDad03
Mar 28, 2012, 3:12:34 PM3/28/12
to
On Mar 28, 10:13 am, dennisga...@gmail.com wrote:
> Usually it is a simple low-voltage "doorbell" type button. Costs a couple of bucks. Takes about 5 minutes with a screwdriver to change. Instantly eliminates it as the cause of the problem.
No sense in even changing the switch to test it, just remove one wire
> Usually it is a simple low-voltage "doorbell" type button. Costs a couple of bucks. Takes about 5 minutes with a screwdriver to change. Instantly eliminates it as the cause of the problem.
and touch it to the other. If the GDO operates, the switch is bad. Now
change it.
If the GDO doesn't operate, short the terminals at the GDO. If the GDO
operates, the wire is bad. (maybe the switch too, but I doubt it)
If the GDO doesn't operate, that part of GDO is bad.
If that's the case, buy a generic remote, program it and stick it on
the wall.
The Daring Dufas
Mar 29, 2012, 2:05:33 AM3/29/12
to
insulation and shorted the line thus blowing a fuse for the low voltage
control. Then there are rodents that love to chew on soft plastic for
some odd reason. I have repaired many a low voltage cable that was the
object of affection of a teething mouse. ^_^
TDD
TDD
DerbyDad03
Mar 29, 2012, 9:17:48 AM3/29/12
to
On Mar 29, 2:05 am, The Daring Dufas <the-daring-du...@stinky.net>
wrote:
> TDD- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Would shorting the wire from the push button really blow a fuse?
Doesn't pushing the button short the wire?
I guess that you're implying that a *prolonged* short, such as
pressing the button for too long, would also blow the fuse.
If that were the case, I think that there would be a lot of blown
fuses in GDO's considering the millions upon millions of buttons being
pressed across the globe over time. *somebody* has to be holdng those
buttons down for too long.
I'm just speculating here, but it seems to me that the circuit would
be protected by something other than a fuse, like the use of momentary
contacts, so that a prolonged press of the button would not cause a
problem.
If everyone would please test that for me and report your findings,
I'd appreciate it. ;-)
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
Would shorting the wire from the push button really blow a fuse?
Doesn't pushing the button short the wire?
I guess that you're implying that a *prolonged* short, such as
pressing the button for too long, would also blow the fuse.
If that were the case, I think that there would be a lot of blown
fuses in GDO's considering the millions upon millions of buttons being
pressed across the globe over time. *somebody* has to be holdng those
buttons down for too long.
I'm just speculating here, but it seems to me that the circuit would
be protected by something other than a fuse, like the use of momentary
contacts, so that a prolonged press of the button would not cause a
problem.
If everyone would please test that for me and report your findings,
I'd appreciate it. ;-)
Bob_Villa
Mar 29, 2012, 10:21:21 AM3/29/12
to
Many folks will say "there's a short in it" when they actually mean "an open" (or lack of current flow.
denni...@gmail.com
Mar 29, 2012, 11:12:52 AM3/29/12
to
On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 3:12:34 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> No sense in even changing the switch to test it, just remove one wire
> and touch it to the other. If the GDO operates, the switch is bad. Now
> change it.
True, but I'm trying to stay within the OP's displayed level of understanding. He seems like the type that would ask, "But, uhhh, how can it work without the switch?" and get VERY confused.
> No sense in even changing the switch to test it, just remove one wire
> and touch it to the other. If the GDO operates, the switch is bad. Now
> change it.
DerbyDad03
Mar 29, 2012, 1:30:59 PM3/29/12
to
Isn't that why we're here?
Robert Green
Mar 29, 2012, 11:08:33 PM3/29/12
to
"HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in message
news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-
<stuff snipped>
> 3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
> doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
+1 Finger oil infiltrates PB switches over time, especially one with nearly
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.
--
Bobby G.
news:RvCdnZYiw9mMnu7SnZ2dnUVZ_g-
<stuff snipped>
> 3. The most common culprit is the push-button switch. Replace it with a
> doorbell switch, avaliable at the box store for a couple of bucks.
flush buttons where there's little distance between the button surface and
the surrounding opening. The OP might be able to clean it out but I would
suggest replacing it.
--
Bobby G.
