40:1 or 50:1 two-stroke tools (what to do if you have both)?
SF Man
fuel for all of them.
What do you do given some two-stroke tools are 40:1 while others are 50:1?
a) Do you maintain two separate gas cans?
b) Do you make it 45:1 for all of them?
c) Do you use 40:1 or 50:1 for all of them?
Note: Tools are chainsaw, hedge trimmer, weed whacker, air blower, etc.
How critical is the exact oil:gasoline ratio anyway?
Steve Barker
if you use a good quality oil like the stihl oil, you can run everything
at 50:1. We even run the old lawnboys which were supposedly designed
for 16:1 on 50:1 with out problems.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
zxcvbob
I would probably use 50:1 in all of them, and make sure it was really
really good oil. Echo or Stihl brand chainsaw oil, or maybe Quicksilver
synthetic PWC oil.
For 2-cycle tools that I don't use very often, I've starting mixing fuel
in a 500ml pop bottle and measure the oil with a syringe. One tank of
fuel for most small engines. If you do the same you could custom mix it
for each tool.
-Bob
ransley
More oil is better for engine life but many engines run poorly at
richer oil mixes. I have a 1984 lawnboy designed for 32-1 and I run
synthetic at maybe 40 to 46 - 1. Id say use a good synthetic and see
how they run and try one mix
Tony Hwang
Hi,
For me, I'll settle for 45"1 with best oil you can get.
Stormin Mormon
sieze the engine. I run 32:1 in my two cycle equipment, and
risk the fouling.
This thread will run a while, until someone quotes
Confucious or Aristotle. Here we go, again.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"SF Man" <lavo...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:itb690$vjl$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Jules Richardson
> For 2-cycle tools that I don't use very often, I've starting mixing fuel
> in a 500ml pop bottle and measure the oil with a syringe.
Yes, I've got a straight-sided jug that I use to do the same, which I
marked off for the tank capacities of different tools. Good tip on the
syringe; for the oil I've got a little marked-off cup thing which I think
came from a tub of laundry cleaner, but the syringe would probably work
better.
I think for 50:1 v 40:1 it's "close enough" that it wouldn't matter using
the same mix, but I've got a little tiller which likes a lot of oil and
runs on 24:1.
cheers
Jules
Ed Pawlowski
I'd go with 40:1 and risk a fouled plug in the 50 engine. If that happens,
you can always go lighter, but once the engine is seized, changing the mix
won't help.
RonB
I am not an expert but I always considered it important enough to mark
separate cans for my chain saw and weed eater which use different
mixes. I generally use Stihl oil in both.
RonB
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
The secret is to use good 50:1 oil. Never use an oil that is only
designed for 40:1 at 50:1 - and PWC oil is not necessarily acceptable,
at any ratio, for air cooled power tools. You want AIR COOLED two
stroke oil. (they run hotter than water cooled engines)
cl...@snyder.on.ca
>On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 20:30:50 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
><cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Too much oil, and you foul spark plugs. Too little, and you
>>sieze the engine. I run 32:1 in my two cycle equipment, and
>>risk the fouling.
>>
>>This thread will run a while, until someone quotes
>>Confucious or Aristotle. Here we go, again.
>
>Hillbilly Confucius: 'Risk fouling the spark plug and not seizing
>engine.'
It's not just plug fouling - it is also carbon build-up.
In Burkina Faso (and many other African countries) they run the oil
mix extra strong on their mopeds to keep them from seizing up in the
heat - wevery month or so it's pop off the cyl head and scrape the
carbon off the head, piston, and ports with a wooden stick..
Smoke like a fiend!!!
cl...@snyder.on.ca
>Smart fellers huh?!
>
>Do they change the head gasket or maybe use Permatex <G>
Generally they re-use the head gasket - quite often they make their
own replacement out of sheet copper, and anneal it every couple times
they take it off - just throw it on the fire, pull it out and quench
it.
Many of the Mopeds running around in Ougedougou and other cities are
OLD colonial era units - Solex, Peugeot, Motobecane, Mobylette? etc
from the early to mid sixties. Then there are the later Hondas etc and
the new Tomy and other Chinese units. Many of the old ones have very
little paint left on them - sun-bleached and worn to a fine patina.
SF Man
Thanks for that idea Bob. I had not thought of that.
Since the fuel tanks are so very small, that's an option (I'd have to
measure each one though and get a syringe, as you noted).
