OT - Repair of aluminum cookware handle
NOSPAMBOB
handle spins on the machine screw. First attempt to unscrew resulted in
expected snapping off of half of the slotted head. Used 240 grit sandpaper on
the bottom to remove enough of the carbon to see Montgomery Ward logo on the
bottom including capital L and E that bracket the wide W at the bottom of the
logo. Pot belonged she believes to her grandmother as her mother used it when
she was a toddler and she's in her 60s. I could used a Dremel to shear off the
balance of the head to get the handle off but unsure what steps to take after
that with minimal damage. Would be happy for someone to tell me what steps to
take or where to go. Don't need a response from the infantile Art or Chief
thank you!
APoleSelector
>Don't need a response from the infantile Art or Chief
All of Usenet echoes those sentiments. Arty and all of his endless
personalities.
Arty Boy you are nothing but an AHOLE, NOTHING!
Always were always will be.
Jim Yanik
news:20030303175944...@mb-fe.aol.com:
Strange to see that they made ALUMINUM pots 100 years ago. ???
I thought they used cast iron back then.
Can you use a Dremel and a cut-off disc to cut a new slot in the head,or is
the head recessed? I would think that a steel screw would not rust into an
aluminum pot body,but you could possibly strip out the threads in aluminum.
Use penetrating oil and mild heat to unfreeze the screw after you get the
handle off,if you break the screwhead off.
Now,if the pot is cast iron,you could braze a SS nut onto it to hold a
new,stainless steel screw. I did this for a stainless pot I have.
--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
remove X to contact me
indago
To remove these stubborn type screws, I use a DeWalt battery drill with the
adjustable impact head. You can start with a very light impact, and if the
screw doesn't budge, adjust the impact up a bit. You have to clean the slot
of the screw out so that the screwdriver bit sets firmly into the slot. The
hammering action of the impact seems to loosen the sediment or rust that
holds the screw from turning.
Of course, this does not answer your dilemma at present. You have a
headless screw stuck into a thread. You could still use the impact by
putting the screw shaft into the drill motor chuck and tightening securely,
then set the impact lightly and reverse the drill and pull the trigger,
letting the impact hammer away at the screw. If it doesn't budge, set the
impact a little higher.
Sometimes this doesn't work, but most of the time I have been able to remove
the most stubborn screws or bolts.
Joe Bobst
slotted head. >>
People in automotive repair have to deal with broken studs, whatever in
aluminum cylinder heads on a routine basis. FWIW, here's how they handle it:
Find a friend or a shop with a MIG (wire) welder. It takes about a minute to
zap a good sized glob of new metal to the steel bolt. The welder heat usually
loosens the assembly enough to grab the blob with Visegrips and turn it out.
Very rarely this technique will fail. If so, file the stub smooth, centerpunch
and drill the bolt out. If the new hole is sized right it can be rethreaded
easily, and thread taps are pretty cheap, but buy what is called a bottoming
tap to get maximum threads in the shortest distance. If the hole is too large,
stainless steel inserts can be used (Helicoils or similar).
It is even possible for a good welding tech to build up the damaged aluminum
for new attachments if the status as a family treasure warrants it. Hope this
helps.
Joe
NOSPAMBOB
remove the residue of the long bolt, took the wooden handle off and started
unscrewing the bolt (I thought) with vise grips. Slowly turning and then NO
RESISTANCE as the bolt snapped inside the aluminum housing. Believe it can be
reached with narrow pliers so next episode is heat the aluminum with propane
torch to expand it and try pliers to unscrew bolt. Bottom of pot states
aluminumware and the timeframe was specified by our friend, 100 years or
thereabouts. Think it might need to be that old to build the amount of carbon
it has.
In article <20030304104825...@mb-bd.aol.com>,
jbo...@aol.comtosspam (Joe Bobst) writes:
>It is even possible for a good welding tech to build up the damaged aluminum
>for new attachments if the status as a family treasure warrants it.
