Foam faucet covers - do they work?

[Eigenvector]

Do those foam faucet covers work for exterior faucets - you know to prevent
freezing in the winter?

The previous owner had them on all the exterior faucets when I bought my
place, had them stuffed with his underwear of all things - dirty underwear
too!

While I don't think I'll stuff them with underwear, assuming they do work as
advertised, do I need to stuff them with something or does simply having
them over the faucet work?

[Tony Hwang]

Eigenvector wrote:

Hi,
Sounds like your exterior faucets are not self-draining type.
You must have a shut off inside the house. and leave the faucet open.

[Eigenvector]

"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:9cBWg.121154$R63.93940@pd7urf1no...

HAH, I have a single cold water shut off in this house, at the meter. Sad
but true, the builder didn't install any shut-offs on any of the cold water
lines - I take that back, there is one at the hot water heater.

[Don Young]

"Eigenvector" <m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Poudndmo_86qerfY...@comcast.com...

I don't know about colder climates, but here in NE Alabama I have been using
these covers for many years and have never had a faucet freeze under one.
Wrapping the faucet in addition can't hurt. Be sure the cover fits snugly
against the wall, trim if necessary.

Don Young

[Al Bundy]

Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in

news:9cBWg.121154$R63.93940@pd7urf1no:

Unfortunately in houses on slabs with 2x4 walls, they come into the wall
from the exterior and that's it. The only shutoff is the main which is
often in a closet.

[George E. Cawthon]

If you have good sill cocks and they are angled
correctly to drain the water out, they won't
freeze at least down to -20F (assuming you keep
your house heated). If you've got those things
use them; they obviously provide some protection.

[buffalobill]

they might work if the supply water pipe is within a warm room.

[DK]

I suggest you wrap the faucet and pipe with 'something' that will
retain the warmth in ADDITION to the foam covers. If underwear is
offensive to you then use a towel.

[oklaman]

i've used them and my faucets still froze.

but better than nothing.

"Eigenvector" <m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:A7idnZkY296TQ7fY...@comcast.com...

[scott...@gmail.com]

>HAH, I have a single cold water shut off in this house, at the meter. Sad
but true, the builder didn't install any shut-offs on any of the cold
water
lines - I take that back, there is one at the hot water heater.

The cutoff at the hot water heater may have been installed when the hot
water heater was replaced (I am assuming that it has been replaced at
least once). I would add all the cutoff valves that you should have.
At the very least do it at every faucet inside the house.

[Goedjn]

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:41:03 -0700, "Eigenvector"
<m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Do those foam faucet covers work for exterior faucets - you know to prevent
>freezing in the winter?
>

Are they that much cheaper than a shut-off valve with a waste-plug?
And no, they won't help during an extended freeze, unless
you're also applying heat somehow from the inside. (If your
basement is heated, you might get enough heat conducted
along the copper that insulating the outer end will help.)

[Joshua Putnam]

They work well in milder climates -- we rarely have extended
temperatures below the mid-20s, and they work for a day or two at those
temperatures. Still, iffy enough that I drained our faucets until I
replaced them with freeze-proof faucets.

--
jo...@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/>
Braze your own bicycle frames. See
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/build.html>

[Eigenvector]

"Goedjn" <pr...@mail.uri.edu> wrote in message
news:5gcni2p9pkvtpf5k2...@4ax.com...

No I'm sure they aren't better, but I am having to fight my battles one at a
time here. Besides, no need to do extensive plumbing if a simple styrofoam
cover works just fine! But it sounds like they don't....

[Tom The Great]

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:41:03 -0700, "Eigenvector"
<m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote:

If you live in an area where it gets long freezing temps, and you
don't have time to put in freeze proof faucets, then foam covers sound
like a way to go.

