cutting 6 x 6 beams with miter saw ???
James
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?
Thanks !!
James
jamesgangnc
It's going to depend on the saw. I would doubt it for most of them.
It's not that difficult to get a decent cut in two passes if the saw
is set up square. I can get pretty durn close with a hand circular
saw if I take my time. Besides you're working with a 6x6 which is by
no means going to be perfect in any other direction.
Smitty Two
"James" <jnipp...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that mean it's a
circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it isn't going
to cut something half the diameter of the blade.
RicodJour
No. First off, a miter saw does not reciprocate, it rotates, and no
saw provides a perfectly smooth cut unless you have a rather loose
definition of perfectly.
Make a miter box out of some scrap plywood and use a plain old vanilla
hand saw, and clean it up with a sharp hand plane. It won't kill you,
you won't mess up the beam, and it's good exercise.
R
jamesgangnc
> In article <LbydnYlYDe2Rl1nQnZ2dnUVZ_uWdn...@posted.localnet>,
>
> "James" <jnipper...@nospamfdn.com> wrote:
> > Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
> > pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
> > who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
> > smooth cut ?
>
> > Thanks !!
>
> > James
>
> I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that mean it's a
> circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it isn't going
> to cut something half the diameter of the blade.
That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.
Steve Barker
I can't imagine how ANY 12" blade would cut a 5 1/2 or 6" cut. If you
have a washer holding the blade on, the very MOST you could ever get is
5 1/2" and that is if you could cut all the way to the washer and that's
not likely.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
DerbyDad03
Do you mean a non-sliding miter saw?
I've never heard of a reciprocating miter saw, so I'm pretty confident
in stating that *all* miter saws are non-reciprocating.
In fact, a reciprocating miter saw sounds really scary!
Besides, you'd be amazed at what a belt sander can do to clean up any
ridges left from a cut made from multiple sides.
James
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap caught that....
What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to 14, or larger ?
BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.
Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. Will build
"squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.
James
jamesgangnc
If you building stairs out of them then the cut quality is not that
important. Use a chain saw.
DD_BobK
Do a Google search on 12" miter saws. There has a to be a tool review
or tool comparison for 12" miter saw.
My experience with a limited number of 12 inchers says that you'll
need to jump to a 14" miter saw to make that cut in a single pass.
Otherwise use a beam saw or a hand saw in a miter box.
cheers
Non
Red Green
news:c891f9b6-a1fb-40cd...@e8g2000vbz.googlegroups.com:
Bingo!
Even a cheap electric one.
DerbyDad03
Are you sure 10 inch nails are long enough?
You might want to consider re-bar. Probably cheaper and can be cut to
lengths that can go through multiple beams and into the ground.
JIMMIE
Did that not too long ago for clothes line and mailbox post.. I just
used my circular saw and a speed square as a saw guide. This didnt cut
all the way through but finishing with a hand saw was a piece of cake.
Probably could have done the same with my chop saw. BTW my nephew was
with me and I was trying to show him how to use the speed square as a
guide...he has some coordination problems and was having trouble
holding both the saw and the square so I had him clamp the square in
place.
Jimmie
Stormin Mormon
we strongly doubt it.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote in message
news:rtidnax_97jtglnQ...@giganews.com...
Stormin Mormon
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch-four-speed-woodworking-bandsaw-67595.html
Please also consider "nail gun", not sure pneumatic is what
you want. Power nailer, maybe? One that shoots .22 rimfire
blanks loads. Cuts down on the sore elbows from endless
pounding.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"James" <jnipp...@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:MJudnY20TK5v0VnQ...@posted.localnet...
Stormin Mormon
Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"jamesgangnc" <james...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c73f59f-c737-4b23...@c26g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"DD_BobK" <rkaz...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:585b4779-b144-4eed...@z7g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
RicodJour
<cayoung61**spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?
>
> Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
> those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
> die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
> addiction.
>
> --
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> .
>
>
> news:8c73f59f-c737-4b23...@c26g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that
> > mean it's a
> > circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it
> > isn't going
> > to cut something half the diameter of the blade.
>
> That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.
If it was a choice between top posting and you smoking, I think you'd
get a lot of votes for you smoking.
R
James
please ? I would like to know the point you are making...
thanks again to all replies !!
James
----------------------------
Not a task where cuts and bore holes have to be "perfect".
James
James
willshak
> And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?
