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Drilling through Railroad Ties

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Glymax

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Apr 21, 2002, 3:48:15 PM4/21/02
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I'm trying to find the best way to drill 1/2" holes in railroad ties
for re-bar supports. I tried with my old 3/8 electric drill, but I
ruined my bit - creosote, I guess. Should I try something more powerful,
like a 1/2 drill for example? Or is there a special bit for this kind of
thing? What about a hammer-drill? I'm getting desparate here.

mwlogs

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Apr 21, 2002, 4:21:26 PM4/21/02
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What kind of bit are you using? I wouldn't use a spade-bit. Probably best
to use a twist bit, and go at at relatively slow speed to keep the heat
down. Clean the bit with some karosene every so often to get rid of the
creosote buildup.

"Glymax" <gly...@aol.com> wrote in message
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John McGaw

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Apr 21, 2002, 5:09:48 PM4/21/02
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I've done quite a few of them using a very old-fashioned 1/2" drill and what
used to be called a "bell hanger's bit" which is around 24" long and 3/4"
diameter (can't measure it now since it seems to be lost after my most
recent move). Using this combination there was no problem going through
stacks of ties to pin them together.
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John McGaw
Knoxville, TN, USA
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"Glymax" <gly...@aol.com> wrote in message
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..mike..

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Apr 21, 2002, 7:11:43 PM4/21/02
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A buddy of mind just done that last spring with a bunch of railroad
ties..
He had to get a Auger bit This is what it look like in case you don't
know
http://users.ev1.net/~gmuster/ToolImages/AugerBits/RusselJenningBitEnds.JPG
He bought one at Home Depot for around $20.00...He use a 5/8 bit for the
re- bar
he was using I think it was 1/2 re-bar...
Yes you must have or rent a 1/2 heavy duty drill...Hammer drill's are
for Masonry.....Hope this helps...Mike

http://community.webtv.net/ikermen/Crafts

Harry K

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Apr 22, 2002, 10:54:24 AM4/22/02
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"mwlogs" <mwl...@exciteNS.com> wrote in message news:<abFw8.5123$lV6.2...@typhoon.columbus.rr.com>...

Yeah, a twist bit is probably best. Not cheap tho to find one long
enough. I did a batch using a 1/2" spade (i.e., speedbore) with an
extension. Had to grind down the connecting hub on the extension to
clear the hole. Took repeated pulling it out to clear the chips and
also a few resharpenings but it worked and gave very tight holes for
the re-bar.

PS. mwlogs: Please bottom post. You can see the problems you cause
by top posting in this simple 3 post set-up. We now have

1. Your reply.
2. The question.
3. My reply to your reply. Very out of sequence.

I didn't snip the question as it is needed for context.

Harry K

tim

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Apr 22, 2002, 1:49:46 PM4/22/02
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your right everyone should top post so i dont have to scroll through all the
old cr*p
plus u guys could learn to delete stuff, i wont here because i need to be
like you guys once in awhile

"Harry K" <turnk...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Toolup

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Apr 22, 2002, 11:58:46 PM4/22/02
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Glymax,

You can get an Auger bit. This one should work for you:

http://www.toolup.com/displaysearch1.asp?Description=Dewalt+Auger+Bit+5%2F8

if that link does not work, do a search for "Auger Bit 5/8"
at http://www.toolup.com

the 5/8 x 17 is about $18 or so.
Looks like they are in stock per the website.


"Glymax" <gly...@aol.com> wrote in message
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Kevin S.

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May 4, 2002, 1:06:00 AM5/4/02
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I drilled some last sumer with and old sears 3/8" and don't recall any
problems. I cannot recall what bit I used but it was nothing exotic.

No offense but do you have the drill switched to forward? I don't use
my corded very often and its selctor moves opposite of my cordless. Try
running a 2" hole saw through 3/4" MDF in reverse if you want some
stinky smoke.

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