Just an obvious tip, make sure you install them correctly, and tight.
imho,

tom @ www.MyFastCoolCars.com

[George E. Cawthon]

Here's a thought. Electronic thermometers with
wireless remote sensors are fairly cheap. So
stick a remote in the faucet cover and attach it
firmly to the house. Then compare the outside
temp with the temp in the faucet cover. It is
beginning to get colder so you should get some
indication of how effective the cover is.

[Al Bundy]

"Eigenvector" <m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:A7idnZkY296TQ7fY...@comcast.com:

Assuming you cannot do it conventionally, any insullation is better than
none. How much is another question.

Speculation follows:

It's my understanding that a pipe going through an opening will freeze at
that point faster if there is a draft (airspace) on it. Makes sense since
a draft can suck heat faster.

I would guess putting a foam cover on it would (help) prevent heat from
getting sucked off the faucett faster. How much? Who knows. Packing it
loosely with insullation/pipe wrap can't hurt either. Of course, it could
still freeze and possibly bust. If it cracks inside the wall it's gonna
leak immediately or when the temps rise and thaw it.

Guess the only other option is to leave it running a bit when it's super
cold. Direct it away from the foundation would be a good thing, Don't
want oodles of water freezing there.

[hal...@aol.com]

time to correct the original error and add shut offs all around home,
just like I did, use BALL valves they always work and shut off fast! do
cost a bit more but they dont obstruct the line at all.

my home had none now they are everywhere, its saved me like the night
the bathroom tub faucet decided to not shut off, we would of had no
water at all if I hadnt added those valves......

[Al Bundy]

Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in

news:wV%Wg.120986$1T2.18298@pd7urf2no:

> Hmmm,
> How can they do that? Our local plumbing code requires inside shut off
> and self draining outside tap.

Different era. Different location. Different codes.

[Eigenvector]

<hal...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1160568930.8...@c28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Actually I wanted to ask about that as well. All of the new valves that I
install for fixtures, are 1/4 turn ball valves. I can see a gate valve
getting stuck partially open due to buildup of scale, rust, you name it.
But a ball valve should be relatively immune to that. It won't be immune to
the effects of side leakage and poor tolerancing though.

Are the ball valves worth it?

[Rob]

replying to hal...@aol.com, Rob wrote:
Insulation is effective when you have a significant temperature
differential between the spaces on each side of the insulation. The hose
bib is "outside," right? So, outside the cover you have frigid outdoor
air, inside the cover you have the hose bibb and more outdoor air. With no
source of heat, and no seal, how long is it going to take for the
temperature inside the cover to become equal to the temperature outside
the cover? Not very long.

As "insulation" I can't see how those covers can do much of anything other
than make money for the manufacturer and stores that sell them. There
might be a little value in dissipating wind chill if the faucet is exposed
to the wind, though, and keep snow and ice off of it.

A more effective thing might be to use a heat tape on the pipe during
periods of extreme cold. This will keep the pipe warm enough so the water
inside will not freeze.


--

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

IF the pipe to the faucet comes from a heated area, the insulated
cover CAN prevent freezing. The copper pipe will conduct heat out of
the heated space, and the cover will help p;revent that heat from
dissipating, keeping the faucet from freezing, at least untill the
temperature difference gets too large or the cover gets knocked off.

[mike]

On 1/3/2014 4:44 PM, Rob wrote:
> replying to hal...@aol.com, Rob wrote:
> Insulation is effective when you have a significant temperature
> differential between the spaces on each side of the insulation. The hose
> bib is "outside," right? So, outside the cover you have frigid outdoor
> air, inside the cover you have the hose bibb and more outdoor air. With no
> source of heat,

That's the key.
My outside hose bib valve is inside a heated wall and the water
stays almost a foot inside the wall. I don't expect it to freeze, but
I put an insulated cover on it to make sure.

The one in the garage goes down the garage wall to a shutoff/drain then
into the
warmer ground.
The pipe is insulated.
I put a cover on that one too to slow the heat flow from the shutoff
valve to the outside. All I need is the ground to keep the valve from
freezing by putting in more heat than is lost thru the outside insulated
bib.
When it gets below about 15F, I lay a 25W light bulb near the valve on
that one. Happens a few times a decade.

