Drywall 9' walls
Steve Barker
His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for
drywalling 9' walls?
thanks
steve
willshak
1' off them.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Steve Barker
> Steve Barker wrote the following:
>> Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout.
>> His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for
>> drywalling 9' walls?
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> steve
> Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut
> 1' off them.
>
Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of
all those vertical tape joints.
DD_BobK
Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung
horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets.
I was surprised at this configuration since not all belly band edges
would be tapered. But I guess ease of taping (more accessible height)
was more imorptant than edge tapers?
cheers
Bob
Rudy
>> what is the standard procedure for drywalling 9' walls?
> Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut 1'
> off them.
No, actually they sell 9 ft drywall board. I used it vertically in my
basement
Joe
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:V7WdncTED_Nf-R7W...@giganews.com...
54" wide sheets hung horizontally.
dpb
> available. Does it come in sheetrock brand?
All major manufacturers. May not be at the box store.
--
DanG
for exactly your reason. Commercial work would usually run the 9'
vertical, residential would run the 54.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:V7WdncTED_Nf-R7W...@giganews.com...
HerHusband
> His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for
> drywalling 9' walls?
We built our own house and had walls varying from 8' to 15'. I personally
prefer to hang sheets vertically. This ensures all edges are supported by
framing, and all edges on the wall are tapered for smoother joints (you
would end up with butt joints if your walls are longer than 16', which we
had many). True, it will be a bit more work to tape, but I've always done
it this way and haven't found it to be a big deal.
Another advantage to hanging sheets vertically is you can use standard off
the shelf drywall 4x8, 4x10, or 4x12, cut to the height of your wall. It
wastes a little drywall, but can save over special order fees.
If you're working alone, hanging sheets vertically usually allows you to
use smaller sheets which means less weight to carry.
If you do choose to hang sheets horizontally, and can't find wider sheets,
my preference would be a 1' band at the top or the bottom, so you can
maintain tapered edges. Tapered edges allow much smoother joints, and
you'll really appreciate the difference if you have to mount a cabinet to
the wall or something (no "bulge" in the wall from the butt joint).
I put a 1' band at the top of the wall when we remodeled my in-laws
bathroom. I had to climb the ladder to do the ceiling corners anyway, so it
was easy to do the seam near the top of the wall at the same time. I would
normally cut down 10' sheets and hang them vertically, but in this case it
was more efficient to hang the sheets horizontally (less waste).
Anthony
Steve Barker
thanks for the reply. I did do one wall this way in an older house we
rehabbed. I had to tear out one plaster wall to replace a sewer stack
and did exactly what you said here. It worked out well having the band
in the middle. At least no bending over to work it.
Steve Barker
NOW you're talking my game! I wasn't really sure if such a thing were
Joe
BTW, if you're not *really* good at the finishing work, but are good at
taping, you can make the time vs $$ numbers work by doing the hanging,
taping and 1st coat of mud yourself, then hiring someone else to do the
finishing. There are good guys looking for side work, and while you might
get to the same end result as they do, I can almost guarantee they'll get
there faster...
My $1/50, ymmv, etc...
jc
nor...@earthlink.net
> Any commercial drywall supply carries 9' drywall and 54" drywall
> for exactly your reason. Commercial work would usually run the 9'
> vertical, residential would run the 54.
>
Colbyt
If you can't find the wider board or choose not to pay the price consider
hanging 2 four foot boards. One at the top and one at the bottom.
Use 3/8" non tapered, well planned edges for the center band. By the time
you finish the double joints you will have a really smooth wall and only use
a little extra mud and tape. You will get 3 cuts from each 3/8" board using
this method.
I have done this more than once with very pleasing results each time.
--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
chaniarts
in my office, it's 10' ceilings with a 1' drop ceiling for lights/ac.
Harry K
> "Steve Barker" <ichasetra...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Yep, I wondered if anyone would point out that such are available.
May need special order though.
Hanging sheets vertically is a tapers nightmare. I learned that the
first time I did my own.
Harry K
Tony
I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is
about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung
vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all beveled
seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing?