>
> Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
> those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
> die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
> addiction.
>
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Harry K
Inasmuch as the audience is getting pretty fed up with his anti usenet
custom...
Harry K
Harry K
If that is the use, you are way overengineering it. That is not a
"finish" type cut - use a chainsaw.
Harry K
Harry K
I forgot the second part - drilling the hole.
Again, drill press accuracy is not required. A 3/8 or 1/2' drill and
"speed bore" spade dills are the route to go. I've BTDT.
Harry K
James
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.
And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.
James
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"willshak" <will...@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:kdmdnch21bddKlnQ...@supernews.com...
DanG
stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill
market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship
auger or speed bores with extension.
You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts
if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
"James" <jnipp...@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:uOGdnVa9F6y_sVjQ...@posted.localnet...
Smitty Two
wrote:
> James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
> stroke.
Good point, although theoretically he could drill them all halfway, then
move the table. I still don't quite understand what he's doing.
Joe
What you need is a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a ship auger of the
appropriate size. Unfortunately, Milwaukee self feed bits don't come
is the smaller sizes you need.
Look over the bits and such in the section of plumbers and
electricians specialties at your box store.
Joe
aemeijers
> James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
> stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill
> market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship
> auger or speed bores with extension.
>
> You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts
> if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.
>
Agreed. He is making this WAY more complicated than it needs to be. Even
if he had a giant chop saw and wide-mouth drill press, I suspect that
after hoisting and supporting the first half-dozen timbers to cut and
drill them, he would be looking for another solution. An electrician's
drill with and auger or long spade bit, and a small chainsaw, is what we
used back in the stone age. A speed square and an old screwdriver, to
scribe the cut lines, helps. Fit one end, mark the other end, shove a
brick under it to keep the blade out of the dirt, and cut. Once timber
is in place, drill the slightly undersize hole through the first timber
into the second, and pound in the rebar peg with a BFH.
Only time we did fancy smooth cuts and used threaded rod or bolts, was
for the pretty stuff up on the deck, which wasn't made from landscape
timbers.
Yes, a Sawzall or clone would work and produce a prettier cut, but it
would be a lot slower than a chainsaw. (The framing crews decking out
the roofs on the apartments I worked on as a kid, used a chainsaw to cut
off the wild ends on the decking. 3 stories up, strolling along with no
safety harness. Those guys were all young and immortal, but I never saw
one fall.)
--
aem sends...
RicodJour
>
> Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
> with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
> don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.
I think you're assuming a couple of things about chainsaws and their
use that are affecting your opinion. I have seen tile jobs that
sucked - doesn't mean that I think all tile jobs suck. Most people
are not looking for joinery-quality cuts when they whip out a
chainsaw. They're looking for down and dirty, and probably have a
worn chain, so it's no surprise that what you saw was down and dirty -
yours doesn't have to be. Invest the money in the correct tool.
http://www.timbertools.com/Products/LignaTool-chain-saw-guide.html
or, if you want slower so you can enjoy the experience on the hillside
for longer
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5402NA-16-5-16-Inch-Circular/dp/B0000614UR
BTW, you are simply kidding yourself about the cut ends of the ties.
Unless you're popping for the $ for cedar, you're going to be getting
PT 6x6s and they'll have splits, checks, and big knots. Even if your
cuts were perfect the whole job would still look like it was made from
lumber with splits, checks, and big knots. You're mentally gilding
the lily before you start which is a perfect recipe for a big
letdown. I advise you to adjust your thinking.
> And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
> it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
> to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
> ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.
Again - you're simply kidding yourself. Lugging a drill press up and
down and on top of whatever needs to be drilled is pointless in your
application. The ties are drilled in place and you don't need a
perfectly perpendicular hole, you need a straight hole that's
relatively perpendicular. Any heavy duty D-handled 1/2" drill will do
the job. Use an extension for the drill bit so you don't have to bend
over to drill the holes. The weight of the drill will feed the bit -
you just have to keep it from rotating.
I still think you should do it with hand tools. They build moral
fiber. :)
R
Steve Barker
and a gas powered drill.
RicodJour
Probably simpler to just use a generator. I've never seen a gas
powered drill, but I imagine they'd be fun to use.
R
willshak
Why not? George Goble had a gas guitar. :-)
(George Gobel was a stand up comedian who had as a prop, a Gibson L5CT
acoustic guitar. When someone asked him why he didn't use an electric
guitar, he said it was a gas guitar).
