How do I make a storm door close when the window (not screen) is on it?
trader-of-some-jacks
meaning that the open part of the door is exposed to the breezes much
of the time, and this winter, we've had some very windy days (40-70
mph).
The wind can damage the door if it flings it open too violently, and
this of course scares and concerns me.
But when my main front door is shut, and the storm door has the
windows (not screens) in, the door won't shut all the way until it
clicks firmly closed and latched. The air resistance as it closes,
especially the final couple inches into the doorframe, slows the door
enough that it won't shut.
I don't have a problem in the summer - with the screens in, the door
closes and latches, even with the main front door closed.
I don't have a problem in the winter when the door closes and the main
front door is open (such as when I'm entering the house).
The only problem is in the common scenario where people are leaving
the house through the front door. They pull the main door shut, then
the storm door won't close to latching.
I've played with the resistance/closing speed settings in the storm
door, and even when I can make it slam hard with the main front door
open, it won't close to latching with the main front door closed.
So what am I supposed to do, without just leaving the screens in even
during the winter, if I want the door to properly close in the winter?
Oren
Do you have a door closure device? (looks like a shock absorber)
Might need adjustment or replacement.
Grandpa Chuck
<trad...@dontspam.net> wrote:
If a simply storm door spring doesn't do the job the a hydraulic
cylinder probably will, plus the tension is pretty easy to adjust.
--
Grandpa Chuck
-ô¿ô-
~
Please grant me:
the serenity to accept the people I cannot change
the courage to change the one that I can
the wisdom to know that it is me
trader-of-some-jacks
>Do you have a door closure device? (looks like a shock absorber)
>
>Might need adjustment or replacement.
Yes, I've played with that using each possible permutation:
- a "winter" and "summer" setting for how the shaft mounts to the door
(two holes for mounting, one for with screen, one for with storm
window)
- a screw-adjusted tension setting
On the most tension setting, the door will just slam when there's no
air resistance (like when the front door is open). But with the front
door closed, the storm door will come flying closed, then slow down
and stop short of latching into the door frame.
Since I can set the closure device to essentially slam the door with
no shock absorbed "bounces" back, I assume that the door is closing
pretty hard. Just not hard enough to latch.
Of course if I expose some screens on the door (the storm windows
retract into the door frame), that cuts the insulating ability of the
door. Same if I remove weather stripping or the door sweep.
Norminn
I used to leave the window open a tiny bit, just to equalize more
quickly. That door
that would also be ripped open by the wind because there were no
windbreaks. We put up two
panels of wood lattice, one on either side. It wasn't very deep but did
the trick and stopped
the door from being ripped from the frame. The lattice was attached to
4x4 posts. Another
kind of windbreak, even landscaping, would probably work. I was
surprised the lattice was
so effective.
mm
<trad...@dontspam.net> wrote:
>My front storm door is mounted so that the hinges are on the east,
>meaning that the open part of the door is exposed to the breezes much
>of the time, and this winter, we've had some very windy days (40-70
>mph).
>
I think this is a troll, and I'm not going to play.
Oren
With a hydraulic cylinder; it should close and then snug the door to
the latch. (no portion of the door dragging on the sill?) Hinges are
tight, etc....?
I can only suggest the cylinder is leaking ...replace..
Nate Nagel
I've been doing the same dance; I've come to the conclusion that it's
simply not possible to have the storm door latch itself with the inside
door closed. I have not found a closer with enough grunt to pull it
shut, it's due to the air building up between the doors - it slams
nicely with the inside door open.
nate
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trader-of-some-jacks
wrote:
I don't mind at all that you can't be bothered to offer a constructive
suggestion to the very real problem I posted about my storm door not
closing and latching under some circumstances.
Hope you don't mind at all that I can't solve at least two very real
problems that you seem to have: that you're a judgmental jerk; and
that, with roughly 450 usenet posts in the first 70 days or so of this
year (according to google), you seem to have considerably more idle
time on your hands than a worthwhile person would.
Don't let my storm door hit ya where the good Lord split ya.
aemeijers
overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
once the striker cycles.
For commercial doors, they have 2-stage closers, that keep pulling once
main swing action is done. Never seen one for residential. People with
problem doors usually self-train to take the extra second to force door
latched when they go through it.
Or if you like hillbilly engineering, there are all sorts of tricks you
can do with magnets...
(Sudden mental flashes of how old VW Beetle doors worked, at least until
the rust holes in the floor happened. New ones were <tight>, and
cracking a window did help. Probably not many left in that condition.)
aem sends...
JIMMIE
> Nate Nagel wrote:
> > Oren wrote:
> >> On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:09:25 -0400, trader-of-some-jacks
>
> - Show quoted text -
My storm doors close,no problem, They have two closers on them, one on
the top and one on the bottom of the door.
