Lawnmower only runs with starting fluid?

[Ryan Peters]

My friends lawnmower will only run a few seconds after you spray
starting fluid
in the spark plug whole. Anybody knows what is wrong? The spark plug was
replaced. Thank you Ryan
ry...@c-zone.net

[Fish]

Spark is not your problem, but fuel delivery. But to help
you I need to know what engine you have. Give me the
numbers off of the cover above the spark plug and I can
talk you through this simple repair.
Fish

* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful

[son...@yahoo.com]

You don't say if your friend stores the mower without draining the
gas. There could be varnish build up in the carbarator. Make sure gas
is getting to the carbarator. If that is the case, you probably need
to take the carb apart and clean it.

I once got a mower working that was tossed by someone. The carb had a
build up of varnish. I had to actually scrape to get it off. I then
used a self gasket compound that you can get at any automotive store.

Alan

On Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:37:08 -0700, Ryan Peters <ry...@c-zone.net>
wrote:

[Daniel Hicks]

Ryan Peters wrote:
>
> My friends lawnmower will only run a few seconds after you spray
> starting fluid
> in the spark plug whole. Anybody knows what is wrong? The spark plug was
> replaced. Thank you Ryan
> ry...@c-zone.net

It's not getting enough gas.

[Scott R.]

If you keep using starter fluid on it you will ruin it as well. Engines
need three things to run. Gas, air, and spark. You can check the spark
plug by pulling it out of the engine. Hold the end of the plug (while
it's still connected to the wire) close to the engine block. Now have
someone pull the cord (or use the starter if it is electric start). You
should see a small spark jump between the plug end and the block. Also,
did you set the gap on the plug according to the manufacturers
directions? Other problems could be a blocked air filter (or something
clogged past the filter) or a block gas line (which could occur a couple
place). Like I said, gas, air, and spark. Eliminate these three things
as the culprit one at a time and you should find the problem. If not,
the engine might be shot in which case it might be more economical to
get a new one.

Scott R

[Fish]

Again, you have already determined the problem to be fuel
related, don't waste time or money worrying about spark
or compression, as if those were your problem your engine
would not run for a couple of seconds then die. But lay
off the ether, it will damage the engine. Let me know
what engine you have, and youwill probably be mowing
tomorrow.

[Fish]

Again, the problem has already been diagnosed as a fuel
problem, don't waste time and money worrying about spark
and compression. Also don't us the ether, it will damage
the engine eventually. Give me your engine numbers and you
could be mowing tomorrow.

[Default User]

Please post some more information.

Brand of engine? Horse power? Etc...

Might also have water in the gas.

Daniel Hicks wrote in message <397F7CA9...@ieee.org>...

[J. Wig]

Sounds like a hardened diaphragm....look under the carb where the gas gets
sucked into the carb. Happens when you leave gas in there too long. Probably
a 79 cent item if you do it yourself

John
Default User <def...@user.net> wrote in message
news:8lutn8$lv8$1...@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net...

[johnti...@gmail.com]

I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.

[bob_villain]

On Wednesday, June 29, 2016 at 8:44:55 PM UTC-5, johnti...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.

Yard Machine perhaps? Does it run if you keep priming it?

[hrho...@att.net]

Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cover off so there is no question about a plugged up gas tank cap? Have you checked to see that gas is getting to the carburetor from the gas tank?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:57:31 -0700 (PDT), hrho...@att.net wrote:

>Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cover off so there is no question about a plugged up gas tank cap? Have you checked to see that gas is getting to the carburetor from the gas tank?

I'm still betting he didn't get one of the passages in the carby
cleared out.

[Meanie]

On 6/29/2016 9:44 PM, johnti...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.
>

Bad diaphragm?

[pat]

On 06/29/2016 07:44 PM, johnti...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.

if your carb keeps falling off - ether titan down the bolts better or use some locktit on the threds

[bob_villain]

colon...is that you?