Steve Barker
we had one at the lawn and landscape joint i spent 13 years at. We put
a swing set anchor in it, and the girls drilled holes for flower bulbs
with it. Not sure what brand it was. It was red.
Steve Barker
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/augerdrill.html
http://tinyurl.com/3dddglb (tanaka)
PV
> Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in
> one pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear
> from someone who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as
> to get a perfectly smooth cut ?
>
> Thanks !!
>
Late to the party, but just saw this today. What you need is a Beam Saw
http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/mafell/MAF-ZSXEc400HM.html
An interesting collection of power tools for working big lumber, but not
cheap
--
PV
If you can't fix it with a hammer.......you have an electrical problem
JIMMIE
> Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
> non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap caught that....
>
> What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to 14, or larger ?
>
> BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work if we
> had a saw that can cut in one pass.
>
> Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. Will build
> "squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail
> beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. For the
> project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
> drill press to drill pilot holes first.
>
> James
Northern Tool used to have a big chop saw meant to cut metal. You cut
probably put a big blade on one of these to cut wood. That would
probably be without a guard So make sure children and pets are far
away when using. As I remember the saw was less than $100 US last I
saw of one.
Jimmie
James
Thanks !!
James
DerbyDad03
Those won't work for the OP. He has stated in no uncertain terms that
he won't use a chainsaw.
Since those beam cutters are nothing more (said with jest) than
electric chain saws, he won't be using one of those.
He's made up his mind. Don't go confusing him with facts.
DerbyDad03
As far as I know, the largest chop saw Northern Tool sells is 14".
As far as I know, the max cut size with a 14" chop saw is 5" for
square stock.
PV
Good point, but the portable bandsaw looked pretty sweet....once you get
passed the price tag
jamesgangnc
You draw lines on it and give me a good chain and I'll make a straight
cut. You can make pretty decent cuts with a chain saw if you have a
line to follow, the wood on saw horses, and take your time.
HerHusband
> will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work
> if we had a saw that can cut in one pass.
I would just use a normal circular saw, making a cut on one face then
flipping the beam over and completing the cut. This will produce a
cleaner and more accurate cut than a chain saw, and will be a LOT less
work than trying to lift a beam into position to cut with a power miter
saw (if you could even find one that can cut that big of a beam).
If you're really concerned about the appearance, you could clean up the
end after the cut using a hand plane, sharp chisel, or a belt sander.
> stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail beam squares together
> with 10 inch galvanized spiral nails.
If it were me, I would use long screws instead of nails. Most home
centers stock landscaping screws like this in their hardware area. A
driver drill would have no problem driving these.
> For the project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about
> buying a basic drill press to drill pilot holes first.
I think most of the landscaping screws are self tapping, so you wouldn't
need to drill pilot holes. But for the rebar (and pilot holes if you
choose), just use a good drill with a long drill bit (self feeding bits
help if you can find them in the size you need). You don't need the
accuracy of a drill press for this application and it would be a lot more
work trying to position a large beam in a drill press anyway.
I have a DW246 drill for these kinds of tasks. It is small and compact
but very powerful. With a 2" self feed auger bit you really have to
brace yourself or it will rip your arm off if it hits a knot or
something. :)
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW246-2-Inch-Drill-Keyless/dp/B00002233G
> Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains.
If that's the case, you certainly don't want to haul a power miter saw
and drill press to the area and try to set up work stations for each
machine out in the dirt and rain. These are shop tools, not remote
mountain tools.
Of course, you will need to figure out some way to get power to the site,
even with the portable circular saw and hand drill. If you are close
enough, you could use heavy gauge extension cords (10 gauge) to go a
couple hundred feet or so. If you're farther than that, you should
probably buy or rent a generator.
Alternatively, you could use a cordless drill and saw if you have lots of
extra batteries.
If you don't have access to power and don't have cordless power tools,
you can always do it the way our ancestors did. A handsaw and manual
auger drill bit. It's slow and laborious, but it works.
> Will build "squares" out of beams
One final thought... Have you considered prebuilding your "squares" in
your shop, then hauling the finished sections to the site? You could get
really fancy with the joinery if you wish, half laps at the corners or
mortise and tenon if you feel it's necessary. Build everything in your
shop to get the accuracy you're wanting, then you would only need a
hammer, shovel, and cordless drill on the site to fasten them in place.