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 30, 2012, 9:28:17 AM3/30/12
to
On Mar 29, 11:08 pm, "Robert Green" <robert_green1...@yah00.com>
wrote:
You must have some fingers that are just dripping grease.
I'm having a hard time seeing how finger oil could ever get
to the actual contacts inside the switch.
wrote:
I'm having a hard time seeing how finger oil could ever get
to the actual contacts inside the switch.
DerbyDad03
Mar 30, 2012, 11:37:26 AM3/30/12
to
I'd be more apt to blame a faulty GDO switch on corrosion (read: rust)
- I've seen it many times.
Seems like finger oil would lubricate the switch (yuck!) and make it
work better as opposed to destroying it.
Robert11
Mar 30, 2012, 6:53:18 PM3/30/12
to
Hello,
Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?
Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
What type of fush style ? Amps ?
Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.
Thanks,
Bob
Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?
Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
What type of fush style ? Amps ?
Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.
Thanks,
Bob
tra...@optonline.net
Mar 30, 2012, 8:10:43 PM3/30/12
to
On Mar 30, 6:53 pm, Robert11 <rgsr...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?
I've never seen one that had a fuse on the low voltage
> Hello,
>
> Do they "usually" have a fuse on the low voltage ?
for the push button, electric eye, etc.
>
> Realize they are all probably different, but generally:
> What type of fush style ? Amps ?
>
> Haven't been able (with my back) to get up there.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
procedure, starting with disconnecting the button
and touching the wires together.
DerbyDad03
Mar 31, 2012, 12:44:43 PM3/31/12
to
As I said in a earlier post that appears not to have made it through due
to Google issues...
Start by testing the switch: Remove one wire from the back of the switch
and touch it to the other. If the GDO operates, the switch is bad.
Change it.
If the GDO doesn't operate when you short the wires at the switch, short
the terminals that those wires go to at the GDO. Get a short piece of
wire and touch it to both screws at the same time. If the GDO operates,
the wire from the switch is bad. (maybe the switch too, but I doubt it)
If the GDO doesn't operate, that part of GDO is bad.
buy a generic remote, program it and stick it on the wall.
No need to go digging for an internal fuse that, if it even exists, is
probably soldered onto the board.
Start simple: Odds are it's the switch.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 2, 2012, 5:22:58 PM4/2/12
to
>
>Doesn't pushing the button short the wire?
Yes
>Doesn't pushing the button short the wire?
>
>I guess that you're implying that a *prolonged* short, such as
>pressing the button for too long, would also blow the fuse.
Except it has no fuse.
>I guess that you're implying that a *prolonged* short, such as
>pressing the button for too long, would also blow the fuse.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 2, 2012, 5:24:46 PM4/2/12
to
cases it will cause the exact problem you are trying to solve - or
possibly even render the remotes useless as well.
The Daring Dufas
Apr 2, 2012, 10:06:03 PM4/2/12
to
somewhat accurate description of an open circuit. There is a "shortage"
of electrons. ^_^
TDD
andyjwa...@gmail.com
Oct 24, 2013, 1:19:37 PM10/24/13
to
I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
Tony Hwang
Oct 24, 2013, 2:05:55 PM10/24/13
to
andyjwa...@gmail.com wrote:
> I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
>
Hi,
> I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
>
That means button is working. Some thing wrong with the GDO?
Push button is momentary closing contacts. Maybe yoru meter
is not fast enough to see the voltage at the exact moment
the button contacts close.
micky
Oct 24, 2013, 2:21:04 PM10/24/13
to
On Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:19:37 -0700 (PDT), andyjwa...@gmail.com
wrote:
>I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
Good to know. Does the door open and the next time close when you
push the button?
wrote:
>I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
push the button?
jamesgang
Oct 24, 2013, 4:27:21 PM10/24/13
to
On Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:19:37 PM UTC-4, andyjwa...@gmail.com wrote:
> I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
Some of the newer ones the button actually signals the unit. My new craftsman (really chamberlain) has that. All the older ones are just a regular push button. If you hold down a regular push button the voltage should drop to 0 because you are shorting out the two terminals. The wiring resistance is negilible so you should see the short at the terminals.
> I just measured the voltage between the terminals on the back of the Sears Craftsman's GDO and it's 9.5 volts. When I push the remote button it drops to 8.5 volts.
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