How much should a gutter slope?
Charles
anyone know the magic number for how much slope it should have towards the
downspout?
Thanks a ton:
Charles
Ben Franklin VI
Ben
>rom: "Charles" char...@NOSPAM.bellsouth.net
>Date: 8/18/00 7:38 PM Central Daylight Time
>Message-id: <PFkn5.486$km2.2...@typhoon-news2.southeast.rr.com>
The US and the UK -- two great nations divided by a common language.
Richard J Kinch
>I need to add about 25 feet of gutter to a screen porch I'm building.
>Does anyone know the magic number for how much slope it should have
>towards the downspout?
Rules of thumb for gutters:
Slope 1/8 inch per running foot.
Max run per downspout of 40 feet.
1 sq in downspout cross-section per 100 sq ft of roof drained.
_Modern Roofing Care and Repair_
Creative Homeowner Press
Your supplier should have these simple facts, or at least a brochure at the
mega-store.
Bill Michalek
Bill Michalek
http://www.sdraingutters.com
"Charles" <char...@NOSPAM.bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:PFkn5.486$km2.2...@typhoon-news2.southeast.rr.com...
John E. Newton
back to a comment on the thread.
As a practical matter most rofessionals get as much slope as possible up to one
eigth inch per foot.
Let's say you have an 80' straight run. Downs at each end.
1/8 per foot gives 5". This is not possible without having the gutter hang
well below the rafter facia. As a practical matter most professionals will go
with 2" in this case.
BUT THEN there is the hazard of being sued in small claims court by raymondj
;-) :-) :-)
>Subject: Re: How much should a gutter slope?
>From: gmic...@san.rr.com
>Date: 8/19/00 12:24 AM Central Daylight Time
encoded message here down load and decode (I will not) hope to see it
re-posted in text. Thanks.
Johnnie
Thomas G. Baker
1. Is this based on capacity of gutter or leader, or is it based on appearance
with the change in elevation of the gutter?
TB
Bill Michalek
perpetuated, and ends up being the "magical answer". It mostly has to do
with the fact that after about 40 feet water tend to stop moving after the
rain.
The answer to your question is that you need to calculate the square footage
of your roof, and find out what the roof pitch is. If your an experience
professional you can look in the Sheet Metal-Air Conditioning Manual
(SMACNA) and get the geographical rain fall numbers for your area. That is
to say, that there is a chart in the manual that gives you the roof square
footage ratio per downspout square inches for your area.
For example: Here is San Diego our ratio is 250 square feet of roof for 1
square inch of downspout for a four in twelve pitch roof. This is for
"average rain fall". We would then multiply 6 ( a 2" x 3" downspout = 6
square inches) times 250 to get 1500 square feet of roofing. That's a log of
roof (we only get between 9 to 11 inches of rain per year). Now that's where
the 40' comes in. Many homes in this area are 1500 square feet. But you
wouldn't put just one spout for the whole house. You would place the spouts
so as to keep the water from building up in the gutter. Also you don't want
the gutter to be hanging off the fascia board at the end.
Bill Michalek
http://www.sdraingutters.com
"Thomas G. Baker" <tgb...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:399E95AF...@mindspring.com...
> I'd like some more info on the rule: 40 feet run per downspout.
> 1. Is this based on capacity of gutter or leader, or is it based on
appearance
> with the change in elevation of the gutter?
> TB
>
> Richard J Kinch wrote:
>
Bill Michalek
corrects it:
REPOST
It's going to depend on where you live. In some places that get very heavy
rain you'll want more slope, and the opposite if you live in dryer area. The
slope is not as important as having enough spouts. Keep in mind that a
screened in porch is not going to have as large a roof area as your house,
and it won't have as much roof slope. If you can, put a spout at both ends,
middle goes high, and slope about 1/2 " on both ends should do most
situations.
Bill Michalek
http://www.sdraingutters.com
"Bill Michalek" <gmic...@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ySon5.20852$OG2....@typhoon.san.rr.com...
> It's going to depend on where you live. In some places that get very heavy
rain you'll want more slope, and the opposite if you live in dryer area. The
slope is not as important as having enough spouts. Keep in mind that a
screened in porch is not going to have as large a roof area as your house,
and it won't have as much roof slope. If you can, put a spout at both ends,
middle goes high, and slope about 1/2 " on both ends should do most
situations.
>
> Bill Michalek
> http://www.sdraingutters.com
"Bill Michalek" <gmic...@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ySon5.20852$OG2....@typhoon.san.rr.com...
TakeThisOut
<tgb...@mindspring.com> writes:
>I'd like some more info on the rule: 40 feet run per downspout.
>1. Is this based on capacity of gutter or leader, or is it based on
>appearance
>with the change in elevation of the gutter?
>TB
>
>Richard J Kinch w
It's based on gravity.
Any kind of downward slope will allow the gutter to completely drain AFTER the
rain stops.
The capacity of the gutter doesn't change with the degree of slope. If it rains
so hard that it overflows, a sharper pitch won't help.
.
.
.
.