Good luck!
Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountain-software.com
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
> pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
> who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
> smooth cut ?
No. The saw's motor is approximately 6" in diameter, and limits the
depth of cut to about 4.5" on a typical 12" circular miter saw.
RonB
> Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
> pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
> who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
> smooth cut ?
>
>
> James
I have an older Delta 12" Miter saw. I just walked out and looked at
it, with tape measure in hand. My answer is no, not in one pass.
There is enough clearance between the bed and blade for a 5-1/2' to 6"
piece of stock to clear. BUT, from the outer radius of the blade, to
the motor/blade housing only measures about 4-7/8" so you are going to
come up about 5/8" short on depth.
How perfect of a cut do you need? I often cut 2x10's on my saw, which
is beyond the cutting range but a little care lets me switch sides and
line the blade up visually. You should be able to do the same thing
and finish the cut from the opposite side after resetting the blade to
the other side.
RonB
RonB
James
planning on making the squares off-site.
Others have made good points, and I will take all of them into account. Some
of you have already made me re-visit some of my original thinking. So, I do
take note of what you all say......
Thanks to all !!
James
BTW, am in mountains of NC
jamesgangnc
It sounds like a pretty big project. You might consider that pt 6x6's
don't last all that long in the ground. I just replaced as 17 year
old retaining wall made of them and many were rotted to the point of
falling apart. One of the problems is penetration of the
preservative. A lot of the rot started on cut ends.
PeterD
Unless you have a saw that has a belt driven motor that is high
mounted, or a angled motor (such as the Makita slide-miter saws). Only
the cheapest of the cheap use a straight attached motor.
--
I'm never going to grow up.
JIMMIE
> Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
> pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
> who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
> smooth cut ?
>
>
> James
If I had a large number of them to do I would lay out all the cut
lines on them a lay them side by side then cut as many as I could in
one pass with a circular saw then flip and cut the other side. Will
probably take a 12 in saw to do it in two passes without having to
finish with a hand saw .....dont think they are terribly expensive to
rent.
Jimmie
RicodJour
>
> If I had a large number of them to do I would lay out all the cut
> lines on them a lay them side by side then cut as many as I could in
> one pass with a circular saw then flip and cut the other side.
The idea is to not hump more than you have to - that way you'll last
longer. The saw is far lighter and easier to move than a 6x6. The
routine is to mark the length on the 6x6 then cut with the saw in your
right hand and a speed square as a fence in your left...if you're
using a circular saw. If you're using a chainsaw, you really can't/
shouldn't line them up side by side anyway.
> Will probably take a 12 in saw to do it in two passes without having to
> finish with a hand saw .....dont think they are terribly expensive to rent.
The OP seems to be either afraid of chainsaws or doesn't believe the
people that are telling him that a sharp chain on a chainsaw will
provide a perfectly suitable cut on the only one (maybe two) face(s)
that will matter. If he does go with a circular saw he definitely
would want a worm drive saw, and he should buy the saw and sell it
when he's done. There are 6x6s and 6x6s. If he's going with a
dressed 6x6 (5.5" actual), than an 8" saw is all the OP would need.
http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Category/Product/default.html?pid=HD5860
R
James
steps in the ground now for ten years, and they appear to have no wear or
deterioration whatsoever. I am 66 years old, and if they last 20 years
for me.............. you know the rest...
BTW, since you mention it, what type of preservative would I ask for at the
big box stores, for me to paint/coat the end cuts ??
Thanks !
James
DanG
http://www.pacificwood.com/penta
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
"James" <jnipp...@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:poydnWAguYncNlTQ...@posted.localnet...
James
James
James
miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. Several responders said that
would make a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.
NEW QUESTION !! :
While I used 12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using Spax Lag Screws, of
the proper material for use with PT lumber. I suppose that I would use 10
inch screws, either with a torx or hex head. I am old fashioned (and
old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
as a 3/8 inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. My carpenter assures me that
it can. It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
pre-drilling !! I just can't envision how this 10 inch screw could be
drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...
Any thoughts/ ideas, or (most importantly) experience using these Spax
products ???
Thanks for any tips on this !!
James
willshak
> I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
> miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. Several responders said that
> would make a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.
>
may find that the last drawn line doesn't meet up exactly with the first
line you drew.