[Oren]

On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:44:51 -0700 (PDT), johnti...@gmail.com
wrote:

> I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.

Duct Tape?

[Oren]

On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 23:08:36 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> I'm still betting he didn't get one of the passages in the carby
>cleared out.

A clogged venturi might interrupt the fuel / air mix flow. Soak the
carb overnight in a basket kit and then spray them out.

OP sounded like his carb wouldn't stay on the block.

[Oren]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2016 05:44:17 -0400, Meanie <meani...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Bad diaphragm?

Cracked fuel line? The fix should be simple if the OP is handy.

[Micky]

On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:44:51 -0700 (PDT), johnti...@gmail.com
wrote:

>I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.

Some of the other suggestions are good, but also, How did you clean
out the gunk? The proper way is to disassemble the whole thing and
soak in parts cleaner.

A full-time motorcycle mechanic told me that because of safety rules,
the parts cleaner today isn't as strong as it was. I haven't verified
this in print, but I noticed it myself. When I was in my 20's, I'd
soak a carburetor and it would almost shine where it was under the
liquid, iirc for an hour or two. That didn't happen with my
motorcycle. Still soaking in the new stuff is better than just
putting cleaner in the gas tank, or soaking without disassembling.

With my motorscooter, whose symptom was pretty much like your
lawnmower, a friend talked me into buying a new carburetor. I haven't
installed it yet, but it "should" solve my problem. Sort of violated
my rule, since I didn't even try cleaning it, but the new one was
between 22 and 29 dollars, depending on the source. I'm not saying
one for you will be so cheap. Maybe, but this was made in China for a
chinese motorscooter, and maybe there was the advantage of fewer
models of carb than for lawnmowers. For 49/50cc engines, the
pictures look different but they might all fit and work all the
scooters of one size. I bought one that looks exactly like my current
one, based on pictures, of course, from the web, under 50cc
carburetor. Some or all of them fit a TaoTao. Not sure how specific
or general one would be to find the best match on yours.

[Micky]

On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:57:31 -0700 (PDT), hrho...@att.net wrote:

>Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cover off so there is no question about a plugged up gas tank cap? Have you checked to see that gas is getting to the carburetor from the gas tank?

Another good suggestion. I did all that of course before buying the
carb. I sucked on the carburetor hose that turned on external gas
valve, and gas came out. I even drained the carb bowl, which I
don't think lawnmower carbs facilitiate. The scooter had a valve at
the bottom of the carb and a hose going down to the bottom. I wonder
why they thought it worth so much effort. It was last fall, and I
think a bunch of gas came out, but iirc I connected the gas tank while
draining and expected to see a continuing stream, but I didn't so I
don't think the carb would accept new gas. Float problem maybe, just
needs cleaning, but I bought a new one.

OP, did you verify that your float was opening (and closing)?

OP, what did you do to empty the carb before cleaning it? How did you
clean it?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2016 05:44:17 -0400, Meanie <meani...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>On 6/29/2016 9:44 PM, johnti...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I have a yard master 140cc. I removed the carburetor and cleaned out the gunk but it will still not stay on.
>>
>
>Bad diaphragm?

Not likely to be a diaphragm carb - but it WOULD help if he gave us
more info.

Kinda shooting blind right now!!

[My 2 Cents]

On 6/29/2016 8:44 PM, johnti...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a yard master 140cc.

If it's this one...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Yard-Machines-21-in-140cc-OHV-Briggs-Stratton-Walk-Behind-Gas-Lawn-Mower-11A-B0BL729/205520067
then do this... you have to pull the main jet assembly apart to clean
it... these look like they are going to be a lot of trouble... no screen
like the old carbs had....here ya go...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mfUWBQXk4U

[Micky]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2016 12:51:12 -0400, Micky
<NONONObobb...@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:57:31 -0700 (PDT), hrho...@att.net wrote:
>
>>Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cover off so there is no question about a plugged up gas tank cap? Have you checked to see that gas is getting to the carburetor from the gas tank?
>
>Another good suggestion. I did all that of course before buying the
>carb. I sucked on the carburetor hose that turned on external gas
>valve, and gas came out.