8 tickets from Miami to Washington DC- $4000.00
Minivan rental- $600.00
Turned away at gate- PRICELESS!
Visa, it's everywhere you want to be, but can't get into.
Roger Shoaf
Bob <uctr...@ultranet.com> wrote in message
news:8nkupsc71taiopf38...@4ax.com...
> On 19 Aug 2000 15:16:35 GMT, budysba...@aol.com.net.gov
Why do we need "dry" gutters
> anyway ?
>
A dry gutter will not grow or attract crud that would accelerate the
deterioration of the gutter.
>
> (wondering how those level wooden gutters managed to work for all
> those hundreds of years before we realized that aluminum gutters
> could be bent from level :-)
>
With a wood gutter, they, more than modern types, would benifit from
draining completely. Soggy wood rots.
The slant might have been milled into the inside of the gutter to promote
good drainage.
--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
TakeThisOut
<uctr...@ultranet.com> writes:
>On 19 Aug 2000 15:16:35 GMT, budysba...@aol.com.net.gov
>(TakeThisOut) wrote:
>
>>It's based on gravity.
>>Any kind of downward slope will allow the gutter to completely drain AFTER
>the
>>rain stops.
>
>Since the downspout is at the *bottom* of the gutter, even a level
>gutter will drain out after the rain stops. A little water may
>be left - but who really cares ? Why do we need "dry" gutters
>anyway ? IMHO, A straight gutter looks a whole lot nicer. The
>previous discussion about _volume_ is far more important than slant.
>More slant might help the gutter drain faster, which might help with
>a situation where the gutter is near or at capacity during heavy rain.
>
>A more important point to consider is slope from *level*. Very few of
>us have level structures. If the facia/house is already on a "slope",
>then you may be able to put the gutter up "straight" and still have
>the slope recommended by previous posters. You need to check,
>because even the slope mentioned wouldn't help if the house
>slants in the opposite direction.
>
>bob
>
>(wondering how those level wooden gutters managed to work for all
>those hundreds of years before we realized that aluminum gutters
>could be bent from level :-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
By God you're right!
L. Patterson
"Roger Shoaf" <sh...@nospamsyix.com> wrote in message
news:96675309...@webhost1.syix.com...
> > anyway ?
> >
> deterioration of the gutter.
Not to mention mesquitoes (sp?).
Hamm4fun
years and new the "rules of thumb" by heart. There are 2 places in the roof
were about 12ft of gutter services about 300 sqft of roof. The gutter has one
downspout in this area. As a result of overflow during heavy rain I had to
replace the soffit facia in both areas.Added another down spout to each gutter
and have had no problems since.
bowl...@gmail.com
David Martel
It's easy to find such information on the web. A 1 in. drop in 10 ft.
will work but is quite large.
Dave M.
nestork
'David Martel[_2_ Wrote:
> ;3265568']PJ,
> It's easy to find such information on the web. A 1 in. drop in 10 ft.
>
> will work but is quite large.
>
> Dave M.
1/4 inch per foot. However, that might be more than is required for
water to drain. It may be what's required to keep solids in the
draining water moving with that water.
I think if you used a 1/8 inch per foot slope, that'd be plenty to allow
water to drain.
--
nestork
scott.g...@gmail.com
trader_4
I haven't measured mine, but I have some real long ones, probably 30 ft
and I bet it's 1" - 1.5" for that run. Any more, and they would be obviously
tilted from the ground.
mako...@yahoo.com
I'm on that hated google groups and I can even see the date.
this thread is from 14 years ago
Mark
gwcp...@yahoo.com
woodf...@gmail.com
DerbyDad03
cl...@snyder.on.ca
would do it.
DerbyDad03
Paint...@unlisted.moc
of the reason is because it's near impossible to get the pitch perfectly
along the entire length, so you can end up getting spots that puddle. I
put about 30' of gutter on my barn, and I have about 4" of drop. It
works well, as long as I clean out all the leaves and crap that seems to
constantly get in the gutters.
Also, this barn was built in the 1950s and over time the middle of the
roof has sagged a bit. I wanted to compensate for that too.
trader_4
slope would be obvious. Even if you get a puddle here and there, is
that so bad? It just dries out, doesn't it?
Micky
>
>>>>
>>>> Charles
>> ideal is about 1/16" per foot, so roughly 1.5 inches drop in 25 feet
>>would do it.
>
>That's probably the very minimum. Myself, I prefer to make it more.
can go white-water rafting.
Paint...@unlisted.moc
<tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>> That's probably the very minimum. Myself, I prefer to make it more. Part
>> of the reason is because it's near impossible to get the pitch perfectly
>> along the entire length, so you can end up getting spots that puddle. I
>> put about 30' of gutter on my barn, and I have about 4" of drop. It
>> works well, as long as I clean out all the leaves and crap that seems to
>> constantly get in the gutters.
>>
>> Also, this barn was built in the 1950s and over time the middle of the
>> roof has sagged a bit. I wanted to compensate for that too.