Several years ago I bought a door that came like this and now I always
add a second closer if the door comes with just one.
Jimmie
mm
<trad...@dontspam.net> wrote:
>On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:24:02 -0400, mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 19:06:07 -0400, trader-of-some-jacks
>><trad...@dontspam.net> wrote:
>>
>>>My front storm door is mounted so that the hinges are on the east,
>>>meaning that the open part of the door is exposed to the breezes much
>>>of the time, and this winter, we've had some very windy days (40-70
>>>mph).
>>>
>>I think this is a troll, and I'm not going to play.
>
>I don't mind at all that you can't be bothered to offer a constructive
>suggestion to the very real problem I posted about my storm door not
>closing and latching under some circumstances.
>
>Hope you don't mind at all that I can't solve at least two very real
>problems that you seem to have: that you're a judgmental jerk; and
"A very real problem"?
Maybe you're not trolling, but it is clear that if you increase the
closing force of your closer to allow for the wind, it will close too
strongly when there is no wind. And furthermore your closer wasn't
strong enough to do the first half anyhow.
So it's obvious that the solution during windy periods is to close the
door with your hand. Is that so hard? Since you haven't said a word
about that possibility, I think your being a troll was likely. Maybe
still is.
RicodJour
>
> I've been doing the same dance; I've come to the conclusion that it's
> simply not possible to have the storm door latch itself with the inside
> door closed. I have not found a closer with enough grunt to pull it
> shut, it's due to the air building up between the doors - it slams
> nicely with the inside door open.
Yep, that's the reason. I have two hydraulic closers on my front
storm and it closes just fine - unless the interior door is closed
first. The storm door is essentially trapping air and trying to
compress it if the door seals are tight all the way around. Adjusting
the cylinders doesn't help if the seal is tight - if you adjust them
enough to close them when the interior door is closed, the storm slams
when the interior door is not closed. If you're inside, let the storm
door close first then close the interior door. From the outside is
more problematic - you have to push the storm door closed, or
sacrifice some of the weathertightness so the storm door seal will
allow some air to escape. Aemeijers idea of a one way air escape
valve in the storm door would be a simple retrofit and makes a lot of
sense.
R
dadiOH
Close it by hand.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
> Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
> overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
> a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
> hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
> it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
> open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
> maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
> once the striker cycles.
You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba regulator.
It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a quarter that
has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem through a 1/8" hole
in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against the the outside. You
drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide portion of the valve to allow
the air to actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an overpressure
exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to relieve it.
Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the inner
door.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
Joe
>snip<
>
> My storm doors close,no problem, They have two closers on them, one on
> the top and one on the bottom of the door.
>
> Several years ago I bought a door that came like this and now I always
> add a second closer if the door comes with just one.
>
> Jimmie
That's the best solution of all...been there, done that. Many of the
better storm doors are much heavier than they were some years ago.
Bought and installed a new better type Larson a few months ago, and
IIRC, the directions suggested an additional closer, thus eliminating
the ugly safety chain set up. The two closer set up operates the same
as a single as far as speed but the final pull is firmer with two
since that mode is solely spring action without air assist. HTH
Joe
z
> > On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:09:25 -0400, trader-of-some-jacks
>
> - Show quoted text -
same here. just about every door i've seen has the same problem. my
latest installation i put in a lot of time getting it installed just
right; it had two closing cylinders; still won't do it with the
windows in. i can detect what they're going for; just after the period
of cushioned slow closing, just before the cylinder is completely
pulled in, there's a short period of uncushioned closing for like half
an inch which i gather is supposed to snap the door closed on the
latch. damned if i can make that happen though.
Jeff Wisnia
> aemeijers wrote:
>
>>Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
>>overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
>>a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
>>hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
>>it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
>>open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
>>maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
>>once the striker cycles.
>
>
>
> You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba regulator.
> It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a quarter that
> has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem through a 1/8" hole
> in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against the the outside. You
> drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide portion of the valve to allow
> the air to actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
> the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an overpressure
> exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to relieve it.
Have you actually observed that scheme working?
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
aemeijers
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
>
>> aemeijers wrote:
>>
>>> Sounds like a market niche to me- an air valve for the door to vent the
>>> overpressure, but fall back shut once door latches? A little flapper in
>>> a tube, light enough that the moving door and air pressure buildup would
>>> hold it open, but heavy enough to fall back shut, and with a ring around
>>> it on outside, so that venturi effect of passing breeze wouldn't suck it
>>> open? There could be a screw-adjusted spring to adjust the tension. Or
>>> maybe build it right into the latch- a vent tube that would be closed
>>> once the striker cycles.