No, not where I was sucking. Out of the third hose that normally went
to the carburetor.

[tullo...@gmail.com]

Thank you! I’ve cleaned the carb twice, new air filter, and new spark plug. I unscrewed the gas cap and it strayed right up. I was about to give up on this mower.

[jlt5...@gmail.com]

Briggs and Stratton 550ex series 140cc model09p702014f1

[Colonel Edmund J. Burke]

On 3/28/2020 5:57 PM, tullo...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thank you! I’ve cleaned the carb twice, new air filter, and new spark plug. I unscrewed the gas cap and it strayed right up. I was about to give up on this mower.
>

Asshole! I googled this months ago.

[Ethyl Gass]

On 3/29/20 12:28 PM, jlt5...@gmail.com wrote:
> Briggs and Stratton 550ex series 140cc model09p702014f1

I smell another carburetor clogged up from obama's ethanol gas.

Rebuild or replace.

[slate_leeper]

Or clogged fuel filter.



--
Protect your civil rights!
Let the politicians know how you feel.
Join or donate to the NRA today!
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Gun control is like trying to reduce drunk driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars.

[rosema...@gmail.com]

I know this thread was awhile ago, but I am having this problem, Briggs and Stratton engine serial number 140818-51-43913. Purchased used from Eq co. Carb problems. They keep saying water in the gas. But I just bought the “clear” gas and have added stabilizer. They took it in once and fixed it, I cannot afford it again. I have owned this thing three months and have had success mowing my lawn 3 times. What is the deal!? Halo!

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

On Mon, 22 Jun 2020 19:12:09 -0700 (PDT), rosema...@gmail.com
wrote:

Sorry - I can't determine the engine model from serial number -
perhaps the real experts can <?> From the rest of your description
you might be on a 14 HP riding mower or pushing a 3.5 HP mower.
.. what is " clear " gas ?
The repair guy fixes it and tells you there was water in the gas -
- maybe that really IS the problem ?
John T.

[trader_4]

On Monday, June 22, 2020 at 10:12:14 PM UTC-4, rosema...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this thread was awhile ago, but I am having this problem, Briggs and Stratton engine serial number 140818-51-43913. Purchased used from Eq co. Carb problems. They keep saying water in the gas. But I just bought the “clear” gas and have added stabilizer. They took it in once and fixed it, I cannot afford it again. I have owned this thing three months and have had success mowing my lawn 3 times. What is the deal!? Halo!

Disconnect the gas line from the carb with a bottle handy and see if gas
easily flows. If so, problem is likely the carb again. If you identify the
carb, there are carb rebuild kits on Ebay for $10 or less. They give you the
gaskets, needle valve, welch plugs, etc. They generally don't include the
gasket between the carb and manifold, if that's not in good condition you
need to order one of those. Take apart the carb, clean it out
with brake cleaner or similar, blow out all passages, a compressor helps
with that if you have it. When taking out the adjustment screws, count the
turns and put them back in to the same number of turns. There may be welch
plugs covering some openings, if you have the new ones from the kit,
carefully remove the old ones, clean, then install the new ones. You put
a little nail polish around the edge after to help seal it. Then it should
work. I would add gas stabilizer to the gas you are using and don't keep
it for longer than a month or so. There are youtube videos on all this to
help.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <haq3ff54j9d318u86...@4ax.com>,
hub...@ccanoemail.ca says...

>
> Sorry - I can't determine the engine model from serial number -
> perhaps the real experts can <?> From the rest of your description
> you might be on a 14 HP riding mower or pushing a 3.5 HP mower.
> .. what is " clear " gas ?
> The repair guy fixes it and tells you there was water in the gas -
> - maybe that really IS the problem ?
>
>

Seems that water in the gas or old gas is a standard answer.

