Type of paint for bathroom walls and ceiling
Myrna
some help. I had wall paper for a long time. After removing the paper
in one of the baths, we found that mildew (orange - is this mildew?)
was growing on the ceiling. In this room the ceiling is shiny which I
think is not the right thing. Not sure if removal of the paper had
anything to do with this.
In the other bath, I had water damage on the ceiling. This ceiling is
done in flat. It took a long time (over 10 years) for the damage to
occur and then the paint became crazed.
I've read that bathrooms should not be done in flat paint but I'm not
sure what is recommended. I don't like when the walls look shiny. I've
picked a Home Depot Behr paint color. We've had good luck with this
brand in other rooms. I know Benjamin Moore is supposed to be a better
paint and we've used that a lot over the years. But the cost has gotten
out of sight.
So I am looking for guidance on ceiling paint as well as wall paint in
bathrooms that do not have ventilation fans. I don't plan to install
this either.
Joseph Meehan
Good paint is expensive and worth every penny. Keep that in mind.
I like a semi gloss. While different brands use a lot of the same names
for different glosses, you really can't compare them as they are slightly
different.
You might want to see if Consumer Reports has done a report lately on
paints. You library should have back issues.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
jay.c...@gmail.com
stains with regular paint and the stains came back. I then did one
thick coat of Killz primer and then painted over it. It's been fine
since.
PipeDown
"Myrna" <myrn...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1136577626.1...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I found that dark colors mixed in the "deep base" tend to lighten up when
they get wet but darken to normal when they dry. I used dutch boy premium
in satin and hope the dark color choice and low sheen won't be a problem
later. I am only half using that bath now since the shower tiling is not
complete yet.
For the cieling I used the dutch boy texture meduim rolled on with a thick
napp roller and sponged on the edges. It seems to stand up well and has a
sandy texture (not so gloppy like the Behr textures) that is much more
attractive than the popcorn that was removed. This paint is acrylic and
stands up like semi gloss but has a sheen like flat because of the sand.
Norminn
> HI - I'm about to paint two bathrooms and before I buy paint I need
> some help. I had wall paper for a long time. After removing the paper
> in one of the baths, we found that mildew (orange - is this mildew?)
> was growing on the ceiling. In this room the ceiling is shiny which I
> think is not the right thing. Not sure if removal of the paper had
> anything to do with this.
>
> In the other bath, I had water damage on the ceiling. This ceiling is
> done in flat. It took a long time (over 10 years) for the damage to
> occur and then the paint became crazed.
Our bath was like that and I knew the condo above us had had a water
leak because I did the painting when the place was sold about 5 years
ago. I scraped, spackled and sanded, put on primer and two coats of
paint - also had a few rusty nail heads that I ground down and primed.
About six months ago and it looks fine. Gotta be sure your bad spot is
not a continuing leak.
>
> I've read that bathrooms should not be done in flat paint but I'm not
> sure what is recommended. I don't like when the walls look shiny. I've
> picked a Home Depot Behr paint color. We've had good luck with this
> brand in other rooms. I know Benjamin Moore is supposed to be a better
> paint and we've used that a lot over the years. But the cost has gotten
> out of sight.
>
> So I am looking for guidance on ceiling paint as well as wall paint in
> bathrooms that do not have ventilation fans. I don't plan to install
> this either.
>
I've done my own painting for many years, have tried inexpensive paints
a couple of times, and always go back to Ben Moore. Other good brands,
such as Sher-Williams, Pratt-Lambert, would be just fine. Good paint is
expensive for a good reason. If a paint job lasts about 10 years, the
difference in price is of little consequence. If you paint every year
or two, use the cheap stuff because the surfaces will soon be so loaded
with paint that what you slap on will not matter.
I've removed paper that had some mildew under it. Repaired and
repainted a bath such as what you describe a few months ago. I have
found paper that had a good deal of mildew under it and could always
trace it to intrusion along the seams. Wash well with a bit of bleach,
rinse, dry, and all is well. When I papered the bath, I put a very fine
line of silicone caulk along bottom of paper and the side that ends next
to shower so it doesn't start peeling from condensation. Also put a
timer on the exhaust fan so it can be left on to dry out the room after
each shower.
Semi-gloss is usually recommended for bath and kitchen because it is
easier to clean. I dislike the prep work, but am a fanatic about doing
it right because I want the paint job to hold up. I use only alkyd semi
for bath and kitchen; a tad more work to clean up but it lasts and
lasts. The longest I've let a decorating job go - 20 years - was a
kitchen that had no exhaust fan. Got greasy and smoky, and I cleaned
about every year with Fantastic. The paint was Ben Moore and probably
good for another 20 years but I moved. Latex on doors and trim is a
b---- to repaint because you can't sand out dings and globbies - the
paint just peels and rolls. Alkyd takes wear and tear a whole lot
better and is more impervious to moisture.
Myrna
some help. I had wall paper for a long time. After removing the paper
in one of the baths, we found that mildew (orange - is this mildew?)
was growing on the ceiling. In this room the ceiling is shiny which I
think is not the right thing. Not sure if removal of the paper had
anything to do with this.
In the other bath, I had water damage on the ceiling. This ceiling is
done in flat. It took a long time (over 10 years) for the damage to
occur and then the paint became crazed.
I've read that bathrooms should not be done in flat paint but I'm not
nospambob
Qts from Sherwin Williams and wife insisted on HD as it was cheaper.
The Behr "paint" swatch went near the 3 Sherwin Williams swatches and
it was SAD to see how it failed. It would need about three coats to
match the intensity of the SW colors! Benefit was wife IS convinced
now to avoid Behr from HD.
Levon
"nospambob" <nosp...@vcoms.net> wrote in message
news:9apvr1trtijtprt6l...@4ax.com...
Banty
says...
OK, you think Ben Moore is too pricey, but I've been really happy with the Ben
Moore mildew-resistant specialty bathroom ceiling paint, and egsheel Ben Moore
custom paint color on the bathroom walls. (Most of the bathroom is white 4"
tile with a blue and green folk-flower trim all around at one level.) The paint
color is one shade more intense than the hallway, living room, and one bedroom
that it shares most of the sightlines with.
Don't use flat - but eggshell or semi-gloss is fine.
But why cheap out on the paint? It's significant amount of labor, and you'll be
looking at it and living with it for awhile. By my reckoning, the cost delta is
much less than the labor, etc., that goes into it (although I'm the labor for
painting and enjoy the task, I make decent money in my livelihood and put value
on my time!)
Banty