>
>You can get away with that much on a barn. Typical house, that much
>slope would be obvious. Even if you get a puddle here and there, is
>that so bad? It just dries out, doesn't it?
about appearance, it's about practicality. Puddles dry up in warm
weather, while they are rusting the gutter, and trapping debris. In cold
weather, they freeze and damage the gutter.
Tony Hwang
Micky
DerbyDad03
In the winter the puddles can freeze over causing blockage from upstream, causing
more puddling and more freezing which leads to ice dams and overflows. DAMHIKT
cl...@snyder.on.ca
straight run which eliminates the tendancy to puddle.
And using seamless aluminum gutters eliminates the rusting problem,
and makes it pretty simple to eliminate low spots too.
The guy that put mine up "levelled" it with a laser. Just aimed the
laser from the high point to the low point and made sure the trough
followed the beam
Paint...@unlisted.moc
>
>And using seamless aluminum gutters eliminates the rusting problem,
>and makes it pretty simple to eliminate low spots too.
>The guy that put mine up "levelled" it with a laser. Just aimed the
>laser from the high point to the low point and made sure the trough
>followed the beam
put up my own and it has seams. The laser level is a good idea though.
As far as aluminum, it will expand much faster than steel from ice. One
thing evryone seems to ignore is that it's not just a small puddle, it's
a spot that attracts debris, and that freezes and adds more ice and then
there are ice dams.... Heck, I've seen small trees growing in gutters if
people dont clean them.
DerbyDad03
When they installed my gutters, they sloped one section too much and it looked bad. I had
them come back and fix it. They "fixed" it by creating a low spot which puddled in the
summer and caused backups behind the low spot in the winter.
I know where the puddle was - found while cleaning the gutters the first autumn after the "fix".
The following winter, the gutters backed up and overflowed behind the low spot. In the spring
I removed the low spot and have not had a winter-time overflow since.
My point was that puddles do indeed dry up in the summer, but they can also cause problems
during freeze-thaw cycles in the winter.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
As for the cost of seamless, I had mine installed for what it would
have cost me to buy the steeland pay myself 50 cents an hour to
install it - it was a total no-brainer. I could have done it in Platmo
or some other DIY plastic for less - but that stuff is all junk up
here in ice and snow country.
I put gutter guard on all of mine so I don't have to climb up and
clean the gutters every year.
Tony Hwang
machine comes to your house. Rolls the stuff right there and install it
as it rolls off the machine. Does not even take whole lot of time.
Ralph Mowery
"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:l1gry.227907$qz7....@fx01.iad...
> Seamless gutter, you pick color, decide how wide and deep, truck mounted
> machine comes to your house. Rolls the stuff right there and install it as
> it rolls off the machine. Does not even take whole lot of time.
was this year. Also had a gutter cover so the leaves would not build up.
As some if it is over 20 feet off the ground I don't intend on cleaning that
out. Sort of like paying insurance. Less expensive for the gutter guard
type than it is to recover from a fall.
Paint...@unlisted.moc
>>As far as aluminum, it will expand much faster than steel from ice. One
>>thing evryone seems to ignore is that it's not just a small puddle, it's
>>a spot that attracts debris, and that freezes and adds more ice and then
>>there are ice dams.... Heck, I've seen small trees growing in gutters if
>>people dont clean them.
>
> That has nothing to do with the slope though.
>As for the cost of seamless, I had mine installed for what it would
>have cost me to buy the steeland pay myself 50 cents an hour to
>install it - it was a total no-brainer. I could have done it in Platmo
>or some other DIY plastic for less - but that stuff is all junk up
>here in ice and snow country.
>I put gutter guard on all of mine so I don't have to climb up and
>clean the gutters every year.
that has more pitch, than on with little pitch. Sure, no amount of pitch
will stop all debris, but more pitch helps.
I agree about those plastic gutters being junk. I put a short 6' section
over the door on my workshop and after one winter it was broken apart.
But it was a scrap piece that was given to me, so I'm glad I found out
how bad the stuff is without spending any money. I replaced it with some
used steel gutter I also got for free. That works fine.
Gutter guards would not work good on my barn. That barn roof collects
debris on the roof itself. The roof should have more pitch, but it came
with my farm, so I had no say in the matter. I have to sweep leaves and
fallen tree branches at least twice a year. But it's flat enough to
easily walk on it and clean the gutters from on the roof.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Tekkie®
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
> On Friday, August 18, 2000 at 7:38:07 PM UTC-5, Charles wrote:
>> I need to add about 25 feet of gutter to a screen porch I'm building. Does
>> anyone know the magic number for how much slope it should have towards the
>> downspout?
Tony Hwang
> On Sat, 30 Jan 2016 17:09:11 -0700, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Micky wrote:
>>> On Sat, 30 Jan 2016 13:19:43 -0600, Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charles
>>>>> ideal is about 1/16" per foot, so roughly 1.5 inches drop in 25 feet
>>>>> would do it.
>>>>
>>>> That's probably the very minimum. Myself, I prefer to make it more.
>>>
>>> If you make the slope about 1" per foot, when it rains, the beetles
>>> can go white-water rafting.
>>>
>> ???, an inch per foot? That's a lot!
>
> Beetles like excitement.
>