Wayne Whitney
> I've been close to asking a similar question. my garage ceiling is
> about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung
> vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all
> beveled seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing?
I don't have any direct experience, but I think the idea is that while
taping, it is much easier to walk along a horizontal joint than a
vertical joint. For a 4' vertical butt joint, you can probably reach
the whole joint from a single location, while for a 9'6" vertical
joint, you'd have to move up and down a ladder repeatedly.
Cheers,
Wayne
benick
news:h9f9o5h3tbjsso10r...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 22:11:33 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK <rkaz...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>On Feb 22, 9:47 pm, Steve Barker <ichasetra...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> willshak wrote:
>>> > Steve Barker wrote the following:
>>> >> Gonna be helping a friend build a new house after a complete burnout.
>>> >> His ceilings are going to be 9'. what is the standard procedure for
>>> >> drywalling 9' walls?
>>>
>>> >> thanks
>>>
>>> >> steve
>>> > Same as for 8' high walls, but you have to get 10' high panels and cut
>>> > 1' off them.
>>>
>>> Well normally 8' walls would be hung horizontally. Hate the thought of
>>> all those vertical tape joints.
>>
>>Out in SoCal, I've seen 9' ceilings done with two 4' wide sheets (hung
>>horizontally) and a "belly band" of about 1' between the two sheets.
>>
>
> if you wish to hang horizontally and avoid the belly band. Here at
> least, 54 inch board only comes in 12 footers.
>
> Don't know if the box stores carry these or not.
>
> Ken
>
Ditto , that is the CORRECT way to do it...Go to any lumber or drywall
place...NOT Home depot or Lowes...
benick
news:Xns9D284C86CA...@188.40.43.213...
Hanging the sheetrock vertically is wrong because the wooden studs aren't
perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if the layout
isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the stud and you will
be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge which then makes it an 8
foot butt joint..Plus any movement , expansion or contraction with the
changing seasons will cause cracks and it highlites the imperfections in the
framing and generally looks like shit...Hanging sheets horizontally with 12
foot rock covers more (most times the entire wall) , is much stronger and
looks flat..The job I'm on now we used 14 and 16 foot rock as well...Didn't
want butt joints in the cathederal room....You wouldn't hang plywood
vertically nor should you hang sheetrock that way...The only exception is
steel framing in commercial work...Perfect studs and and drop ceilings with
no butts on the VERY long walls where speed is the biggest concern...Using
54 inch rock is the correct way to do walls over 8 feet high....HTH...
HerHusband
> aren't perfect...Some may bow out , some bow in and some both and if
> the layout isn't PERFECT the sheets won't fall in the center of the
> stud and you will be adding nailers or trimming off the recessed edge
> which then makes it an 8 foot butt joint..Plus any movement ,
> expansion or contraction with the changing seasons will cause cracks
> and it highlites the imperfections in the framing and generally looks
> like shit.
I'm sure there are pro's and con's to each method, but I still prefer
vertical installations. We did our garage and house vertically, and five
years later there are no cracks and no hint of a seam anywhere in the
house.
We had 14'x24' walls in our kitchen/dining area that were easily handled
by installing 14' sheets vertically. No butt joints anywhere. Not to
mention, it would have been difficult to hoist full sheets 8' up to the
top of the wall and hold them there while we fastened them. Maybe no big
deal for a drywall crew, but a deal breaker for a couple of DIY'ers
working alone.
The 24' and 28' walls in our garage also worked out better installing
vertically than horizontally, again, no butt joints.
Of course, we did the framing ourselves too, and were very careful about
the placement of the studs. When the framing is inconsistent, I agree a
vertical installation can be a pain. We recently remodeled some rooms at
my inlaws and the old framing was spaced anywhere from 14" to 18". So, we
did have to install a fair amount of blocking. One of the rooms was
nearly 16' long, and it would have been impossible to get a sheet that
long into the room. Eight foot sheets worked out great, and again, no
butt joints anywhere (except the ceiling).