SF Man
> I've got a straight-sided jug that I use to do the same, which I
> marked off for the tank capacities of different tools.
Hi Jules,
Thanks for that tip, on top of Bob's suggestion.
I see if I get the right sized jug, I can mark it for the capacity of each
tool, and, ad hoc, mix the oil and gas at the time of fill.
Of course, that's a problem with partial fills.
So, I would have to do a behavioral modification (full fills only allowed).
Jules Richardson
>>Hillbilly Confucius: 'Risk fouling the spark plug and not seizing
>>engine.'
> It's not just plug fouling - it is also carbon build-up.
> In Burkina Faso (and many other African countries) they run the oil mix
> extra strong on their mopeds to keep them from seizing up in the heat -
> wevery month or so it's pop off the cyl head and scrape the carbon off
> the head, piston, and ports with a wooden stick..
That's also a maintenance requirement (every 30 hours of run-time, IIRC)
for the B&S engine in my mower. The head gaskets seem designed to be
reusable, at least to a certain extent. I expect it might be a
requirement for a lot of yard equipment, but nobody ever bothers :-)
cheers
Jules
Jules Richardson
> I see if I get the right sized jug, I can mark it for the capacity of
> each tool, and, ad hoc, mix the oil and gas at the time of fill.
>
> Of course, that's a problem with partial fills.
Yes, that's the main drawback. OTOH, I never know how much I'm going to
be using each tool each season, and I don't want leftover mixes sitting
around, so I just got into the habit of running them dry before re-
filling.
I suppose the jug could be marked for fractions of a tank, too, but
that's perhaps more trouble than it's worth :-)
cheers
Jules
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"SF Man" <lavo...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:itc8ot$j8j$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
cl...@snyder.on.ca
I've pulled the head oftermore like 60 hours and not enough carbon to
worry about on both Tecumseh and Briggs engines with unleaded gas.
Bach when gas was leaded it was a different situation -
lead/ash/carbon deposits were sizeable and HARD.
SF Man
> not enough carbon to worry about ... with unleaded gas.
Interestingly, the local tool shed strongly advises 89 or 91 AKI (octane
rating) of not more than 10% ethanol (which, here in California, is almost
impossible not to use).
I'm not sure why they are so strong about not using 87 AKI with the
two-stroke motors.
When I asked them about the 40:1 and 50:1 ratios, they tried to sell me
this 'stuff' in a can which they say lasts forever and has the oil and gas
already mixed (so they were of no real use).
I trust you guys - 'cuz you're not making money off of me - and I can trust
your advice.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 21:14:14 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>> not enough carbon to worry about ... with unleaded gas.
>
>Interestingly, the local tool shed strongly advises 89 or 91 AKI (octane
>rating) of not more than 10% ethanol (which, here in California, is almost
>impossible not to use).
>
>I'm not sure why they are so strong about not using 87 AKI with the
>two-stroke motors.
Small high output 2 strokes are high compression motors - and oil
mixed with the fuel drops the AKI significantly - starting with 98
MIGHT yeild 87, 91 might give you 89
SF Man
> oil mixed with the fuel drops the AKI significantly - starting with 98
> MIGHT yeild 87, 91 might give you 89
I'm not doubting you ('cuz I don't know) ... and I had never thought about
what oil does to the octane rating ... but ...
I would 'think' that oil would be harder to burn than gasoline ... so ...
adding oil ... I would think ... would RAISE the octane rating.
Are you sure oil lowers the octane rating?
SF Man
> I generally use Stihl oil in both.
In doing research on the oil & ratio, I find the following tidbits of
interest:
- Two-stroke oil reduces the octane rating by about 2 points.
- Two-stroke oil raises the octane rating (by an unspecified amount).
- All Echo 2-stroke equipment requires 89 octane gasoline with ISO-L-EGD &
JASO M345 FC/FD two-stroke oil
- Using more two-stroke oil (i.e., 40:1 vs 50:1) will not help your engine.
- Do not use synthetic two-stroke oil.
- Two-stroke oil reduces the octane rating by about 2 points.
"First, when fuel is premixed with 2-stroke oil, the octane rating is
reduced by about 2 points. An 87 octane fuel would therefore become 85
octane. Second, fuel evaporates and loses its octane rating when it lays in
your aircraft's fuel tank or in a plastic jug. A "premium", 91 octane fuel
will see its octane rating reduced to unusable levels after as little as
three weeks. Fuel with a lower octane rating would obviously have an even
shorter usable life.
REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
- Two-stroke oil raises the octane rating (by an unspecified amount).
"adding oil to the gasoline will raise the octane. The amount that it will
raise the octane though would be very little. The reason for this is
twofold. First, with a fuel-oil ratio on the order of 25:1 - 50:1, there is
actually very little oil added to the gasoline. Second, when the oil/gas
mixture enters the cylinder, the oil will "drop out" while the gasoline
will remain a vapor. this is due the oil's lower vaporization rate. If the
oil didn't do this, there would be no lubricating effect and the engine
would quickly seize."
REFERENCE:
http://www.wmi.org/bassfish/bassboard/boats_motors/message.html?message_id=184343
- Using more two-stroke oil (i.e., 40:1 vs 50:1) will not help your engine.
"The ratio is 50 to 1, or 2%. This means you would mix 400mL of oil in 20L
of fuel, 500mL for 25L, and so on. Using more oil than recommended would
not help your engine in any way: it will accelerate the formation of carbon
deposits which will eventually break loose and accelerate wear."
REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
- All Echo 2-stroke equipment requires 89 octane gasoline with ISO-L-EGD &
JASO M345 FC/FD two-stroke oil
"ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD oil must be used with a mid-grade (89
octane) or premium gasoline in all 1997 and newer engines."
REFERENCE:
http://hubersgarage.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/ECHO_FUEL.10073242.doc
- Do not use synthetic two-stroke oil.
"Synthetic oil should only be used by those who operate their engine nearly
every day. Even when shut down, air is constantly circulating through a
2-stroke engine; it is never sealed like a 4-stroke engine. Even though it
has excellent lubricating properties, a synthetic oil does not effectively
protect a stopped 2-stroke engine against corrosion: it tends to attract
moisture and will run off the parts rather than leave a protective
coating."
REFERENCE: http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
jamesgangnc
>
> - Using more two-stroke oil (i.e., 40:1 vs 50:1) will not help your engine.
> "The ratio is 50 to 1, or 2%. This means you would mix 400mL of oil in 20L
> of fuel, 500mL for 25L, and so on. Using more oil than recommended would
> not help your engine in any way: it will accelerate the formation of carbon
> deposits which will eventually break loose and accelerate wear."
> REFERENCE:http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
>
> - All Echo 2-stroke equipment requires 89 octane gasoline with ISO-L-EGD &
> JASO M345 FC/FD two-stroke oil
> "ISO-L-EGD and JASO M345 FC/FD oil must be used with a mid-grade (89
> octane) or premium gasoline in all 1997 and newer engines."
>
> - Do not use synthetic two-stroke oil.
> "Synthetic oil should only be used by those who operate their engine nearly
> every day. Even when shut down, air is constantly circulating through a
> 2-stroke engine; it is never sealed like a 4-stroke engine. Even though it
> has excellent lubricating properties, a synthetic oil does not effectively
> protect a stopped 2-stroke engine against corrosion: it tends to attract
> moisture and will run off the parts rather than leave a protective
> coating."
> REFERENCE:http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
The ratio depends more on the oil than it does the equipment. I run
everything I have on marine 2 stroke oil at 50:1. We have a jetski so
we buy oil by the gallon. I've been doing it fo years and haven't had
a problem. My chainsaw is 30 years old. I've got a lawnboy that is
20 years old.
Steve Barker
Your thinking is correct. the reason they recommend the higher octane
is solely the compression ratios.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
Steve Barker
> On Jun 17, 4:43 am, SF Man<lavoc...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 18:51:57 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote:
>>> I generally use Stihl oil in both.
>>
I also ran about 50 gallons a week of 50:1 mix gas through about 30
pieces of equipment, for almost 2 years. (That's a lot of gas and oil)
Using only quicksilver oil mix. THEN the stihl guy caught wind of it
and advised us that any lubrication based warranty claims we might have
could be denied, so i switched to the stihl oil.
jamesgangnc
>
> - Show quoted text -
Th stihl guy is lying to you. There are consumer protection laws that
prevent any manufacturer from voiding a warranty claim as long as you
have used oil that meets or exceeds the equipment requirement. No
matter who made the oil. You can use the walmart oil and they can't
do a thing about it.
