wanting to build a shed (12x24) with dirt floor

[todd...@gmail.com]

i want to build a wood shed for very little money, i have salvaged wood
from a garage that was needing torn down. Most of the wood is
salvageable, but not all. I am planning to make this shed on a dirt
floor.

However, the area i am going to put it on, is not flat.

i don't think the flatness would matter so much if i was going to put a
floor in it, because i could raise the floor above the ground on one
end.

How should i go about doing this? It will be constructed like a pole
building.

[Toller]

My barn floor is dirt, and it is both sloped and uneven. Doesn't seem to be
a problem at all.
What issues do you see?

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157945272.3...@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

[todd...@gmail.com]

i want the building to be on the ground, but it can't be both plumb and
level, if it's touching on uneven ground.

i'm not concerned if there are humps on the floor inside the buidling
after its' up, so long as it's structurally sound.

does that make any sense?

[Toller]

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157947160....@q16g2000cwq.googlegroups.com...

>i want the building to be on the ground, but it can't be both plumb and
> level, if it's touching on uneven ground.
>

You just set the posts and build down until you get to the ground.
At least that is how my barn is built.
As long as the posts are all plumb, the ground doesn't matter much.

[Joseph Meehan]

You should check locally to see if there are any codes that you need to
meet. You also should consider the possible issue of moisture damage and
depending on your design, remember that building without a foundation,
especially in areas that freeze, is not a good idea.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

[hal...@aol.com]

> You should check locally to see if there are any codes that you need to
> meet. You also should consider the possible issue of moisture damage and
> depending on your design, remember that building without a foundation,
> especially in areas that freeze, is not a good idea.
>
> --
> Joseph Meehan
>
> Dia duit

I second and third that espically for such a large building!!!

Moisture is a problem with my shed and it has a concrete floor. I cant
imagine the rust with a dirt floor:(

[Bill]

The shed will not last long if there is wood contacting the ground
(termites).

Then also if it is not well built, the first good wind to come along will
blow it down.

Building it so it will last a long time and withstand heavy winds seems
contrary to building it on the cheap if you ask me.

Anyway I suppose you can sink poles in the ground which all raise up to the
same height, then build your roof. And basically nail boards around the
sides (all level) going from the top down. Just nail more boards on the
side(s) where the ground is lower. Cut the last bottom boards so they have
an angle to match the ground. Make door with a bottom angle to match ground
level.

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote in message

[todd...@gmail.com]

i hadn't thought of that. thanks for the idea.

[todd...@gmail.com]

i'm planning on setting the posts below the frost line with concrete.
is that enough of a foundation, or are you talking about a footer.

[todd...@gmail.com]

the floor will come later. i don't have the money for a concrete or
wood floor right now.

[todd...@gmail.com]

i was thinking of 4 posts (one in each corner), is that too little to
be sturdy for this little outbuilding? i was thinking of pressure
treated 4x4's. if i do the 4 post thing, should i be considering
larger sized posts?

[Cindy G]

Best way to build it is to make a pole foundation.

12 x 24 I assume you want to have an opening so I would
set 4x4x6 post into the ground 36ins then be sure to put some
form of concrete block under them. space your side post 6ft apart
your gable end post 3ft. then get 2x6xthe longest length you can
which is 14ft at most lumber stores pressure treated bandboard.
get enough to make your skirt around the base. then cut off the
excess post to be level with them. Then cap it with a 2x8 pressure
treated board and you have a pole foundation. You can then
build stud walls etc. with a shovel and a bit of work you can probably
get the area around post level. Consider renting an auger
at your local tool rental it'll make it short work. You need stainless
6in carriage bolts to attach the bandboard to the post and you can
nail the sill plate aka 2x8 on top with 16's. Down the road with
this foundation you can also have concrete poured. For now you
should probably go with 1 1/2 limestone to cover the ground.

For your walls and strength I would build a 2x4 16 on center then
run purlins across the walls to accept your boards or t11 or metal.
Truss roofs are nicer and hold up to heavy loads just remember to run
a storm brace.

Hope this helps,

Cindy

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1157945272.3...@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

[todd...@gmail.com]

i don't understand the part about cutting off the excess posts to be
level with "them" after the skirt part. also, if the posts are capped
with a 2x8, there would be 4 inches extra. unless the are on the side
like the skirt, i'm assuming.

[todd...@gmail.com]

also:

are there good online resource with illustrations for constructing a
pole building like this?