> You wouldn't hang plywood vertically
When we built our house, code REQUIRED all edges of the plywood to be
backed by framing and nailed every 6" around the perimeter. Short of
installing blocking along the entire wall, hanging the plywood vertically
was the only way to meet code and build proper sheer walls.
If it works for plywood, it works for drywall.
> Using 54 inch rock is the correct way to
> do walls over 8 feet high.
"Correct" means different things to different people.
The average DIY job doesn't have the volume necessary to justify the
special order and/or delivery costs for 54" sheets. Even if I could find
54" sheets at a local supplier, I'd have a hard time hauling them home.
On the other hand, 4x8 sheets are available at any home center, are easy
to haul home in a small trailer or the back of a truck, and are light
enough for one person to carry if needed.
If I had a project large enough to warrant a delivery that may not be an
issue, but for small one room projects it's usually not worth the cost.
Just something to consider.
Anthony
Harry K
>
> - Show quoted text -
1. Footage: Running horizontal results in about 1/3 less footage of
seams.
2. Door/windows: It is a rare 12' wall that does not have an
opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt
joints above/below the openings
3. Taping a butt joint, even one that has one tapered and one cut
edge, is not a big deal. Just do not use the mesh type tape on a flat
joint. Very hard to cover without having a buildup.
4. Crawling up/down ladders or stools while trying to do a smooth job
is not fun.
Learned that the hard way on my first job. You would have to hold a
gun to my head before I would run vertical again.
Harry K
HerHusband
> about 9' 6" and was gong to ask about 10' drywall cut down and hung
> vertically. I would think the taping would be a breeze with all
> beveled seams instead of the butt joints? What am I missing?
We installed drywall vertically in our garage and house.
You'll be climbing up and down the ladder to do the ceiling and corner
joints anyway, so a few extra vertical seams is no big deal. In my opinion,
the lack of butt joints makes it well worth the minor additional effort.
I didn't find it to be a problem, even with the 14+ foot walls in our
house.
Anthony
Nonny
Before going vertical, be sure to work out where the seams will
be. Framing folk are famous for not keeping 16" centers across a
room- particularly where walls meet, there are windows or doors.
Lay out the installation ahead of time with a magic marker to X
the studs that will get the tapered edges.
Even so, it can be done and it's sure easier for one man to tip up
a piece, then use a toe jack to raise it 1/2" or so to the ceiling
than to hoist a piece 4' horizontally.
--
Nonny
Luxury cars now offer a great seating option for politicians.
These seats blow heated air onto their backside in the winter and
cooled air in the summer. If sold to voters, though, the car
seats
are modified to just blow smoke up the voter�s rump year-round
DanG
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
<nor...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Wq2dncXSR_lZdR7W...@earthlink.com...
HerHusband
> opening of some sort in it. Planning puts all, or almost all, butt
> joints above/below the openings
No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an
unavoidable "bulge" in the wall. While this may or may not be visible to
the eye, it would make the trim installation more difficult if placed over
openings like that.
Anthony
Wayne Whitney
> No matter how carefully you tape a butt joint, you will end up with an
> unavoidable "bulge" in the wall.
There are solutions to avoiding a bulge at a drywall butt joint. Some
of them are discussed here:
<http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42655>.
Cheers, Wayne
Tony
About the doors and windows, I thought putting a joint at either corner
was a very big no, no. It cracks too easy. Put the whole sheet across
the window, with adhesive also, and cut it after it's up. That's how I
was shown to do it... while my mother kept saying the guy is wasting so
much drywall and wanting to use all the scraps and have a million seams.
I understand about the going up and down the ladder, something I never
thought about until I heard it here.
Tony
Mine is 9' 6", so 54 inch wouldn't be worth the trouble.
I'm surprised I never see anyone here mention using adhesive when
putting up drywall? It was pretty much standard practice on the jobs
I've seen done and helped with. I think glue would more than make up
for any weakness due to running vertically. As far as crooked studs,
I'm doing this myself and at the moment my time isn't worth much so
sistering a 2x4 to a warped stud isn't going to slow me down much.
Harry K
>
> - Show quoted text -
I put any joints in the middle, not the corners.