Steve Barker
That's true, but the merc quicksilver oil is certified for water cooled.
I doubt it meets the requirements for the air cooled spec.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:28:52 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Absolutely sure - and I'm likely one in a thousand on this group that
actually understands octane and detonation in an internal combustion
engine.
Octane of a fuel has NOTHING to do with how fast it burns - and if it
did, FASTER burning fuel would have a higher AKI or octane rating.
This is because of the way detonation happens - unburned fuel -
endgasses - in the cyl dissassociate into hydrogen and oxygen
radicals, which are extremey active and explosive. This only happens
with temerature and pressure over time - so if the fuel burns FAST
there is less endgas in the cyl, for a shorter time - so less chance
of disassociation and detonation. (also part of the reason an engine
knocks more at low speed than at high speed, generally speaking.
This is a very "dumbed down" explanation - but it is accurate as far
as it goes.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 18:51:57 -0700 (PDT), RonB wrote:
4 out of 5 of those references are accurate. The one that is not is
the one from Bubba the BassFisher.
As far as the one about not using more than recommended, it is only
accurate if using the correct oil. If NOT using the correct oil, more
oil may provide close to the same protection as using the right amount
of the right oil. - but it IS true.
As for not using synthetic 2 stroke oil, it is also accurate -
particularly with a simple port timed 2 stroke. A rotary valve or Rave
valve 2 stroke is more of a sealed system when shut down, suffering
less from moisture and corrosion issues - the ideal may be to use a
semi synthetic - just enough "real" oil to provide some anti-corrosion
protection, while most of the lubrication is provided by the
"smokeless" synthetic.
On a $99 weedeater I wouldnt worry too much about it, but on an $8000
Rotax aircraft engine Iwould pay heed to their warnings.
The problem with Bubba the Bassfisher's assertion that oil increases
the octane rating is that it is just plane WRONG (hey, don't take my
word for it - Echo, and Rotax - MAJOR manufacturers of 2 stroke
engines agree)
cl...@snyder.on.ca
But using oil for a water cooled 2 stroke in a highly stressed air
cooled engine is NOT recommended (generally) and MAY require a
different mixture. Some, but not all "outboard motor oil" is suitable
and meets the JASO M345 FD spec.
If it only meets tc/w3 it is not recommended for, for instance, chain
saw use. JASO M345 Fd severely limits engine deposits and reduces
smoke, as well as requiring minimum lubricity levels etc.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
No, it is not correct. Oil reduces the AKI of a fuel.
And if you read to the bottom of the bassfisher blog you would see
that the error was corrected.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
True - as long as it meets or excedes the published spec.
If it does not, and they can prove it - you have no warranty.
SF Man
> This is a very "dumbed down" explanation - but it is accurate as far
> as it goes.
The Bruce Hamilton gasoline FAQ covers octane ratings in detail:
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/
Unfortunately, Bruce didn't add a question to the FAQ of:
- Does adding 2-stroke oil to gasoline raise or lower the octane rating?
So, I will send him an email asking him to include that in the next
revision of the Gasoline FAQ so that we may all benefit.
If he provides an answer via email, I'll post it here.
SF Man
>>Are you sure oil lowers the octane rating?
> Absolutely sure - and I'm likely one in a thousand on this group that
> actually understands octane
Still googling, I find this which backs you up:
http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tech/two-stroke-gasoil-ratios-20502.html
"When all of the two strokes (the old days) were developed, they all used
Castrol petroleum oil at a 20:1 ratio and found that 92 octane gas had the
octane reduced to 72 with presence of that much oil. Modern oils won’t
affect the fuel quite as much, but if you started with 86 or 87 octane
regular fuel, you can see where you’ll end with a very low octane mix. You
could end up with a “pinging” bike."
zxcvbob
Look at the Quicksilver PWC oil. It is certified for air-cooled and not
water cooled. It's expensive; I think it's about $9 a quart at Walmart.
I haven't bought it because I'm still working on a bottle of Castrol
2-cycle oil.
-Bob
Bubba
It wont hurt using ONE tank that much. Using fuel that isn't the same ratio
will harm the unit. It will carbon up and rings will stick, exhaust will get
clogged and the combustion chamber will be full of carbon. 35 years as a
factory tech for stihl( gold) ,echo, husqvarna and a master OPE TECH.