Name works for E-mail
RamblinOn
Jim Yanik wrote:
nosp...@aol.com (NOSPAMBOB) wrote in news:20030303175944...@mb-fe.aol.com:Friend asked me to try to fix the loose wooden handle on the 100 year old pot, handle spins on the machine screw. First attempt to unscrew resulted in expected snapping off of half of the slotted head. Used 240 grit sandpaper on the bottom to remove enough of the carbon to see Montgomery Ward logo on the bottom including capital L and E that bracket the wide W at the bottom of the logo. Pot belonged she believes to her grandmother as her mother used it when she was a toddler and she's in her 60s. I could used a Dremel to shear off the balance of the head to get the handle off but unsure what steps to take after that with minimal damage. Would be happy for someone to tell me what steps to take or where to go. Don't need a response from the infantile Art or Chief thank you!Strange to see that they made ALUMINUM pots 100 years ago. ??? I thought they used cast iron back then.
http://rmc.library.cornell.edu/food/food_nutrition/Home_Economics_n_Industry_L.htm
I don't think aluminum cookware was around 100 years ago, but it can't be too much newer.
Can you use a Dremel and a cut-off disc to cut a new slot in the head,or is the head recessed? I would think that a steel screw would not rust into an aluminum pot body,but you could possibly strip out the threads in aluminum. Use penetrating oil and mild heat to unfreeze the screw after you get the handle off,if you break the screwhead off. Now,if the pot is cast iron,you could braze a SS nut onto it to hold a new,stainless steel screw. I did this for a stainless pot I have.
NOSPAMBOB
to the iceman how much to bring into the house with the tongs and leather
shoulder pad. He was right behind the Rags, Bottles and Sacks man with his
horse and cart. Ice man didn't have a song but the Rags man did, far cry from
the rappers of today!
In article <3E66243D...@mindspring.com>, RamblinOn
<ramb...@mindspring.com> writes:
>Does anyone else remember ice boxes? The ice man who delivered ice from a
horse drawn wagon?)
Name works for E-mail
Jim Yanik
news:3E66243D...@mindspring.com:
Turn off your HTML when posting to newsgroups.
If the pot is aluminum,and he strips the threads out of the pot removing
the screw,then his best bet is to drill through the pot,and put a new SS
screw through the hole and handle,with a nut on the handle end.
He could get a aluminum nut block mig-welded on,then screw on the
handle.Use a SS screw.
Epoxy is not good for such applications,it gets soft under heat.
I mentioned brazing only for a cast iron or SS steel pot(like my
application),not for aluminum.
Is it a pot,or a fry pan,or one of those 'Dutch ovens'?
NOSPAMBOB
In article <Xns9335DAC7FCA...@204.117.192.21>, Jim Yanik
<jya...@kua.net> writes:
>Is it a pot,or a fry pan,or one of those 'Dutch ovens'?
>
Name works for E-mail
Jim Yanik
news:20030306144258...@mb-me.aol.com:
> Pot 7.75" at top and husky alum about 1/4" thick.
>
> In article <Xns9335DAC7FCA...@204.117.192.21>, Jim Yanik
><jya...@kua.net> writes:
>
>>Is it a pot,or a fry pan,or one of those 'Dutch ovens'?
>>
Let us know how you fix it,please.
NOSPAMBOB
stub and extract it. I can make a wood handle for it but the stub needs to be
gone. We believe we can get there from here. She commented they "Don't make
them like that anymore".
In article <Xns9336B95D44C...@204.117.192.21>, Jim Yanik
<jya...@kua.net> writes:
>Let us know how you fix it,please.
Name works for E-mail
Jim Yanik
news:20030307151123...@mb-bk.aol.com:
> Owner is taking it to her brothers as we speak so he can weld
> something to the stub and extract it. I can make a wood handle for it
> but the stub needs to be gone. We believe we can get there from here.
> She commented they "Don't make them like that anymore".
When the steel screw on my SS cooking pot broke off,I could not get the
rusted stub out,so I want to Skycraft Surplus,found a SS threaded spacer
and new SS screw,cut and ground the spacer to fit -over- the stub ,and
brazed it on the pot.Worked great,the handle still fit over the spacer,and
the SS screw will not rust through like the old one did.
NOSPAMBOB
In article <Xns93398C53438...@204.117.192.21>, Jim Yanik
<jya...@kua.net> writes:
>When the steel screw on my SS cooking pot broke off,I could not get the
>rusted stub out,so I want to Skycraft Surplus,found a SS threaded spacer
>and new SS screw,cut and ground the spacer to fit -over- the stub ,and
>brazed it on the pot.Worked great,the handle still fit over the spacer,and
>the SS screw will not rust through like the old one did.
Name works for E-mail
trud...@gmail.com
Is there anyway you can post a picture of what you did? The final product?
Thank you,
Kristina