low power on 120VC outlet

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 6, 2003, 1:11:44 PM5/6/03

to

Have a 120VAC 15 amp circuit for two bedrooms and bathrooms. With no power
being used except an electric clock one of the outlets only registers 15VAC
between the neutral and hot wire-30 VAC between the ground and hot wire. All
other outlets are normal including one 10 feet away. These readings are taken on
the wires when disconnected from the outlet unit.
Any ideas?

Nate B

unread,

May 6, 2003, 2:08:24 PM5/6/03

to

"Robert Flagg"

I have a lot of ideas. My first is that it doesn't sound like you are
measuring correctly. Sure that meter is set to DC, rather than AC? Plug in
a light and see if it is as bright as you expect. With the fraction of
power you seem to be claiming, that would be a good double-check. What
problem are you trying to solve in the first place?

- Nate

Eric

unread,

May 6, 2003, 4:10:28 PM5/6/03

to

Check if you don't have a dimmer in one of the room that you don't know what
it's use for.

Try playing with your dimmers and see if the voltage changes. You may have
two circuits connected on the same dimmer, who knows...

My two cents....

Eric.
Montreal.

"Robert Flagg" <lee...@tdl.com> wrote in message
news:bb3adb78.03050...@posting.google.com...

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 7, 2003, 11:05:18 AM5/7/03

to

I have used a Simpson voltmeter for many years and it is set correctly
when I take a reading. The reading on all other outlets on the circuit
is correct.
Do not understand your question as to what am I trying to accomplish.
There is not adequate power at the outlet to light a new table lamp.
When you you plug in a light there is no discernible glow.

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 7, 2003, 11:10:36 AM5/7/03

to

Thanks Eric but no dimmers on the circuit.
Have a friend who had this same problem sometime ago and he called a
electrician to fix it but not being a DIY individual he does not remember
the reason.

John Gilmer

unread,

May 7, 2003, 1:38:56 PM5/7/03

to

"Robert Flagg" <lee...@tdl.com> wrote in message
news:bb3adb78.03050...@posting.google.com...

What you have is/are broken or disconnected wire(s).

A good Simpson voltmeter doesn't load the circuit very much and it can get
some kind of a reading just from the electric field coupling a truly HOT
conductor with a conductor that has been disconnected.

First, check your fuse/CB box to ensure your circuits are hot at that end.
Also check to see if there are any GFCIs about that have tripped. Some
folks (quite legally and properly) use a GFCI to protect and outlet when the
ground connection is lacking (although they are supposed to label the outlet
"no ground.")

Go back to the outlet, take the cover off, and repeat your measures (be
careful because you may have a HOT wire in the box) where the wired connect
to the screws. If you outlet is the cheap "poke in" type and the poke in
wiring method is used, re-wiring using screws.

Basically, you have to check your wiring one junction box at a time until
you find something wrong.

If you want to be very cautious, you can pull the MAIN fuses or MAIN CB but
leave all the branch circuits fuses in or the CB in "ON."

With a "cold" system, you can use the resistance testing function to do a
LOT of testing.

For example, if you have a good ground then the resistance at any outlet
between neutral and ground should be a fraction of one ohm.

Depending upon what is still "ON" the resistance between HOT and Neutral or
Ground should be more than one ohm but less than, say, 10 ohms.

You can do a lot of safe checking for open wires, reversed connections, and
missing grounds.

You can even do stuff like measure resistance between the ground of an
outlet that test right to the wires of your "bad" outlet.

Frank DeLeon

unread,

May 7, 2003, 5:27:29 PM5/7/03

to

Are the wires stabbed into the back of your receptacles? That's the most
common problem I find when troubleshooting receptacles. Over time the
connections loosen up. It's an easy fix. Make sure the power is off, pull
the wires out of the back of the device, bend a hook in the wire and tighten
it under the corresponding screw. I've seen some receptacles without screws
on the side but they are not very common (in my area anyway.) If yours are
stablocked I would rewire every one in the house. Like I said, that's the
most common problem I run into. There are several possible problems but
most of them have been covered.

E. Lakia

unread,

May 7, 2003, 10:05:03 PM5/7/03

to

Do you have aluminium house wire? I have seen a problem with
the corrosion between the disimilar metals. Pull all the outlets
on the circuit and test. Also get one of those testers to
see if someone switched neutral and ground or some other wiring
mistake. Maybe you are feeding in series through some applicance.

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 10, 2003, 4:31:46 PM5/10/03

to

"Yes it does have aluminum wire. I went through entire house and at
all boxes I attached copper wires to the unit in the box and attached
to house wiring with wire nuts filled with a compound given to me by a
electrical contractor. I will pursue this as soon as I complete
another chore that has cropped up. Thanks

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 10, 2003, 4:38:40 PM5/10/03

to

"John I will also follow your advice when I finish another project.
Thanks for the help.

Robert Flagg

unread,

May 10, 2003, 4:42:07 PM5/10/03

to

"There is nothing wrong with the outlet. The measurement of power was
made on the main house wiring with the outlet detached. Thanks for your input.

volts500

unread,

May 10, 2003, 10:47:24 PM5/10/03

to

"Robert Flagg" <lee...@tdl.com> wrote in message

news:bb3adb78.0305...@posting.google.com...

> "There is nothing wrong with the outlet. The measurement of power was
> made on the main house wiring with the outlet detached. Thanks for your
input.

If that's the case, check the wire connections at the outlet immediately
before that one.