Insulated covers are cheap and often helpful...but not a substitute
for thinking about the thermodynamics of the situation.

You'd expect that homes constructed in a region would be tolerant
of weather conditions in that region. YMMV

[hrho...@sbcglobal.net]

Here in Chicagoland, it is supposed to be between -15F and -11F on Monday. With the hi temp at -11F, a styrofoam cover is not going to be enough to prevent sillcocks from freezing.

[gregz]

My folks house had two outside faucets. One in garage, and one going out
through the electrical box wood enclosure. The garage was near the ceiling.
The other high in a basement room. We never had an issue I remember. It
used to get cold in Pittsburgh. I remember -17. I think the pipe on the
inside of the cinderblocks is at least 50 degrees, so I guess that helps.

It's going to be colder Monday than, well I can't remember last time, -9
degrees. I heard -22 in 1994.

Greg

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Sat, 04 Jan 2014 00:44:01 +0000, Rob
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to hal...@aol.com, Rob wrote:
>Insulation is effective when you have a significant temperature
>differential between the spaces on each side of the insulation. The hose
>bib is "outside," right? So, outside the cover you have frigid outdoor
>air, inside the cover you have the hose bibb and more outdoor air. With no
>source of heat, and no seal, how long is it going to take for the
>temperature inside the cover to become equal to the temperature outside
>the cover? Not very long.

The wall and pipe are the source of heat. If your insulation were
perfect, you'd be right.

>As "insulation" I can't see how those covers can do much of anything other
>than make money for the manufacturer and stores that sell them. There
>might be a little value in dissipating wind chill if the faucet is exposed
>to the wind, though, and keep snow and ice off of it.
>
>A more effective thing might be to use a heat tape on the pipe during
>periods of extreme cold. This will keep the pipe warm enough so the water
>inside will not freeze.

I'm with you, if you're talking about Northern climes. In the South,
these work reasonably well because it rarely gets very cold for
extended periods of time. If it gets to 15F for an hour, here, it's
damned cold. The daily highs are rarely below 35F, or so. Anything
helps.

If you're in the North, you really need frostless silcocks or drain
any standard silcocks. The little boot isn't going to do anything but
let you sleep better. ...until the pipe breaks.

[Stormin Mormon]

Did you email Al Gore, the global warming guy, and
ask for your money back on his prediction?

Sounds rough. I'm glad NYS isn't that bone numbing
cold. I hope you have backup heat in case the
power or gas goes out.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

[Art Todesco]

On 1/3/2014 9:01 PM, hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Here in Chicagoland, it is supposed to be between -15F and -11F on Monday. With the hi temp at -11F, a styrofoam cover is not going to be enough to prevent sillcocks from freezing.
>

I've had only one experience with them about 10-15 years ago. My FIL
covered his outside faucet with said foam cover. On the other side of
the wall was a bedroom closet where the water meter was located. At
this time I don't remember if the faucet was one of the freeze proof
units where the valve is actually on the inside of the wall. But, that
closet was cold because, besides one short wall being an exterior wall,
one long wall backed up to the unheated garage. Plus, the bedroom was
unused, so they probably shut off the heat registers. Anyway, we had a
cold snap and the pipe froze and cracked (copper). As I recall, we kept
the faucet and put in a shut off with drain, inside the closet.

[Bob F]

k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>> A more effective thing might be to use a heat tape on the pipe during
>> periods of extreme cold. This will keep the pipe warm enough so the
>> water inside will not freeze.
>
> I'm with you, if you're talking about Northern climes. In the South,
> these work reasonably well because it rarely gets very cold for
> extended periods of time. If it gets to 15F for an hour, here, it's
> damned cold. The daily highs are rarely below 35F, or so. Anything
> helps.