Harry K
Harry K
Odd, I have a butt join over every window/door I have and had no
trouble with trim. If you have a bulge big enough to cause trouble,
you ain't a good taper. I for sure ain't much of a taper and I don't
have a problem.
Harry K
Harry K
Oops, forgot to add. Put no joint at the corners of the opening, they
go in the middle of the space. Best of course is a sheet going right
across the space but then you wind up with an extra 8' or 9' butt
joint.
Harry K
Steve Barker
I call BS on this one. At most, the thickness of the joint is going to
be 1/8" and feathered out 10+ inches on each side of it, it becomes a
nothing.
HerHusband
> and had no trouble with trim.
OK, I just try to avoid butt joints, so I'll take your word for it.
I think the point is there's nothing set in stone that drywall HAS to be
hung horizontally or vertically. I've done it both ways, and still prefer
vertical hanging for most installations. If horizontal works better for
you, by all means go with that.
The pro's game is speed and efficiency. They wouldn't think twice about
throwing up a 16' sheet horizontally to span a room and avoid an extra
joint. They have the manpower, equipment, and probably a few tricks up
their sleeve from years of experience.
The average DIY'er probably works alone, or with the help of one other
person (i.e. The wife). It's easier to use smaller sheets and have a few
extra joints to tape, than it is to wrestle a large sheet in place just to
avoid a joint.
Home Centers are open after work, which means that's the typical supply
source for most DIY projects. And, most folks don't have a way to transport
sheets larger than 4x8 anyway. If the job is big enough, I'll have the
sheetrock delivered, but that usually doesn't make sense for a small room
that only needs a few sheets. Delivery is also not an option if there's no
place to store the sheets, like my in-laws tiny cluttered house.
I've done a lot of drywall projects, but I'm still far from an expert. I
just know what works for me.
Anthony
DD_BobK
Plus the thickness of the tape and mud over the butt joint is not even
1/8".
"Bulges" come from uneven / mismatched joints or crappy mud jobs.
Keep your mud build up over the joint only as thick as necessary to
hide the tape and use a decent sized knife to feather the mud out.
"less is more" :)
cheers
Bob
benick
It's NOT special order and delivery is usually free but hey you can do it
however you want....I'm sure it looks good to you and that's all that
matters...To a pro more jonts mean more things can go wrong and time is
MONEY...LOL...I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being
on jobsites so I have to say bullshit to that little jem...
Harry K
> "HerHusband" <unkn...@unknown.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
I will add BS to the claim that code required blocking behind every
seam also. Been observing construction progress on all kinds of
buildings for 50 years and have never seen it done.
Harry K
terry
> "HerHusband" <unkn...@unknown.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
Gems of knowledge ................... ??????
Plywood is often placed horizontally for greater lateral strength and
rigidity?
Never heard of NOT having blocking behind ALL joints/seams? Potential
for cracking in frame construction?
Professionals place the upper sheets of drywall horizontally and at
top, of wall, to get better fit at ceiling and to permit any cutting
of bottom edge of lower sheet not meeting the floor etc. to be covered
by base moulding? Also ensures two tapered edges in 'middle' of wall?
Haven't done any sheetrock myself (as a complete amateur) for nearly
40 years. But both our 'stick-built' houses plaster-board sheeted with
three eighths, are fine and still standing after many storms!
BTW. Nowadays here, it's half inch or even five eighths (Fire regs.)
in some cases!
HerHusband
Around here anyway, delivery is usually only free if you purchase more
than certain quantity. That was five years ago and I don't recall the
cutoff point, but it's usually not worth the delivery cost for a few
sheets.
This is practically standard policy at any lumber yard or home center in
our area. If you don't order enough to justify delivery, they charge you
a fee. Think about it, why would anyone waive a $50 delivery charge if
you're only buying $50 of sheetrock? Of course, delivery is a wise choice
if you're doing a larger project.
> I have NEVER seen plywood hung vertically in 30 years of being
> on jobsites so I have to say bullshit to that little jem...
Maybe it's a regional thing. Around here (WA state) we have to use shear
wall construction for wind and seismic loads. That means all edges of the
sheathing must be supported by framing, nailed every 6" around the
perimeter, 12" in the interior, and securely fastened to the foundation.
