Thanks,
John
Seems like the material itself did not fail. So did the contractor nail it
properly? A roofing nail every 16" of the correct length? Do you have
insurance? If so I would let them handle it and the contractor. Otherwise
I would be reading all the fine print in the contract and warrantee and
trying to prove it was incorrectly installed. What is the wall sheathing
like? Unless the contractor installed the sheathing he may not be
responsible if it can't hold the nails.
Thanks for the reply. If the siding were nailed into the wall studs with
the proper length nails, it shouldn't matter what the wall sheathing was
like, right?
how much to repair $$$???
I doubt if you are going to find may applications where the siding is
all nailed into studs. It would be pure luck. Sheathing should do it.
Let's fact it. You home was damaged by the wind. 65 mph is enough to
do damage. Call you insurance company.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
My vinyl siding was nailed up 21 years ago. Since then, I have done two
alterations to the outside which required the removal of the siding.
I had to use a claw to pull the 1" roofing nails out, which were
installed haphazardly in the 1/2" plywood sheathing without regard to
the location of studs. I live on the top of a hill which gets its share
of high winds, including a few hurricanes and at least one tornado over
those 21 years. No siding has ever blown off or even came loose.
>
>> The siding was installed about
>>
>>> 2 1/5 years ago and the work was warranteed against all material and
>>> labor defects for 25 years. The contractor is claiming that the siding
>>> coming loose was "obviously" not from a work defect as the wind gusts
>>> were so high - he was claiming 100 to 200 mph which is a bunch of BS. He
>>> says that my homeowners insurance should pay for it. My question is, can
>>> anyone refer me to any kind of code or standard for installation of vinyl
>>> siding specifying what kind of wind speeds it should hold up to without
>>> coming lose from the house? I'm tired of being jerked around.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
"John Richards" <jric...@twcny.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ojNRf.9288$Da7....@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
A piece of siding in one of the two areas pulled loose within a year of the
installation and the contractor nailed it back up. Now, after 2 1/2 years,
siding in the same area and also in another area were pulled completely off
the house. I'm sure the heavy winds were responsible for the siding being
pulled off, but my problem is that there was very little similar damage to
other vinyl clad houses in the neighborhood (most of which were built with
1/2 in OSB) or in the general area, but mine sustained considerable damage
that seems out of line with what happened in the surrounding area. I
suspect that when the new siding was installed that it was not nailed to the
studs as I had assumed, but just through the foamboard and into the
Thermoply and that is why the nails pulled out. I am currently trying to
find out if there are any local codes addressing the installation of vinyl
siding over Thermoply and if there is, and the contractor didn't install the
siding according to code, I will persue the matter, otherwise I will try to
have it taken care of through insurance.
I am putting a lot of time and energy into this rather than just relying on
insurance because I feel I spent good money to have a job done right and if
it wasn't I think it is up to the contractor to make it right. Besides, if
everyone relies on insurance to correct poor workmansip by contractors,
everyones insurance rates will go up - also I would have to pay a $250
deductable.
Thanks to those who commented,
John
"Art" <begunaNOS...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:2uXRf.12769$S25....@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Do you know the manufacturer of the siding you got?
They've probably got installation instructions. Get
those, and compare them to what you actually got.
While you're at it, send pictures to the MF,
and see if they have any theories.
> A piece of siding in one of the two areas pulled loose within a year of the
> installation and the contractor nailed it back up.
I think the simple answer to your problem is
in places where the siding has come lose, use
screws instead of nails. Deck screws should do.
I've founds nails and screws in my siding, not sure
why they used nails in some places and screws in others.
It's pretty much impossible for the installer to put the
nails or screws into the studs and I don't think it is
necessary. If the nails went in deep enough to hit a stud,
they could also find your plumbing and wiring.
I'd avoid deck screws, the underside of the flat head (cone shaped)
tends to cause the vinyl to distort and the head may slip out thru
the slot. Secondly, most deck screws have at least 1/2" of no-thread,
near the head, which means it won't grip sheathing that well.
There's a variety of screw that consists of a hex (not socket!) head,
with integral washer. One variety (self-drilling/tapping with a rubber
washer) is used for sheet steel roofing.
IIRC, you need a 5/16" socket driver and you can buy the screws by the
pound from many places. They're a bit more expensive than deck screws,
but, they don't need to be anywhere near as long. You just want 'em
galvanized.
I think they're called "self-tapping screws" if you buy them as blister
packs.
Or, they may be called sheet metal roofing screws (you don't need the washer type)
Use those instead of flat heads.
They're _great_ for siding.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
>According to Dan Espen <dan...@MORE.mk.SPAMtelcordia.com>:
>> "John Richards" <jric...@twcny.rr.com> writes:
>>
>> > A piece of siding in one of the two areas pulled loose within a year of the
>> > installation and the contractor nailed it back up.
>
>> I think the simple answer to your problem is
>> in places where the siding has come lose, use
>> screws instead of nails. Deck screws should do.
>
>I'd avoid deck screws, the underside of the flat head (cone shaped)
>tends to cause the vinyl to distort and the head may slip out thru
>the slot. Secondly, most deck screws have at least 1/2" of no-thread,
>near the head, which means it won't grip sheathing that well.
The latter isn't a problem in this case, since OP says the
siding is going in over foam-board insulation.
according to www.vinylsiding.org/install/started.htm
you should use #8 pan-head screws.
My guess is the Ryland installation worked with their crappy foam sheathing
because they could see the studs and some of the nails went into the studs
on purpose. When the foam board went up, they did not align it with the
studs and just nailed away. You got screwed. Even so, you might want to
report it to your insurance company just in case you cannot resolve it.
Usually there is a deadline. But I suspect all of the siding needs to come
down, along with the foam, and reinstalled correctly. That would not be
covered by insurance. You might call you state license board and file a
complaint. Same thing with BBB. May be a waste of effort but some licensing
boards do work. Also try the state attorney general's offfice. I would do
it all.
"John Richards" <jric...@twcny.rr.com> wrote in message
news:reYRf.18107$jf2....@twister.nyroc.rr.com...