You can always add a little fiberglass insulation wrapped around the faucet to
fill up the air space inside the foam cover to impprove its performance and
decrease the effect of minor leaks where it seats to the wall.

I actually use the fiberglass and a plastic food "tub" slid over it on one
faucet. But then again, we don't get really hard freezes here.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Sat, 4 Jan 2014 17:22:44 -0800, "Bob F" <bobn...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>>> A more effective thing might be to use a heat tape on the pipe during
>>> periods of extreme cold. This will keep the pipe warm enough so the
>>> water inside will not freeze.
>>
>> I'm with you, if you're talking about Northern climes. In the South,
>> these work reasonably well because it rarely gets very cold for
>> extended periods of time. If it gets to 15F for an hour, here, it's
>> damned cold. The daily highs are rarely below 35F, or so. Anything
>> helps.
>
>You can always add a little fiberglass insulation wrapped around the faucet to
>fill up the air space inside the foam cover to impprove its performance and
>decrease the effect of minor leaks where it seats to the wall.

That works, to, though you'll need something to keep it dry.

>I actually use the fiberglass and a plastic food "tub" slid over it on one
>faucet. But then again, we don't get really hard freezes here.

That works.

[Bob F]

Actually, the foam cover or tub seems to keep it pretty dry, even here in rain
country.

[dpb]

On 1/4/2014 7:22 PM, Bob F wrote:
> k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>>> A more effective thing might be to use a heat tape on the pipe during
>>> periods of extreme cold. This will keep the pipe warm enough so the
>>> water inside will not freeze.
>>
>> I'm with you, if you're talking about Northern climes. In the South,
>> these work reasonably well because it rarely gets very cold for
>> extended periods of time. If it gets to 15F for an hour, here, it's
>> damned cold. The daily highs are rarely below 35F, or so. Anything
>> helps.
>
> You can always add a little fiberglass insulation wrapped around the faucet to
> fill up the air space inside the foam cover to impprove its performance and
> decrease the effect of minor leaks where it seats to the wall.

...

Actually, that probably doesn't help much if any as doing so would
basically compress the fiberglass to a solid mat at which it has very
little actual insulating R value left. It's the same idea as that on
not compressing fiberglass batts by squeezing an R19 roll for 6" stud
into a tubafor wall cavity.

An air barrier, otoh, would be beneficial to stop airleaks.


--

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Sun, 5 Jan 2014 09:33:27 -0800, "Bob F" <bobn...@gmail.com>

I'd just use the widget the BORG sells. I has a handy lanyard that
makes mounting it securely a snap. Stuff it with insulation, if you
must.

[k...@attt.bizz]

Compressing insulation doesn't render it useless. It does help keep
it in place, though.

[Pavel314]

On Monday, October 9, 2006 7:41:03 PM UTC-4, Eigenvector wrote:
> Do those foam faucet covers work for exterior faucets - you know to prevent
> freezing in the winter?
>
> The previous owner had them on all the exterior faucets when I bought my
> place, had them stuffed with his underwear of all things - dirty underwear
> too!
>
> While I don't think I'll stuff them with underwear, assuming they do work as
> advertised, do I need to stuff them with something or does simply having
> them over the faucet work?

I use heat tape where needed, like on the line coming from the oil tank to the basement or the lines in the pump house out by the barn. We have shut offs for the outside faucets so we shut them off and drain them at the beginning of winter.


Paul

[Bob F]

Nonsense. I never implied you should stuff a whole roll of insulation into it.
Wrapping a little around it will significantly reduce air flow into the air
space, increasing the effectiveness of the foam cap, and adds insulation value
also.