We had to install special hold downs in the corners that extended from
deep within the foundation wall, up through the floor framing, and bolted
to posts in the wall. In some areas (like California), the connections
have to extend all the way to the roof.
While this can be done with sheathing run horizontally, it would require
blocking at the horizontal seams to maintain shear strength at the seam.
It's cheaper and easier to run the sheets vertically, which also means
less framing in the wall for easier plumbing, wiring, insulation, etc.
Also, if you use a combination sheathing/siding (like T-111 Plywood),
vertical is about the only good way to install it.
Here are a few references showing shear wall construction, all of which
install the plywood vertically:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_wall
http://www.abag.ca.gov/bayarea/eqmaps/fixit/manual/PT07-Ch-3A.PDF
http://jobsite.buildiq.com/media/95c375b2-0d20-4877-893a-9b26158b690c-
strongtie%20steel%20framed%20shear%20walls.pdf
http://timber.ce.wsu.edu/Supplements/ShearWall/Ratios.htm
Also, while this may not apply to builders with larger crews, we would
frame our walls in 8' panels on the subfloor, so the two of us could
easily tilt the walls up ourselves. It was a weight issue, more than a
design factor. Installing the two sheets vertically eliminated the need
for blocking, and by using sheets with shiplapped edges each wall section
would be overlapped by the previous section when we tilted it in place.
Anthony
DD_BobK
> "HerHusband" <unkn...@unknown.com> wrote in message
on jobsites so I have to say bullshit to that little jem (sic) <<<<
Then I assume you've never been to SoCal construction site.
In earthquake country, construction of plywood shear walls is
typically done with sheets vertically placed. All edges of the sheet
must be nailed per the specified nailing schedule (like 6/12 or 4/12)
and unless the framing is blocked (which is more more work), vertical
sheets are the easy way to assure having a "receiving member" under
all the edges.
Harry K-
Previous versions of the code used in SoCal allowed "drywall shear
walls"....yeah, pretty dumb but buildings were designed & built that
way.
A blocked "drywall shear walls" often would provide sufficient shear
capacity, such that, in multi story buildings the top floor(s) could
be sheathed in drywall only.....thus eliminating the need for plywood.
In previous codes, unblocked shear diaphragms were allowed but at
design capacities lower than blocked diaphragms. I have not kept up
with SoCal code changes wrt drywall vs plywood and blocked vs
unblocked shear walls. I believe that the allowable design shear
capacities of drywall shear walls were either lowered significantly or
eliminated. But in any case, drywall shear walls appear to be a
thing of the past.
Unblocked plywood shear walls (if still allowed in SoCal) would have
lower allowable design shear capacities so the standard industry
practice (at least IIRC) is vertical plywood sheets
cheers
Bob
aemeijers
In central IN, back in the stone age, the house corners were always
vertical plywood sheet, and the field filled with celotex whatever way
was the most painless to lay out. They would have the real carpenters
place the sheets and pin them, and the kids/gofers like me would get to
go add the rest of the nails. A real carpenter would spot-check until
they trusted you to hit the studs and space the nails correctly. (This
was all pre-nailgun era, mind you. Hand-hammering a few thousand nails
while trying to stay lined up on invisible framing got old real fast.)
--
aem sends...
krw
wrote:
You hang T-111 horizontally? THAT is bullshit.
Tony Hwang
Hmmm,
???????????????
Iggy
THANK YOU WILLSHAK! The first answer got it right, Steve I hope Vertical
Installation's what you did. There's NO benefit nor advantage to the
Horizontal Installation. It's the dumbest practice that ruins new everything
right from the start and provides poor fire protection.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/drywall-9-walls-426583-.htm
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Steve Barker, Iggy wrote:
>THANK YOU WILLSHAK! The first answer got it right, Steve I hope Vertical
>Installation's what you did. There's NO benefit nor advantage to the
>Horizontal Installation. It's the dumbest practice that ruins new everything
>right from the start and provides poor fire protection.
makes it a whole lot easier to hide the joints too, which is why
expert drywallers almost ALWATS install the panels horizontally - and
use sheets longer than 8 feet.