Unless you intend to have this beam stand vertically on end on a
perfectly level surface, that doesn't really matter much.
You're building primitive steps on a slope in a mountainous area, you
are not building furniture!
Who the f**k is going to look at the ends?
Anyone that does mention the unevenness of the ends should be eliminated
from future guest lists.
Just sayin'.
>
>
> NEW QUESTION !! :
>
>
> While I used 12 inch spiral nails on a similar project about ten years ago,
> my carpenter-helper has suggested that I consider using Spax Lag Screws, of
> the proper material for use with PT lumber. I suppose that I would use 10
> inch screws, either with a torx or hex head. I am old fashioned (and
> old), and I just can't quite see how a screw could provide as much stability
> as a 3/8 inch spike nail, or a spiral nail. My carpenter assures me that
> it can. It would also seem to me to very hard to install these, but the
> Spax website claims one version of the lag screw doesn't even require
> pre-drilling !! I just can't envision how this 10 inch screw could be
> drilled in straight, and not go off on a bad angle or something...
>
> Any thoughts/ ideas, or (most importantly) experience using these Spax
> products ???
>
> Thanks for any tips on this !!
>
> James
>
>
>
RicodJour
> James wrote the following:> I have taken all comments to heart, and plan to cut the beams with a 12 inch
> > miter saw, and cut in more than one pass. Several responders said that
> > would make a smooth cut if care is taken in the process.
>
> Take a square and make a cut line around all 4 sides of the beam. You
> may find that the last drawn line doesn't meet up exactly with the first
> line you drew.
> Unless you intend to have this beam stand vertically on end on a
> perfectly level surface, that doesn't really matter much.
> You're building primitive steps on a slope in a mountainous area, you
> are not building furniture!
> Who the f**k is going to look at the ends?
> Anyone that does mention the unevenness of the ends should be eliminated
> from future guest lists.
> Just sayin'.
The OP should reread this thread and ask himself why he ignored the
advice about the screws (and info on driving them) until his
'carpenter-helper' suggested them.
Later, after his 'carpenter-helper' points out that cutting landscape
tie joinery is dumb, maybe he'll check back here and ask about that.
I'm guessing that after he's humped a few of those ties up onto the
miter saw, and then tried to rotate them and move them accurately,
he'll see the light. Maybe.
These sort of scenarios are always entertaining. Someone posts a
"question" and then ignores all of the advice. They're not really
asking for advice, they're asking for validation. Unfortunately I'm
really bad at validating dumb ideas. Maybe Stuart Smalley could help.
R
R
jamesgangnc
It will go straight. Use a couple where you would have used a single
large spike.
jamesgangnc
> On Tue, 24 May 2011 04:40:21 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
> pay about $3 or more per screw. Dont even think about using a battery
> powered drill. - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
It's not really hard to drive them as they are pretty thin. For the
volume it sounds like he has, a corded drill would be better. They
are expensive. They are a labor saving solution. Fits the commercial
side a bit better where labor is your biggest cost. They are fast.
Pop a couple in in less than 30 seconds. No predrilling. For harry
homeowner labor is free so that might factor differently in the
decision.
Labor saving doesn't seem to be an issue for him though as he plans to
use a miter saw to cut the 6x6s. MYself I'd mark and cut a bunch with
a chain saw as they were coming off the truck and going down the
hill. Then zip them together with screws and move on.
Harry K
>
> - Show quoted text -
When reading his posts the phrase "polishing a turd" comes to mind.
Harry K
jamesgangnc
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yea
Dan
If you must have a 1-pass cut on a 6x6 or larger post or beam, then I
would suggest you invest in a bandsaw. These will cut much deeper than
6x6, produce a very fine cut or notch w/no overcut & can also be used for
re-sawing old lumber & many other projects. Alternatively, you can
purchase a Prazi Beam Cutter attachment for a circular or wormdrive saw (I
would recommend the wormdrive for more power on large beams). The Prazi
will cut up to 12" in 1 pass. There is also a 16" circular saw from Makita
that is used in the Timber Framing Industry.
--
Evan
You’d be amazed what an impact driver will do with a nice spade bit
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/cutting-6-x-6-beams-with-miter-saw-633179-.htm
Evan
The bosh spade bits with the screw tip, in an impact driver is the fastest way
to bore those holes
DataSam
Why not just try to answer his questions and skip the lectures and suggestions