>>
>>
>>
>> You could install an exhaust valve from the second stage of any scuba
>> regulator. It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the
>> sixe of a quarter that has a central stem also made of rubber. You
>> poke the stem through a 1/8" hole in the storm door so that the valve
>> rests flat against the the outside. You drill a small 1/4" hole or
>> two underneath the wide portion of the valve to allow the air to
>> actually escape; the center hole is already occupied by the stem of
>> the valve. The wide portion of the valve covers the holes until an
>> overpressure exists; then it blows out of the way temporarily to
>> relieve it.
>
> Have you actually observed that scheme working?
>
remember how to make.
The logical solutions are, of course, user training to hand-close it,
maybe a second closer, and definitely one of those spring-limited safety
chains that at least will keep it from being torn off the house for awhile.
aem sends...
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:
>> regulator. It's a flat thin flexible silicon rubber disk about the sixe of a
>> quarter that has a central stem also made of rubber. You poke the stem
>> through a 1/8" hole in the storm door so that the valve rests flat against
>> the the outside. You drill a small 1/4" hole or two underneath the wide
>> portion of the valve to allow the air to actually escape; the center hole is
>> already occupied by the stem of the valve. The wide portion of the valve
>> covers the holes until an overpressure exists; then it blows out of the way
>> temporarily to relieve it.
>
> Have you actually observed that scheme working?
Hell, no. I do what I suggested at the end of the post... wait for it to latch
before I close the inside door. I just posted that other stuff for those who
are inclined to do everything the hard way.
>>
>> Or you could just wait until the storm door closed before you closed the
>> inner door.
As I said....
Marilyn & Bob
news:NPOBj.6254$z13.950@trnddc06...
If the inner door is wood, how about putting in a spring loaded mail slot in
that door. When the storm door closes, it would push in the mail slot
allowing the trapped air to enter the house and the storm door to close.
--
Peace,
BobJ
z
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
ah.... seal both doors and the chamber in between airtight. attach a
vacuum pump to the interdoor volume to pull a vacuum. will not only
shut the screen door tight, but will provide maximum insulation, more
than if you left the air in between.
RicodJour
>
> ah.... seal both doors and the chamber in between airtight. attach a
> vacuum pump to the interdoor volume to pull a vacuum. will not only
> shut the screen door tight, but will provide maximum insulation, more
> than if you left the air in between.
If there's enough a vacuum you wouldn't be able to open the door - the
ultimate security system and it's invisible! ;)
R
Tomes
Here is a thought that I have not seen posted yet. My storm door did not
want to finish closing, not because of the air pressure, but because there
was resistance where the latch thingy slides by before it snaps into its
hole. I sprayed it with lithium grease (both the pointy latch thingy and
the door jamb where it slides against it). I find that I need to reapply
the lithium grease about every 6 months or so. Now it just slides right
closed every time.
Tomes
Rain
I agree. I'm having the same problem with my Andersen screen door too. I
replaced the closer and it didn't solve the issue. I can't add a second
closer because the screen rolls up into the top of the door.. I'm very
frustrated. Hinges are good and tight.. Door is level..
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-do-i-make-a-storm-door-close-when-the-window-not-screen-293414-.htm
drepa...@gmail.com
Ed Pawlowski
> I’ve installed about 10 this year and had to go back and adjust 5 that wouldn’t close properly I adjusted the seal at the bottom of the door to allow air to flow through worked fine but customers did complain about seeing light under the door
>
reason to have a storm door.
dog lover
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-do-i-make-a-storm-door-close-when-the-window-not-screen-293414-.htm
dog lover
dog lover
Rod Speed
> Wow you're a real winner. I have the same issue. If you have nothing to
> add but stupid comments then you're the real troll. Get a life.
Rod Speed
> Impossible to that when your leaving your house.
Peeler
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
--
Keema Nam addressing nym-shifting senile Rodent:
"You are now exposed as a liar, as well as an ignorant troll."
"MID: <0001HW.22B654E700...@news.giganews.com>"
Peeler
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
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MID: <ps10v9$uo2$1...@gioia.aioe.org>
Ed Pawlowski
> Wow you're a real winner. I have the same issue. If you have nothing to
> add but stupid comments then you're the real troll. Get a life.
>
saving two bucks. Years ago I had a nice sideline business selling and
installing doors and never had complaints.
Marilyn Manson
one at the top and one at the bottom. It closes with a solid click of the latch but
without slamming.
dog lover
Dean Hoffman
Marilyn Manson
> Apparently you have not done your research plus you offer nothing. Where's your link to good ones? I am reading how professionals have this issue too. It's about 50/50 with them.
you are responding to. No quoted text. Who is the "you" that you are
chastising?
Dan Espen
year old post.
--
Dan Espen