Uncle Monster
> replying to Steve Barker, Iggy wrote:
> THANK YOU WILLSHAK! The first answer got it right, Steve I hope Vertical
> Installation's what you did. There's NO benefit nor advantage to the
> Horizontal Installation. It's the dumbest practice that ruins new everything
> right from the start and provides poor fire protection.
> --
>
[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster
ItsJoanNotJoann
>
> I can't read.
> I am a dummy.
> I can't read.
Yes!! You certainly are!!
Iggy
Ha, ha, ha. You are clever.
--
Iggy
Very simply, the seams aren't air-tight and therefore not fire-tight. As
proven by the nightly news (see YouTube). Story upon story of this building
and that home burned down to the ground in less than 30-minutes...what
drywall's rated for and easily capable of retaining a fire for. But, even the
ASTM won't correct its decades-old error in The Code...I've tried for almost
15-years. If you haven't seen my posted-today list, Vertical Installation is
so good that it's not required to be taped and mudded and is at its full level
of fire protection upon installation.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
>Very simply, the seams aren't air-tight and therefore not fire-tight. As
>proven by the nightly news (see YouTube). Story upon story of this building
>and that home burned down to the ground in less than 30-minutes...what
>drywall's rated for and easily capable of retaining a fire for. But, even the
>ASTM won't correct its decades-old error in The Code...I've tried for almost
>15-years. If you haven't seen my posted-today list, Vertical Installation is
>so good that it's not required to be taped and mudded and is at its full level
>of fire protection upon installation.
drywall. What the stories don't tell is in many cases there is no
"fire blocking" so when fire gets behind the drywall it's like a
blowtotch. No difference between horizontal and vertical.
Iggy
Vertical's seam is 100% backed and the full panel's entire perimeter edges are
as well. However, a Horizontal seam only has a 1-1/2" support every 14-1/2"s.
That's only about 10% of a seam that's backed. And, no-one does nor would
waste the time to properly put any back-blocking behind the seam, which should
be required.
>
I can kick and hammer a Vertical seam and nothing happens. But, with
Horizontal I can just moderately lean against it to deflect it open and
completely crack the seam open and loose. I've heard your point of better
seam-hiding before and frankly I've only rarely witnessed it. I use just a 10"
knife on my seams and then lightly sand with a block or pole sander's plate.
No gaps, totally flat and entirely invisible, always.
>
You might enjoy My List. It's here, at the end/bottom:
https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/installing-drywall-318143-.htm
cl...@snyder.on.ca
"drying" compound just used to finish, the joint won't separate when
you lean on it. Dutabond 45 or durabobd 90 is made for that
application. Use it carefully because it is hellishly hard to sand -
it cures like concrete or plaster of paris, rather than drying like
"drywall mud". It is also 100% fire resistant - better than the
drywall itself.
This is what I meant by "properly installed"
If you want full fire rated, install 1 layer vetically with screws,
not mudded - then install the second layer horizontal , preferably
with adhesive, and mud.
Commonly done on "shared" walls in wood-framed multi-unit residential
buildings as a "fire break"
Iggy
purposely didn't even address your "proper installation". Because, now you're
talking about specialty products and much more difficult practices being
NEEDED to rather poorly try to match Vertical's performance on every level.
And still, you're left with Butt Humps instead of flat walls. I even see
"pros" using Butt-Boards to seam between studs (floating hack-work). Absurdly
ridiculous!
>
I realize I may not bring you over from the dark side. But, why fix and patch
shoddy work with more steps and specialty products when you can just do it
simple, right and quick the first time with basic off-the-shelf products that
are available everywhere? Again, a 90% un-backed seam will never compare to
100% backed seam. Even in fire tests, you'll immediately notice the tape and
mud goes almost immediately and is non-existent anywhere at the end of the
fire test. I think you should give Vertical a try next time around.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to clare, Iggy wrote:
>Yep, I somewhat agree. However, that's why I came up with The List and
>purposely didn't even address your "proper installation". Because, now you're
>talking about specialty products and much more difficult practices being
>NEEDED to rather poorly try to match Vertical's performance on every level.