Not a good idea.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/40-1-or-50-1-two-stroke-tools-what-to-do-if-you-have-both-637967-.htm
Bubba
And you would burn it up with a leaner mix...you garage mecahnics are what
keeps me fed...but don't tell folks stuff that ruins their equipment.
Bubba
Correct! Finally someone with sense...
Bubba
And you will cause a carbon to build up...when it breaks loose it will
devistate the engine ..not smart advice.
Bubba
You will burn up it up with your thinking.....its not designed to run with
'close enough' ratio fuel mix. Don't understand why folks want to shortcut
stuff ...then it tears up. Then you bring it to me for warranty, and I know
that you haven't used the right ratio , when I go through it, and I tell you
too bad, and then you get mad. Be smart , not lazy. It will save you time nd
aggravation.
Bubba
Thank you for posting. It drives us techs crazy when people use the advice of
people who don't research. Its refreshing.
Bubba
Fouled plug is the least of your worries...carbon build up in the chamber,
rings, and exhaust port....when that carbon breaks loose, it devistates the
cylinder and piston...you're givem incorrect advice. Smh
Bubba
You most definitely havent been using 50:1 marine mix in your
chainsaw....older chainsaws require more oil mix, and not marine mix.
My 35 years as strictly a two cycle tech, calls you on your bs.
Bubba
ash content is too high.
Bubba
the mix , meets, or exceeds the required jaso rating...they have to honor it.
Federal law says so.
Bubba
Cory
I know this post about 5 years old BUT.. this is the best reply on this page
that i have read... A very common misconception is this... engines do not have
a ratio. It's the oil that has a ratio.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/40-1-or-50-1-two-stroke-tools-what-to-do-if-you-have-both-637967-.htm
DerbyDad03
> replying to jamesgangnc, Cory wrote:
> I know this post about 5 years old BUT.. this is the best reply on this page
> that i have read... A very common misconception is this... engines do not have
> a ratio. It's the oil that has a ratio.
>
A ratio is a comparison of two or more objects. None of the individual items "has" a ratio.
A ratio can be used to describe the relationship *between* the items.
trimmer88
Why can't you just use Mobile 1 at the proper ratio ie. 40:1? Why does it have
to be 2 stroke oil?
-tc
What about premixed 40/50:1...can I use the 50:1 premix. In a 40:1 engine?
From your previous posts, I take it I should only use the recommended mix per
tool
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/40-1-or-50-1-two-stroke-tools-what-to-do-if-you-have-both-637967-.htm
Grumpy Old White Guy
> replying to Bubba, -tc wrote:
> What about premixed 40/50:1...can I use the 50:1 premix. In a 40:1 engine?
> From your previous posts, I take it I should only use the recommended mix per
> tool
>
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/saber-professional-synthetic-2-stroke-oil/?code=ATPPK-EA
cl...@snyder.on.ca
the oil is recommended for. Never, for instance, mix 32:1 at 50:1, no
matter what the engine specification is.
ji...@filed.com
> The most important rule is NEVER create a mix that is "leaner" than
>the oil is recommended for. Never, for instance, mix 32:1 at 50:1, no
>matter what the engine specification is.
lubrication for any and all 2 cycle engines.
HB
That does not make any sense. that would be a 1:1 ratio and the equipment
would never start-up. people are talking about whether it is safe to use 40:1
gas on 50:1 mixture and you say 1 gal gas to 1 gal oil? surly you didn,t mean
that.
Bobby
It does not have to make sense. This is the internet so it is true. Do it!
Leighan13
Bubba - my problem is all the fuel in our area now has ethanol. The only fuel
without it that I can find is pre-mixed. So which should I use 40:1 or 50:1??
Kyle1989
It’s not same oil
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/40-1-or-50-1-two-stroke-tools-what-to-do-if-you-have-both-637967-.htm
Reginald Zale
This is not "rocket science"! Use 40:1 mix on all of your equipment that calls
for either 40:1, 45:1 or 50:1. This will provide the correct lubrication for
the 40:1 engine. Provide 5% added lubrication to the 45:1 engine and a
whopping 10% added to the 50:1 engine. These slight added amounts will not
cause any problems. Just think about how much oil is left in the bottle when
you pour the mix into the fuel can. There's probably 5% of the measured
amount adhered to the sides of the container. Unless you are totally "anal"
and squeegy out every drop and micro measure one exact gallon, there isn't
that much of a difference. And the supposed "TECH" that claims it will cause
"carboning" is just full of it. This may occur if you run the engine rich for
it's entire life cycle +, but for the everyday Joe, it really doesn't matter.
trader_4
> replying to SF Man, Reginald Zale wrote:
> This is not "rocket science"! Use 40:1 mix on all of your equipment that calls
> for either 40:1, 45:1 or 50:1. This will provide the correct lubrication for
> the 40:1 engine. Provide 5% added lubrication to the 45:1 engine and a
> whopping 10% added to the 50:1 engine.