[Goedjn]

Do you own a shovel? Dig from the high side and throw the dirt
toward the low side. build a knee/retaining wall out of
rocks and mortar.

[Goedjn]

On 11 Sep 2006 05:10:35 -0700, "hal...@aol.com" <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:

If you dig out 3" of dirt, put in plastic, and rake the dirt back in,
ground-water is less of a problem.

[Bill]

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote in message

>i was thinking of 4 posts (one in each corner), is that too little to
> be sturdy for this little outbuilding? i was thinking of pressure
> treated 4x4's. if i do the 4 post thing, should i be considering
> larger sized posts?
>

Here a link to a google.com search for "pole barn" "wind load". You can get
a general idea from reading a lot of these links. If the link below does not
work, go to google.com and paste the following in the search box (including
quotes)...
"pole barn" "wind load"

http://www.google.com/search?num=20&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&q=%22pole+barn%22+%22wind+load%22&btnG=Search

[Goedjn]

On 11 Sep 2006 07:48:59 -0700, todd...@gmail.com wrote:

>i was thinking of 4 posts (one in each corner), is that too little to
>be sturdy for this little outbuilding? i was thinking of pressure
>treated 4x4's. if i do the 4 post thing, should i be considering
>larger sized posts?

How are you planning on spanning the 24 feet between posts,
to resist wind-loads?

[Joseph Meehan]

todd...@gmail.com wrote:
> i'm planning on setting the posts below the frost line with concrete.
> is that enough of a foundation, or are you talking about a footer.
>

Well I don't think I would go to that much trouble without doing it
right myself. As for it being enough, that would depend on the soil, the
local weather, the depth of the concrete the total load on the posts the
size of the post. etc etc etc.

[todd...@gmail.com]

i wasn't really thinking of the wind load. something that long would
probably act like a sail...

[Willshak]

A building that size probably requires a permit and inspection. Check
with the building department to see how you must build it. Setbacks,
footings, construction, etc.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To Email, remove the double zeroes after 'at'

[empre...@wowway.com]

building a structure like this, the only problem I forsee is making
sure it is squate, it can be a real bitch if when you an't on flat
ground.

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[lwas...@fellspt.charm.net]

In article <1157986139.8...@d34g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>,

<todd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>i was thinking of 4 posts (one in each corner), is that too little to
>be sturdy for this little outbuilding? i was thinking of pressure
>treated 4x4's. if i do the 4 post thing, should i be considering
>larger sized posts?

<...snipped...>

I am not an engineer or architect but you will definitely need more
than 4 4X4 posts for a 12X24' building. Just think about it; how are
you ever going to build a wall of conventional sized lumber that is
24' long, supported only at the ends, without it sagging? And 24' long
lumber is not exactly common, either. (I almost said it doesn't
grow on trees :) )

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
lwas...@charm.net

[marad...@unlisted.com]

I forgot to mention. A laser level will greatly help set the thing
level.

[marad...@unlisted.com]

Mine is the same. If it's a pole building it dont matter. Just set
the building level and apply your siding near the ground. I'd apply
center match treated boards at the ground level or else you will end
up with rotted wood on the bottom. Of course, use treated posts too.
You oculd always fill in the low end, or level the whole area too.

[marad...@unlisted.com]

Why not?????????
Make the building level, fill in the bottom with treated boards.....
Make the siding even all the way around, those treated boards will
fill in the gaps, dig them in a little if you want, or else you'll
have to rip cut them to fit the soil.

[Cindy G]

Best way to build it is to make a pole foundation.

12 x 24 I assume you want to have an opening so I would
set 4x4x6 post into the ground 36ins then be sure to put some
form of concrete block under them. space your side post 6ft apart
your gable end post 3ft. then get 2x6xthe longest length you can
which is 14ft at most lumber stores pressure treated bandboard.
get enough to make your skirt around the base. then cut off the
excess post to be level with them. Then cap it with a 2x8 pressure
treated board and you have a pole foundation. You can then
build stud walls etc. with a shovel and a bit of work you can probably
get the area around post level. Consider renting an auger
at your local tool rental it'll make it short work. You need stainless
6in carriage bolts to attach the bandboard to the post and you can
nail the sill plate aka 2x8 on top with 16's. Down the road with
this foundation you can also have concrete poured. For now you
should probably go with 1 1/2 limestone to cover the ground.

For your walls and strength I would build a 2x4 16 on center then
run purlins across the walls to accept your boards or t11 or metal.
Truss roofs are nicer and hold up to heavy loads just remember to run
a storm brace.

Hope this helps,

Cindy