Bathroom wall framing for towel racks, etc.
Bill
remodel project...
That is, how many times have you seen a bathroom towel rack, toilet
paper holder, etc. torn from the drywall and then it is a pain to put
back up securely?
I've seen this many times. And since my drywall is not yet up, I think
I will frame in multiple "sideways" 2 x 6's anywhere there might be a
towel rack, toilet paper holder, etc. Then just use wood screws to
anchor the towel rack as it will be all wood behind the wall in that
area.
jamesgangnc
Take some pictures and write the height on the picture. Save them for
later.
Mikepier
racks, I usually use toggle bolts because they are far superior to
anchors.
As far as toilet paper holders, I like to use the recessed ones
because they save space and just look neater. Plus you cant rip them
off the wall like surface mount holders.
Tegger
4e219b...@4g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:
> Great idea. But if I do not have any blocking or studs for towel
> racks, I usually use toggle bolts because they are far superior to
> anchors.
I've used those plastic "EZ-Ancors". Their huge threads work very /very/
well for towel racks and shelving mounted directly to drywall.
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Size-EZ-Ancor-Drywall/dp/B001Q5YN4C
You can buy them locally at HD and Lowe's.
--
Tegger
Jim Elbrecht
wrote:
Second those things. I don't waste a second looking for a stud
anymore. Drive a screw. if it hits a stud, fine-- if it doesn't, I
know where I want to put the anchor.
They come in metal, too, but I don't see a difference. I've hung
some pretty heavy stuff off them.
Jim
gpsman
> I will frame in multiple "sideways" 2 x 6's anywhere there might be a
> towel rack, toilet paper holder, etc. Then just use wood screws to
> anchor the towel rack as it will be all wood behind the wall in that
> area.
I'd have to conclude the fixtures you've seen torn from walls were
either improperly mounted, abused, or installed in less than 1/2"
wallboard.
When I was remodeling bathrooms and installed surface mount fixtures I
either grouted them in (ceramic) or used mollys (chrome).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_%28fastener%29
-----
- gpsman
dadiOH
You can do it in reverse too; i.e., on the finish side of the
drywall...screw a decorative board to one or more studs, fasten rack to it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Evan
Rather than use 2x6's which are small compared to the wall size, on
non-bearing walls you can notch the front face of the studs and
install
a strip of 3/4" plywood banding around the wall which is must larger
than
the blocking studs and will support additional weight over a larger
area
rather than being super strong in a much smaller and more limited
location... That way there you won't be having to open up the walls
if you want to add something heavy to the wall later on, and while
toggle bolts are strong, you wouldn't want to be putting holes in the
wall cavities which could allow moisture to penetrate the walls and
develop mold inside where you can not see it...
~~ Evan
The Daring Dufas
I hang a lot of heavy items and things that need good support on drywall
all the time so I've found what works the best in most situations. There
is a combo self drilling/toggle bolt hybrid anchor that works well for
things like toilet paper rolls and towel racks. It goes in like a self
grilling drywall anchor but when you inset the screw, it flips out a
toggle, the screw threads into it pulling it tight.
http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-drywall-toggle-bolts
The other anchor I use for heavier loads is a toggle anchor that stays
put without a screw and it's the best toggle bolt anchor I've found.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-11025&CAWELAID=241016255
http://preview.tinyurl.com/4v6fd3w
TDD
Joe
Second the motion!
BTDT...my bathroom remodel some decades ago still has original towel
bars, etc., still secure and viable having survived two active teens.
One towel bar even doubles as a grab handle for exiting the tub/
shower. Well worth the small extra effort to do it that way. In my
project flat mounted and glued/screwed 2 x 4's were adequate.
Joe
RicodJour
As an alternative you can use some heavier gauge metal track running
horizontally. Just make a couple snips on either side of each
vertical stud on both top and bottom flange of the track, install it
with the bottom of the track facing out and one drywall screw into
each stud, and you have continuous blocking lickety split. The track
has a couple of raised ridges running along either side of the bottom,
so just swat them flush with the stud with a hammer so they don't hold
the drywall away from the stud and cause problems with screw pops.