I bought a new John Deere rider and it would go about 100 feet and the
engine would quit. I stopped in and asked the Deere people if there was
something that I may be doing wrong. He mentioined water in my gas. I
told him I did not think so. I had just bought a new gas can, stopped in
a station and filled it up and drove home and filled up the mower. Did
not see how gas could get any fresher than that.

Turned out it was a defective switch in the seat so they replaced the
seat.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

Defective fuel or fuel delivery problems would provide a
different set of symptoms - than an intermittent safety switch
cutting off the spark ... donch'ya think ?
eg: difficult starting ; sputtering before it stalls ;
John T.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <aq24ffhil7rj4v0vt...@4ax.com>,
hub...@ccanoemail.ca says...

>
>
> Defective fuel or fuel delivery problems would provide a
> different set of symptoms - than an intermittent safety switch
> cutting off the spark ... donch'ya think ?
> eg: difficult starting ; sputtering before it stalls ;
> John T.
>
>
>

It probably would, however as the mower was new I did not really care to
locate the problem. Just let the dealer worry about that. The mower
did have a 90 day no questions asked and I could have simply told them
to take it back and give me my money back. However I would still need a
mower. So they picked it up took it to the shop, repaired it and
brought it back all at their expense.


One thing related to that. Around 1970 a friend bought a 1956 or so
Chevy station wagon. We took it out for about an hour test ride. Every
thing was fine. The next night it was doing about like my lawn mower.
Run about half a mile and the engine would stop. We looked it over and
I noticed the gas sediment bowl was backwards. We turned it around and
it ran fine ever after. Not sure why it ran fine the first night and
would quit the next with that backward sediment bowl. I thing that is
what it was called back then insted of a fuel filter.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

My one experience with < old school car > dirty fuel filter was :
: start fine
: idle fine
: rev-the engine several times - smooth.
: take off driving - no problem at city speeds
Highway speed for ~ a minute - cough sputter stall.
The added flow-rate would draw the contaminent/particles
up to block the filter - my theory ..
I haven't had any auto fuel filter problems for decades.
John T.

[Bob F]

Or, on the highway, you finally reached the flow rate limit of a plugged
filter.

[trader_4]

That's what you would think. But my MB diesel was idling terrible, stalling
at idle. Ran fine at highway speeds. Turned out it was a clogged fuel
filter. I figure that at idle
the pump couldn't develop enough flow, but at higher RPMs it's ability to
pump went up faster than the demand for fuel.

["\"Re...@home.com]

Similar experience on a 1000 mi trip in 1977 with a 73 Plymouth. OK
except when pulling a hill or accelerating.

Stopped for the night and next day went to dealer shop who wanted to
rebuild the carb. No time for that, and on hunch went to a parts store,
bought filter, swapped in motel parking lot, ran fine after.

On trying to blow thru old filter, could tell it was partially clogged.

[Clare Snyder]

I've picked up several REALLY NICE low-hour lawn mowers on the kerb
over the years with water in the tank. Did you by chance leave it
sitting outside in the rain - even ONCE since it was fixed??? Doesn't
matter WHAT gas you use, or how much stabilizer, if you leave it out
in the rain you wil VERY LIKELY end up with water in the gas (or if
long enough, mabee gasoline in the water - - - )

[Mike S]

Sorry to highjack this thread, I am experiencing similar problem with my lawnmower. I've got a Briggs&Stratton engine 12S505-3856-B1 riding on Husqvarna 87521res.
Just like the subject of this thread indicates, having issue with starting the lawnmower without starting fluid. My carb is brand new, along with spark plug, air filter and new gas.
Validated that I have a good spark, gas is flowing from the tube when disconnecting from the carb end. When I remove the air filter, and spray starting fluid instead, it seems more willing to start after 2-3 pulls.
On the gas-only 3x prime method, it doesn't show any signs of starting...

What else could this be? Should I check for compression PSI on the engine?

Thanks!