[The Daring Dufas]

When the weather gets really cold, a lot of folks make the mistake of
closing off rooms when there are pipes in the walls, in the ceiling or
under the floor. When we had a cold snap and the temperature dropped to
7°F which is unusually cold for Alabamastan, my roommate had closed off
his bedroom to keep my barking rat out of there while he stayed with
family in another county, I had to partially open the door and block the
bottom to keep Sandy out because there are pipes under his bedroom.
We had no pipes freeze but the kid across the street came over to borrow
my water key to shut off their water because pipes froze and burst in
their unheated basement. Sometimes it costs more money when you try to
save money. ^_^

TDD

[Stormin Mormon]

On 1/19/2014 3:52 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> When the weather gets really cold, a lot of folks make the mistake of
> closing off rooms when there are pipes in the walls, in the ceiling or
> under the floor. When we had a cold snap and the temperature dropped to
> 7°F which is unusually cold for Alabamastan, my roommate had closed off
> his bedroom to keep my barking rat out of there while he stayed with
> family in another county, I had to partially open the door and block the
> bottom to keep Sandy out because there are pipes under his bedroom.
> We had no pipes freeze but the kid across the street came over to borrow
> my water key to shut off their water because pipes froze and burst in
> their unheated basement. Sometimes it costs more money when you try to
> save money. ^_^
>
> TDD

I'm in the frozen pipes club, too. I had one freeze
one night when it got down to about +2F, and the
wind was blowing into my water heater cabinet. I need
a new thread on how cold does it have to be, before I
leave a faucet dripping.

[k...@attt.bizz]

It's amazing that pipes burst in a basement. There must be some
really bad air leaks down there. I'd get that fixed as soon as
possible. My basement is still around 60F, though I did insulate the
above-ground portion last Winter.

It helps to know where your plumbing is. I have one bedroom upstairs
closed off because there is nothing in it (the two of us really don't
need five bedrooms). Other than the silcocks, there are no water
lines in the outside walls, though. The bathroom upstairs is in the
center of the house and it is upstairs (convection) so I'm not worried
about heat up there. My office is in the FRoG, so it does get chilly
up there. I turn the heat up when I use it for any time.

[Tom Silvah]

On 01/19/2014 04:02 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> I'm in the frozen pipes club, too. I had one freeze
> one night when it got down to about +2F, and the
> wind was blowing into my water heater cabinet. I need
> a new thread on how cold does it have to be, before I
> leave a faucet dripping.
>

Could you put in some louvres in the wall between the water heater cabinet and the living space?

[Stormin Mormon]

Sure, that's not all that hard to do. What I
actually did on the day of the freeze, was to
cover the (about) 9 x 13 inch hole in the WH
cabinet door, with mylar double bubble wrap.
Cut down on the cold blast coming in.

[Richard Thethaway]

On 01/19/2014 05:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 1/19/2014 5:07 PM, Tom Silvah wrote:
>> On 01/19/2014 04:02 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>> I'm in the frozen pipes club, too. I had one freeze
>>> one night when it got down to about +2F, and the
>>> wind was blowing into my water heater cabinet. I need
>>> a new thread on how cold does it have to be, before I
>>> leave a faucet dripping.
>>>
>>
>> Could you put in some louvres in the wall between the water heater
>> cabinet and the living space?
>
> Sure, that's not all that hard to do.

Yah, even Kevin O'Conner could handle that job.

[Julie Bove]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:F3XCu.282162$m_6.1...@fx25.iad...

> I'm in the frozen pipes club, too. I had one freeze
> one night when it got down to about +2F, and the
> wind was blowing into my water heater cabinet. I need
> a new thread on how cold does it have to be, before I
> leave a faucet dripping.

I've not had frozen pipes and I've lived in Cape Cod, KS, NY and PA (not in
the winter in PA) though. For many years I did use the foam covers. I've
even been told that in a pinch, you could use a large foam cup and duct tape
it on.

A few years ago, I bought faucet socks. I like those better because they
take up less room to store.

Here in WA it doesn't normally get as cold as it does in the places I
mentioned above. Still when the water gets really cold and stays there, I
will leave a faucet just barely running, just in case.