It's fine for towel racks but you shouldn't be hanging cabinets from
it. If you want to hang something heavier, you can slip a 2x4 inside
the track and attach it with a couple of screws. No need to worry
about an exact fit with the 2x4, toenails and such.
R
aemeijers
Hunk o' 2x4 sounds like a lot less work. Adding blocking while walls is
open is traditional approach. A critical step people often forget is to
document where they put the blocks- a photo (with yardstick or tape
measure) or quick sketch on graph paper, kept someplace you'll be able
to find it, can save a lot of trial and error.
If you are replacing tub, don't forget a band of blocking behind the top
lip.
--
aem sends...
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Yep! They're great for hanging things like towel bars and curtain rods.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
MUCH better idea is to simply put a sheet of 3/4" plywood on that
wall, and drywall over it. That way it is impossible to get the screws
into the crack between the 2X6s
RicodJour
Cover the entire wall with 3/4" ply? A bit expensive where scrap is
usually used, most people don't have towel bars 1' from the ceiling,
if you're only covering part of the wall you'd have to fur out the
rest of the wall or design some transition to cover the wall depth
discrepancy.
As far as the screws into the cracks between the blocking - layout is
everything. It's customary to determine attachment points prior to
installing the blocking, and that's not very tough to do in a
bathroom.
One thing that has always bothered me is that towel bars and grab bars
are frequently 18", 24" or 30" long. Never could understand that.
R
RicodJour
> open is traditional approach.
Depends on how much blocking has to be installed, but yes, cutting
some 2x is the standard method. I was offering an alternative, and
that's why I started off with, "As an alternative..." And cutting
blocking to fit securely between studs and nailing them off flush
would take about the same amount of time as my alternative method.
The only real benefit to my alternative method is that it lets you use
up scrap and cut all of the blocking to the same length. But it's
just an alternative. ;)
> A critical step people often forget is to
> document where they put the blocks- a photo (with yardstick or tape
> measure) or quick sketch on graph paper, kept someplace you'll be able
> to find it, can save a lot of trial and error.
I used to take Polaroid pictures of the framing prior to covering
things up. Digital camera are a Godsend for things like that.
> If you are replacing tub, don't forget a band of blocking behind the top
> lip.
And for grab bars and pedestal sink attachment.
R
gpsman
>
> One thing that has always bothered me is that towel bars and grab bars
> are frequently 18", 24" or 30" long. Never could understand that.
It might suggest anchoring them in studs is overkill.
What's the weight of 2 bath-wet towels, 6 pounds, tops?
-----
- gpsman
Bill
>
> It might suggest anchoring them in studs is overkill.
> What's the weight of 2 bath-wet towels, 6 pounds, tops?
>
With normal use, not a problem...
But I have learned there are two types of people. Those who break
things and those who fix things.
Around this group and including myself are those who fix things... So
I suppose we don't know what people do to tear these towel racks from
the wall???
Maybe kids try hanging from them? Maybe adults as well?
aemeijers
WILL do so. (Just like you take them to a big office building with a
long hallway, they WILL start running,) They can't help it- it is in the
hardwiring. And older folks (not that any of US is old, of course), if
they feel like they are slipping, or climbing over something like a tub
apron (especially if tub floor and room floor are at different levels),
WILL grab onto anything that looks like a handle, without even thinking
about it.
I'm a big fan of those institutional-looking SS grab bars with the big
mounting plates. You can get semi-pretty ones with snap-on covers to
hide the screws. SWMBO usually hates them, but in this case you should
insist. Properly positioned and installed, they don't LOOK like grab
bars, but can still function like them, and they will never break or
tear off their dinky little plates, like a decorative towel bar will.
Just tell SWMBO 'What if your mother visits?'