>And still, you're left with Butt Humps instead of flat walls. I even see
>"pros" using Butt-Boards to seam between studs (floating hack-work). Absurdly
>ridiculous!
>>
>I realize I may not bring you over from the dark side. But, why fix and patch
>shoddy work with more steps and specialty products when you can just do it
>simple, right and quick the first time with basic off-the-shelf products that
>are available everywhere?
store? And you are saying "drywall compound" isn't a "specialty
product"?
And you are saying my joints and installation are not as good or as
solid as yours? I have NEVER has a drywall seam crack - and I don't
have issues trying to get the drywall screws into the 2X4 withoit
tearing out the edge of the drywall. I can keep EVERY screw a minimum
of 2 inches from the edge except the ones at the end of the panel if
my poanel is shorter than my wall. I can buy my drywall the size I
need - 8,9, 10, or 12 feet long - so in MOST rooms, on MOST walls
there is no vertical joint at all that needs to be butted on a 2X4.
Sure makes joints a whole lot simpler when there is just one straight
line around the room, and a few corners.
>Again, a 90% un-backed seam will never compare to
>100% backed seam. Even in fire tests, you'll immediately notice the tape and
>mud goes almost immediately and is non-existent anywhere at the end of the
>fire test. I think you should give Vertical a try next time around.
SHOULD be done, and how much simpler it is Do the ceiling first, with
the long edge at right angles to the natural light or in line with the
line of sight. Then install the top sheet on the walls, lenthwise - so
you get the tapered edge of tje eall panel meeting the tapered edge of
the ceiling panel along the line of site. When mudded, the joint is
straight and considtent, and virtually invisible. Then cut the bottom
panel to the correct size to fit between the floor and the top panel,
leaving about half an inch space at the floor. Jack the panel into
place and screw it down. You now have 2 tapered edges together to mud
and tape. Absolutely no simpler way to make an excellent drywall job.
Using setting compound, the joint is structurally sound and dry in
less than an hour - and the thin skim of "drywall mud" required to
finish the joint dries quickly - unlike a thick bed of muh that
requires 18 hours or more to fully harden, particularly 0n a humid
day. You can rock, mud, and sand a room in an 8 hour day this way -
and even prime it before you go home for supper. It can be painted
before midnight - and it WILL NOT CTACK.
Old Johann finished the mud joint with a sponge, and it required
almost no sanding at all. When I do it, I still need to sand a bit
more, but not nearly as much as when doing it "the old way".
No issues with where the vertical joints meet the ceiling/wall
interface either - dead straight joints, all around the room.
Tekkie®
on horizontol or vertical installation or mudding.
I also think Iggy is your NYM shifting troll buddy.
--
Tekkie
Iggy
Horizontal "Master" or otherwise with pre-mixed and right out of an
un-re-mixed bucket...EVERYTIME. I've done it repeatedly in end-result and
actual time spent doing the job. I alone have matched 2-man crews a dozen
times and then kicked and punched both of our seams, to show them their crap
work.
>
I agree that your and Johann's completely unnecessary efforts and products can
match the "look" of Vertical, but you don't have fire-tight full-depth seams.
AND, you too don't fill-in the floor bevel that you CREATED and just happily
screw the person doing the baseboards, to finish your work before they can
even start theirs. Wonderful.
>
"Master", really? Flexible seams (once the DuraBond's overcome), Humps (in
longer than panel walls), doesn't finish the job (floor bevel), must rely on
specialty products (instead of structure) and plays with people's lives by
significantly reducing fire protection (the only reason drywall's used)? Oh
yeah AND, screw the painter too. Those ceiling corners can't be cut-in with a
roller, because they're almost always less than 90-degrees rather than more.
>
I DON'T piss-off the Carpenter, Electrician and Painter with my work and
actually receive compliments for how easy their work was and how they had the
time to get their work perfect, because everything was solid and flat and
beveled the right way in the corners. Please reconsider your Vertical
Years...only then were you any good.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Iggy
keep doing what you like.