[Tekkie®]

The Daring Dufas posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

And the Fire Co's get the alarm activations
because of the burst pipes. The ambulances get the
slip and fall and crashes, along with the skiing
accidents. The thing that is very surprising to
me is there have been no maternity calls when it
has been snowing. Not many fingers caught in
snowblowers. (I used to tell the new people to go
look for the shrimp on the ground to find them)

--
Tekkie

[Tekkie®]

Richard Thethaway posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

>

Ya think? I'm not sure he might have to call in
someone.

--
Normal Abrahms

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 21:53:06 -0500, Tekkie® <Tek...@comcast.net>
wrote:

Didn't your father ever give you "the talk"? The maternity calls come
nine months later.

[Allan]

replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that don't
expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may be better then
nothing at all.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/foam-faucet-covers-do-they-work-154716-.htm

[Mark Lloyd]

On 01/06/2017 04:44 PM, Allan wrote:
> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that don't
> expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may be better then
> nothing at all.
>

They trap a little of the heat that is in the water.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"Any belief worth having must survive doubt."

[Terry Coombs]

Mark Lloyd wrote:
> On 01/06/2017 04:44 PM, Allan wrote:
>> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
>> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that
>> don't expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may
>> be better then nothing at all.
>>
>
> They trap a little of the heat that is in the water.

But the best solution is still a faucet that drains the water that might
freeze . Lacking that , I'd leave the faucet dripping during periods of
extreme cold .
--
Snag

[Grumpy Old White Guy]

On 1/6/2017 5:44 PM, Allan wrote:
> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that don't
> expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may be better then
> nothing at all.
>

Since this thread is over 10 years old, maybe the OP could tell us if they work.

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[ItsJoanNotJoann]

On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 6:50:31 PM UTC-6, Grumpy Old White Guy wrote:
>
> On 1/6/2017 5:44 PM, Allan wrote:
> > replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
> > They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that don't
> > expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may be better then
> > nothing at all.
> >
> Since this thread is over 10 years old, maybe the OP could tell us if they work.
>
>

Agree.

[DI...@inyourpants.com]

Too late:

The OP was standing outdoors in the cold, watching the faucet. The
temperature was minus 42 deg.F. He froze to death, in less than one
hour.
Now we will never know if that $5.99 foamie worked....

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 6 Jan 2017 18:11:20 -0600, "Terry Coombs"

<snag...@msn.com> wrote:

>Mark Lloyd wrote:
>> On 01/06/2017 04:44 PM, Allan wrote:
>>> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
>>> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that

Only if the spigot is wet, and the evaporating water drains heat from
the faucet. Winds feel colder to people because our skin is (almost?)
always slightly wet from perspiration

>>> don't expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may
>>> be better then nothing at all.
>>>
>>
>> They trap a little of the heat that is in the water.

Plus if you have metal pipes and a basement, the heat in the basement is
conducted to the spigot, slowly but 24 hours a day.

It woudl be interesting to actually measure all this. One could put a
glass thermometer thought the foam cover and get some idea.

I used to use the totally foam ones but they broke. Later they made one
with a plastic case and hard foam inside.

>
> But the best solution is still a faucet that drains the water that might
>freeze . Lacking that , I'd leave the faucet dripping during periods of
>extreme cold .

Definitely . I keep thinking I shoudl ask some n'bors. It may be that
in Baltimore it doesn't get cold enough and maybe they never drain
their faucets and then I wouldn't have to do more than they do.

The valves inside do have those drain knobs, which the valves I grew up
with didn't have.

