Polyurathane vs varathane vs Spar urathane
Randy Thorne
stained them and now I would like to put a sealer on them. Does anybody
have any recommendations on the following products for finishing the
interior wood?
Thank you.
Davefr
can be renewed when needed, and you can build up the finish to any
gloss and thickness level you desire. Interior window woodwork
doesn't need heavy duty protection. You can use the above 3
varnishes thinned to about 1:3 or buy pre-cut wiping varnishes such as
Minwax Wipe On Poly or Varathane #66 Natural Oil.
If you use a thick brush on film finsh like varnish, when it fails
you may be faced with a miserable job of stripping, sanding,
scrapping.
Varathane is a manufacturers name for their polyurethane. Spar
urathane is intended for exterior applications and you get more film
flexibility but sacrifice hardness of the film. (that would be bad
for a table top but for window frames it would probably be better,
Spar varnish usually has also has more UV blockers added.)
I highly recommend you read Flexner's book called "Understanding Wood
Finishes".
OnThu, 21 Nov 2002 00:03:36 GMT, "Randy Thorne"
peter
There are many polyurathanes on the market. The high-quality
brands are easy to use and usually give good results. The
solvent-based varieties give off a heavy odor which is slightly
harmful to breathe. You would not want to use it inside in the winter
time.
Varathane is a brand of polyurathane. It is water based,
which makes for easier clean-up and is good to use inside in the
winter time because you get much, much less odor.
There is a better brand available. Benjamin Moore has a
product called Stays Clear, which is a bit better than Varathane.
Stays Clear is water based and a bit thicker than Varathane. It's
easier to use. The only problem I have with it is that the lowest
gloss variety is still a bit too glossy for me. I would highly
recommend this product for the job you have. Get a small can and try
it. See what you think.
Be aware that while water-based poly dries in a day or less,
it takes weeks to harden. Be carefull of the surface during that
time. For example, if you use it on a shelf or counter, you would not
want to set things like heavy pottery on it for the first few weeks.
You would probably not want to use spar urathane (or sometimes
refered to as spar varnish) for the job you describe. It is used for
boats, exterior doors, and the like. It would not be necessary inside
unless you leave the windows open when it's raining or for some other
reason have a lot of water on the windows. Interior polyurathane will
withstand a moderate amount of water, just not repeated rainstorms or
being submerged for long periods.
Good luck.
Peter
NOSPAMBOB
packed in bubblewrap inside shopbuilt corrogated cardboard box to ship accross
USA. Packing was a week AFTER last wipe down and box finish showed bubblewrap
affects. Reading woodworking finishing forums makers and designers suggest
waiting at LEAST 8-10 days if not longer prior to rubbing out for final finish.
Name works for E-mail
NOSPAMBOB
varnishes take 3 weeks to cure. Using laptop with touchpad "mouse" and NOT a
happy camper!
Name works for E-mail
Jim
products mentioned IMHO. I have tried them all outdoors on several
boats. CETOL is order of magnitudes more durable. You must use at
least 4 coats however.
Jim
peter <pete...@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<1crptu832i41i4ec4...@4ax.com>...
NOSPAMBOB
waterbased versions and is made by Flecto. Many have switched from oil based
to wayter based, me included, as it dries faster without ambering and easier
cleanup. WB version label includes "Our hardest finish".
In article <1crptu832i41i4ec4...@4ax.com>, peter
<pete...@earthlink.net> writes:
> Varathane is a brand of polyurathane. It is water based,
>which makes for easier clean-up and is good to use inside in the
>winter time because you get much, much less odor.
Name works for E-mail