If you mix it to 40:1, it will provide 12.5% more oil to the engine
that's spec'd for 45:1 and 25% more oil to the engine that's spec'd
for 50:1. That's 2.5 times your values.
Willy
> replying to SF Man, Reginald Zale wrote:
> This is not "rocket science"! Use 40:1 mix on all of your equipment that calls
> for either 40:1, 45:1 or 50:1. This will provide the correct lubrication for
> the 40:1 engine. Provide 5% added lubrication to the 45:1 engine and a
> whopping 10% added to the 50:1 engine. These slight added amounts will not
> cause any problems. Just think about how much oil is left in the bottle when
> you pour the mix into the fuel can. There's probably 5% of the measured
> amount adhered to the sides of the container. Unless you are totally "anal"
> and squeegy out every drop and micro measure one exact gallon, there isn't
> that much of a difference. And the supposed "TECH" that claims it will cause
> "carboning" is just full of it. This may occur if you run the engine rich for
> it's entire life cycle +, but for the everyday Joe, it really doesn't matter.
Terry Coombs
--
Snag
Ain't no dollar sign on
peace of mind - Zac Brown
theDuck01
I find it hard to believe all oils are the same, so 1:40 or 1:50 will really
depend on oil brand as much as anything else.
trader_4
to say if you're using brand X oil then it's 40:1, for brand Z oil it's 50:1
for K oil it's 80:1. I've never seen that, have you?
Samuel Hill
I use trufuel and its premixed and that makes you machines run smoother and
starts easier 2 pulls and they are running .
I can let the fuel stay in the machine until the next season without a problem
because it has no ethanol that causes the hoses and gaskets to deteriorate.
This type of fuel keeps your machines out of the repair shops.
trader_4
Julio Castro
Look at the JASO rating it will tell you what quality of oil it is. Do not
rely on the name brand. Stihl has an oil with a rating of FB. FD is the best
rating you can buy. Look for FD in whatever brand is available.
dobo
I have mixed my 1981 Lawn-Boy "Utility" mower at 50:1 since I bought it new
in 1981. I still use it each season and usually starts on 1 or 2 pulls. i.e.
compression is good. not my main mower but used for trimming. change spark
plug when needed (years a part) (38 years running) !!!! Todd in St.
Paul
tech07
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/40-1-or-50-1-two-stroke-tools-what-to-do-if-you-have-both-637967-.htm
Mr.Hill757
Ed Pawlowski
> I only use true fuel and all my equipment that way there is no mixup. I
> mark each tool with its ratio. That way it takes all the guess work out
> of mixing the gas,oil and fuel stabilizer. It also extends the life of
> the tool. To say least makes startup easier. I don’t have to winterize
> because there is no ethanol to gum up my lines and carburetors. That
> alone is enough for me not to mix my gas. Hope this helps
>
gas and add oil and stabilizer and come out at about 5 bucks.
Ralph Mowery
> Takes the guess work out but Trugas is $32 a gallon. I buy ethanol free
> gas and add oil and stabilizer and come out at about 5 bucks.
>
>
It may be fine for someone that only has one or two small engines an
burns a small can every year or even 2 and nothing else or did not have
a good storage area. I might see that for someone that has an electric
mower and only uses a weedeater or such for a short time every year.
As I burn through a couple of gallons almost every week or two during
the mowing season and a gallon or more of mixed gas every month or so,
It would really cost me too much. I could probably pay someone to do
the yard work at those rates.
gfre...@aol.com
it. If you go sweet talk any compounding pharmacy they will give you
or sell you a 10CC syringe. That works great for mixing small amounts
of gas. I have the amount of oil necessary for a tank of gas at the
appropriate mix written on each machine with a sharpie. It takes a
little effort on the front end but since the tanks are metric these
days, not that much math. The easy one is my chain saw that runs 50:1
and it holds a half liter of gas. 10CCs does it.