[Terry Coombs]

The faucets I'm referring to have the actual valve about a foot inside the
exterior wall . Any water outside the valve itself drains out the hose
connection - assuming there is not a hose connected .
We had one of those standpipe water faucets that are supposed to drain
into a gravel bed at the foot of the unit . First one froze and cracked
several years ago while we were in Memphis for Christmas - the water supply
to the camper was hooked to it - and the second got broken off at the base
when I ran over it with the car ... now I have a regular faucet that's at
the bottom of a buried kitty litter bucket with the bottom cut out . It's
about 16" below grade and in winter I cover it (the KL bucket) with a piece
of plywood .
Good thing that first standpipe unit froze , because the drain pipes also
froze and if it hadn't the camper would have flooded . Not a problem any
more , all my plumbing is under the house and none of the supply lines are
on an outside wall . Camper is still in place but since we neither sleep nor
cook there any more the water is disconnected and all lines/drains
winterized .
--
Snag

[FromTheRafters]

DI...@inyourpants.com was thinking very hard :

Had he been wearing foam, he would have froze to death in two hours.

[trader_4]

On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 8:57:32 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
> In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 6 Jan 2017 18:11:20 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
> <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>
> >Mark Lloyd wrote:
> >> On 01/06/2017 04:44 PM, Allan wrote:
> >>> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
> >>> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that
>
> Only if the spigot is wet, and the evaporating water drains heat from
> the faucet. Winds feel colder to people because our skin is (almost?)
> always slightly wet from perspiration

The faucet does not have to be wet. The faucet is on the end of a pipe
going into the house, where it is warm. It will be conducting heat from
the house to the outside. Moving air past it increases the conduction.
Putting a foam cover around it will lessen it.

>
> >>> don't expect much if a deep freeze lasts several days but they may
> >>> be better then nothing at all.
> >>>
> >>
> >> They trap a little of the heat that is in the water.
>
> Plus if you have metal pipes and a basement, the heat in the basement is
> conducted to the spigot, slowly but 24 hours a day.
>
> It woudl be interesting to actually measure all this. One could put a
> glass thermometer thought the foam cover and get some idea.
>
> I used to use the totally foam ones but they broke. Later they made one
> with a plastic case and hard foam inside.
> >
> > But the best solution is still a faucet that drains the water that might
> >freeze . Lacking that , I'd leave the faucet dripping during periods of
> >extreme cold .
>
> Definitely . I keep thinking I shoudl ask some n'bors. It may be that
> in Baltimore it doesn't get cold enough and maybe they never drain
> their faucets and then I wouldn't have to do more than they do.
>
> The valves inside do have those drain knobs, which the valves I grew up
> with didn't have.

Best solution is a freeze proof sillcock.

[trader_4]

Called a freeze proof or frost proof sillcock.

[hah]

On 01/06/2017 07:24 PM, DI...@inyourpants.com wrote:

[snip]

> Too late:
>
> The OP was standing outdoors in the cold, watching the faucet. The
> temperature was minus 42 deg.F. He froze to death, in less than one
> hour.

Any gerbils? :-)

> Now we will never know if that $5.99 foamie worked....
>

--
"Here's what happens when you die--you sit in a box and get eaten by
worms. I guarantee you that nothing cool happens when you die." [Howard
Stern, on E! network show, 4/12/95]

[FromTheRafters]

trader_4 was thinking very hard :

> On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 8:57:32 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
>> In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 6 Jan 2017 18:11:20 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
>> <snag...@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mark Lloyd wrote:
>>>> On 01/06/2017 04:44 PM, Allan wrote:
>>>>> replying to Eigenvector, Allan wrote:
>>>>> They do block wind which which drives temps lower. Other then that
>>
>> Only if the spigot is wet, and the evaporating water drains heat from
>> the faucet. Winds feel colder to people because our skin is (almost?)
>> always slightly wet from perspiration
>
> The faucet does not have to be wet. The faucet is on the end of a pipe
> going into the house, where it is warm. It will be conducting heat from
> the house to the outside. Moving air past it increases the conduction.
> Putting a foam cover around it will lessen it.

That would be convection, and perhaps radiation being addressed by the
foam.

[...]