--
aem sends...
gpsman
> On 2/2/2011 9:21 AM, Bill wrote:
> > "gpsman" wrote in message
>
> >> It might suggest anchoring them in studs is overkill.
> >> What's the weight of 2 bath-wet towels, 6 pounds, tops?
>
> > With normal use, not a problem...
>
> > But I have learned there are two types of people. Those who break things
> > and those who fix things.
>
> > Around this group and including myself are those who fix things... So I
> > suppose we don't know what people do to tear these towel racks from the
> > wall???
>
> > Maybe kids try hanging from them? Maybe adults as well?
>
> Bingo! If anything looks like it is climbable or hang-from-able, kids
> WILL do so.
That seems an exaggeration, perhaps for effect.
But my anecdotal experience suggests standard mounting must be
sufficient 'cause I don't see or hear of too many towel racks (or
their bars) hitting the floor.
Same goes for shower curtains.
-----
- gpsman
RicodJour
> On Feb 2, 12:16 am, RicodJour <ricodj...@worldemail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > One thing that has always bothered me is that towel bars and grab bars
> > are frequently 18", 24" or 30" long. Never could understand that.
>
> It might suggest anchoring them in studs is overkill.
Mounting a grab bar to a stud is overkill? Read that again.
> What's the weight of 2 bath-wet towels, 6 pounds, tops?
This thread started this way:
On Feb 1, 7:48 am, "Bill" <billnomailnosp...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Just thought about another "feature" I can install in my bathroom
> remodel project...
>
> That is, how many times have you seen a bathroom towel rack, toilet
> paper holder, etc. torn from the drywall and then it is a pain to put
> back up securely?
>
> I've seen this many times.
I've also seen it many times. Maybe those people have lead towels?
Or just possibly they get more abuse than the weight of towels.
Your mileage will not vary. You've seen the same thing.
R
gpsman
> On Feb 2, 8:34 am, gpsman <gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Feb 2, 12:16 am, RicodJour <ricodj...@worldemail.com> wrote:
>
> > > One thing that has always bothered me is that towel bars and grab bars
> > > are frequently 18", 24" or 30" long. Never could understand that.
>
> > It might suggest anchoring them in studs is overkill.
>
> Mounting a grab bar to a stud is overkill? Read that again.
I was picturing the grab bars I've seen mounted to pre-installed
ceramic tile walls.
> > What's the weight of 2 bath-wet towels, 6 pounds, tops?
>
> This thread started this way:
> On Feb 1, 7:48 am, "Bill" <billnomailnosp...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Just thought about another "feature" I can install in my bathroom
> > remodel project...
>
> > That is, how many times have you seen a bathroom towel rack, toilet
> > paper holder, etc. torn from the drywall and then it is a pain to put
> > back up securely?
>
> > I've seen this many times.
>
> I've also seen it many times. Maybe those people have lead towels?
> Or just possibly they get more abuse than the weight of towels.
>
> Your mileage will not vary. You've seen the same thing.
I didn't say I hadn't seen it, but IME the bar tends to break or bend
first.
-----
- gpsman
Jerry - OHIO
racks. After removing broken screws on one and re hanging it I starting
on the down stairs bath, I heard the first one fall off again ,it had a
five year old attached to it.
The next week the woman said her garage door had a dent in it. The
stupid bitch forgot to open it when she backed out. She thought we would
fix it !
She moved back to section-8 a year later .
Jr.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
On mine, the area in question was across the end of the bathroom,
under the window, beside the john, and extending from the tub surround
to the far wall - almost exactly 4X8 feet. When the girls were small
they hung on the towel bar to look out the window and pulled it out.
When redoing the bathroom removing that section of damaged drywall and
cutting back the required studs with a router is not an onerous job,
and you only need sheathing grade, not even G1S.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
But a couple of "yard apes" swinging on the towel bar can pull even
big anchors out of drywall (or pull chunks of drywall off the wall)