Iggy
First, look up the meaning of troll, then use it correctly. I came after
no-one. I simply defended myself and held a discussion. I answer the trolls,
but they never answer me. Clare wasn't a troll and simply wanted an
explanation and insight from the side that does it right and in the best
interests of all.
Vic Smith
I can get 10 or 12 footers into the end bedrooms, but forget about getting them in the
middle bedroom or the bathroom. No way.
ItsJoanNotJoann
>
> replying to Tekkie®, Iggy wrote:
>
> First, look up the meaning of troll, then use it correctly. I came after
> no-one. I simply defended myself and held a discussion. I answer the trolls,
> but they never answer me. Clare wasn't a troll and simply wanted an
> explanation and insight from the side that does it right and in the best
> interests of all.
>
to have. Everything you're replying to is AT LEAST 7 years old.
Iggy
few things. I made a compliment here. And the others I added correct, relevant
and expanding content to, for those asking themselves a similar question that
happen upon the threads. You trolling me like I'm doing something illegal or
detrimental IN THE SLIGHTEST is the ignorance I can't comprehend.
>
You clearly don't want discussion and you clearly don't have anything to add
to the answers and you clearly think everyone else died and should be
memorialized with the thread being retired and removed from the internet.
>
Do you want your legacy of contribution to be a bunch of incomplete answers?
Do you want threads to die and to make it illegal if someone new comes along
to expound upon the answers or to ask additional questions (where the original
Asker dropped the ball)? Do you just hate interactive websites and absolutely
won't ever respond to anything positively nor cordially, if it's on an old
thread? Please get back to me when you make up your mind about what you're
doing here or how the site can be better...you aren't helping currently.
--
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
feel superior or something - don't waste your breath on them.
As for myself - I appreciated your discussion - and the other
constructive intelligent replies - thanks for resurrecting the old
thread. ... except that - I'm so torn and conflicted by the great
arguements for both sides that I'll probably hang my drywall
oblique from here-on-in.
John T.
Iggy
Vertical's the only right way, but oblique would make you a true Artisan to
the people that die from the same Horizontal-like poor fire-protection. If you
didn't catch it, I BURIED Horizontal's laughable 3 benefits here:
https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/installing-drywall-318143-.htm
Tekkie®
about the fire protection aspect of any taping method of drywall. I purport
that there are numerous entry points other than drywall joints. The BEST
protection is to have a working smoke and carbon monoxide detector.
I haven't read your quoted article and don't intend to because I am not
signing up for HomemoanerHubless. If you wish to post it on a readily
available site let me know and I will read it as I will your information
from the NFPA site.
--
Tekkie
Iggy
cookies and I romp around with no problem on a 10-year old computer. The
link's right there and free for anyone to enjoy, just scroll to the bottom.
Yes, please do give me any links you think are more useful, much appreciated.
Smoke detectors are great, but not much help when the fire's spreading every
second and not being contained as designed and intended.
Tekkie®
>
ignore my logic. You have one more chance...
--
Tekkie
Oren
wrote:
When he stated hanging drywall had to be vertical, I knew he was an
asshat. When I was discharged from the Army in '72, I hung tons of
sheets. I finally found a government job :-))
The freak is telling you; only its way is best and absolute.
Iggy
I got it right this time. It's just my explained list, it's not an "article".
The link is:
https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/installing-drywall-318143-.htm under
the question title of Installing Drywall, then just scroll to the bottom or to
the last comment.
>
Again, that's
https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/installing-drywall-318143-.htm and
it's totally free access to anyone...no registering, no signing-in, no
signing-up, no email input, no cookie requirement and no parental blocking.
>
FYI, the perfection of Vertical is that it doesn't AT ALL need nor rely on
tape and mud to achieve its full fire protection potential, tape and mud is
ONLY for beautification. Horizontal on the other hand, MUST be taped and
mudded to achieve JUST initial fire protection. Horizontal destroys the first
line of defense and is much worse than unsealed-to-the-drywall or poorly fit
electrical boxes.